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NTaW's Thokt Dynasty


NTaW

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It looks pretty good. I don't have any good feedback right now. If it was me I would think about maybe doing some Necron hieroglyphs. But then I am really into that sort of thing.

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I am as well, I'm just keeping it to circuitry for the sake of being at least somewhat generic since I plan to upload this to Thingiverse when I'm done. Easy enough for someone to use their likely copious amounts of unused decals that came with their various kits plus I really am learning as I go and this is the path of least resistance at the moment :lol:

 

I added lights to all wall ends (some to most will be covered by doorways) and I figured out how to get my embedded circuitry design into the corners while also getting a clean slice for printing (there were several agonizing hundredths of a millimetre nudges to get it just right) but I think I'm confident enough with the results that I can start printing more than just flat tiles without issue.

 

Pics of the assembled pieces. Mind the occasional overlapped or random line, it doesn't show up in the layer view of the object before printing and represents all the various things I've smashed together to get through the creation process (mostly fixing mistakes :lol:).

 

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I've gotten the main shapes of the doorways to the point where I need to print and test them but it will be a few days before I have wall tiles to test them with. The doors slot into the frame, which should sit nicely in place given the bottom is notched to sit flush with the tile below but this is where the test printing comes into play. Small doorways are 34mm at the bottom and large will be 82; the idea there allowing the base size just under to sit in the doorway (appendages allowing).

 

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I'm still undecided on the doors/potentially force fields. I really could just get transluscent blue PLA and leave them as rectangles but I feel like I should have a solid option with decoration. When it comes to the decoration I feel like maybe I should do something different than the existing circuitry. As I type this I'm having the idea of using my dice designs in some way. Added bonus there could be a variety of symbols for doors. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter, or the shape of the doors so far?

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sometimes the KISS method works for the best... the simple energy field feels like a good option for now, perhaps later on after you have finished a tables worth and played on it, you/your mates will have a good idea of what works and doesn't work and you could explore more "Grander" options of things like doorways,new wall sections etc.... don't get too far ahead of yourself (I know I would if I had all that stuff at my disposal :sweat: )

Get the basics done and test it out first...then make your Grand Dynasty come to life :wub:

 

stuff looks great so far!

Cheers, Mithril 

 

++EDIT++

 

Your table screams Necron Killteam to me 

Edited by Mumeishi
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You're right, mithril. The more I think about patterns the more I just want a plain block of translucent (or close enough to it) blue to drop in but I gotta have the tiles first.

 

Speaking of.

 

First wall tile printed, mostly successfully. I'll have to adjust this tile and double check others for an alignment issue but it's not very noticeable. The circuitry printed well so I'm happy about that.

 

49910611958_300e137381_c.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just printing and planning over here. I have 16/64 tiles printed now :teehee:

 

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The planning refers to how I'm going to paint all these new Necron models coming out soon! Since all the new models look to have a worn/damaged look to them they will have a separate scheme to my existing collection and I've always wanted to do a cool white/marble themed army so this is gunna be it. I plan on using contrast paints for my base layers. Main armour will be white marble with grey veins, exposed metal joints and such still silver. Weapons will remain black but actually have some highlighting. I'm switching to talassar blue (I think) for the energy colour but still planning on some layering with blue and white after that. Noctilith will be marbled based off terradon turquoise, though I will be doing the veins on the white with a brush and the noctilith will be stippled with sponge and plastic wrap. 

 

Still trying to figure stuff out and may buy some paints to test on one of my unpainted Warriors. Definitely going to be a more time consuming process than the current approach but hopefully I'll catch some of those fancy new details and end up with something real good looking. I can't wait to get my hands on that new Monolith. I haven't been this excited about a vehicle kit (or any kit..?) since the plastic Land Raider was released during 3rd (?) edition :lol:

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Great to hear you have a secondary colour scheme sorted already :thumbsup:

question though, your tiles, the corridors...will they fit all those new monstrous sized necron units?..

 

Can't wait to see your new scheme on a model (I started repainting all my units to be Novokh so i'm ready for the new stuff)… might start a thread today...

