Cloud Runner Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Loving hte wash stage, really pulls it together, and I was a bit worried before that stage. Would you mind doing a tutorial for the electrics and lighting of the tank too please? Having been inspired by your use of fibre optics, I'm considering a similar upgrade to a kit along with the oft seen larger lighting effects. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHunters Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Everytime I look at this thread I feel the urge to pick up a brush and try some of these techniques. Inspirational brother, inspirational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmagog Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Im itching to see the finished model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat33.1 Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Well looking at the finished Chafee this should be quite spectacular once completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver2206 Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Thanks for all of the kind comments, we’re almost at the finish line! The tracks have also received an oil wash of Lamp Black and Burnt sienna, followed by a dry brushing of Necron Compound. If you have not used this paint, I would urge you to do so. This is part of the new Citadel range of ‘dry’ paints that if used correctly can be applied to great effect in many areas. And if stored correctly, a bottle will last you years! http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a46.jpg I have used it here to highlight abrasion on the metal tracks. I am not too tidy on this with it as much of it will be covered with mud, providing the perfect way to cover those ‘Ooops’ areas. Now the fun bit…Mud. This is a fun effect I sometimes apply to tank tracks to add a touch of context and realism. The technique is very forgiving and will be different every time you use it. First I make a mud ‘slurry’ from various ballast and pigment collected over the years. http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a47.jpg The only critical ingredients are PVA glue, paint and pigments, the rest is up to you and whatever you have to hand. Here I have used: Dried moss Dark earth pigment Light earth pigment Stones Scenic grass Red ballast Brown ballast The ingredients are mixed and applied to the underside of the model with an old brush. http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a48.jpg Be creative here and try to think how the motion and direction of the tracks would propel mud onto the vehicle. However, less is more sometimes and adding less at the start means you can always go back and add some more. http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a49.jpg http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a50.jpg One further point is that mud is never the same colour, so to break up the effect, either apply a second mud coat with a lighter or darker shade, or use dry pigments to suggest dry mud. OR both! More of this to come next update. Oh, and never fear Cloud Runner, a friend of mine and a member here is cooking something tasty up as we speak! Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 It's very effective mud, I must say. Looks like that Rhino has been rumbling through an english woodland, judging by that grime on the tracks. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmagog Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 What will you do next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver2206 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 What’s next? Well, I think I’m going to attempt a standalone figure as this is an area I would like to improve upon with my historical models. That may be in a month or so as I have magazine assignments to complete (AFV Club 1/35 Dorchester, yum yum) inthe meantime. When it is released that is (delayed). http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a51.jpg I have applied neat pigments to the track and lower portions of the tank. This is a mixture of Mig pigments and Forge World equivalents, which I find a touch more oily than the Mig powders. http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a52.jpg This simulates dried mud nicely and is a fairly forgiving medium to work with; if you don’t like a section, simply rub it off with your thumb! http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a54.jpg I couldn’t resist connecting the rather primitive power supply, consisting of 4 pill batteries held together with tape. Brother DJGoldsmithwould be very upset to see my shoddy wiring… http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a55.jpg In hindsight, the interior red lamp needs a higher output LED for a more pronounced effect, though I am very pleased with the fibre-optics. Again, more on wiring the Rhino to come in a stand alone FAQ. http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a56.jpg Apart from that, smaller details have been applied and apart from picking out the jewels on the Dark Angel doors, these are pretty muchcomplete. A few repairs here and there (cat managed to break all of the aerials off) and we’re done! http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a53.jpg Thanks for your continued encouragement Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djgoldsmith Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Outstanding Stu, can I say, it looks as good in the pictures as it does in the flesh. Add a photography tutorial to your list of things to do. Nice to see all the finishing touches and it all in one piece. Cant wait to see your character painting, and may I say its a great model you have chosen EDIT: On the lighting tutorial, booked some time this weekend to make a start, your dremmel has been looking at me funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Mjollner Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 I'd not come across this thread until today, I must say I very much enjoyed it from start to finish. Your skill is amazing, and gives the rest of us something to aspire to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muller Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 While it's a great looking model I'm not feeling it.The colors feel a bit muted and dull. Feels like it's missing something.(Oh and airbrushing is cheating ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facmanpob Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Yep, its a beautiful thing :tu: Looking forward to seeing what you do with a single model. Any idea of who it will be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver2206 Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 While it's a great looking model I'm not feeling it. The colors feel a bit muted and dull. Feels like it's missing something. (Oh and airbrushing is cheating ) I agree with the colours looking a little duller that I had anticipated, this I will improve upon next time. I put this down to inexperience with the Citadel range of colours, in particular the Caliban Green which I found a lot richer than expected and very hard to fit my weathering regime around. Thanks for the feedback, I will take it on board. Can't see how airbrushing is cheating, though we'll save that for another forum thread... Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud Runner Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 One very quick minor thing I've spotted, that I hope you haven't overlooked: The vision blocks on the cupola are the same colours as the rest of the hull, and there's also no hatch to cover it. Minor details, but as I'm sure you'll appreciate, AFV modellers can be the least forgiving!! Looking forward to djGoldsmiths lightiong tutorial as well - hoping to be able to adapt it for other effects etc Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver2206 Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Well spotted Cloud, I will get onto these next. I can't believe I missed these. Do you think I should use the same technique as applied to the lenses on the radad unit? Or apply reflective material to them to mimic glass? Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cretheus Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 The more I look at you thread I really think I need to re-do my own rhino APCs do you're weathering and oiling techniques apply well to a metallic base colour? I love the feel for the piece, and I actually like the muted tones you have applied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud Runner Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Well spotted Cloud, I will get onto these next. I can't believe I missed these. Do you think I should use the same technique as applied to the lenses on the radad unit? Or apply reflective material to them to mimic glass? Stuart I like how you've done the others and think consistency would be best. However, I'm really intrigued by the simulated glass and always love to see new techniques and ideas. Perhaps an overview of both techniques could help? Great to see a wonderful rendition of an element for an army very dear to my heart. For the infantry project, I think you could do an amazing job on a regular marine, perhaps a scout to give some variation. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmagog Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 all I can say is wow! Defo one of the best 40k afvs I've seen. So look forward to your next work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Yak Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 A work of art. Brilliant plog from start to finish. I am looking forward to trying out some of your weathering and mud techniques myself. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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