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Damonocles Rhino Full build


Beaver2206

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Thanks guys. Big steps forward tonight. The highlights have been applied and the masking removed to reveal a sparkling new Rhino, fresh off of the production line. Now we have to age it, though that is another story…

 

The Caliban Green has been lightened with Warpstone Green using a colour desaturation technique applied via airbrush. This is really just a fancy way of saying fading panels from light to dark. I took a chance using Warpstone as I would usually lighten the base coat with either buff or white mixed with the base coat. The overall effect is fairly pleasing, though next time, I think I will fade panels using a bone colour instead.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a31.jpg

 

The effect is created by masking off areas not wanting the lighter colour. Try to fade vertical panels from light at the top to dark at the bottom. For horizontal panels, you can either fade in the centre of panels or pick out edges (as I have done here) by masking lower or recessed areas.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a32.jpg

 

You will need to mask the model is several stages. Pictured is the initial masking. This was then removed and the next set of masks applied. You will go through a lot of masking tape! Once all of the highlights have been applied, remove all of the masking and give the model a light ‘dusting’ of Warpstone over the entire kit. This, along with oil washes to follow will help blend the highlights, making the edges less harsh.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a33.jpg

 

The first set of masks can now also be removed exposing the bone coloured bands painted a couple of days ago. Set against the green, the bone sections look quite nice and I’m glad I pre-shaded with Zndri Dust.

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Oooh, that bone color is very nice against the green, it certainly adds a lot of visual interest. Though I think some spray got through your masking on the right front panel, there's a think vertical line from the bottom. Can't wait to see more.
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Hi everybody, never fear, work has stalled, though is quietly idling now that the Christmas season is out of the way. I have been working on the highlighting and will be sharing the progress very soon, some major lessons learnt here. Once I can evict the relatives that is...

 

Thanks for the continued support and I hope you all had a great Christmas. Anybody else looking forward to getting started again?

 

Stuart

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Time for an update on this build I think.

 

Work on the base coat is pretty much completed, so it’s on with the paint chipping, decals and weathering. The paint chipping in particular has presented quite a challenge to me. My usual regime would see me apply very fine hairline scratches to panels and chips to edges and raised details. Despite my efforts with various dark shades of grey and green, I simply could not find a colour that would cut through the rich Caliban Green. To this end I tried working from another angle and attempted lighter highlights.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a37.jpg

 

Though not as realistic in appearance, the effect fits in with the conventional painting style.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a39.jpg

 

Here is how the effect should work (M24 Chaffe coming out in Military Modelling Magazine early in the New Year), though I think I would need to develop this style further to fit the GW painting style. I think that is what I shall focus on with the next project (rather than messing about with lighting, despite how much I enjoyed fitting it…)

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/twitter6.jpg

 

I think the lines help distinguish the desaturation of the base coat colour, creating a stark edge to the panels

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a41.jpg

 

The highlight colour is a rough mix of 50% Warpstone and 50% Flash Git Yellow. The key to creating a fine highlight line is to apply the brush at a 45 degree angle and part empty the brush on a sheet of kitchen towel before introducing it to the model. If you attempt this with too much paint on the brush, the line will be thick and uneven.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a40.png

 

I hope this crude diagram will explain what I mean.

 

The Dark Angel doors have also received a base coat with Citadel acryics ( I am coming around to brush painting with acrylics rather than enamels!). Oil washes will add the final level of depth needed. I hope these colours are in keeping with Dark Angels…

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a38.jpg

 

I will probably update next when I have finished the highlighting and will demo my approach to getting flawless decals. This will be in a couple of days as I have relatives over, plus I have developed a minor addiction to Skyblock in Minecraft…. The wife is certainly pleased about that!

 

Thanks

 

Stuart

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Right, first off, Happy New Year to you all out there and thank you for keeping me going on this project.

 

In my experience, the key to getting good decal setting to almost any surface is like so.

 

1. Prepare the area first with a gloss coat. I use Humbrol 35 Gloss. Try to paint entire panels to avoid a ‘panty line’ where the gloss coat finishes. Leave to dry.

 

2. Cut the decal from the sheet with enough paper around the decal to handle it. Submerge in warm water for 30 seconds.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a42.jpg

 

3. Lift the decal from the water and bad the paper on some kitchen towel to remove the excess water. Slide the decal from the sheet and gently remove from the paper onto a clean moist brush.

 

4. Carefully lay the decal in place and taking another brush, wet the decal with Micro Sol (a decal setting solution). This will enable you to make minor adjustments to the position of the decal on the kit. Leave to dry.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a43.jpg

 

5. If you are placing the decal on an uneven surface, small cuts in the decal film where necessary followed by another application of setting solution may be necessary.

 

6. Seal the entire kit with a sprayed application of matt varnish to protect the decal from the weathering stage and to further blend the decal with the paint scheme.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Catch you all in 2013!

 

Stuart

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  • 2 weeks later...

Beaver2206 superb work sir! glad to see the project progressing so well... keep posting as i cant wait to see this completed. thanks for the inspiration!

 

 

peace

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Once the decals have been sealed and the matt varnish has fully dried, I started to apply my filter washes. These are oil paints mixed with white spirit and applied heavily to the model with a large brush.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a44.jpg

 

The aim is to saturate the surfaces so the dark oil wash collects in the edges and recessed detail. This technique adds depth to the model and is a very forgiving medium to work with as any excess wash can be mopped up with a clean, dry brush.

Even after one coat, the dark green has taken on a deeper tone and started to blend the highlights with the lowlights. I find that I usually need to apply around 4 coats of wash, obviously this depends on the colour and viscosity of the wash.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a45.jpg

 

On the subject of colour, I have used a Vandyke brown as a wash, though I may switch this mid-way through. Try experimenting. As stated, this is a very forgiving exercise.

 

I have experimented with the Citadel range of washes, though am still familiarising myself with their properties. I believe that mixing them with pigments will be the way forward. More of that to come soon.

 

Besides this, there is lots of detail painting going on in the background; doors, cupola, for example. I will saves these updates until the end.

 

Thanks

 

Stuart

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Fantastic work Stuart - it is really inspiring to see another take on the more traditional way of painting GW models. Yours is very clearly from a more classical modelers approach, which is very inspiring to see - it mimics the techniques used by Forgeworld, in their Imperial Armour Model Masterclass books.

 

GREAT work!

 

/vadskær

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