 

Cheers, Mithril

Edited by Mumeishi
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Oh my, I totally forgot to respond here *smacks forehead

 

Once I get to making them, large doors narrow that down to just big enough for an 80mm bases and small doors allow 32mm bases. Without a door large openings are 101.6mm and small ones 50.8mm. There is a definite intent on restricting model movement and size as well as style of engagement since I have other tables in the works for more general styles of engagement, like a 6x4 surface of the planet housing this tomb.

 

I haven't been able to get any painting done for a while but once I do have something new to show off it will at least be photographed better! I'm happy to say that I've stepped up my game on that front, always thinking of people's comments here for better pics.

 

I found this while browsing the internet and it seemed perfect for the job. Just finished printing this morning:

 

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Even just holding a flashlight in hand while excited to try it out this is the (cropped) image my efforts yielded:

 

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So it's safe to say I'll be standardizing the lighting as best I can (likely more printed objects and rubber bands :laugh.:) and doing proper shots of my collection. Larger models will be a trick still but I'll make it work. 

Edited by NTaW
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Right?? Same phone I've been using for the last couple years just not held in my shaky hands :lol: I know the holder is a little on the fancy side of things but anything that keeps your camera steady would work as well I'm sure. The light I just grabbed off the handlebars of my bicycle and held over my head and you can see it's just a piece of white paper behind so nothing fancy on that end. Multiple light angles would yield a  better result I'm sure, likely I'll build a whitebox (maybe out of white foamcore) to bounce light back at the model instead of hitting it directly. I could also experiment with backdrops held in place by the arm currently holding the paper for fun.

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Well well look who's printing off everything he can think of :laugh.:

yes much better shots and as you said some more lighting and you'll be all set :thumbsup:

 

Cheers, Mithril

Edited by Mumeishi
emoji fails clean up
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  • 2 weeks later...

Say hello to the Tomb Mortalis in real life! It's a 42x30" playing space, think I'll miss the 2" on the new minimum table size for small games?

 

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I'm thinking of slapping down some magnetic primer on my gaming table top and hitting the bottom of these with flat fridge magnets so they don't skid around at the slightest bump. I feel like I'll be focusing on getting this (and maybe my other table) painted and ready for the new edition. Somehow I feel like I'll be able to host the odd game at my home before being able to go out to a store for a match. Added bonus I get to put off painting models a bit longer :lol:

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just WOW :wub:

oh I so cannot wait to see this painted!!, you know I died a little on the inside for you when you said "42" x 30 … I was like oh man...:facepalm:

 

but I think you'll get over it right :wink:

well done on the terrain bud, it looks great!

 

Cheers, Mithril

Edited by Mumeishi
emoji fails clean up
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Looks phenomenal, NTaW! The multicolor is throwing me off a bit but I suppose that is what paint is for! (Btw, use something other than GW spray—it will sink right in and you will have no more paint after about 2 minutes.)

 

I can’t wait to get my mitts on a printer and make some for myself! You did not have to make it easy to find, but thank you for making it easy. ;)

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you know I died a little on the inside for you when you said "42" x 30 … I was like oh man :pinch: ...

 

I've honestly contemplated printing 3x1 blank floor tile rows to add the 2" back in somehow :lol: Just think happy thoughts (that are divisible by 6 :facepalm: ).

 

 

(Btw, use something other than GW spray—it will sink right in and you will have no more paint after about 2 minutes.)

 

I was thinking of using automotive primer but was also contemplating using something a bit thicker. I used Army Painter primer (happened to have it on hand) on a lightsaber that I made for my kid and it worked OK but I did have to hit it with enough layers that I'd rather pay $10 or less a can. I'll look more into the thicker options after hearing this, thanks! :tu:

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For non-metallics, I usually just use Krylon.  I get it from Walmart or a hardware store for like $3 a can and it covers well and goes on smooth and thin enough that I haven't had a problem with it.  I don't know if that's available up north or not, though.  I've used their white, black, gray, and a few others and never had an issue with it.  It's cheap enough that I don't mind using it on bigger projects (I got some ratty looking bookshelves for free, just threw some support brackets on and sprayed the whole thing black, looks like new, normal shelves).  That's what I would recommend unless you want a metallic.  That's much harder to find a quality option for.

