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Raph's Horus Heresy WIP

Michaelus_Raphael

By Michaelus_Raphael
in + BLOOD ANGELS +

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Michaelus_Raphael Battle-Brother

Michaelus_Raphael

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Angellic Brothers!

 

Many of you will have doubtless guessed that my recent queries about all things 30k were related to the release of the new Betrayal at Calth set. To that end I am (slowly) painting up the entire contents as Blood Angels - no Heretics or Smurfs for me!

 

Because I tend to be rather slow and get a bit demotivated I thought I'd start a thread to post WIP shots in an effort to shame myself into actually finishing something for once. So may I present the current progress on my Praetor?

 

I usually wet blend or glaze but this time I am attempting "loaded brush" blending, particularly on the gold. I'm not sure I've got the hang of it yet - Ben Komets makes it look a lot simpler!

 

Comments and criticisms welcome.

 

Praetor 1

Praetor 2

 

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Michaelus_Raphael Battle-Brother

Michaelus_Raphael

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That's disgusting

 

 

...ly good.

 

It's kind of looking pre heresy Thousand Son to me right now, but can't wait to see the finished article.

 

Hmm... it's the gold, isn't it? I think I'll just keep that to the praetor and the cataphractii...

Father Mapple Veteran

Father Mapple

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It's really really good and doesn't need a change as the finished model will balance out, I think.

 

I only say the following because you asked about the gold making it look like thousand sons. I would make the accent colors a starker contrast, and highlight the gold up more to make it look more polished and less brassy. While heresy blood angels are a bit more darkly shaded red, they're still artisans and noble, so a high gleam or polish suits them. Highlighting with a platinum or silver on the gold can do that.

Michaelus_Raphael Battle-Brother

Michaelus_Raphael

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Well the red has gone through various iterations but the current formula is:

 

Black primer

Mephiston red basecoat (several thin layers)

Shade with Khorne red then glaze the shade with Rhinox hide*

Highlight generously with Evil Sunz Scarlett

Apply a smaller highlight with Firedragon Bright.

Apply the top highlights with Kindleflame**

 

The key to all of the above is to keep the paint thin almost to glaze consistency.

 

* I'm not sure I'm satisfied with this step. I originally shaded with Khorne but it looked too purple. I glazed some Doombull over the top but it wasn't really dark/rich enough. I may paint further areas with Rhinox straight over the Mephiston.

** Kindleflame is a drybrush paint. I really shouldn't be using it but I liked the colour slightly better than Lugganath Orange, which is what I should be using. You'll need to thin the heck out of this with medium just to get it to normal consistency, then you can thin with water.

 

I'm not sure I can teach anyone anything about NMM or loaded brush as I'm very much a beginner myself but the key is to go nuts with the contrast. Everything I know about both techniques, I learned from the Painting Buddha videos for the Stormcast Eternal.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VepXVggrfiE&list=PL0_grDypO1do53axHnnPWA6b5mkcZ5Y7E

DarkMark Veteran

DarkMark

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I like what you've done so far. I'm not really fan of nmm true to be told. You're rather brave going straight in with the nicest model in the box!

 

Those Buhdda videos make great paint-along buddies. The German commentator is quite good. However, the English 'captain obvious' commentator has a massive man-crush on mr. Komets and it's uncomfortable listening for me.

Moggimus Battle-Brother

Moggimus

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Dude, it's nice that you are humble and all but there is no need, your painting skill is right up there, the nmm work is fantastic. Only thing I can advise is don't get sucked into going overboard, be it with colour variety or excessive detail. I am a firm believer of the less is more philosophy. Having said that you have a good balance with what you have done so far. One thing I wonder though is how you will adapt to painting whole units, if you make them this detailed it's going to take you a loooong time and your interest will almost certainly ebb.

 

I'm babbling. It's looking fantastic, I'm very impressed.

Michaelus_Raphael Battle-Brother

Michaelus_Raphael

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Dude, it's nice that you are humble and all but there is no need, your painting skill is right up there, the nmm work is fantastic. Only thing I can advise is don't get sucked into going overboard, be it with colour variety or excessive detail. I am a firm believer of the less is more philosophy. Having said that you have a good balance with what you have done so far. One thing I wonder though is how you will adapt to painting whole units, if you make them this detailed it's going to take you a loooong time and your interest will almost certainly ebb.

 

I'm babbling. It's looking fantastic, I'm very impressed.

 

Ha! It's very easy to remain humble, I simply paint my latest masterpiece, take a photo and look in horror at how dreadful the paint job actually is when it's zoomed in!!!

 

In all seriousness though, thanks for the kind words but you have hit on the exact flaw in how I paint - this works great for characters or small units but it a disaster for a 10-man squad or three... I think I'm going to have to simply it significantly when it comes to the Mark IV marines. No idea how I'll paint them yet but it'll probably be a lot less detailed.

Michaelus_Raphael Battle-Brother

Michaelus_Raphael

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I have quite a lot of experience and have helped others start off with them - happy to give you some tips if you like!

 

As the kids say; come at me, bro.

 

Current thinking is an AS-186 compressor with an H&S ultra airbrush - I'm really only going to be using it to lay down primer and basecoat on marines to start with but as the H&S ultra has a 0.2mm needle I'm not sure if that's too fine?

LutherMax Venerable Brother

LutherMax

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I have quite a lot of experience and have helped others start off with them - happy to give you some tips if you like!

