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Queen Bee Knight -- Thank you! Please read the new post

JeffTibbetts

By JeffTibbetts
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JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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Thanks, Lex! You're going to love it. DO NOT be intimidated by anything I did here. I'm just messing around and making it work. I've been painting clean marines for 25 years, with no battle damage or weathering. It's literally ALL new to me. Plus, I explain most of it pretty thoroughly here and on my blog, and you should feel free to ask any questions you like at any time. 

 

I still get a kick out of the rifling in the barrel. I just did it on a whim one day. I had no idea people would like it so much. :D Thanks for comment, man. 

WarriorFish Venerable Brother

WarriorFish

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Fantastic detail on the weaponry, I'm no longer sticking to my project plan as I've started assembling my Knight now. I hope you're happy with yourself, ruining all of my careful plans! :lol:

JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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Fantastic detail on the weaponry, I'm no longer sticking to my project plan as I've started assembling my Knight now. I hope you're happy with yourself, ruining all of my careful plans! laugh.png

I'm a loyalist at heart, but I can't say this small act of corruption doesn't please me. :D Go for it, man! I believe in you. And post pics.

The level of detail you've put into this model is just staggering.

Fantastic stuff - I can't wait to see how the paint on the armour all comes together! biggrin.png

Thanks, Ace! I'm really coutious to start the armor until I get a better airbrush, homie. I've got one Christmas celebration left, today. Maybe tonight I'll either have one or I'll be shopping online for one, if Santa thinks I've been good this year.

  • 2 weeks later...
JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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I've been messing with my airbrush, and I've managed to get the base rust down on some of the armored bits. Now you can see whet the peeling paint effect is going to look like a little better. This is just half Steel Legion Drab and half Blazing Orange so far. This will be hidden under the main paint, and when I add chipping this will shine through in places. Mostly, this step is cool because now you can see how the paint peeling looks without the color variations getting in the way.

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And I cracked out the macro lens to take some real close-up shots so you can see the really cool texture as it is now.

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Keep in mind, all that texture will get toned down a little bit as I go. This is just the base rust layer. Next will be some chipping fluid, then base paint, then pattern airbrushed on, plus some detailing. Some of the severeness of these edges will probably drop off, but I'm not sure by how much.

JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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I just noticed the first post was Feb 27 of last year. Holy crap, dude! Think you can make tie it all up on the anniversary?

Haha! I don't even think I'll be done by then... Crazy, right? I sure am getting my money's worth out of this kit...

 

@Batty: thanks! Now that it has an even coat, I can see it's exactly what I was hoping for! Can't wait to get some real paint on it now.

JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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Yeah, Ace. I felt the same way. I had the idea but I wasn't sure about it until I got the rust on. I think he tedious work was worth it. I was pretty jazzed so I got most of the rest of the rust done last night. I'm too chicken to spray the arms I've already painted, so I think I'm going to brush those areas. I'm not sure if it will look the same, though, so I might bite the bullet and mask them to spray as well. Can't decide.
JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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Okay. Big update coming. Strap in:

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I wanted to show this to you guys and gals before I forget. I traced the area where the old aquila loyalty icon used to be attached, and drilled out the mounting holes. When the Freeblade icon is attached, you'll be able to see traces of the old aquila. Kind of a nice touch. I also added a few very small marks where it was pried up. Okay, onto the weathering show.

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Here's a shot of everything with the chipping fluid sprayed on, ready for paint. This stuff is weird... It was developed from the so-called Hairspray technique that Mig Jimenez invented, and it basically feels like that. It's sticky and water soluble, so they're odd to handle at this stage. When you paint over the top, you can moisten the area later and the top layer comes away for realistic paint chips. Observe.

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Here we are with both the Averland Sunset and black bases down. No rust in sight. It's been completely covered up. Note, I went a little heavier than I needed to with the chipping fluid (I'll post a real tutorial on my blog when I'm done with all the weathering) and in same places the paint started 'crazing' or cracking like the GW technical paint they use for cracked-earth bases. I sprayed those areas one more time after the first dried and luckily they look fine. I don't even mind a little crazing to be honest, as it adds to the aged look.

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And here's a group shot after the chipping. I'm glad I did a test piece a long time ago, or I would have been surprised at how different the rust layer looks on the yellow side as opposed to the black.

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Here are the shoulders. I really tried to go about the same on both sides. It's so hard to get a good 'random' pattern. I actually let the fluid do most of the work, by covering the whole thing and running an old drybrush across it until it started to come apart, and then focusing on those areas.

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I wanted to go heavy on the sword, but honestly the fluid wasn't working with me very well. I thought I took a pic of the other side, where I tried to push it a little and actually went all the way through to the plastic. Ooops.

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The shins. I still need to add some more battle damage to these actually.

