Jolemai's Blog of WIPs, Battle Reports and Musings

[Jønke]

As little as possible. So you can loose to the eldars fast and get on with your life.

[Jolemai]

As little as possible.

 

I actually agree with this part as it means less game time and thus less exposure to my four year old, but it also reduces the chance of my fighting a Wraithlist (that Formation is quite pricey). Trouble is, my opponent is staying over the weekend so it would be good to make the trip worthwhile (I doubt playing two small games would be feasible you see).

 

Oh, and I play to win even with my unoptimised themed lists ;)

[Damon Nightman]

Do a 1500 pt game and see how that goes. Maybe do 1750 or 1250 after if enough time and motivation. If he's coming the weekend to play and is a friend, I would say go bigger to make it worth his while even though it's elder....

[Jolemai]

Do a 1500 pt game and see how that goes. Maybe do 1750 or 1250 after if enough time and motivation. If he's coming the weekend to play and is a friend, I would say go bigger to make it worth his while even though it's elder....

 

The current 1750 is unbloodied but I'm not entirely sold on it. The 1500 list squeezed out a win in it's last outing against Eldar but that wasn't the current Codex. The 1250 list is a glass hammer but it was winning on points before being tabled...

 

Of my other standing lists, the 1850 won it's last Eldar match but the 2k list got obliterated...

 

Seriously, I'm not bothered about playing Eldar, it's more that my kids will be present

[Damon Nightman]

Are you're kids too young to be watching 40k games or do you not want them to see you possibly get obliterated by eldar? Lol

 

I'd say either try out the 1750 list and get it bloodied up a bit or use the 1500 list since it technically has beaten eldar before. 1250pt if you end up being short on time or what not.

[CaptainHelion]

I'd say the 1500 list, as it gives a balance between making it worthwhile, and not running too much stuff.

And I'd say the bit about the chilluns is that smalls take a fair bit of attention wherever they are. Not something you can just ignore or have in the background?

[Jolemai]

Not really. At four months old sprog #2 will be with his mum but four year old sprog #1 is interested in my models and will no doubt want to participate (touching things, dice rolling, etc). I don't mind and I believe my mate is OK with it within reason, but it will lengthen the game and the longer we play the greater chance of calamity... Just h\ave to find the balance :)

[Charlo]

You should play 2750 and ask someone for a Warlord loan for the weekend ;)

[Jolemai]

You should play 2750 and ask someone for a Warlord loan for the weekend

 

Haha   Sadly it's a "home" game so said Warlord would need to travel over 80 miles... Maybe for the next "away" match ;)

[Charlo]

I am really considering an Ordinatus for next year.

 

Mainly because it can't be blown up turn one...

[Xenith]

Go 1000, try to fit 3 games in with different scenarios. It also allows breaks for the kid.

[Charlo]

Speaking of Apoc.... Where is the rest of the write up? ;)

[Jolemai]

Speaking of Apoc.... Where is the rest of the write up?

 

Same place as where your ETL vow is ;)

[Charlo]

 

Speaking of Apoc.... Where is the rest of the write up?

 

Same place as where your ETL vow is

 

http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/04/0438bce0e45bfc23421041cce5752c6dc0aa58a5239d22af7f15add0f509bb35.jpg

[CaptainHelion]

Sounds like all those handflamers backfired on you, Charlo

[Charlo]

Sounds like all those handflamers backfired on you, Charlo

 

http://new1.fjcdn.com/comments/Here+you+go+_df56c6c682513c4dc47668eaa9524881.jpg

 

I'm sorry for derailing your thread, Reclusiarch.

Edited May 18, 2016 by Charlo

[Jolemai]

Haha, it's hardly derailed. To be fair I do need to find the time to finish typing it up before I forget it!

[Jolemai]

Finished painted the black basecoat (step two) on my Terminators last night, which these days is step two when I'm painting red.

 

Schedule:

1. Undercoat white
2. Paint black bits
3. Drybrush silver bits
4. Paint red bits
5. Shade red bits and apply more coats of red if needed
6. Paint brown bits
7. Detail
8. Paint base (drybrush dark grey - drybrush light grey - drybrush bone)
9. Highlights

I'll add a WIP image at step four and for the ETL I'll (likely) be stopping at step eight. All being well I'll be painted the red by next week...

[Damon Nightman]

Why do you drybrush the silver bits? Genuinely curious, is it already silver and you dry brush on a lighter silver to like "highlight" it or is it just like black or your white base coat and instead of just painting on the silver you just add all the silver via dry brushing?

