Legion of the Iron Lions Log: New Colors, MK VI

[jbaeza94]

2 done, 3 to go.  

Las plas, this is my favorite looking turret. 

I was thinking of adding a marine poking his head out, but I'm not sure of its a good idea,  since he might blow his own head off ha,  opinions? 

[jbaeza94]

 

So here is the comparison I threw together real quick.I really like the feel and look of the marine, kind of aggressive. I'm not quite sure he fits with the razorback though. Thoughts?

[SnakeChisler]

I don't do the guys popping up they look weird when they've been destroyed

 

I put a plastic bar under the hatch from the sprue frame with a magnet in one of the round bits so I can swap the storm bolter in and out, also transporting them your not liable to snap the storm bolter off if there rhinos

[jbaeza94]

I didn't think of wrecked vehicles, and transporting is a big deal

They will double as rhinos as well, I'll try the storm bolter magnet idea out

[Chaplain Raeven]

I always found marines on vehicles ridiculous because of GW's lack of equal scaling. And with the razorbacks I always have the feeling the turrets will shoot their head of anyway.

I used the marines at first, but I've replaced them by now with the hatches.

[jbaeza94]

Yeah I decided no marines, just the mounted storm bolted for when they're rhinos.

So while waiting for the etl to start, I decided I could practice painting some more. I thought, hazard stripes. I learned a few things.

-Make sure your paint is really mixed before you put it in the air brush cup. It took me a while to get a clump cleaned out.
-don't start blowing air over the mini, in case it spurts.
-yellow requires a few coats, while black covers extremely well and fast.
-use thinner strip of tape. Although my stripes look nice, I feel the yellow is too wide.
-frog tape leaves really sharp lines (I use a rubber clay tool to push it down), but I wonder how standard masking tape works.

If anybody has any airbrushing tips, help me out! I feel i have a solid base, but I'm sure I could still learn some more from you guys!

Also, preshsading, what color would I use to bring out the "crease" between the hatches?  Should I just go over it with a shader instead? 

 

Edited May 14, 2016 by jbaeza94

[jbaeza94]

Hey guys, I have fluff written up abut the iron lions on b&c buried somewhere in the liber astartes, but I thought I'd share this story. It's really basic, due to the word count restrictions for the win a titan competition, but I've always had this battle in mind. The Defense of Liamane. Its the capital city of Invictumos, home world of the Iron Lions. Fun fact, the PDF are also called Lions. It's a piece of fluff I plan to expand on, but during the Great Crusade, a young Lion of the Casari,was taken away by Dark Angels legionaries during a compliance action, only later to return as a new Legion Master of Lions some 200-300 years later. Anyways, the Defense of Liamane:

 

The roars could be heard, and a thunderous stampede shook the ground. The soldiers of the PDF stood at their posts, lasguns at the ready, heavy bolters staged and ready to fire. The orks were charging the city. The artillery began to fire, followed by heavy bolters, then the lasguns. For days upon days, the PDF held the orks, but they could not forever. Slowly, the orks began to make ground. Some parts of the line began to be overran, and morale was swiftly dropping. Suddenly, the ground began to shake to a thunderous beat. The giant gates of Liamane open, and instantly a wall of mass reactive bolts and a torrent of flame begin to slaughter the orks. At the sight of the mighty machine, the PDF fought with newfound strength.

 

Wave after wave was beat back by the immense fire power of the god machine. Ork transports would be left burnt husks, their cargo reduced to ashes under the immense heat of the inferno gun. Even a stompa fell to the unrelenting torrent from the mega bolter despite its thick armor. No xenos filth was safe from the ferocity of the warhound titan. For 16 days, the defense of Liamane went on until the unthinkable happened. The orks relentlessness was enough to drop both void shields over the span of the battle, but a lone fighta-bommer crashing into its knee was what crippled the mighty titan and its maneuverability.

 

With a seized leg, the crew slowly maneuvered the warhound to the only entrance to the walled city of Liamane. The PDF took up positions along the walls of the city after a systematic retreat. The two giant doors shut, and only the titan remained in front of the gates of Liamane. For three days, the unmoving behemoth stood as a stalwart defender of the city. Countless orks and ork war machines fell to the might of the warhound. In the evening of the third day, the much needed support arrived in the form of drop pods and thunderhawk gunships of the Iron Lions space marine chapter. Crippled and unable to continue with the prosecution of the war, the god machine stood sentry over the city while ground forces drove the orks back.

