Vairocanum Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The new version of the BA mortitat is brilliant! Looking forward to seeing the sculpted filigree. Wonderful source of inspiration as always! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magos Kasen Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Love the moritat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Jack Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Good afternoon chaps, A slowed pace of converting thanks to new school term, but I've resolved to cut out beer for two months so my energy levels should surge in due course, allowing me to get more done! ;) Doesn't help that I've also got my hands on some HH series books which is eating up more spare time. Currently reading Deliverance Lost which is great so far! Giving me a new respect for the XIXth Legion! I did manage to *mostly* finish the Blood Angels Moritat, which I am very happy with. Will eventually use him in game to lead an allied Blood Angels detachment alongside my Ultras. I also made a start to a Legion I have been putting off through unfamiliarity, the Night Lords... I came across the spare torsos from the Ashen Circle marines I cut apart to use the legs with my Space Wolves, and one torso seemed ridiculously appropriate for the VIIIth Legion. I filled in the arcane patterns and writing, and am pondering what sort of wargear and pose to give him. Rest assured there will be flayed skin adorning his armour... Ave Dominus Nox! The new version of the BA mortitat is brilliant! Looking forward to seeing the sculpted filigree. Wonderful source of inspiration as always! Glad you like Vairocanum! I ended up opting out of sculpting the filigree as I didn't want him to look too ostentatious. When I get around to making a legionnaire of the IIIrd no doubt it would be far more fitting! Love the moritat! Glad you approve Magos! He was a lot of fun to build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hushrong Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Moritat looks ace! Again, great use of bits and posing. Excited to see you take on a Night Lord. I'm drooling at the possibilities. Lighting claws, nostraman chainglaive, or maybe a flensing knife would look good in his hands and anything else really. What kind of head do you think you will use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovidius Incertus Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Cap'n: What kind of miliput are you mixing with your GS? You said about a 50:50 ratio of the two. I tried about a 30:70 mix of yellow/gray miliput to GS yesterday and it turned into a slimy mess. Basically couldn't work with it, much to my chagrin. I really wanted some sandable stuff to work with to reprofile some legs. Did I not wait long enough for it to set a bit before trying to work with it (and I mean I couldn't even get it to stick into gaps). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vairocanum Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 The details added to the moritat look great! Super excited to see your take on the Night Lords. I think lightning claws or a chain glaive could be cool, also depends if you're going on foot or jump pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kizzdougs Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 That Ashen Circle torso looks great! Can't wait to see what you do with it :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Jack Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Hey chaps, Decided I had been very lax in sharing tutorials, so I put together this fur pelt one for your perusal! I'll follow order of pics for stages; 1. Tools - watchmakers fine tweezers and 'medium' density chisel shaped colour shaper by Royal Sovereign Ltd. And water. Lots of water. 2. Mix enough GS to coat the premade 'skin' with approx 2/3mm of putty. The deeper the putty, the thicker the pelt. 3. Use the colour shaper to press the putty onto the skin. You can either leave to cure for 30mins or get straight to it. You can get a 'shaggier' coat if you wait a little before commencing work. 4. You will use the points of the tweezers to gently 'tease' the putty into individual tufts. 5. As you can see, in the early stages it looks quite shocking, but this is a fairly drawn out process, so be patient! At thid stage I'm really just mapping out direction of growth and will return later to gradually add more detail. The more effort you put in, the better it will look in the end. 6. You can start to see the finished product here. It can be quite a tedious task, so I'd urge you to take breaks when you become overwhelmed by monotony! Put the kettle on, eat a scotch egg, whatever takes your fancy. 7-9. The end result from both sides and the one clawed leg I had finished. The other front leg snapped whilst I was preparing the tutorial, which is a hazard when working with milliput, and the hind legs need claws added before I finish the fur. I will need to add material to the sides for realism, and add a head in due course, but this will be a separate tutorial for another day. As for the Night Lord, I'm playing around with some ideas, but will postpone work as I've got this Imperial Fists commission to finish for a very good client of mine! Moritat looks ace! Again, great use of bits and posing. Excited to see you take on a Night Lord. I'm drooling at the possibilities. Lighting claws, nostraman chainglaive, or maybe a flensing knife would look good in his hands and anything else really. What kind of head do you think you will use? I'm glad you like the Moritat! I'm tempted to go for Chainglaive, that's generally what everyone has recommended. Along with a crouched pose. Not 100% sure yet! Cap'n: What kind of miliput are you mixing with your GS? You said about a 50:50 ratio of the two. I tried about a 30:70 mix of yellow/gray miliput to GS yesterday and it turned into a slimy mess. Basically couldn't work with it, much to my chagrin. I really wanted some sandable stuff to work with to