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That’s a GK Terminator Apothecary helmet.

 

I do think it looks more like a targeting unit and fits the heavy weapon perfectly!

 

Yup! I tried it on the commander first and it didn't seem to work, but it was just right for the heavy fire support. I also had to shave the back side of the upper lens housing so the helmet could sit in the neck socket properly.

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BCK, youve been on a rool! I particularly love the first GRavis Terminator, the one with the storm bolter stand-in. It just looks so increadibly brutal!

Also: *GASP* you painted something? Warboss Grulgore Dagruk and GRIFF! look so cool! I had no idea you were doing orks, ever. Great work

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Your enhanced terminators look great but i'm not a fan of GK helmets.

 

It's mainly because I prefer the iconic standard terminator heads.

 

You're in luck then!

 

BCK, youve been on a rool! I particularly love the first GRavis Terminator, the one with the storm bolter stand-in. It just looks so increadibly brutal!

 

Also: *GASP* you painted something? Warboss Grulgore Dagruk and GRIFF! look so cool! I had no idea you were doing orks, ever. Great work

 

Yeah, I knew I was on to something with that first guy. :smile.:

 

I've always appreciated orks, I just had to make myself stay away from them because all the conversion possibilities - literally anything you think of and do with orks is acceptable in the setting - because I could easily be consumed by such a thing.

 

Your ork with the fez (or is it a hat-squig) looks great!

It is a fez and was specifically requested for the warboss, but I decided his spotta grot would want one of his own to show off his status wif da boss.

 

 

Like I was saying to YW7 in a previous post, it's important that you're happy with your models and anyone who's looked through this thread knows I frequently decide against an initial version of something and adjust it. I really liked the idea of the twin-linked autocannons on the termie but when I came back to it the next day it looked pretty boring and I wanted to do something else. Which sucks, because chopping up all the arms to make both of his took me something like 3 hours.

 

I also ordered some normal termie heads and a single GK head from ebay last week because I couldn't find any of my GK termie heads and the old plastic termie heads from the original kit look like crap so I got some from the newer Deathwing kit. And of course, I found all the GK termie heads the next day and that's what I've been using on these guys.

 

Tonight, when I changed up the autocannon termie I put an OG helmet on it, and I gotta say, it looks pretty fething good.

 

xm52Z6b.png

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Someone decided to make a movie based on The Mutant Chronicles RPG (the lore is recommended for any fan of 40k) and Ron Perlman plays a warrior-monk with a warhammer and a double-barreled plasma shotgun.

 

Wonder why I remembered that movie just now ; )

 

I've never heard of that movie. Ron Perlman, Thomas Jane, and John Malkovich? How did this completely escape my attention?

 

The og terminator heads really look much better. There's just so much bulk to them that add to the walking tank feeling that I think terminators should convey

Yeah, once the better looking Deathwing termie heads showed up in the mail I knew I had to use them. I may still keep the GK head on the sarge though. Speaking of, now that the weather has warmed up to the point that I can use my printer again, I did some random bits and a non-40k figure just to see if the machine was still dialed in, and the shield I found for the commander looks pretty spiffy.

 

8azaZvi.png

 

The fifth and final member of the squad has also been realized and not a moment too soon since the arms on the Inceptors from the Dark Imperium box set are not all that fun to work with given the weird  gunslinger poses.

 

KIgZADf.png

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Had another go at some box dread mortis printed weapons. The lascannon and HB arms that were in here previously had some issues because I didn't support them well enough in spots and the ends of the barrels in particular that weren't properly round. Starting from scratch with the supports on the lascannon arm and an assault cannon for the first time, the lascannon came out much better this time. The assault cannon barrel tips are a bit wonky, but I don't know if I'll bother printing more and trying to correct the supports.

 

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The print on these took about 3 hours and according to the slicing program cost me an estimated 64 cents worth of resin.

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I think I mentioned it in here previously, but if not, the colors I want to do these templars in is a bare metal steel color of some sort with orange robes. Color theory shows us that blue and orange do well together so I started looking for metallic paints with a slight blue tint and couldn't really find anything I liked. A little over a week ago I found this Artis Opus video on YouTube about painting Grey Knights and loved the hint of blue in the metal basecoat he put down prior to covering the whole thing in a blue wish.

 

https://youtu.be/pCOC4PUkusY

 

I'd seen some of his videos before and had already ordered some similar Army Painter brushes 'cause the ones from their store a bit out of my price range. After that video, I ordered the same color paints and they arrived today, and here's the test on a plastic box dread.

 

6idQJ0f.png

 

Is it perfect? No, but it was a test and got me some of the information I was looking for.

 

1) The guy in the videos is really good at painting in that style and also constantly mixing up a color that's almost identical with each new brush load of paint. After the first few brush loads with the tone all over the place, I mixed up a little batch on my palette and used that. I'll mix up a much larger batch later on when I start painting in earnest.

 

2) Even though it was the first time I'd ever used these brushes and has been years since I drybrushed anything because I hate the dusty, textured look it usually gives, it was shockingly easy and fast to get good results with this slightly damp dry brushing method. And it was actually fun! I can't remember the last time I enjoyed putting down a base coat this much. 

 

3) Getting highlights on top of the silver-blue color with the damp dry brushing also looks shockingly good. I would go back in with a brush and edge highlight after for a really sharp edge, but it almost looks airbrushed, which is great, 'cause I can't really use mine right now due to the living situation.