 

To this day, it stands alone in unmoving vigilance. Should the orks return, they shall be greeted at the gate by the Pillar of Liamane.

[jbaeza94]

ETL is here! I got a good start on the 2nd squad razorback. Red signifies Cohort Leonus, violet signifies 2nd Squad.  

I tried shading with darker colors, to varying results.  But I'm satisfied and proud of it, better than I hoped for my first time also tried a chip/mud for the interior, it could be better, but i hope I do better on the outside.  Up next,  hazard stripes

 

Edit:

Oh no!! Ugh! So this happened.  

I was pulling off the tape, and it pulled everything including the primer off! 

I don't understand why,  I washed it with a degreaser (dawn soap and tooth brush).  Did I just not wash it good enough?  Or is this just bad luck?  Should i redo the whole thing or attempt to salvage it?  Help! 

 

Edit #2

I think it might be my tape being too sticky.  It began to peel every place, plastic and resin. Tomorrow I'll get some different tape.

All that red and purple are essentiallygone now, just going to restart on those

Edited May 15, 2016 by jbaeza94

[Epher]

Great little narrative! I can imagine the battle going on. It is cool idea of the warhound standing sentry outside the city.

 

I like the look of the forge world razorbacks. Sounds like they were a pain to assemble. They look pretty good in the pictures. I do not have much experience working with resin kits so I cannot offer any advice. It sucks that the paint peeled off. Did you use the GW black spray paint? I am not sure if it is a proper primer or not. I am curious to know since I have a LS Tempest to paint.

 

Good luck!

[jbaeza94]

Thanks brother epher! The Pillar of Liamame also signifies the close bond between Invictumos, the Iron Lions, and a Forge World. Contact was made before even the great crusade, so bonds are strong and long :)

They look great right? It's my first resin kit as well, I'm YouTube certified, but I guess we can were that left me at haha.

I used Vallejo Air White Primer, ive used gw black ptimer before, as well as caliban green. I'm not sure of their primer qualities, but they leave a great base coat.

I have a few ideas for when I redo them. I'm going to rewash the resin, to make sure that isn't a contributing factor. I'm also going to scuff up the resin using a high grit sand paper. My theory behind it is this, in autobody, primer has a better hold on rough metal than smooth metal. I'm thinking 400 or something a bit smoother, I don't want to erase detail. Last thing im going to do is use different tape.maybe not so sticky. My concern is unsharp lines.

 

Do you have tips for masking? See those parts I painted? Well its a funky shape, is it better to use multiple pieces, or try to shape one on it by putting it on and cutting with a blade? I haven't really found a good tutorial on this

Edited May 15, 2016 by jbaeza94

[Epher]

I've tried a few different sprays before but I always seem to go back to the GW chaos black spray can.  I will be using it on my LS Tempest conversion.  We could ask Brother Stobz what he is using on his.  I also found a thread and post that may be of interest:

http://bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/gallery/album_10975/med_gallery_83962_10975_431311.jpg

 

I do not have much experience with masking either.  I have done some basic lines like on my Land Raider and I used the green painters tape for that.  A trick that I have seen is to apply a coat of paint that is the same color under the tape and that way it will form a seal and prevent any of the detail color from seeping under.  So after the base color has dried, then apply your second color.  How long did you allow the primer to set before you applied the tape?

[jbaeza94]

It was about 5 minute before I applied the color on the razorback, but at least an hour before the tape. On the dozer blade, it was about 15 minutes for the paint, and another 15 for the tape. Should I be waiting longer before I apply color?

 

Edit:

The link you provided is a link to an image of your speeders ha. Did you mean to use a different link?

Edited May 15, 2016 by jbaeza94

[Epher]

Here is the proper link to the post and thread on priming resin: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/273880-priming-resin-models/?p=3353498

 

I would definitely give it more time for your primer to set.  One of the reasons that I like the GW spray is that I cannot remove it from my models using Simple Green.  It may be a different story with resin.   Anyways... Sableclaw gets sprayed today!  I will try a test patch underneath with the masking tape to see what happens.

[jbaeza94]

Thanks for bringing it up to stobz! I really appreciate it. That's a good idea to try it in the bottom. Best of luck. Don't forget the pictures ;)

[Lostrael]

I had a problem with resin recently. The surface was so smooth every paint and foundation would slip off.

I know the problem that sometimes, if you do not clean it properly, color will not stick to it. No matter how I cleaned it (oh I tried a lot) the color would not stick.

