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Quest for the Golden Demon - What's to Come


LunchBox

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For the gold, I switched my recipe to:

 

Base coat of GW Foundation Taupset Ochre

Wash with Bestial Brown

Snakebite Leather

Taupset Ochre

Leprous Brown (Vallejo has Scrofulous Brown, or Gold-Brown)

Bleached Bone

Ivory

 

I found that glazes really blend into the Foundation paint very well, and allowed me to blend everything else in very smoothly. The down-side is that there are no more dark reflections, and it turned out a bit too bright. I may try to add my charcoal wash back in...we'll see.

 

As for the 2-handed sword, I stole the idea from Ap0k and his Berzerkers. I used the left gunner arm from the rhino sprue, and a standard bolter arm from the tactical sprue...of course, for this you must choose the arm that is bent the most, as I think there are 3 differently posed arms. However, none of this will really help you for a Terminator. I rarely work with termies, so I can't be of much help. It will probably be more difficult, especially if you can't hide the offset with shoulder pads. I wish I could help more.

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For the gold, I switched my recipe to:

 

Base coat of GW Foundation Taupset Ochre

Wash with Bestial Brown

Snakebite Leather

Taupset Ochre

Leprous Brown (Vallejo has Scrofulous Brown, or Gold-Brown)

Bleached Bone

Ivory

 

I found that glazes really blend into the Foundation paint very well, and allowed me to blend everything else in very smoothly. The down-side is that there are no more dark reflections, and it turned out a bit too bright. I may try to add my charcoal wash back in...we'll see.

 

Right now I have a good SE recipe, but not for regular NMM (Scorched Brown base to cover black, Vomit Brown over top, Snakebite Leather horizon and grnd w/ SL and Vomit Brown mix for the lower ground reflections to represent luminousity. then sunburst yellow, vomit brown mix and whites mixed in to highlight.. I use liquitex color Titanium White).

 

This should help immensely. I hadn't thought of using Tausept Ochre, I'm not so familiar with foundation paints.. Do you just glaze the separate colors on, or do you do intermediate mixes thereof?

 

My hardest problem is figuring out what to reflect and where to put the hard highlights on a model with no real hard horizon line reflection. I suppose compositionally, it's where the model will 'pop' from all angles, without looking nonsensical. Edges always reflect the most light, so that's the biggie.. but everything else, like where to add gobs of shadow, I have a hard time. I'll just have to keep studying. Color theory and other mechanical parts of art like this are the most challenging...

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For the gold, I switched my recipe to:

 

Base coat of GW Foundation Taupset Ochre

Wash with Bestial Brown

Snakebite Leather

Taupset Ochre

Leprous Brown (Vallejo has Scrofulous Brown, or Gold-Brown)

Bleached Bone

Ivory

 

I found that glazes really blend into the Foundation paint very well, and allowed me to blend everything else in very smoothly. The down-side is that there are no more dark reflections, and it turned out a bit too bright. I may try to add my charcoal wash back in...we'll see.

 

Right now I have a good SE recipe, but not for regular NMM (Scorched Brown base to cover black, Vomit Brown over top, Snakebite Leather horizon and grnd w/ SL and Vomit Brown mix for the lower ground reflections to represent luminousity. then sunburst yellow, vomit brown mix and whites mixed in to highlight.. I use liquitex color Titanium White).

 

This should help immensely. I hadn't thought of using Tausept Ochre, I'm not so familiar with foundation paints.. Do you just glaze the separate colors on, or do you do intermediate mixes thereof?

 

My hardest problem is figuring out what to reflect and where to put the hard highlights on a model with no real hard horizon line reflection. I suppose compositionally, it's where the model will 'pop' from all angles, without looking nonsensical. Edges always reflect the most light, so that's the biggie.. but everything else, like where to add gobs of shadow, I have a hard time. I'll just have to keep studying. Color theory and other mechanical parts of art like this are the most challenging...

 

I've never studied any of that...not that I'm the best painter in the world...but I do look at objects as they are...not as my eyes tell me they are. It's hard to do, but eventually you can retrain yourself to see things that way.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/starksback-1.jpg

 

In this pack, I chose the obvious highlights for gold, reflecting more toward the bottom. But, I also decided that the curve of the beak would catch some light as well, so I added thin little stripes of reflection on them. For the colors, I use successive glazes, to build on the color I'm going over, but I also have a huge selection of paints at my disposal. Just remember that things look differently to you, than they do to us. Just like other people's food usually seems better...we are to critical f our own work to see it for what it is sometimes.