 

If anyone else is interested in the technique, there's a lot of Artis Opus vids on YouTube covering all kinds of colors, models, and specific techniques to use the drybrushing for and the Army Painter brushes are a decently priced alternative. For the dampening pad I used the packing foam block from a blister back, in the clear blister (it fits perfectly!) with a few drops of water on it.

 

Edit: If you want a cheap alternative to the texture palette used in their videos, you can find textured card stock at a Hobby Lobby or similar store for pennies. I already had some from my bookbinding hobby and it worked great.

 

Good god-emperor, I'm actually excited about painting. :smile.:

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Off to a solid start, I've also seen the Artis Opus videos and have been really impressed by how effective the drybrushing technique can be. I definitely want to invest in some circular brushes, but I suspect I'll start with the much more affordable makeup brush... 

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For color-tinting metallics, inks are generally your answer as they do not dull the shine of the metallic like normal acrylics do.

Dread came out nicely.
I have also rediscovered not-that-dry-drybrushing thanks to Artis Opus and I simply love it on bigger areas. Regular marines tend to require standard techniques touch-ups in places so it's not that efficient.

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Off to a solid start, I've also seen the Artis Opus videos and have been really impressed by how effective the drybrushing technique can be. I definitely want to invest in some circular brushes, but I suspect I'll start with the much more affordable makeup brush... 

 

I tried the makeup brush on some of the fantasy stuff I've been printing for me and my brother and wasn't all that impressed. It wasn't bad, it just wasn't the huge difference from the usual brushes I used to do drybrushing with.

 

For color-tinting metallics, inks are generally your answer as they do not dull the shine of the metallic like normal acrylics do.

 

Dread came out nicely.

I have also rediscovered not-that-dry-drybrushing thanks to Artis Opus and I simply love it on bigger areas. Regular marines tend to require standard techniques touch-ups in places so it's not that efficient.

When the new plastic Grey Knight models came out way back when I bought in pretty heavily and tried tinting some silver colors with blue ink and it was so overpowering it was almost impossible for me to get subtle blue shift I wanted from it. I did a little more testing over the last couple of days and landed on a mix I really like. A number of years ago a friend bought a bottle of Vallejo Gunmetal Blue so I could paint one of his minis with it and it also blew up in popularity a while back for painting HH Alpha Legion models.

 

It's been sitting in a box of infrequently used paints (even for me, yeah yeah) and I tried 1 drop of this with 6-7 drops of the Vallejo Game Air Silver that I used previously with the mix of Black and Huldra Blue from the Artis Opus video and this is so much better IMO. It doesn't lose as much shine as the previous mix, the blue tint is more consistent, and closer to the RoboCop blue steel look I wanted. Problem is, the hint of blue doesn't show up all that well in pictures.

 

I did a quick repaint of the box dread and an intercessor I had previously airbrushed with Vallejo Metal Color Dark Aluminum. You can see the much darker and warmer Dark Aluminum color on the inside of his collar.

 

FWrf9sh.png

 

I also used the medium Army Paint round drybrush on the intercessor with little trouble.

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Has something that later seems painfully obvious completely bypassed you somehow? I've seen this picture before, mostly in B&W but at least once in color and never knew what chapter it was supposed to be, but I did know it was from Mikhail Savier.

 

jn0jdBg.png

 

 

Last night, I found out about the existence of the Silver Templars.

 

 

Silver armor with yellow accents.

 

 

ZbRzMdj.gif

 

 

I'll need to think on what to do about this. I've also been struggling to come up with something to differentiate them from Black Templars other than their armor is painted a different color.

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I had an idea on how to change up the paint scheme a little bit, because someone made a very good point to me last that that as far as silver marines go, Iron Warriors and Grey Knights dominate the field. Grey instead of silver came to mind, and then I remembered what I had done with the bare metal parts on the ork warboss:

 

uhtUFC9.png

 

I didn't want to paint the metal pure silver because it would too shiny and new on an ork, but I also didn't want to dump layers and layers of washes on top of it to dull it down. I considered going with grey instead, but when I tried, it didn't look like metal. So I mixed both and applied a couple of washes for grime and rust. To me, it looked like metal that had been dulled in the elements, but not overly weathered.

 

I tried the same thing on my test marines with 1:1 grey/silver and 2:1 grey/silver and used one of the pure silver ones for comparison.

 

cqin1xd.png

 

It still retains a little of the luster from the metallic paint and looks as though it's still maintained but not polished to a parade ground finish. I'm kinda partial to the 2:1 mix. Don't mind the texture since those guys now have at least 3 coats of paint on them, maybe 4 for the middle one.

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If you are interested in the Silver Templars, Hachette are doing the conquest stuff at 50% off including the Silver Templars source book etc

 

At least they are in the UK anyways

 

Have uyou consideed the vallejo metals range? Maybe something like burnt iron, exhaust manifold or jet exhaust? Magnesium is also a very nice dark metallic

 

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UBuyYWQ.jpg

 

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This weapon on an Ultra I am doing for my son is magnesium base with silver highlights.

Vallejo also do a black metal

 

I have burnt iron, jet exhaust, magnesium, duraluminium and silver, which I could do on on a base or something  as a sample if you like to see how the colours look?

Edited by Dantay VI
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