Then I read in an FAQ that they recommend to put it thin layer after layer.

 

What I did

put a thin layer, just a short burst with GW white on the miniature

let it dry

put a thin layer

let it dry

repeated it... 4 or 5 times.

 

It was a bit annoying but it worked. What I did not like is that the surface became a bit rough, which might be ok for a bigger model.

[Epher]

I managed to get some GW Chaos Black on my tempest today.  I was expecting rain but I managed to get it done before it started.  I waited about 30 minutes before I applied some painters tape to it and then another two hours before I took the tape off.  The black spray stayed in place and there was just a tiny bit that came off.  A black primer spray can may be your best option.  Brother Stobz uses a similar product too!

[jbaeza94]

OK hey guys, sorry for slow etl progress, the iron lions are doing battle with real life ay the moment.

But a fluff question!

So Invictumos, home world of the Legion of the Iron Lion. Thousands of years before the great crusade, the planet made contact with a lost forgeworld. They taught them of the machine god, and to venerate all machines. Much of their technological advancement came from this forge world. Fast forward to the great crusade. The Lions of the Casari, the planets military, is at war with the first legion.the Lions, much like the Knights of the Order, start training at a very very young age. With the Legions of Lions being wiped out, but the mentality that they will be able to still win (Invictumos means the invincible ), they begin to throw initiates at the dark angels. My idea is, a young (12-15) year old is out getting ready to fight. His squad attempt to ambush a squad of space marines,but fail miserably. The attempt to engage in cc, but are obviously outmatched. Finally only our hero remains. Knowing he is about to be defeated, he begins to claim how the Lions of the Casari will be victorious for Invictumos is invincible. He exclaims the Omnisiah will see it so. Surprised at this knowledge, of the Omnisiah, the squad sergeant decides to have him captured for interrogation. I have a crude basic storey written about this off you guys would lIke to read it.

This boy eventually becomes a dark angel legionary. Fast forward to after the Beast Arises,3-4th founding, a new chapter is to be made to specialize in Ork warfare. Invictumos is chosen as the planet due to their history with orks. This boy turned space marine, turned company master of an unforgiven chapter, is selected to return "home" and be chapter master. So my question is, is this scenario plausible? I'd really like my first chapter master to be from the compliance action of Invictumos, and being that it's only... 1000+ years... awe guys. I just realized it's millenia not centuries. I already wrote this all down, so I'll still post it to show some ideas i was brewing. Any way a marine from the great crusade/ heresy could still be alive during the 32 millennium?

[jbaeza94]

bah, real life. finally have some time this weekend and tomorrow to get on this etl! when i got home today, i remembered a post i made about the combi weapons, and well i just wanted to show you guys what i came up with. 

Company Master with relic blade and combi melta

 

i took the sword from a sanguinary guard, and angelis bolter. i attached an infernus pistol to the wrist bolter, and this is what it looks like. it could use cleaning up, but its just a mock up for now.

 

ill be getting back on the razorbacks soon. i have until wednesday to finish or else i wont be able to at all. changing duty stations is not very ETL friendly.

[Epher]

Hey, I recognize the hilt of that sword! My counts as Azzy sports one of those. Should we discuss the merits of the reverse grip?

 

Great pose of your model. The combi melta looks awesome, I am a fan! I like the head position where he is looking over to his left. It makes me think that the sword is swinging in.

 

I cannot wait to see some paint on him!

[jbaeza94]

What are the merits of reverse grip? I thought it was a bit odd.

 

And paint is a long way away sadly. :/ etl razorbacks first, then the new training I'm getting, then when I get to my next post, I'll be able to start up again on the lions! I wish I could claim the pose, but fw made him like that! All I did was add the arms ha :)

[Major_Gilbear]

The model looks good with the Encarmine Blade.

 

The combi-bolter does look a bit bulky to me... I wonder if shaving the housing down more and using a smaller Melta nozzle (the one from a BaC Combi weapon maybe, or the Tac/Dev squad combi perhaps) would fit better? I would also lose the drum mag and try to add a shaved-down box mag or pistol clip instead.

 

I'm sorry to mention it really, but it is bulky enough that I feel it detracts from the fluidity of the "master swordsman" look of the model.

Edited July 21, 2016 by Major_Gilbear

[SnakeChisler]

Yeah I decided no marines, just the mounted storm bolted for when they're rhinos.