reprofile some legs. Did I not wait long enough for it to set a bit before trying to work with it (and I mean I couldn't even get it to stick into gaps). I use standard, which I think the same as yours. I mix 50:50 yellow:grey to 55:45 blue:yellow but don't use any water at this stage, as it really comes apart if you do. I find it totally sets after 36 hours, enough to sand in any case! Hope this helps. The details added to the moritat look great! Super excited to see your take on the Night Lords. I think lightning claws or a chain glaive could be cool, also depends if you're going on foot or jump pack. Thanks Vairocanum! I am tempted by a jump pack but I just did for Mortitat! Chainglaive seems the prevailing weapon choice, perhaps with an archaeotech pistol? I know they liked using very exotic and rare weaponry. That Ashen Circle torso looks great! Can't wait to see what you do with it :tu: The moment I saw it I knew it was the one... Hehe. I want to take my time with this one and do the Legion justice. One of the more challenging to get right imho! Loving your work as per usual! So shiny! :3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Jack Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Hey guys, Who'd have thought it was March already?! Back in the UK in 6 months (whoop!) where my work can start in earnest. Some of the chaps on Instagram are taking part in something called #geigoroff, which is a bit of fun really. You take Geigor Fellhand, and convert it to your hearts content! Only rule is that you must use his body and legs. Having seen some stellar attempts, I decided to give it a go, so without further ado; Hope you like! Will probably be posting Imperial Fists from here on out, as part of an ongoing commission, so stay tuned for plenty of VIIth Legion saturating my thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pearson73 Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Looking good, the simple style of the axes suits well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olis Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 That is pretty damned nifty, I'd say brother. A decent entry in the #geigoroff. Love the paired axes. :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamius Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 I love those conversions. Got inspired by your work ^^) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandMagnus Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Not usually a fan of Space puppies, but that is one exception that I like. Good conversion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betrayer41 Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 beautiful stuff, where are those axe heads from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Traitor Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 The conversions that you have in this thread are breathtaking, and this last non-Geiger model is specially inspired, I love the two axes take you've done on him! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vairocanum Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Awesome work as usual! The dual axes were a really great choice! Really gives off a berserker viking feel to the model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magos Kasen Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Your work is great as always, and the tutorials are very interesting. That's a new way of doing fur, I'll have to try it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Jack Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Hey guys, Having organised my recent resin crack into workable categories, I have been able to diversify my projects a little. The first pic for today is some pimped shoulderpads I made for Autek Mor, as I was dissatisfied with the plain existing ones. Now, I know the freehand cogs aren't perfect, but as goes my credo "practice makes perfect!", and as such I am willing to accept their imperfection. Surely I would not be welcome among the ranks of the IIIrd Legion! Secondly, made good progress on an Imperial Fists Apothecary using the recent limited Primus Medicae as a base. I need to fill a few gaps, and greenstuff some symbols and add cables, but he's mostly there! This guy is as part of a larger commission which I want to try and finish next week. I will post pics when that's all done :) Finally, I decided to start work on some more Death Guard for my ZM force. I appreciate that I'm cheating a little by using the forgeworld plaguemarine kit, but I will be altering the heads to look more mk2! Remember I will still be true-scaling and adding other details as well as pimping their bases, so please don't be too hard on me! ;) Let me know what you think guys! Always keen to hear your feedback! Looking good, the simple style of the axes suits well. Thanks Pearson73, I thought so too! I've seen some excellent conversions of Geigor out there, and wanted to make a unique version from my own, with 'space Viking' stamped all over it! That is pretty damned nifty, I'd say brother. A decent entry in the #geigoroff. Love the paired axes. :tu: Thanks Olis! I still think Adam Goldsmith's is the best around. He's superb at kitbashing. If you haven't already check him out on Instagram! I love those conversions. Got inspired by your work ^^) I'm very happy to gear that steamius! I really hope my projects can inspire others to embrace the hobby! Not usually a fan of Space puppies, but that is one exception that I like. Good conversion! Thanks GrandMagnus! I was worried he would be too bland! beautiful stuff, where are those axe heads from? Thanks betrayer41! They're from the mk3/mk4 weapons sets, with some alterations made, namely the removal of one of the blades from the axe. Looked suitable Space Wolf I thought! The conversions that you have in this thread are breathtaking, and this last non-Geiger model is specially inspired, I love the two axes take you've done on him! High praise indeed sir! I'm glad you like my crazy work! I