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Damonocles Rhino Full build


Beaver2206

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great to see your work on a 40K model ~smiles~ and also i am guessing your historical stuff must be truly amazing! your skill with paint/brush/craft tools is incredible and i cant wait to see more progress... wish you a fantastic Christmas Sir! i have bookmarked your thread to check back later... catch you on B&C soon Battle-Brother ~salutes you~

 

 

peace

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Thank you all so much for your kind words, they are much appreciated.

 

Typher, I didn't know you actually destroyed the figure/unit once it has been destroyed in-game. What an expensive hobby... LOL.

 

Kanan, I've been building historical subjects for years and now write freelance for Military Modelling Magazine. This project has been a wonderful breath of fresh air and one I will definately return to. in the future between articles.

 

Hopefully the praise won't be lost when I start painting the figures, this is the biggest shift for me as I am aware that I am adopting a very different style to what I am used to. I hope I can achieve a pleasing result.

 

Death Given Form - I do have some work online, (Link) though it will be a little out of date as I mainly do magazine work these days, that's another reason I am enjoying this build, I get to share my work and participate in a forum with such kind and talented individuals such as yourselves.

 

Back to the build. The upper hull is attached and I have started painting the crew. I will post an update tomorrow evening.

 

Thanks again all

 

Stuart

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Wow.

 

Just... wow. Amazing work so far - it's seeing this kind of stuff that keeps my modeling going when I'm to apathetic to pick up a paintbrush. If the exterior is half as tricked out as the interior, this is going to be epic! Keep it up!

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your doing a great job and giving me a lot ov ideas for my present from santa ;) you should have called your blog pimpin ma rhino lol looking forward to seeing the end product
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Again just amazing, do you know a link where I could purchase the LED kit as I have 2 Land Raiders that would love the treatment. Also are there instructions that come with the light sets as I have never attempted a project of this caliber.
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Thank you all so much for your kind words, they are much appreciated.

 

Typher, I didn't know you actually destroyed the figure/unit once it has been destroyed in-game. What an expensive hobby... LOL.

 

Kanan, I've been building historical subjects for years and now write freelance for Military Modelling Magazine. This project has been a wonderful breath of fresh air and one I will definately return to. in the future between articles.

 

Hopefully the praise won't be lost when I start painting the figures, this is the biggest shift for me as I am aware that I am adopting a very different style to what I am used to. I hope I can achieve a pleasing result.

 

Death Given Form - I do have some work online, (Link) though it will be a little out of date as I mainly do magazine work these days, that's another reason I am enjoying this build, I get to share my work and participate in a forum with such kind and talented individuals such as yourselves.

 

Back to the build. The upper hull is attached and I have started painting the crew. I will post an update tomorrow evening.

 

Thanks again all

 

Stuart

 

hahaha you got me.. I play for keeps.

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Thanks for your kind comments guys!

 

I like your style Typher, up the stakes! :)

 

Jwentzel, the LED treatment requires not more skill than wiring an LED to a battery and a steady hand with a drill. Try experimenting with wiring off of the kit before installing, just to get a fell for where it would work best and how much wire you need to allow. 3-6V should do the trick, depending on how bright you want the light.

 

The one-piece upper hull plate has been fitted, exposing a whole host of gaps and holes to fill and sand. Two-part putty was pushed into the gaps with a clay sculpting tool, you can get a much more controlled application this way. I use a mixture of files and wet and dry sandpaper to file back the putty and bring back the smooth finish of the plastic.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a20.jpg

 

The next step is to add bolt detail to the front and back and attach the re-modelled headlights ready for priming and pre-shading. I am really interested to see how a colour desaturation effect (Panels fading light to dark from top to bottom) will work with Caliban and warpstone green.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a19.jpg

 

You will also notice a figure in the picture. My initial attempts with an airbrush resulted in a much too subtle and realistic effect, that didn’t fit with the subject matter. I hardly ever brush paint with acrylics, though I am very pleased with the Citadel paints and have learnt a lot from experimenting.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a21.jpg

 

Here are my efforts so far, just the fine details to apply and perhaps a decal on the shoulder pad. I have tried to mimic some of the painting styles I have seen on here, which (for a fairly basic technique) seem to comprise of a deep shade coat, with highlights and extreme highlights to areas of raised detail. I have been advised that the icon on the chest and shoulder of the marine are not accurate with the Dark Angel designation. Whilst unfortunate, this is a learning curve for me and I am not too upset about this at this stage of the build. Please forgive the mistake here and bear with me on future blunders, there’s a lot to take in.

 

Eager to get painting now!

 

Stuart

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Thanks for the feedback on the green, I hope the shade will darken a little once I apply some oil washes.