 

So while waiting for the etl to start, I decided I could practice painting some more. I thought, hazard stripes. I learned a few things.

 

-Make sure your paint is really mixed before you put it in the air brush cup. It took me a while to get a clump cleaned out.

-don't start blowing air over the mini, in case it spurts.

-yellow requires a few coats, while black covers extremely well and fast.

-use thinner strip of tape. Although my stripes look nice, I feel the yellow is too wide.

-frog tape leaves really sharp lines (I use a rubber clay tool to push it down), but I wonder how standard masking tape works.

 

If anybody has any airbrushing tips, help me out! I feel i have a solid base, but I'm sure I could still learn some more from you guys!

Also, preshsading, what color would I use to bring out the "crease" between the hatches?  Should I just go over it with a shader instead? 

 

Some tips

 

I use a flow aid medium (Liquitex) and put a few drops in the cup 1st then then the airbrush paint, the flow aid helps coat the needle so you don't get an initial spurt, if you do get spurts your pain may be too thick

   or

Airbrush paint settles, I use Vallejo which is decent quality and has a really strong pigment more so I would say than GW Air but having them sat there for weeks will still result in the some separation. You really need to shake the bottle well before starting then shake it again and after shaking it leave it for a minute and then dropper it into the cup, if your like me and don't use a colour for a while even this isn't enough if you tip the bottle over to put it in the cup the sludgy heavy paint immediately sinks to the nozzle so your getting the thick stuff droppered in try tipping it just enough that any thick stuff doesn't make it into the cup.

 

Frog tape has worked for me fine and there's been no peeling but you need to let your initial coat harden (overnight) it may seem dry but if you rush you'll have problems

 

Undercoat - I use Vallejo Panzer Grey a lot its very very dark grey with a tint of blue, it looks black but isn't and generally looks good as a base and seems to work well especially given the amount of metal on the larger models. For me Black is too black as an undercoat and I'd recommend the same for white in using a very light grey as a colour guide mine is akin to GW celestial grey. 

 

Thinners - some people say water is ok but I'd recommend getting a proper air brush thinner it will mean less time cleaning and a proper thinner will let you use non air paints easier (I mix them in the cup medium 1st thinner then a dollop of brush paint).

 

Hope this helps

[jbaeza94]

holy cow, so i finally started again. life has been really busy, from training, and having to move over seas, a hurricane, and just work. but i finally have the time to start modelling and painting again. i think ill start writing again soon. so i decided to have my squads with mixed armor marks. i have 5 mk2, 10 mk3, 10 mk4, 15 mk7 (gw plastic marines) for my standard infantry. for my jump troops i have 5 vanguard, 5 mk2, and 5 mk5. i used a randomizer i found online and this is what it gave me:

 

Plasma/Combi Plasma

MK4

MK2

MK3IH

MK4

MK2

Plasma/Combi Plasma

MK7

MK3

MK7

MK7

MK3

Plasma/Combi Plasma

MK2

MK3

MK7

MK3IH

MK3

Melta/Combi Melta

MK4

MK3IH

MK4

MK7

MK7

Melta/Combi Melta

MK3IH

MK4

MK4

MK7

MK7

Melta/Combi Melta

MK3

MK7

MK4

MK7

MK3IH

Devastator/Lascannons

MK2

MK7

MK7

MK4

MK2

Devastator/Grav Cannons

MK7

MK7

MK4

MK4

MK7

Assault/Flamers

MK5

MK7

MK2

MK5

MK2

Assault/Flamers

MK7

MK2

MK2

MK5

MK2

 

The IH stands for iron hands. i bought a set of them to add some variety to the army. anyways, heres what i got for the first squad.

tomorrow i will be priming the minis and letting them dry all day. i dont want what happened to my rhinos to happen here too. day after i will be applying base coats and hopefully finishing them. ill try basing soon after that, depends how late it is. im going for a swamp look, so have water effects, various colors and lengths of grass, and ballast materials. itll be a learning process, but hopefully i figure it out. 

side note, its easier to cut the wrist off the bolter and make it fit nicely than it is the cut the wrist off the arm and make it fit nicely. starting the hole with the exacto blade before drilling get you a more centered bolter barrel hole. 

Edited January 12, 2017 by jbaeza94

[Guest]

Can't believe I never commented on this :(

 

Stop being lazy :P

[Bryan Blaire]

Not going to mix the armor marks amongst the individual Marines' suits?