 

As the kids say; come at me, bro.

 

Current thinking is an AS-186 compressor with an H&S ultra airbrush - I'm really only going to be using it to lay down primer and basecoat on marines to start with but as the H&S ultra has a 0.2mm needle I'm not sure if that's too fine?

 

 

The AS-186 compressor looks good – very similar to mine and it has served me well. Get the one with the tank on it so it's not running all the time (helps with the noise).

 

I don't have any experience with the Ultra but I do have a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity with a 0.2mm and 0.4mm needle. The 0.4mm can be used for priming, varnishing etc but the 0.2 is really good just for detail work. I also have a Badger 105 Patriot which has a 0.5mm needle and it great for varnishing, priming, metallic paint etc.

 

The thing about the Patriot and Ultra is they don't have a limiter (to limit the amount of paint that is released through the airbrush) which is quite important at the scale we work. I would recommend considering the Iwata HP-C Plus which has a 0.3 needle and a limiter. It's a really good 'happy' medium between the other airbrushes.

 

Other things you may need, in order of priority:

- A hose if your compressor doesn't come with one (1/8” to 1/4” I THINK but better check the airbrush / compressor spec)

- Cleaning pot / stand (something like this)

- A quick release is VERY useful, otherwise you have to empty the compressor of air each time you want to disconnect the airbrush. The exact one will depend on the airbrush you choose.

- Cleaning brushes (something like this)

- A spray booth if you're using it inside (something like this)

- A mask – safety first! (something like this)

-

Michaelus_Raphael Battle-Brother

Michaelus_Raphael

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

 

I have quite a lot of experience and have helped others start off with them - happy to give you some tips if you like!

 

As the kids say; come at me, bro.

 

Current thinking is an AS-186 compressor with an H&S ultra airbrush - I'm really only going to be using it to lay down primer and basecoat on marines to start with but as the H&S ultra has a 0.2mm needle I'm not sure if that's too fine?

 

 

The AS-186 compressor looks good – very similar to mine and it has served me well. Get the one with the tank on it so it's not running all the time (helps with the noise).

 

I don't have any experience with the Ultra but I do have a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity with a 0.2mm and 0.4mm needle. The 0.4mm can be used for priming, varnishing etc but the 0.2 is really good just for detail work. I also have a Badger 105 Patriot which has a 0.5mm needle and it great for varnishing, priming, metallic paint etc.

 

The thing about the Patriot and Ultra is they don't have a limiter (to limit the amount of paint that is released through the airbrush) which is quite important at the scale we work. I would recommend considering the Iwata HP-C Plus which has a 0.3 needle and a limiter. It's a really good 'happy' medium between the other airbrushes.

 

Other things you may need, in order of priority:

- A hose if your compressor doesn't come with one (1/8” to 1/4” I THINK but better check the airbrush / compressor spec)

- Cleaning pot / stand (something like this)

- A quick release is VERY useful, otherwise you have to empty the compressor of air each time you want to disconnect the airbrush. The exact one will depend on the airbrush you choose.

- Cleaning brushes (something like this)

- A spray booth if you're using it inside (something like this)

- A mask – safety first! (something like this)

-

 

 

Thanks for that, I think I've got pretty much all of that covered now - one (stupid?) question though, is a spray booth 100% essential?

Quick update - got the face painted and most of the armour blocked in. I think I may have gone a bit too far on the shading on the leg plate - the shoulder looks a bit better. C&C welcome as always.

 

Praetor10

Praetor11

Praetor12

Praetor13

Father Mapple Veteran

Father Mapple

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Posted
Spray both depends on the ventilation of the room. I do my airbrushing on the patio if it's nice out, or in a garage, and i just wear a face mask like at the doctors office (cheap ones) if I'm doing it for hours, otherwise I'll get colored mucus. Spraying red one day scared my wife because I sneezed into a tissue and it turned red! It's usually spray painted that do that more than an air brush though, as the spray is finer and more controlled. If spraying indoors, you need to let a window open at the least, or use a spray booth and pump the air out. Even acrylics van get bothersome after an hour or so. Enamels, primers, and other paint mediums need the ventilation. If you're using thinner that's not just still water or dish soap, but an actual chemical, then get a booth or ventilation.
Michaelus_Raphael Battle-Brother

Michaelus_Raphael

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Posted

 

I don't have any experience with the Ultra but I do have a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity with a 0.2mm and 0.4mm needle. The 0.4mm can be used for priming, varnishing etc but the 0.2 is really good just for detail work. I also have a Badger 105 Patriot which has a 0.5mm needle and it great for varnishing, priming, metallic paint etc.

- A mask – safety first! (something like this)

-

 

 

I forgot to ask, does the fact that you italicised the word "can" mean that you think a 0.4 is too big for priming and base coating figures. Still haven't decided whether I need a 0.2 and a 0.4 or whether the 0.2 is more than fine.

Moggimus Battle-Brother

Moggimus

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Posted

0.4 is a good size for priming and base coating, 0.2 is more for detail work, shading specific areas and so on. 0.2 will work on single models but is just more difficult to get a nice even coat, and very difficult when spraying larger models. I use a spray booth and don't bother with a mask, I find them very uncomfortable and annoying if you are painting for a while, as long as you are spraying into the booth and have the ventilation pipe going out a window, it should be fine. I haven't had any trouble with multicoloured snot yet.

 

By the way, the mini is coming along great, the leg does look a little flashy but still very good.

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