 

Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask, im just trying to understand all the painting lingo and methods people use.

 

And also to clarify, when you say you finished black base coat does that mean you already primed the model, then painted it black, and then will do a white under coat on the whole model before painting any specific details?

 

All I've done is spray model mephiston red or white primer, then paint on evil sun scarlet for armor, then do other details, and finally add washes. Am I leaving out some steps?

[Jolemai]

Why do you drybrush the silver bits? Genuinely curious, is it already silver and you dry brush on a lighter silver to like "highlight" it or is it just like black or your white base coat and instead of just painting on the silver you just add all the silver via dry brushing?

 

It saves time and I like the grainy metal effect it produces. To me, metal isn't flat and I like it to have a lustre about it. I also find that drybrushing gives a darker coverage; if I paint it on I feel the need to darken it with ink (especially on larger surfaces) and this adds time - I'm a notoriously slow painter as it is with limited time so...

 

Back in the day I used Mithril Silver (Runefang Steel) on everything but now I've inherited a pot of Chainmail (Ironbreaker) I use that and highlight with Mithril Silver - unless I'm painting gold which is black -> drybrush Mithril Silver -> drybrush Shining Gold (Gehenna's Gold) -> shade with Flesh Wash (???) and drybrush more gold if needed -> highlight Mithril Silver

 

Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask, im just trying to understand all the painting lingo and methods people use.

 

Where else are you going to ask? :)

 

And also to clarify, when you say you finished black base coat does that mean you already primed the model, then painted it black, and then will do a white under coat on the whole model before painting any specific details?

 

I undercoat with a white spray. I then paint on black to the things which are going to be black or require a black basecoat such as metals. My red basecoat goes on the white bits.

 

My lingo: Undercoat -> Basecoat -> shade (and subsequent coats of the basecoat if necessary) -> Topcoat* -> highlight

 

* I'm an older painter, so for things like white I work up through the colours. Mainly because I'm a gluten for punishment.

 

All I've done is spray model mephiston red or white primer, then paint on evil sun scarlet for armor, then do other details, and finally add washes. Am I leaving out some steps?

 

Personally, I have found that painting the red bits (armour) and then going back to paint the black - which is usually in the recess or on the gun - to be a messy process and this means I have to go back and tidy it up. I use Blood Red (Evil Suns Scarlett) as my main colour, which means I either have to apply white or Mephiston Red first to get a smooth coverage. By doing the messy bits before doing the armour, I'm being more efficient with my painting - that's the theory anyway! Of course I'll have to go back to the drawing board if and when I get an airbrush...

 

I'll never recommend my paint schemes because they take ages, but they work for me :)

[Damon Nightman]

Incredibly helpful, thank you man!

 

Yeah this seems to be the obvious place to ask haha. I can't think of the actual word, probably because it's still pretty early here, but I always try to be cautious and ask if something is okay instead of assuming even if it is quite obvious lol.

 

One last question, is shading and washing interchangeable or are they actually different?

[Jolemai]

Incredibly helpful, thank you man!

 

Yeah this seems to be the obvious place to ask haha. I can't think of the actual word, probably because it's still pretty early here, but I always try to be cautious and ask if something is okay instead of assuming even if it is quite obvious lol.

 

One last question, is shading and washing interchangeable or are they actually different?

 

Technically they are different but (imo) they are frequently used to describe a similar sort of process. I use the word shade (even when using a pot of XXX wash) as I'm applying it to the recess. If I was coating the model, they I would be washing it (be it with said pot of XXX wash or very watered down paint).

 

Oh, and keep in mind I'm no painting guru! I'm just some British chap on the internet ;)

[Charlo]

If you are using GW paints, I cannot recommend the little videos they have on the YouTube channel enough!

 

The simple paint system and them is all that has taught me and I feel like I do a decent job now!

 

They're rather basic but provide are really nice and methodical approach.

[Damon Nightman]

Well with where I'm at, I just need to get down some basics and you def helped me with that! No need to consult those very wise (and probably very busy painting, not that you aren't busy painting either!) gurus lol.

 

And you are no mere British chap, you are THE Reclusiarch! Lol

 

Thanks again! And I'll get my first vow in today most likely when I get home!

[CaptainHelion]

The Flesh Shade modern equivalent is Reikland Fleshshade, by the by.