LameBeard and son start Adeptus Titanicus

[LameBeard]

The story so far ...

For those of you interested, you can see the earliest mis-steps in the chain here: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/368734-how-to-start-this-game/?p=5691459

Here's the TLDR:

My son really wanted to start Titanicus and get a Warlord. I want him to be careful with money, but also to support him. So I bought the Precept Maniple and rulebook, he paid me for the Warlord, and we sold the Warbringer, leaving me a Reaver and two Warhounds.

Despite reading the warnings on this board, we still made many mistakes on the legs. After repairs involving a hair-drier and prayers to any gods which would listen, my son is making what I feel is incredible progress on his Legio Tempestus Warlord.

Meanwhile I am crippled by indecision on the Legio to choose, and scared even to take the clippers to my sprues - I hear the Reaver's legs are even more prone to error than the Warlord's. Maybe I start with a Warhound ...

[Marshal Loss]

You know you've raised your son right when he picks Legio Tempestus. Look forward to seeing who you pick.

 

Definitely don't start with a Reaver. Warlords & Warhounds are both great fun to build though, either would be an excellent starting point.

[LameBeard]

Thank you. It's the Traitor branch of the Tempestus family, in case that makes a difference to your opinion!

[Sword Brother Adelard]

Warhounds are fun to build. There's not a lot you can do to mess them up either. Magnetising is also pretty easy. I prefer the method where you glue the arm into the shoulder, level off the bottom ball joint, drill a magnet up into the ball joint, then simply drop a corresponding magnet into each weapon. The magnet in the weapon simply takes up the room of the plastic you lop off the arm.

 

Reaver legs are tricky, but, with careful pose planning, you'll be fine.

 

What makes them tricky is that they look like there's a lot of posability options, the ankle is a ball joint, and the toe pistons have space to slide.

 

However, when you come to adding in the shin panels later. (Because you probably kept them separate for painting.) You find that your pose didn't leave enough space for the plates on the toe pistons to fit in the corresponding gaps in the shin panels.

 

Here are my tips: first, the feet are handed. Getting them round the wrong way is very noticeablez but easily avoided when you know what to look out for.

 

Second, you need to note that the shin panels are all different. They look like there are two pairs of left and right, but there's more to it. The inside leg panels have a higher clearance for the toe piston panel than the outside leg panels do. This is to give you a little more room to play with when posing. But not a lot. You can even use this to your advantage, perhaps using both the inside leg panels on one foot if you need more space on that one than the other. The extra clearance can be the difference between the shin plates meeting in the middle neatly, or not.

 

I glue the toe piston panels onto the pistons before painting now. It makes posing easier when dry fitting, as its one less thing to fall off when the blu-tac fails. (Note the rear toe piston panel had slightly different trim patterning, once you spot it, you won't mix them up.)

 

Dry fit everything as much as you can before committing to a pose. If you don't have much dynamism, you'll be fine.

 

Finally, if you do want that little bit of extra movement, what I did was I took a jeweller's saw to the socket joints on the toes which house the toe pistons. I carefully removed them, and then re-attached them in the same slots, but lower down on the foot panel. So that instead of the toes being flush with the foot pad on the bottom, the sockets were instead flush with the top of the foot. It may not sound like a lot of extra clearance but it made a big difference.

[Mandragola]

Welcome to the board, and good luck!

 

Reavers aren't really all that bad, once you know what to look out for. The problem you have is that there are all these bits that look like they can go on either side, facing either direction, but actually they can't. The instructions do show you how they ought to be, but not especially clearly and they don't point out how easy it is to get wrong.

 

And yeah, that ball joint on the foot is a trap. Stick the foot straight on the end of the leg or the armour won't fit. But you can do anything you like with the knee and hip joints.

 

Like Adelard, I tend to muck about with the toes on my titans. There's nothing weird about that, I promise. I think  you can get more natural looking poses by bending toes down if the foot is off the ground, or sometimes up if the foot is angled against the base.

[LameBeard]

Thanks for the tips. I started on a warhound but even that took ages before I figured out a6 and a7 are the alternative legs, but it’s a4 and a5 pictured. And then I mislaid the instructions... I also realised I have the chainfist reaver but I prefer the power fist look. At least I got the missile launcher on the carapace. I am going to have to buy the starter kit just for the reaver weapons I want!

 

I’m also working on a base for the Warhound. I guess what I’d like is something which will suggest the scale without being over-the-top at this stage. Like not a full-on ruined building or a horde of epic infantry in danger of being trod on, but something more subtle. I guess my bits box will not be that useful!

Edited April 27, 2021 by LameBeard

[Marshal Loss]

Thank you. It's the Traitor branch of the Tempestus family, in case that makes a difference to your opinion!

That is definitely a positive! :P

[Hungry Nostraman Lizard]

Following this with interest! 

[LameBeard]

Here is the base I made last night. I haven't found anything 'to scale' yet, although it seems you will have spare heads (without lower jaws) for the Warhounds, so they could be used as remants of a previous battle, perhaps on a future base. And yes, that is my blood in the photo - I cut my finger, not even sure how, I think making a 40k base. By the time of this photo there was a mix of blood, sand, glue and water all over the desk. It was quite a tidy-up job.

