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That is one nice looking tin ead. Weathering makes it look proper orky

Thank you. I discovered that Skeleton Horde contrast works quite well on those corrugated iron parts. I put the odd spot of Reikland Fleshshade on them but I've officially started experimenting with Contrast paints now. :smile.:

 

Just because I felt like it I assembled my Dread Mob together since they are coming along quite nicely now.

 

 

 

I forgot to dust off my Stompa properly so apologies for that.

Man that is one impressive display of knackers, wish I was motivated enough to paint a stompa haha

In most cases a large brush is a great leveller but being foolish enough to go for camo patterns it took a while. I think I still have a Deff Dread and three more Kans left on my to-do list. Where I got after that I have no idea, I'll probably need to work on more sane aspects to my army like more troop choices. I think I've got a large slugga mob, a trukk mob and some grots and that's about it for troops. Maybe I will just jump into my cupboard and see what part of my pile of shame I bump into and then give that a go! :D

 

That is one nice looking tin ead. Weathering makes it look proper orky

Thank you. I discovered that Skeleton Horde contrast works quite well on those corrugated iron parts. I put the odd spot of Reikland Fleshshade on them but I've officially started experimenting with Contrast paints now. :smile.:

 

Just because I felt like it I assembled my Dread Mob together since they are coming along quite nicely now.

 

 

 

I forgot to dust off my Stompa properly so apologies for that.

 

 

A lovely mob you got there. I really need to finish painting my custom Stompa and do some photos. Not a fan of the actual models design so I built one from scratch using a ton of bits to look a bit more like an upscaled Mega Dread. Been working on him on and off for like four years though.

Thanks Mithril, I felt obliged to finish it since you said you wanted to see it completed! :teehee:

Seriously though it was a fun project even if I was working on a resin model. My super glue held the parts well even with my terrible lack of skill when it comes to pinning. As usual I need to varnish it, then I might have to play around with further weathering. I'm so glad I got the model before Forge World could have decided to axe it, I missed out on quite a few models on my to-do list. Hopefully my purchase will stop them from withdrawing it from sale like so many other kits. I would quite like another but with the expense, lack of storage space and the added stress of working with resin I think I'll resist for now. My Grand Pile of Shame also has a Deff Dread and three more Kans anyway. If I keep going I will have a dreadnought army to rival the Youtuber Kirioth's mighty dreadnought army. :tongue.:

Righto, I have an annoying habit of taking photos before weathering and forget to upload the post-weathering results. This time I actually remembered. Here's some photos for comparison.

 

W1

W2

W3

W4

 
 
I've not gone super over the top with it, hopefully enough to look like it's a bit ill-maintained rather than abandoned. :)

 

Thank you. The extra grime does make a difference in my opinion but now all my other Dreads and Kans look too clean in comparison. :teehee:

 

I'm hoping the rules will be interesting and effective too. The Kilkannon seems to be more powerful than I remember so that's a nice start. I haven't got the Psychic Awakening book for the Orks but I think it's unlikely that they remembered the Mega/Meka Dread in the Dread mob rules they included in there? Hopefully now the rules for Forge World units are rolled into the main studio that new Compendium will integrate all Forge World models into army lists better.

Thank you. The extra grime does make a difference in my opinion but now all my other Dreads and Kans look too clean in comparison. :teehee:

 

I'm hoping the rules will be interesting and effective too. The Kilkannon seems to be more powerful than I remember so that's a nice start. I haven't got the Psychic Awakening book for the Orks but I think it's unlikely that they remembered the Mega/Meka Dread in the Dread mob rules they included in there? Hopefully now the rules for Forge World units are rolled into the main studio that new Compendium will integrate all Forge World models into army lists better.

We can all hope so. I'd love to see the old Dread Mob where you could run a Meka Dread as the HQ so that you truly have a fully mechanized force. I like a good Big Mek as much as the next boy, but they always looks sort of out of place to me with all the kanz and dreads unless you want to throw them in a vehicle. Also hoping we see a return of the Meka Dread with their repair ability and a separate sheet for the Mega Dread. They still sell the core bodies separately.

 

That compendium should also hopefully have the Warboss on Bike rules which sound like they've been pushed to Legends form the main book.

I'd love to see either a Meka Dread or a Stompa of some description able to lead a Dread mob again. The Stompa earlier in this plog was converted to have a Kustom Force Field to follow the rules for the old Apocalypse Dread Mob. My Stompa always died before the KFF would prove useful. :p

 

Seeing the Warboss on bike entry return will be fantastic as well, since he's the biggest, scariest HQ entry I currently have.

 

I do find it odd that the Mega Dread and Meka Dread were consolidated into one unit entry when space marines seem to get separate entries for a Lieutenant with bolter or power sword or whatever. It just seems strangely uncoordinated. 

  • 1 month later...

Hey all! I pretty much missed Orktober but I've lately been working on a decent sized mob of *lotz* of Orks. They didn't seem as painful an experience as the 30 Slugga Boys I painted last time. Maybe I was more motivated, maybe it was the slightly fewer models but whatever the reason I only started flagging near the end when I started painting the skin. I usually paint skin first but since the first stages of painting are the areas that will be hard to get to, like clothes and guns. If I painted the skin before I glued the arms on I'd have to try and match the skin tones for every Ork in the squad, and Mork knows I don't want to do it that way!

