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Damonocles Rhino Full build


Beaver2206

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Hi!

 

This is my first post on Bolter and my first GW kit. My usual sphere of interest lies with historical models, though after admiring some of a work friend's Dark Angels, I fancied going it a go.

 

I am building this simply for the pleasure of building it. Sadly, it will never be set loose upon the battlefield, though I should image that would be an even worse fate with me in control...

 

I have chosen to build a Rhino (in keeping with what I'd normally build), this is a Damonocles conversion from Forge World. I am used to dealing with resin, so skipped just build the OOB kit and continued the up-detailing with a set of Dark Angel hatches, also from FW.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a1.jpg

 

The first step was to remove cast seams along the top of the trackguard sides. I also took the opportunity to drill out the exhaust pipes. This will be worth it when painting later.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a.jpg

 

More to come in just a sec...

 

Stuart

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The interior of the Daonocles will be fairly detailed with the inclusion of the control desk and operators (pictires to come of these shortly). I have also added touches of detail such as bolt heads and access panels to 'liven-up' any dead areas of the cabin. I also couldn't resist an access control panel on the side of the door.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a3.jpg

 

Again, this will pay off once painting begins as this kind of detail can be highlighted to add interest to surfaces.

 

And this is where you will have to forgive me going forward, as I have little prior understanding of the GW technical details. I am reading up where posible, though you will have to advise on the accuracy of my 'additions' here and there. Speaking from the historical model side of the fence, this gets picked up very often. if fact, they are termed 'Rivet Counters' or more recently 'Track Measurers' after a recent Dragon Model release... This is why I feel that I am going to enjoy this, as I can let my imagination tun a little and not worry so much about realism.

 

Anyway, back on track.

 

Here's a quick peek at the FW Blood Angel hatches. Crisp and well defined detail. And that is half of the battle when painting.

 

I hope you'll tag along with me on this one. I feel it's going to be quite a learning curve. I've read posts on here and you all seem like a 'good bunch' so I look forward to getting stuck in.

 

Thanks

 

Stuart

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I have little prior understanding of the GW technical details. I am reading up where posible, though you will have to advise on the accuracy of my 'additions' here and there. Speaking from the historical model side of the fence, this gets picked up very often. if fact, they are termed 'Rivet Counters' or more recently 'Track Measurers' after a recent Dragon Model release... This is why I feel that I am going to enjoy this, as I can let my imagination tun a little and not worry so much about realism.

 

Awesome idea with the control panel for the door! I look forward to seeing your ideas implemented, as i personally feel the inside of tanks has never been GW's best achievement- they are usually bland. From the technical standpoint- the general idea is that all imperial machines are constructed based on Standard Template Construct designs and not adhering to those is techno-heresy, however when browsing any forum on the hobby You'll find that many players convert tanks into sometimes hardly recognizable forms- all in the name of those being awesome.

 

Anyway, i look forward to seeing your work and stealing your ideas.

 

Also, you could watch the movie "Ultramarines"- i believe there's a scene, where a squad rides inside a transport of some kind- it should give you a general feel of the technology involved.

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Ok, tracks are on one side and I'm preparing to fit the internal bulkhead, though this I feel is for another day. Got a little distracted in the meantie and started to upgrade the lights. Probably not going to wire these up, I simply want them for the optics.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a4.jpg

 

Time to hang the hat for my first evening on this kit.

 

More tomorrow guys

 

Stuart

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Right, the wife is out tonight, so onwards and upwards....

 

Work on the interior continues with the final touches to the crew compartment.

 

A grab rail has been added beside the hatch and the interior bulkhead has been attached with ZAP medium contact adhesive. This stuff will glue anything, especially careless fingers... As you can see, a rather hefty gap also needed filling with two part putty and a sculpting tool.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a5.jpg

 

The minimal FW resin bulkhead replaces the standard moulded one which includes a control panel. This is to accommodate the main control desk that will sit adjacent to it.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a6.jpg

 

Once happy with the interior, it can be masked and primed with Citadel Skull White from a rattle can. I will be painting and weathering the interior before sealing it off and continuing with the exterior build.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a7.jpg

 

More in a tic!

 

Stuart

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Almost forgot the seat mounts for the two crew figures. This is probably the part I am most worried about. I tend to usually paint figures only when I have to (I find they can assist judgement of scale using a human reference point).

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a8.jpg

 

The FW resin part was pretty poor in my opinion, so I have replaced most of it with rod and wire. Seams left in from the casting would be very hard to clean up properly, so it was just as easy to make new parts.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a10.jpg

 

The cast, ribbed pipes were carefully removed and new pipes created by wrapping wire around a brass rod. Match the length of the new pipes against those just removed and glue in sections along the wind to keep the coils tight.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a9.jpg

 

Interior parts have been dry-fitted before pre-shading and spraying begins.