My idea is to paint it like Mars desert, to match my Alpha Legion. In my quick skim of the rulebook, I found that Fureans fought alongside Alpha Legion, so maybe they are a good choice. Defensor is the other main one in the mix. I decided to paint up a couple of the carapaces as tests, and choose the one I find I like the best, or will be easiest to replicate. I might not have the right green for Defensor, on the other hand, yellow is always tricky ...

Meanwhile, my son powers ahead! He's painting plates and has more progress on the body of the titan, picking out pistons and shield nodes and little details like that in Balthazar Gold. Now we know which 'eye' plate is which because painting started on the sprue. But do you think it matters, because he really wants the white one to be blue and the blue one to be white?

Edited April 30, 2021 by LameBeard

[LameBeard]

Warhounds are fun to build. There's not a lot you can do to mess them up either. Magnetising is also pretty easy. I prefer the method where you glue the arm into the shoulder, level off the bottom ball joint, drill a magnet up into the ball joint, then simply drop a corresponding magnet into each weapon. The magnet in the weapon simply takes up the room of the plastic you lop off the arm.

Excellent tips. That way of magnetising looks like I will solve the problem of not having enough of the little double-ball arm bits to magentise there. But what do I do about the pipes that attach to the weapon - fit teeny-tiny magnets? Or are there enough pipes to be one per weapon?

Here's what it looks like so far (torso not glued to legs yet). I still agonised over the exact best angle of pelvis relative to legs!

[Sword Brother Adelard]

Honestly, noone uses the pipes on Warhounds. We all just head fluff that the power runs through the actual arms.

 

I do, on occasion use them on a Reaver, this is because reavers are easier to magnetise at the shoulder, as each weapon comes with its own arm. (Also, the hole for the shoulder panel on a Reaver fits a 3mm magnet perfectly. However, while it's easy enough to put magnets in the shoulder, perfectly lining up the corresponding magnet in the ball joint of the weapon is tricky. The result is that you often have a weapon which sits a little wonky in the shoulder. But, if you use the cables, they can be glued onto the weapon, not glued onto the torso, but will just slot into the gap behind the rear panels. In this manner you can mag the weapon, and use the cable to hold it in the right orientation.

 

I can provide some example pics if you like?

[Gattopardo]

There aren't enough pipes for one per weapon. Most people leave them off if they magnetise the guns I think. That's what I did. Apparently it is lore-appropriate - sometimes the cabling is run inside the weapon (which from a combat effectiveness point of view does seem rather better, I have to say).

 

I've considered using teeny magnets to deal with this problem on the Warbringer, where to my mind the cabling is a more important part of the aesthetic, though I've not actually done so yet.

[LameBeard]

Honestly, noone uses the pipes on Warhounds. We all just head fluff that the power runs through the actual arms.

 

I do, on occasion use them on a Reaver, this is because reavers are easier to magnetise at the shoulder, as each weapon comes with its own arm. (Also, the hole for the shoulder panel on a Reaver fits a 3mm magnet perfectly. However, while it's easy enough to put magnets in the shoulder, perfectly lining up the corresponding magnet in the ball joint of the weapon is tricky. The result is that you often have a weapon which sits a little wonky in the shoulder. But, if you use the cables, they can be glued onto the weapon, not glued onto the torso, but will just slot into the gap behind the rear panels. In this manner you can mag the weapon, and use the cable to hold it in the right orientation.

 

I can provide some example pics if you like?

You are welcome to post your own pics in this thread, that would be great. But no hurry on the reavers, because completing one warhound will be my target for May, and if I amaze myself and finish, my next target will be the second warhound.  I will be pledging in Grotshama's '12 months of hobby challenge' thread, to make sure I do it!

 

There aren't enough pipes for one per weapon. Most people leave them off if they magnetise the guns I think. That's what I did. Apparently it is lore-appropriate - sometimes the cabling is run inside the weapon (which from a combat effectiveness point of view does seem rather better, I have to say).

 

I've considered using teeny magnets to deal with this problem on the Warbringer, where to my mind the cabling is a more important part of the aesthetic, though I've not actually done so yet.

Hmmm. I just like the look of the pipes, even though I think you are right on combat effectiveness!  What I might do is stick pipes to my favourite two weapons, and hopefully they can tuck up under the shoulder without magnets, and then when I swap weapons, have no pipes.  I think the flamey weapon will look good with pipes, although that might be my least favourite weapon - it just doesn't seem to fit my idea of what a Titan would do as much, even if it does look cool apart from that.

 

[Mandragola]

I’ve used the cables on all my Astorum guns. This has meant my Reavers’ guns are right and left handed, but I can live with that. I find them a massive hassle though to be honest. They’re pretty fragile and don’t survive too well when being put on and removed.

 

The warhound ones are fine though. A pair of magnets on the end of the cable and in the hound’s armpit does the job nicely.

