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+ The Jericho Crusade + Sword Brethren Cometh!


Acebaur

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Rear with ETL III badge

 

 

Which is where it should be, because we have already punctured the ETL and are moving on.

 

Brilliant looking land raider and I just love all the detailing you have put into it.  The "cracked" marble effect is especially eye catching.

 

That feeling of accomplishment you have, enjoy it. It will drive you to the next level. We have much to accomplish ahead us.

 

TEMPLARS ADVANCE!

So I'm struggling to decide how to paint my Sternguard Sword Brethren's weapons.  There are only  a couple of pictures of sword brethren models that we have, one is  the GW models from the old Codex and there is one model in the new dex(technically two but only one is tagged as "Sword Brother") All of them have gold plated weapons. While I think that's fine for the official models because I'm going to use them as Honor guard, I think it might look a bit gaudy on a full 10 man squad of guys.

 

So I was thinking about only doing little bitz of gold on their weapons and maybe doing just the chainsword's (there are 3) in all gold).  Sort of like in the old dex that castellan has the tip of his combi-melta in gold. So it would be more like they have upgraded gold parts.

 

 

Thoughts?

That would work for Honor Guard. I personally dislike full golden weapons for Templars. Too ostentatious for my tastes. I prefer the simple "Boltgun Metal/Leadbelcher-everything" bolter. Even for Sternguard. But I digress.

 

If I were you, I'd try some things and see what works for you. You'll find something. :biggrin.:  (Alright, I admit, that's just a fancy way of saying: "I dunno! You're on your own!")

I have a Boltgun with it's edges gold, sort of how the Relic-Boltgun design used to be for WH40k: Space Marine Video Game.

Here's a picture:

you could try that out, ot something similar, but it would be better if you had the relic Bolter, from the Command Squad box set

Some good suggestions there guys, thanks. So my next decision is do I go with the standard color I use for my Initiates (which is similar to boltgun) or go with a shinier brighter metallic which is similar to mythril silver. I'm kind of leaning towards something slightly brighter but I don't know. 

So it's time for a ZEALOUS update!  I've been working away at my Sword Brethren (Sternguard) and wanted to share the progress.

 

So far I've gotten the base coat of red on their pads, have added some of the transfers to their shoulders and done a bit of the highlighting on the armor. Also I've tried a new way of doing the tabards and I think it came out pretty good. The model I used was a little harder than the rest will be because of the really sharp creases in the tabard.

 

 

"My tabard, the white of sun-bleached bone, offers a stark contrast to the blacker and than black plate beneath."

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140601_011127_zpsrp34qfzn.jpg

 

Here's a close up of the first step, getting a smooth layer of Bone White(I use the Vallejo game color)

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140601_011054_zpskl2yecmx.jpg

 

Group shot

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140601_010958_zps4ilmaunk.jpg

 

And some shots of the armor highlight.  I was going to black wash it and highlight the top most parts but honestly I don't think I need to. What do you guys think?

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140601_011204_zps8vz7qi7y.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140601_011213_zpsqsvemgti.jpg

 

 

Glad you like him!

 

@Bro Cristopher: Not terribly long, maybe 30-60 mins?  When I do the next one I'll time myself and see, 

 

@Golf: Yeah I did do part of a test model with each different way but only one leg each, so I think I will finish him doing the wash method just to make sure. 

Ok so while I was waiting for stuff to dry I started working on a test sword using HLVW's power field technique.  My main goal was to still have the sword look like it had a shiny finish if it were in the "off" position.  I think it came out well. I think the one side needs a little more dark blue around the lightning arcing over over the steel color. But otherwise I'm happy with the outcome. Thanks to HLVW! :thumbsup:

 

So let me know what you guys think!

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140602_002307_zpshoyxnwct.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140602_002259_zps3ezwlvs9.jpg

Thanks guys!  I've finished the tabards, they just need a dull coat or 3 (as they are really shiny from the glaze) and I have started highlighting the red on the shoulders.  I hope to finish that tonight and then it's on to finishing the rest of the armor highlights. 

 

 

Very nicley done, I really like how you made the effect of the power rolling over the blades surface.

 

Well I had a good tutorial to work from ;) :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...

So a quick update. I've finished the tabards and the red on the shoulder pads and am now working on the gold and silver bits on the Sword Brethren. Here a couple of quick and dirty photo's so you can see some of them.

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140609_213751_zpswaayhopu.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140609_213700_zpsx6wz0moj.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/output_zpst2c1lt5h.jpg

On the highlights:

 

Instead of re-highlighting the entire mini with another brighter highlight...maybe just hit up certain sections you want to draw the eye towards.  That will still give you a similar effect, while saving time.

 

If I had to pick, I'd do various sections of the collar and head.  If you are using GW paints, the later layer colors (like administratum grey) are very thin, so you can experiment without too much worry (they flow so nice).

For the highlighting, I decided that I'm going to stick with the single pass and only wash and/or re-highlight certain areas as needed  like you suggested.

 

@Greggles you've had good flow with the Administratum gray? Mine is terrible and it's brand new. I have to use flow improver on it to even make it usable. 

 

@HLVW:  I used a mix of Vallejo Bone White and Leather Brown in about a 2:1 ratio for the shadow, straight Bone White for the main color and straight White Scar (GW) for the highlight. Then I did a glaze using Liquitex acrylic glazing medium with the bone white to soften the contrast between the color changes.

 

Here is another pick (still with my phone) but this time in the light box. Also you can see I've made some progress with the first layer of gold and the leather belt painted(used Terracotta on that). I'm debating on weather to wash it with a red wash to give the leather more of the look from the SB in the old codex or just keep it this way and highlight it.  I wanted the SB to have their leather stuff look like a "richer" material than the standard Initiate.

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/Acebaur/40K/20140611_105104_zpsxcqgijxq.jpg

Thanks guys glad you like them.  The Vallejo paints are really excellent so far, much better than GW's.  I barely need to thin them as they flow really well straight out of the bottle. Also the dropper bottle is far superior to a pot which inevitably gets really messy.  

 

On the power weapon, next time I want to less dark around the lighting part as I think it makes it pop more I think. It of course looks darker in the picture than it is in life as well :p

 

@HLVW: One thing I forgot to mention regarding the glaze. It's glossy so you will need to dull coat the mini after you are done. Also you only need a really small amount of paint to mix with it as you want it to be basically translucent.  If you need some help with the ratio just let me know.

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