 

Next Steps:

 

Work out how I am going to paint the radar screens!?

 

Build crew and seating (Not looking forward to that!)

 

Pre-shade, spray and weather the interior

 

Seal off the interior by glueing the upper hull to the part completed sides.

 

Thanks for stopping by!

 

Stuart

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Super stuff Beaver!

 

Funnily enough I left historical miniatures for the same reasons, and am probably as guilty of messing with imperial STC's as the next best heretic!

 

But great work, love the little additions, the grab rail in particular is a nice touch.

 

One thing that has always puzzled me is the size of the keyboard at the right hand station. Exactly how many letters do we think the imperial alphabet has?

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Thanks for the comments guys. Good point on the keyboard, interesting one.

 

Big step for me tonight. Purchased some GW paints (still getting my head around the 'base' and 'layer' designations for paints), much to learn very quickly....Gulp!

 

My first step was to familiarise myself with GW paint through an airbrush. Besides being much thicker than the paints I am used to using, I was wondering whether they would mix other acrylics. Not perfectly is the honest answer. However, the addition of Lahmian renders the paint thin enough to spray. With that little experiment out of the way, onto the kit.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a11.jpg

 

After priming, the interior was sprayed with Zandri Dust to simulate shade. Onto that went light oversprays of Screaming Skull. Paint was mixed with Lahmian at an aprox ratio of 40L/60P.

 

The control desk is kept seperate from the interior panel and painted as a separate sub-assembly. The radar screens were painted first, the base coat being Tamiya X5 Green with progressively lightened oversprays working up towards the top left of the screen. To lighten the Green, a drop of Tamiya XF2 and Citadel Flash Gitz Yellow was added after each pass of the airbrush.

 

The radar screens were masked and the same process at the rest of the interior was applied.

 

Going to get stuck into the control desk details and oil washes next. Stay tuned!

 

Stuart

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Almost finished the interior. Chips and scratches have been added in varying degrees, focusing on areas of high traffic.

 

Chips were added with a small 5/0 brush, dark grey enamel paint was used as I like to work acrylic/enamel/acrylic. This was the layer you are working on does not react with the layer you are painting onto. This also enables you to erase any mistakes with the relevant solvent without removing the base coat. You can 'save' your work every so often with a coat of acrylic matt varnish.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a12.jpg

 

An oil wash of Vandyke Brown was applied once everything was applied. I did try Citadel Agrax Earthshade wash, though wasn't happy with the staining it left once dry. More practice needed I feel...

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a13.jpg

 

I've primed one of the figures in preparation for their painting. Some more research is needed before I jump into that one though.

 

More soon

 

Stuart

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Hi

 

I'm now at the stage where I can glue the upper hull to seal the interior and press on ahead with painting the exterior. The replacement resin top hatch is wildly undersize and required modification, I also up detailed the arm of the dish as this was not very detailed.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a15.jpg

 

I have taken the opportunity to add a few lights to the crew area with LED bulbs and fibre-optic cable.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a16.jpg

 

The red LED sits above the side crew hatch, the wiring passing through the cavity of the track section. The control panel and hatch control panel light are powered from a small light box sat in the driver’s compartment. Wires for both sets of lights will come out from under the Rhino to be powered by an external power supply (yet to be confirmed as the red LED seems to want more power).

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a17.jpg

 

Optics on the control desk were drilled from the top and the cable passed through the bottom before being cut to length. Be warned, you will need about three pairs of hands to cut, fit and glue the control desk to the side panel and the lower hull. Effect will hopefully be worth it.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a18.jpg

 

Next update will probably cover the priming and pre-shading of the exterior.

 

More soon guys

 

Stuart

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Stu,

 

Looking great man, Love the work with the fiber optic on the control panels, great idea that I think I shall have to "borrow".

LED is looking good too, glad you found somewhere suitable to mount it, I think that's a good location.

 

Is that my heat shrink on the cabling? (Hopes to bask in reflected glory)

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This is absolutely astounding. It's really awesome to see more "realistic" painting techniques applied to sci-fantasy model like this. I'm curious, do you have a gallery of your historical armor work? Also, do you have corresponding figures, or just vehicles? I think it would be cool to see a squad of space marines painted to match your awesome Rhino here.

 

What sorts of detailing and modification will you be doing to the outer hull of the tank? Are you considering adding a driver's cabin, as well? I think I'm going to try the same sort of thing your doing here (sans lighting, I think trying to do that would make my brain hurt) on the vehicles for my army. We need to see more 40k stuff done this way!

 

Cheers,

Alex

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