[General Zodd]

Personally, I’ve just magnetised the Warhound weapons at the shoulder, and not bothered magnetising the cables. They disappear up inside the cowling, and you genuinely can’t see they’re not attached without peering up underneath the skirting, which is almost certainly breaching Collegia Titanica etiquette.

 

From memory, you get enough to cable all the plasma blast guns (as they have a different shaped pipe), then you can cable four of the remaining six weapons. Personally, I think cables look best on the inferno and lasblasters, so if you wanted to have some without, I think the Vulcan Megabolters are the ones that look the best without, but that’s personal preference, obviously! Also, the Forge World weapons so far don’t have cables, either, so it shouldn’t look odd anyway.

[Hungry Nostraman Lizard]

Here is the base I made last night. I haven't found anything 'to scale' yet, although it seems you will have spare heads (without lower jaws) for the Warhounds, so they could be used as remants of a previous battle, perhaps on a future base.  And yes, that is my blood in the photo - I cut my finger, not even sure how, I think making a 40k base.  By the time of this photo there was  a mix of blood, sand, glue and water all over the desk. It was quite a tidy-up job. 

 

 

 

If you'd like, I can send you a bunch of 8mm epic scaled stuff to use as basing. 

 

I've got pretty much most things in the Legions' arsenals as STLS, and I find it adds quite a bit of flavor. Shoot me a DM/PM if you're interested, I have a ton of spares right now. 

[LameBeard]

I love the knight @Hungry Nostraman Lizard, and everything that's going on on his base. I've decided to keep mine simple for now, might get more ambitious when it comes to scenery.

 

Today I read a bit more of the rulebook, I like the idea of having before/after scenery pieces that can be destroyed - maybe that's even a way to use your lovely 8mm marines. All shooting in the 'before', and all casualties in the 'after'.  But this may be years away, one warhound is the challenge for now!

 

I've got some base coats on a few pieces. Leaning more towards Defensor now - I just am not sure about what 'trim' colour works next to yellow for Fureans.  And painting trim is a bit tricky anyway. With defensor for some of my panels I am trying the opposite approach: basecoat in Balthazar Gold, then fill in the panels black, leaving the trim metallic.  Sorry no more pics yet.

Edited May 2, 2021 by LameBeard

[SkimaskMohawk]

I'm very biased, but imo the best trim for fureans is a dark iron. It works great with yellow and black and doesn't have the problems that bronze/gold do in competing with yellow.

[Marshal Loss]

I'm very biased, but imo the best trim for fureans is a dark iron. It works great with yellow and black and doesn't have the problems that bronze/gold do in competing with yellow.

I did my Fureans that way as well. It's a great homage to the original scheme

Edited May 3, 2021 by Marshal Loss

[LameBeard]

Original scheme definitely would tip a tie-breaker! Were Defensor in the original Adeptus Titanicus? I'm making more progress on those plates.

Today we have managed to magnetize one arm on the Warlord and one arm on the Warhound. The Warhound was a lot more fuss using a smaller 3mm magnet. It's still very powerful though, but I can't get a 3mm drill bit in my pin vice, so I'm having to use a bit of putty just to be sure of a good gluing surface.

This picture from earlier today before that:

If you are eagle-eyed you may spot the latest mistake. The rest of you can find out, in the next exciting episode of LameBeard and son start Adeptus Titanicus!

[Sherrypie]

Nova Guard is indeed an old legio from ancient times, at least since White Dwarf 108:

 

[LameBeard]

Thanks, that’s great. That little bit of yellow-orange is a good spot colour I will incorporate. I happen to have here issue 110 which I got cheap from eBay - 2 big Titanicus articles including colour pictures, but no Defensor.

 

Now what’s this business with the stag? Or have I confused them with a different legio?

[1ncarnadine]

That banner is pretty much it! They were included in a set of banners in White Dwarf 108 but not elaborated on much, and never got an official color scheme until the recent Titandeath supplement. Don't ask me why their symbol was a big, shining D when they weren't even called Defensor yet (just the Nova Guard).

The stag is a symbol of Defensor's Forge World, Satyraes XII. There's a Knight House with a similar symbol, House Moritaine and their elk, but they're subtly different, and not strongly associated with Defensor anyway.

Here's the bit from Defensor's color plates re: their iconography:

 

Despite the rise of the Lectitio Divinitatus among the ranks of the Legio Defensor, the prominent displaying of its religious iconography was still strictly prohibited by the Collegia Titanica. While the twin sunrise motif of the Legio later became the Emperor's divine crown of light, for the battles of the Beta-Garmon campaign, the Legio bore the symbols of their home world Satyraes XII. Central to the heraldry of Satyraes was the stag, its skull lit by the Forge World's two suns. Legends among the Legio tell of a time when the people of Satyraes worshipped their great forest stags as gods, now believed by the Satyrii to be a forerunner manifestation of the Emperor.

[Marshal Loss]

 

Don't ask me why their symbol was a big, shining D when they weren't even called Defensor yet (just the Nova Guard).

 

D is often used to represent "Deus" (God) in Latin in abbreviated texts

[Mendi Warrior]

Nice! It is looking good.

Isn't it missing a bit of torso armour on its left flank?