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So, with the release of the Mephiston resculpt I have been motivated to finally start a topic on my BA.

 

I started my BA way back towards the tail end of 2nd edition. When 30k kicked off I dove into that head first but since late 7th I havent really touched them gaming wise. I have done some painting but the gaming rules have always let me down the past few editions outside 30k. But the BA will always be my favorite.

 

First things first. I need to decide on a base for Mephiston. Big skull base is appropriately epic but not practical for gaming so I think I am going to magnetize his feet so I can have the epic display and swap to a gaming base as needed.

 

49188265782_40b129fbff_c.jpg20191208_103033 by nifty, on Flickr

 

Past work pictures and on the painting bench pictures coming up.

Edited by Jolemai
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Ok, first up is a classic then and now picture. The marine that's dry brushed silver is the first mini I ever painted. The assault marines I painted a few years ago but my scheme is basically unchanged.

 

31602074544_9a24a87762_c.jpg20170121_152650 by nifty, on Flickr

 

Next up is a little step by step shot of some primaris marines. I use an oil pin wash and wipe method to do the shading. I can post a full step by step if anyone is interested.

 40408194213_34d3f539ae_c.jpgP_20190313_205907_vHDR_Auto by nifty, on Flickr

Edited by NiftyVT

I hope to get Mephiston assembled this weekend, magnet base and everything. I have a fairly strict dont buy more before you finish other things rule and my resolution for this year has been to finish up as much back log as I can. Mephiston was my only purchase this year and I have finished around 100 minis off my backlog this year.

 

So, with that in mind I had to build something from my back log before I start on Mephiston. So I put together good old Eisenhorn. Awesome model, horrible cast. I have so much putty work to do on him! Plan is to do the putty work on him and Mephiston at the same time.

 

Game wise I think Eisenhorn will end up hanging with my Dark Mech (see signature). >=)

Ok, lets get some pictures up. Here are my recently finished up Primaris. I quickly hammered through these guys to a table top standard.

 

32447522297_2b7862f62e_c.jpgP_20190315_180041_vHDR_Auto by nifty, on Flickr

 

46474272915_a98f07b8ce_c.jpgP_20190315_180306_vHDR_Auto by nifty, on Flickr

 

46665988304_4ef6438cea_c.jpgP_20190315_180332_vHDR_Auto by nifty, on Flickr

 

40423761463_b1cff133ed_c.jpgP_20190315_180227_vHDR_Auto by nifty, on Flickr

 

46665985104_d5ef8d416a_c.jpgP_20190315_180423_vHDR_Auto by nifty, on Flickr

 

33513180228_d77afaa87b_c.jpgP_20190315_180440_vHDR_Auto by nifty, on Flickr

Next is a little bit of my 30k/40k old marines.

 

First up is one of my favorite models in my 30k army. A metal BA apothecary body kit bashed with some newer parts. I painted him a bit different than the usual apothecary white. I kept him Legion colors and just added white trim to his shoulder pads. Turned out sweet! And you can see my short stuff librarian behind him. He is a old metal librarian and has a magnetized back pack so I can throw a Mk4 jump pack on him. He is so tiny even compared to the regular plastic old marines and barely comes up a primaris chest lol.

35331442775_f1571a3e3e_c.jpg20170615_181536 by nifty, on Flickr

 

Cant be BA without some jump pack goodness. MMMMmmmMMMM, those Mk3 lightning claws and 2 handed heavy chain swords and Mk3 chain swords. . . so . . . cool! :cool.: I like the Mk4 legs/pack and Mk3 arms and weapons. Gives them a little more brutal feel. Like they picked out the perfect gauntlets and heavy shoulder pads to give them that little extra protective edge in close combat.

33076604992_f9d751c642_c.jpg20170303_173247 by nifty, on Flickr

28617055315_b9dbdfca2e_c.jpg20160728_182053 by nifty, on Flickr

27988096881_a7e86f8446_c.jpg20160703_155548 by nifty, on Flickr

 

And cant be 30k without some CHOOOM and a little high caliber fire power. :whistling:I have always wanted to expand them to squads of 10 (and I have marine bodies ready and waiting) but with the demise of 30k in my area due to the release of 8th edition I have just never gotten around to it. They are some of my favorite models in the army too.

33191462966_e03271643a_c.jpg20170303_173314 by nifty, on Flickr

30379486486_d09b4ce430_c.jpgDSC02964 by nifty, on Flickr

 

And here are a few Sargent options. I have a good variety built, this is just a little selection.

30329470441_c647eea9d6_c.jpgDSC02959 by nifty, on Flickr

 

All the melta all the time. I have 10 of each special weapon, plasma, melta and flamer.

30329476301_27556b6a22_c.jpgDSC02952 by nifty, on Flickr

 

And I have decided to switch up Mephistons paint a little from the classic box art. The release of the BA Forgeworld Dawnbreakers has me really liking the black shoulder pads, black back pack and gold trim. So thats what I plan to do for Mephiston.