always try and add realism and dynamism to my work, and hope I'm cutting out a distinctive 'style' for what I create! Awesome work as usual! The dual axes were a really great choice! Really gives off a berserker viking feel to the model. Thanks Vairocanum! It took a bit of fiddling around with parts to find something I was happy with :) Your work is great as always, and the tutorials are very interesting. That's a new way of doing fur, I'll have to try it out. Thanks Magos Kasen. I will try to add new tutorials fairly often, but am always looking for suggestions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vairocanum Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 The apothecary conversion looks ace! If 7 pages of quality work is anything to judge by the heavy flamers are going to look amazing. Great seeing some more nurgle stuff again, looking forward to seeing what kind of conversions you'll do to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Jack Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Hey guys, I posted a mk3 true-scaling tutorial on Instagram earlier, and thought I would share it on here also! I do have some other bits in the pipeline, but none that really warrant an upload on the B&C! I tried to make the tutorial as straightforward and easy to follow as possible, but please let me know if you feel it is lacking anything! 1. Tools; new scalpel, colour shapers, drill, modelling saw, 1mm copper wire (unpictured; greenstuff, yellow/grey milliput, superglue). 2.Carefully saw through the leg under the first panel at the back of the leg. Ensure you are aligned, and that you will follow through to shin, not trim or knee. 3. Clean up any excess plastic from cutting, and slightly bevel the edges. This is ensure a seamless finish with the modelling putty at the end. 4. Drill four holes at the centre of each new surface. Take your time to make sure they align properly. No worries if they are off, this is why we use copper wire, so we can adjust the angles and planes with ease! 5. Using a fair amount of glue, secure some 1mm copper wire into the upper holes. Allow some excess, so you can work out what sort of gap you want. 6. Measure and cut the copper wire (I usually allow a 3/4mm, occasionally 5mm gap in the shin) and glue lower leg. You can fine tune the position before the next stage. 7. Mix up a ball of 55:45 blue:yellow gs and one of 50:50 yellow:grey milliput and mix. I use slightly more milliput as it dries so hard, which is ideal for smoothing later. 8. Roll a 'snake' of the mixed material, thin enough to fit within the shin gap, and using a pointed colour shaper attach one end to the central copper wire. Then, gently wind this around the gap, so there is a nice foundation. Pack it in with the side of the shaper. 9. You will notice that there is more armour at the front, so you need to add more, using the same method to the shin. You need to pack it nicely, and have some overspill so when you come to cutting excess later, you dont have to go back and fill gaps. 10. You can see a 'cavity' at the back of the leg. This is required for stage 5. 11. I usually wait approx 36 hours for the putty to have completely dried before I proceed. It needs to have cured to get the smooth finish fit for painting. I clean up the edges of the shin plate, and add a piece of gs to the gap on each leg. 12. Using a chisel/diamond shaped colour shaper, I push the putty into the same shape at the panels above and below, trying my best to replicate the angles and thickness. 13. Once the gs has dried, I very carefully remove excess cured putty from the shin, and using the scalpel blade at a 90 degree angle to the armour, very gently affect a smooth, unblemished surface onto the shin. This requires patience, as a slight mistake will require a repetition of several steps to rectify. 14. I carefully trim down the gs to shape, and cut a small gap for piping. 15. I add two small balls to these gaps. Excess is fine. 16. Using a colour shaper I flatten these balls and then using a scalpel I carefully push horizontal lines into the wet gs. The longer you allow the gs to dry, the sharper the detail. I was busy today so I did this stage quickly, with fresh gs. Using a scalpel you can press the sides into the gap, which also gives a nice curved edge to the piping. Hey presto, you have a true-scaled pair of mk3 legs! C&C welcome! The apothecary conversion looks ace! If 7 pages of quality work is anything to judge by the heavy flamers are going to look amazing. Great seeing some more nurgle stuff again, looking forward to seeing what kind of conversions you'll do to them. Thanks Vairocanum! I'm looking forward to getting back into the Death Guard also! Will hopefully have pics to share soon! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hushrong Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 You make it look so easy! And so very tempting. If I wasn't a slow builder I would be all over this. Seeing as I will be playing more skirmish level battles with smaller teams that temptation is rising. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kizzdougs Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 The MkIII (and II) armour really lends itself to true-scaling. Very impressive work :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzilla Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Oh Its so tempting to recreate... Thank you for the tutorial, and as always - excellent work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Traitor Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Damn, I might have to give this a go... great tutorial by the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrautScientist Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Some rather wonderful converted characters here of late! And I really love how much each of them embodies the essence of their respective legions! Fantastic stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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