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My custom groin guard. I really like how this is turning out.

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Other bits of leg armor.

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The helmet and cowling.

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And the top carapace. I couldn't help but put the helmet and cowling under there as well. I went quite heavy around where the metal handles and hatch are. I also somehow completely forgot to do the black side on the top carapace. tongue.png The hatch isn't attached right now.

I was taking a shower this morning, and I realized suddenly that I've completely forgotten the toes on the feet so far! I'll need to catch them up, which is a real drag... I can't believe I blew them off.

Anyway, I'm pretty pleased with this. I think the amount is just right, since I have so much other stuff planned. Next stop is a spray of dullcote to protect this work and stop it from chipping. Then, I'll be adding the faint honeycomb pattern to select bits, and doing shading and highlighting on what's there so far. Then maybe some freehand and/or decals, then finally oil paint and pigment weathering. Of course I still have the metal trim as well. Lots to do still but this is the home stretch!

JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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It looks great, can't deny it, but it seems like alot of effort when you could just paint these brown chips on with a brush/sponge.

 

Story of my life, bro. Remember, part of what I'm doing with this model is just mucking about and trying new things. I may well decide that's the case next time I do a big model, but in all honesty I really like the way it looks and I think it would be tough to replicate with a brush and sponge. Might be similar, but not quite the same. Also consider the peeling paint that can hardly even be seen. This model is all about the fine attention to detail. I'd never dream of doing this much work on, say, a rhino. Well, maybe I would but I'm a little crazy. It's my belief that the extra effort will pay off in the final product, but I've said from the beginning of the project that I'm A ) doing things the hard way and B ) experimenting off the cuff. Basically I wanted to either try paint chipping fluid or salt weathering and I just chose one. 

KrautScientist Veteran

KrautScientist

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Your updates never fail to impress, Jeff! What I like more than anything else about this latest step is how texture is used: In normal miniature painting, we have grown accustomed to avoiding the buildup of texture at all costs, so it is really refreshing and wonderful to see it actually used as a conscious technique here.

 

And all the thought that has gone into the replaced aquila really blew my mind -- such an amazing concept for such a tiny area of space: NUTS! ;)

 

The one thing I am not entirely sold on (yet) is the bright red rust on the black parts of the carapace -- it looks odd for some reason, although maybe it's just because I'm not used to seeing black areas broken up by bright damage effects?

 

 

Have you seen this, btw?

JeffTibbetts Venerable Brother

JeffTibbetts

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Your updates never fail to impress, Jeff! What I like more than anything else about this latest step is how texture is used: In normal miniature painting, we have grown accustomed to avoiding the buildup of texture at all costs, so it is really refreshing and wonderful to see it actually used as a conscious technique here.

And all the thought that has gone into the replaced aquila really blew my mind -- such an amazing concept for such a tiny area of space: NUTS! msn-wink.gif

The one thing I am not entirely sold on (yet) is the bright red rust on the black parts of the carapace -- it looks odd for some reason, although maybe it's just because I'm not used to seeing black areas broken up by bright damage effects?

Have you seen this, btw?

Thanks for the blog shoutout! I read the first one but missed your second post! You're too kind, sir.

As for the rust bits on black, it's been a struggle for me from the early concept. I want the two sides to be weathered in the same way, and some aspects will work better with one side than the other. Yeah, the rust looks a bit bright on the black side, but it could look too dark on the yellow side if I deepen it. Keep in mind that the rust will darken just a bit as I continue with weathering, but I've yet to see a really good-looking rust effect under black paint in my internet searching. Usually people don't do it. I have, however, taken special notice of it in real life and rust DOES look pretty bright on black cars and trucks. I hear what you're saying, I'm just not sure how to avoid it without using different techniques to weather the two sides and that just doesn't make sense in my mind.

I'm going to run into a similar problem with the metal trim. I'm planning on using a brass, that's in real danger of not being high contrast enough on the yellow side. I plan to mitigate this with a fairly dark, deep shading/base as well as liberal blueish patina so it still pops, but it will absolutely look better on the black side by default.

Brother-Chaplain Kage Venerable Brother

Brother-Chaplain Kage

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It was developed from the so-called Hairspray technique that Mig Jimenez invented

 

Oh, Jeff...

 

http://i.imgur.com/i8il0IT.gif

 

The technique was actually invented by Phil Stutcinskas for his 2008 Best of Show winning model in the prestigious Euro Militaire competition. (Who now works for Forge World.)

 

http://i.imgur.com/UA8JPsZ.jpg

 

Mig Jimenez is kind of like the Carlos Mencia of the hobby world, stealing other people's ideas and trying to claim them as his own.

 

*ahem*

 

The Queen is looking great and it's nice to see all this finally starting to come together as you head into the last leg of the race.

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