Edited by NiftyVT

35331442775_f1571a3e3e_c.jpg2017

 

Awesome stuff! I see your shades of red vary slightly, might be just due to lighting. I'm curious about the guy to the immediate right of the Priest - can you share the paint scheme please? It looks like a meph red with agrax wash, with a subtle gradient. I use the same scheme, but yours looks more...vibrant? Im curious to see if I can alter my technique to get similar results. 

Awesome stuff! I see your shades of red vary slightly, might be just due to lighting. I'm curious about the guy to the immediate right of the Priest - can you share the paint scheme please? It looks like a meph red with agrax wash, with a subtle gradient. I use the same scheme, but yours looks more...vibrant? Im curious to see if I can alter my technique to get similar results.

The color variation is mostly caused by lighting and camera (actual camera vs my phone). I dont think I used any GW paints on them. I get the red and depth by airbrushing several colors from brown up to orange and then using a transparent red over everything to bring the value back down to the deep red. Then I gloss varnish them and use an oil pin wash in the recesses. I wipe away the pin wash as needed and then seal it with a gloss once its dry. I will have to reference my recipe sheet for exact colors but I think everything used on the armor is Vallejo.

Great collection!

I like the use of 30k decals on Primaris and the light sabre-style power sword on the first assault squad :) That bunch looks like they really mean business!

Thanks!

The swords are very easy. I paint them with the most shiney silver I have and then I just edge it with Minitaire Ghost tint Plasma Fluid or Blue and then do my best to miss the sword when I do the final matte varnish so it stays nice and glossy.

 

Basically I got tired of painting lightning and of how long it took. I want my marines to be a little more grounded in reality. So no glow effects or anything like that.

Edited by NiftyVT

Found the paint process write up I did on another forum.

 

For the armor Airbrush the following:

 

Black primer of choice.

 

Vallejo model air ‘burnt umber’ – keep black in the deepest recesses

 

Vallejo model air ‘fire red’ (2-3 light coats) – at an angle keeping the burnt umber in the recesses

 

Vallejo game air ‘bloody red’ (2-3 lights coats) – at a higher angle than the fire red

 

Vallejo model air ‘light red’ – almost directly from the top

 

Vallejo model color ‘transparent red’ over all the armor.

 

Pin to fully painted base - I can post a step by step of the base process too if anyone wants it.

 

 

Out comes the brush:

 

Paint all black, silver, gold (used the Vallejo Metal Color line for the silver and gold and its amazing)

 

Highlight all black, silver, gold to taste

 

Wash the silver and gold to taste - I did a black wash on the silver (Army Painter Dark Tone) and a brown wash on the gold (Army Painter Strong Tone)

 

The chest cables I edged all the ridges via dry brushing with silver and then went over it with a heavy coat of the Army Painter Dark Tone that served to clean up any silver that got in the valleys of the cables.

 

Paint eyes – I used Games Workshop ‘kabalite green’ with ‘sybarite green’ highlights

 

Do a little edge highlighting on the black shoulder pad parts and on some of the red. I focused on the helmet, torso and the upper edges of the knee pads and used Vallejo model color ‘orange red’ on the armor.

 

 

Airbrush gloss coat over everything (Pledge with Future Shine or Vallejo Gloss)

 

Apply decals (micro set + micro sol) – It took, I think, 6+ coats of micro sol for the shoulder pad decal in some cases so be patient.

 

Hand brush 2 thin gloss coats over the decal once the decal is completely dry.

 

Pin wash the armor with AK Interactive ‘Streaking Grime’ or Dark Brown in panel lines, armor studs, knee pad joints etc (basically places where the airbrushing didn’t shade or where you want a little more depth/dirt) These are enamels so use an appropriate brush and have mineral spirit ready for clean up.

 

Let the pin wash dry for 10-15 minutes and wipe off excess to taste - I used cotton swabs and an old trusty T-Shirt that I have used to wipe wash off the oil washes on my Knights and Dark Mech.

 

Airbrush Vallejo ‘matte varnish’ over everything once the wash was allowed to set overnight.

 

 

The decals came out amazing. You cannot see any type of decal line at all. I think the extra brushed on gloss varnish coats served to even out the surface so when I hit it with matte the decal edge disappeared. You could see the decal line right up until I did the Matte coat. I went with super shiny silver power weapons because I was feeling lazy and didn’t feel like painting any fancy blues with fades or whatever on the power weapons. . . turned out that the bright silver swords look really cool against the red and black of the marine.

  • 4 weeks later...

Strangely I have found myself painting on my 10 Catiphractii terminators the past couple days. And have a great time doing it. I am almost done blocking in all the colors.

 

I finished up some Dark Mech last week and was throwing my left over paint on a couple of the terminators and that turned into me digging out all 10 and actually putting some brush time into them. They have been airbrushed and attached to completed bases for a couple of YEARS!

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