 

shootas

Shootas2

Shootas3

 
As usual, you can click on the images to view larger pictures. :)
 

I had quite a lot of hassle getting the arms to line up with the torsos, heads and even the base getting in the way of the gun arms when I tried to attach them. I had to break a few Orks apart to reassemble them (lucky for me the poly cement I used before was mainly rubbish). I ended up 2 models short in the squad because I couldn't make the last two pair of arms fit at all so I gave up on the last two. Even the ones that I did fit the arms on often had them slightly wrong, as if the shoulder joint is a few mm down from where it should be. I couldn't do much about it at that point though so I moved on.

 

I was a bit lazy with these guys, I did grill the gun barrels but I left a few mould lines unscraped and combining that with the slightly misplaced arms I am just going to consider them just filler on the tabletop rather than me trying to push my painting further. That doesn't mean I'm not happy with them, just aware I could have gone those extra steps to get those mould lines sorted.

 

As for the next project? I'm going Space Marine next. I have a Contemptor Dreadnought that's been sitting around since about 2012-13ish that's been sitting around waiting to be built. When I come back to Orks it might be my last Battlewagon, a Deff Dread or a Killa Kan unit. I have had my boxes of Stormboyz staring at me though... My Ork pile of shame is petty big so there is plenty to do, including the large unit of Slugga Boyz but they will have to wait, I only paint mobs of 10+ Ork Mobs when I've got some hobby momentum and forgotten how dull the basic Ork mobs can be. :tongue.:

Edited by Magos Takatus

Well done on pushing through and getting the unit done, (we all know boyz or gretchin are the hard work units to paint)

I found if shoota boyz arms were a bit off I would use one of those steel shoulder plates to hide the gap :wink: ...

 

I like the camo scheme you got going there :wub:

Cheers, Mithril

 

P.S. you might want to change your title on the thread... your not Flame boy anymore...gee that was a long time ago :rolleyes:

Thanks for the reply, in truth I can't find an option to re-name my blog. Could you tell me how? I feel Gortoof isn't getting enough recognition.

 

The camo cheme isn't really of my own devising, well, not entirely. I saw it as a swatch in the 2nd edition Ork codex and added the grey urban camo afterwards. I was once toying with the idea of an Imperial Guard regiment with yellow armour and grey fatigues that never materialised and my Orks just partly borrowed the colour scheme.

 

Good idea about the shoulder plates, I did cover up two ork shoulders like that but ran out of them in my bits box. I'm sure I can find more somewhere though. :)

To change your Main Title, you need to do a "Full edit" of your initial post of the thread... scroll up to the heading and it will appear to be able to Edited when you do that  :wink:

 

that colour swatch does sound cool for a guard regiment too :wub:  glad you did it with the grey additions :thumbsup:

 

cheers, Mithril

Edited by mithrilforge

Yeah, I love the Mega Dread It's interesting that they appear to have separated the Mega Dread and Meka Dread entries in the new Forge World Book. I guess I kinda need that book. If I ever get working on my Eldar I'll need it for the Phoenix bomber too.

 

Thanks for the instruction to change the title, hopefully it will be appropriate. Perhaps I should get hold of a few Cadians to see how that colour scheme would have looked. The tan colour would have been a bit more yellow and wouldn't have included the stripes but the rest would have been pretty similar.

 

I have still got a chunky Ork pile of shame so expect more updates periodically. :)

Found it :) some great work here and very gritty looking orks! Awesome :)

 

The separation of the meka and mega dread goes back to imperial armour 8. They used to be hq and heavy support choices respectively but when they stopped selling the meka dread weapons they mashed the two together in 8th. Glad the distinction is back :)

  • 1 year later...

Hello fellow Warbosses! I have an update, another one of Gortoof's lads who is currently lacking a name. 

 

MEGAFACE

WBfront

WBside

WBside

 
 
I got the Scale 75 Orc paint set recently and I was looking for an excuse to use it, plus my friends were working on their own Mega Armour Warbosses so I scooped one off of Ebay to paint up myself. I loved painting this model until the camo came along. I still have a lot more tiger stripes to paint before I am finished with Orks though.
 
I have decided I am a convert of oil and enamel paints now after trying out Streaking Grime and Scale 75 soilworks. 
 
What is your opinion on these fine gents? Is the almost luminous skin tone too vivid for my army, should I tone it down?
 
As always, click on the images for a closer view. :)
 
I've been painting a lot of random stuff recently from Blood Bowl teams to Krieg Kill teams so my army projects have been on the backburner. I'm hoping 2022 will contain a healthy balance of army output and new model exploration and learning. 

I can help with that. https://scale75.com/en/fantasy-games-range/187-orcs-and-goblins.html

 

Vallejo also produce an orc paint set but I haven't tried that yet. https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/game-color-paint-sets/51336-game-color-set-orcs-goblins-17ml

 

Finally Green Stuff World produce their own set. https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/game-color-paint-sets/51336-game-color-set-orcs-goblins-17ml

 

My Orks tend to be a lot less saturated so I will probably use them less for Ork's skin and more for other projects but some of those bright greens in the Scale 75 are really punchy, plus the blue/green and the fleshy colour look really useful too. 

 

The paint set required a bit of adjustment to my usual technique though. It advises you start with the brightest highlights and shade down from there. It worked out pretty well from what I could tell.

I tend to like the more vibrant and 'bright' skin tones as a good contrast to what is mostly dark and drab.

 

What would be the equivalent in GW paints? I think warp lightning contrast is fairly bright too but I havent tried it

Edited by Malakithe

The main colour on the face was Slimer Greeen which is between Warpstone Glow and Moot Green. I shaded the colour down with glazes of darker greens until I got to the greens that were darker than Caliban Green.

 

I can't say anything about Warp Lightning as I don't widely use contrast paints yet.

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