 

So after adding the rest of the bolt detail, I was going to start painting tonight, though got tempted to wire up the front headlights. I was not initially intending to do this as lighting a part with so many joins around it means that the bonds will have to be water tight so as to avoid any light ‘leaking’ and generally looking horrid.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a24.jpg

 

The headlights were modified using the existing part, only with a new front panel made from styrene card and drilled to match the original. A small pin vice is ideal to get the holes started, then widened by hand with a round file.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a23.jpg

 

As with the internal lighting, the wiring shall be run through the cavity of the track section and out underneath the lower hull. The slopped armour the headlight sits on requires drilling out to accept the wiring of the LED. For this I used a variable speed rotary tool (A Black and Decker RT-6500 is perfect for this kind of work as it is comfortable enough for fine detail, though has the ‘oomph’ for heavier materials such as resin and metal), the same tool as used to hollow out the exhausts, but with a different burr.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a25.jpg

 

The end result is quite pleasing, and with luck and a lick of paint, the effect will be hopefully be a success. The wire cage light guards will be added after the base coat has been applied so I can mask the area properly.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a22.jpg

 

Now for a bit more figure painting, I need to leave the second headlight to dry overnight - to cope with the drilling and filing to follow.

 

Have a nice evening folks and catch you all soon!

 

Stuart

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Here are my efforts so far, just the fine details to apply and perhaps a decal on the shoulder pad. I have tried to mimic some of the painting styles I have seen on here, which (for a fairly basic technique) seem to comprise of a deep shade coat, with highlights and extreme highlights to areas of raised detail. I have been advised that the icon on the chest and shoulder of the marine are not accurate with the Dark Angel designation. Whilst unfortunate, this is a learning curve for me and I am not too upset about this at this stage of the build.

 

Well, it's certainly not odd to see AdMech/Techmarine symbols for tank crews but if you are referring to the special DA-AdMech styled symbols, the only real difference is the skull is hooded - I minor quibble. However, one thing you could consider doing is simply switching the cog/skull motif pad to the other side and giving him a proper DA icon on his left shoulder.

 

Anywho - great work thus far. I can't wait to see it as it develops.

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Thanks EPK, I will see if I can get some DA Decals sorted on the shoulder pads. As for switching them, The glue I used will simply not permit that...

 

The main body of the kit and all of the separate sub-assemblies were primed with Citadel skull white from a rattle can. I now understand from painting the figures that it is sometimes also beneficial to prime with black. Something I very rarely do, though for the tank, I still want to prime with white.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a26.jpg

 

A pre-shade coat of Vallejo Black Green was applied via airbrush to edges and bolt detail. This will bring out depth once the top coat is applied.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a27.jpg

 

The recessed sections on the front and back were base coated Zandri Dust and highlighted with Screaming Skull. Paint was mixed 50/50 paint to Lahmian to achieve a good flow from the airbrush.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a28.jpg

 

These sections will be masked off before the Caliban Green base coat is applied to the entire kit, followed by Warpstone highlights.

 

This is a critical stage in the build, once the base coat and highlights are on successfully, we’re past the difficult bit and onto some detail painting and weathering.

Do you think I should go for subtle weathering, possibly suggesting a fairly recent tank out of the factory. Or, a battered heap that appears to have seen every campaign and is near retirement? Or, somewhere in-between?

 

More to come soon!

 

Stuart

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Well, I'd consider somewhere in-between. Given your skill (which is amazing, I should add) that should be fairly straight-forward. Some weathering, sooting, ground splatter, etc but not ready to fall apart if you take your foot off of the accelerator.
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In between would be my vote. I'm curious if you plan to add any baggage or accessories to the exterior? Its something I find isn't done very often with GW vehicles but adds the realism and believability that they are something that actually sees service. Either way, I'm really enjoying this approach to a rhino. I've learnt a few things already and I cant wait to see more :huh:
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Seems a moderate approach to weathering is on the cards for this build. I shall try to keep to this remit and cover the techniques I use in depth so you can give them a go.

 

The bone coloured areas have been masked with Tamiya 6mm masking tape and will remain covered until the base coat has been fully sprayed.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a29.jpg

 

The base coat green of Caliban has been sprayed over the pre-shading. This had to be applied in several light coats to avoid pooling and equally important, avoid covering the pre-shading.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/0a30.jpg

 

The Caliban is a very deep green, so I am going to apply and overspray of Warpstone green on selected panels. This will require further masking off of areas, so I have to leave this coat to dry fully.

 

I will have another update tomorrow evening where I should have the top coat applied and the masking removed. Then we can get on with the weathering and fine detail stage!

 

Stuart

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nice progress there Sir! i am loving your very meticulous and thorough technique... cant wait to see this finished and as a Dark Angel player im really enjoying this ~smiles~

 

catch you on the flip side

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Nice work Stu, looks like you have a productive weekend.

 

Looking fantastic so far, You even got the headlights working. Just don't glue down those hatches till I see you on Weds ;)

 

Hoping that the GW / Dark Angels theme is one you want to continue, even if it makes me feel a little jealous of your skills.

Cant wait to see how the rest of the job come on, especially your take on weathering for the grimdark of 40k.

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