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im talking chaos arms lol i dont have enough money to buy cc terminators aswell....

im only 14!! lol and just bought a chaos army deal!!!!

 

lunch box dont worry but i wil post the finished product so you can see and maybe i can help other people with this idea aswell ^^

 

I'm 1 above that mate. Guess what i did. I got a job at an independent stockist and get it at retail. :D

Don't hate me.

 

M

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This is a fun thread to look and read though :)

 

The progress is great. The NMM is better than anything I could ever do. The backpack skull looks like its made of crystal, awesome effect. The grey is good but I still think there needs to be a darker contrast blend to the joints. I don't know if its the pics but it seems like you could do juuuuust a little more with the grey. It needs a very slight pop, if that makes any sense. On the backpack shot you have it just right. The knees and arms seems like they need that same treatment. :P

 

The sword is just about perfect, the I love the movement. The choice of a purple background with the red crystal was really smartly done on the winged pad. The feathers need just a slightly more blended contrast towards the make main wing bone, otherwise very sharp :yes:

 

I'm very impressed. Great work!

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I've never studied any of that...not that I'm the best painter in the world...but I do look at objects as they are...not as my eyes tell me they are. It's hard to do, but eventually you can retrain yourself to see things that way. Just remember that things look differently to you, than they do to us. Just like other people's food usually seems better...we are to critical f our own work to see it for what it is sometimes.

 

Oi, you said it. Everyone fawns over my art and all I can see is that the angle of the man's sternocleidomastoid is off or something of that nature.. I'm very overly critical of my own stuff, very restless when it comes to my pieces.

 

I see objects as they are very much so, it's beaten into my head with a large hammer in school -laugh- but I don't have much gold to use as a reference :[. The problem with minis is that they are a three dimensional composition, colored with a 2-dimensional medium. That 2-D medium is used to make the mini 'pop' so to speak, and this is what Demon judges are looking for if I'm not mistaken. A figure could be converted and posed amazingly, dynamic as all hell -- take away that crisp, clean paint job that makes each edge and piece jump out at you and it loses it's charm (this also works backwards).

 

Classes on color theory and two dimensional design make me see things in a very analytical fashion.. I can't even look at a coke can anymore without trying to decipher how the light is bouncing off of it and the condensation, making certain sheens and highlights on the cylindrical shape. It's madness I tell you.

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I've never studied any of that...not that I'm the best painter in the world...but I do look at objects as they are...not as my eyes tell me they are. It's hard to do, but eventually you can retrain yourself to see things that way. Just remember that things look differently to you, than they do to us. Just like other people's food usually seems better...we are to critical f our own work to see it for what it is sometimes.

 

Oi, you said it. Everyone fawns over my art and all I can see is that the angle of the man's sternocleidomastoid is off or something of that nature.. I'm very overly critical of my own stuff, very restless when it comes to my pieces.

 

I see objects as they are very much so, it's beaten into my head with a large hammer in school -laugh- but I don't have much gold to use as a reference :[. The problem with minis is that they are a three dimensional composition, colored with a 2-dimensional medium. That 2-D medium is used to make the mini 'pop' so to speak, and this is what Demon judges are looking for if I'm not mistaken. A figure could be converted and posed amazingly, dynamic as all hell -- take away that crisp, clean paint job that makes each edge and piece jump out at you and it loses it's charm (this also works backwards).

 

Classes on color theory and two dimensional design make me see things in a very analytical fashion.. I can't even look at a coke can anymore without trying to decipher how the light is bouncing off of it and the condensation, making certain sheens and highlights on the cylindrical shape. It's madness I tell you.

 

Then you understand what I'm talking about. My wife will catch me staring at something, and she knows at this point what I'm doing. I've caught myself looking at a metal wall decoration for over 20 minutes before.

 

In other news, I'm trying a new technique that I think may be a breakthrough in speeding up my painting. I don't know what it's called, but if I had to name it, I would call it "non-linear color progression" :teehee: . Normally, I prime, shade, then build the highlights with successive glazes; some of which are redundant. With this...thing that I've stumbled upon, I shade some areas, but not all. I then apply the brightest highlights, then work in the middle wherever it needs it...then go back and shade a bit more. I'm finding that half my colors were already there...that I would have shaded over, and rebuilt. I just painted a leg in 30 minutes...that's about a 500% increase in efficiency, as it would have taken between 2-3 hours per leg. Part of the problem I'm facing, is that my color choice is gray. When glazes of blue, or red are applied, the stray pigment particles that bunch together don't stick out much at all. With grays, the white particles condense onto airborne particles, creating a tiny little fuzz-dot, requiring me to wet blend the edges to remove/prevent tide lines and/or stray pigment fuzz-dots. This is also why I dust my mini's before I start painting, even if I just sat down for a few minutes to reply to a post on the B&C.