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Rustoleum 2x primer is what I've been using on my models for a few years, good coverage and smooth. I've tried lots of different primers thru the years and this one, knock on wood, hasn't damaged any models I've sprayed. Either way I can't wait to see how they turn out. As for auto primer, be very careful with it, check the chemicals. Some will eat this kinda plastic. Edited by Dread
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Krylon is pretty good, I used it on a Hard Resin/Plastic type Cosplay sword and it took to it well, as Tyriks says it's a cheaper paint but it's definitely not nasty.

a note on that, put the can in hot water for ten minutes before you shake n spray and it'll go on sweet as...

I'd avoid auto primer on your printed stuff as well....just to be safe :sweat:

 

Cheers, Mithril

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I appreciate the suggestions! :tu:

 

The automotive primer I was thinking of is safe on plastics but it's good to keep in mind that some will destroy plastic. This stuff is what I used to use on Finecast (also plastic) and my friends used to use on Forgeworld back when they still suggested using non-Citadel products. It's pretty cheap but apparently it only comes in grey or red and I've found it's easier to paint metallic colours over black. I guess I could prime grey then paintbrush it all black since I will have to paint the black again anyway, but they're both the same price so I'll probably get more Rust-oleum sicne it comes in black. Krylon is weirdly expensive and hard to find in Canada but Rust-oleum is everywhere, maybe Tremclad would be an option as well?

 

This stuff comes highly recommended from 3d printing groups but I'll be damned if I can find it anywhere.

 

EDIT: Huge picture.

 

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It's a shame all my paint cans went to crap otherwise I'd be showing off tiles with each primer since I have/had all the options we're talking about (except Krylon, which is somehow more expensive than Citadel for primers? /shrugs). Priming soon™! :laugh.:

Edited by NTaW
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Well... Whatever primer you get that's good for this stuff, I can't wait to see a basecoat on it at least!

*terrain projects must be infectious at the moment , I dug out an Imperial gate I was building from the years old Imperial terrain and a shrine of the aquila box

...it must be nigh on 5-6 years? ago I was doing this :sweat:  anyways I'm working on that now as well as my Necrons so I have new terrain ready for 9th Ed...

so i'm sourcing undercoat sprays at the moment as well...GW undercoat here in Oz is like $30 a can....3rd party paints are pretty much the go to now unless your well heeled :ermm:  or really want GW stuff.

good luck getting paint for your terrain bud!

 

Cheers, Mithril

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  • 2 months later...

Hey, thanks QuarterPounder :tu:

 

While I haven't had much any time to paint at home I did ferry in the 35 Tomb Mortalis pieces to work and got them all primed black. It only took four and a half cans of primer :sweat: could probably just about kill that fifth can touching the odd spot up too since there's so many tiles. I'll get it all together hopefully soon and get you that pic you've been waiting so long for mithril, I have some business washing Pylons in the basement too.

Edited by NTaW
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I'm late to the party but it sure is a great thread; a paint scheme I love, 3d printing, necrons, a photobooth. Keep them coming!

 

I have a lot of trouble getting the contrast right on pictures of very dark models. I think I found the right spot in my house to get good ones, but I'm surprised you made it work so well with a bright light in front of a white screen. Mine came out almost pitch black. Might be caused by my phone's camera autoleveling, do you have control over yours?

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Thanks Miek! :tu:

 

In my kitchen I have a good light over the table and I held two bike lights (quite bright LEDs) on it as well. I admit I'm completely uneducated when it comes to cameras; I turn the flash off, focus (until it looks good), then tap the capture button you know what I use a voice command to take the pic so I don't shake me setup. I think what changed the game so much for me was taking the phone out of my shaky hands and putting on the mount I printed (which could be anything that holds a phone solid) and lighting it like the sun was in my immediate possession. Oh also I don't have yellowed/warm lightbulbs in my kitchen just the whiter/cool bulbs. Hope that helps somehow!

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