 

Back to work I go!

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LunchBox:

 

Yeah, stray cat hair and lint happens to be my enemy numero uno. I keep a canister of that compressed air duster I use on my computer near my minis also.

 

The technique you have stumbled upon is my technique for 2-D painting.. or at least, I'm a little tired, so I think I read it right. I start always with a very flat, 5 Saturation rating base coat that I build up to pure tube brilliance (eg: The blinding red of Cadmium!) Then I start tinting/toning/resaturating/shading and what have you, and Put these shadows in the edges with subtle glazes. Then I use an intermediate color between the base coat and the tint, usually applied in glazes, and build up the transitions to the implied recesses of the figure. Of course, many things shade differently (for instance, human skin is more saturated in the middle between the light and the dark and objects will reflect objects around it, creating a brighter hue) so you must take care.

 

For example:

 

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f13/disturbedbeaver/100_1570.jpg

 

You can see where I've done this here, as it's still WIP.

 

For minis you could skip the subtle glazes, I'm talking 18x24 paintings here. I use the same techniques for banner flatwork and the like, except on a miniature I usually use a very small ratio of water to paint for freehand, since it's so incredibly tiny.

 

My answer to wet blending may require the use of magnification tools, but I am known to stipple my transitions.. if done properly and patiently, it can produce an interesting effect, it makes the human mind do all the blending!

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So this is what you paint...hmmm...you're a deeply disturbed chickadee, aren't you...

 

I can be, indeed. :teehee:

 

It's sort of a way i vent frustrations from work... working in retail/cust service is a bitch on my brain, so this is how I let it out.

 

That's the side panel to my computer I'm working on. Khorne themed. Going to have a mini diorama built on top.

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I totally understand what you're getting at LunchBox, with the staring. When I started warhammer (I made terrain a lot back then) when I was in a car I would stare out to the curbs, or hills etc and see how things were textured. It gets a little annoying after a while.

 

M

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I totally understand what you're getting at LunchBox, with the staring. When I started warhammer (I made terrain a lot back then) when I was in a car I would stare out to the curbs, or hills etc and see how things were textured. It gets a little annoying after a while.

 

M

 

Imagine that, but staring at your significant other and breaking his/her body down into basic shapes, polygonal forms, and finally muscle shapes. Imagine every time he moves, seeing a small gestural skeleton move with him. I've been mutated in me' brainmeats!

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Awesome art Berzerker! Post some more sometime! :D

 

Hey man, I think you need to be preparing to deal with your little rascals on Tuesday! ;) Just kidding now paint! lol

 

Actually, I don't get released to go back to screwel until Thursday. But today, the wife has ordered me to paint.

 

If I must...I must...

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Looking really good Lunchbox, Starks look really nice, the sword is perfect :D My only negative crit. would be the freehand on the tabard which look sorta blocky in the pics. Keep it up Mate.

 

Now only if I could finish one model from my squad...

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Looking good mate! You better name a marine after me! :) Just playing. Can't wait to see the squad on the table as well!

 

 

*I said there was a Chaplain to come... :)

 

 

I green-stuffed for a few hours today...and I still have his arms to GS...wait 'til you see this thing... I might try to post a teaser pic tonight. :)

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Okay...being the shameless attention-whore that I am...

 

Keep in mind this is still VERY WIP. I'm really proud of the custom greaves, I actually cut out a mock-up piece of paper in the shape I needed, and used it as a template for the design. I rolled the gs out flat, cut it into that shape, then added the detail. After they were mostly cured, I peeled them off my painting tile, and glued them on. I still have A LOT of gs'ing to do tomorrow, and some other stuff. I've redone his respirator a few times, and I may peel this one off and try again. Besides the green stuffing, I still have tubing, iconography, a tabard, and who know's what else to come.

 

Here he is...my Chaplain...dunno what to call him though...hehehe

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/mcawip.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/mcawiplegs.jpg

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