BrotherSeumas Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 incredible work i might have to commission something :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Sha'son Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 SCORE!!! thank you for the tip... BTW are you still going to do your tutorial on Truescaling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamenter Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 SCORE!!! thank you for the tip... BTW are you still going to do your tutorial on Truescaling? Just want to get a few commissions done and dusted first, but it'll be fairly soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Tuditanus Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 It's, as you said, an extension of GW's proportions being off already. On a smaller scale, they work because they're not big enough to notice casually. But when you enlarge them the size of say.. the groin, in relation to the size of the shin area highlights the flaws already inherent in GW's issues. To be honest, you could do truescale. And even if you didn't want to, some attention to proportion/scale (rather than keeping faithful to the skewed metrics GW uses) might better your miniatures overall, or at least make them more readily likable to some. That, in turn, might help your sales on your commissions. Simply enough, I would thin the groin (make it not as bulky, but the width form side to side and length top to bottom are ok), give the abdomen area a little less length and watch that it stays one consistent length from groin to torso (having watch the work of some of my friends and learned, I know this can be VERY tricky.. shortening it will help!), and give the shins a little more heighth.. In hindsight examining, the thighs themselves I think might be just fine if the shins were a bit longer... Say add a 1-2mm spacer in it. That might even help alleviate (in small increments) some of the critique I and others have posted. One thing I have learned in the mathematics and other courses i've taken (and in the process of trying to replicate power armor life sized, but wearable) is that GW's proportions for the miniatures work only at the heroic/28mm scale. If you make them smaller, they work even better, but detail is lost. You increase the scale, and there is more mass/surface area, the problems with the size/scale of the individual parts come out.. Thigh bone doesn't match up with shin, abdomen is off size to chest and/or groin, etc.. I hope maybe, if nothing else, it's inspired you to continue. No matter personal/technical differences, I think you have a good start! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Kael Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Brilliant stuff mate. That assault marine with the thunder hammer is just amazing. Captain Kael :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Mike Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 ......wow. These are incredible. There is no other word for it. Be interesting to see how truescale *gulp* Terminators come out. *swoon* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamenter Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 It's, as you said, an extension of GW's proportions being off already. On a smaller scale, they work because they're not big enough to notice casually. But when you enlarge them the size of say.. the groin, in relation to the size of the shin area highlights the flaws already inherent in GW's issues. To be honest, you could do truescale. And even if you didn't want to, some attention to proportion/scale (rather than keeping faithful to the skewed metrics GW uses) might better your miniatures overall, or at least make them more readily likable to some. That, in turn, might help your sales on your commissions. Simply enough, I would thin the groin (make it not as bulky, but the width form side to side and length top to bottom are ok), give the abdomen area a little less length and watch that it stays one consistent length from groin to torso (having watch the work of some of my friends and learned, I know this can be VERY tricky.. shortening it will help!), and give the shins a little more heighth.. In hindsight examining, the thighs themselves I think might be just fine if the shins were a bit longer... Say add a 1-2mm spacer in it. That might even help alleviate (in small increments) some of the critique I and others have posted. One thing I have learned in the mathematics and other courses i've taken (and in the process of trying to replicate power armor life sized, but wearable) is that GW's proportions for the miniatures work only at the heroic/28mm scale. If you make them smaller, they work even better, but detail is lost. You increase the scale, and there is more mass/surface area, the problems with the size/scale of the individual parts come out.. Thigh bone doesn't match up with shin, abdomen is off size to chest and/or groin, etc.. I hope maybe, if nothing else, it's inspired you to continue. No matter personal/technical differences, I think you have a good start! Thanks. Very well explained. You've actually swayed me. I think a little more experimentation is called for. I'm not too concerned by "true" proportion as I'm a fan of heroic/28mm scale, but you're right about how it becomes more of an issue as scale increases. I'll work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Toddius Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Pure insanity and creativity mixed with a shot of whiskey. I've watched this thread and had to wipe my chin a couple times from the drool. The commander and assault marine are pure win and the tactical squad is win x10 more. Loving everything here. Keep going bro. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Silent Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Great conversions! And lovely clean GS-work. :tu: You know, the more I see the True/Acutal Scale marines with Terminator arms and legs, the more I am swayed to try them... (Formerly I would only consider using SM PA parts for true scale PA) How will you be handling the Terminators? It seems to me that they would need to be mostly scratch built? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaptermaster Graymantle Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Absolutely fantastic work! Love it and eagerly waiting for more! :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamenter Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 Well this hasn't seen an update for a while (been working on regular scale stuff, I didn't feel belonged here). Here's what I'm up to right now: The "How to make an Actual Scale Space Marine Tutorial" is underway, about 30% done so far. This fella is my first test model for an Actual Scale Terminator, yeah I know it's a bit rough, but like I say, it's just a test model. Doesn't have to be perfect. http://masteroftheforge.com/images/august09/testtermi.jpg Also started work on a squad of heresy era Alpha Legionnaries. Not much to look at yet (prep work takes ages), but they're under way at least. http://masteroftheforge.com/images/august09/alpha1small.jpg Click here for larger image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shortsonfire79 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Haha, my current TS project is so big (the legs are bigger than a normal marine) I might make him into a Terminator...I'll just have to see how you do yours =-D Those Legionnaries look great =-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiro the Betrayed Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 so where did you get all those terminator legs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Beautiful work as always. You might want to look into getting so styrene half rods to use for the piping on the terminator legs. You would get more uniformity that way and save yourself a step. It would cost like $2-3 so should be an easy change. I've also started a using styrene to replace the upper leg section of my TS marines, its allot simpler that resculpting each time, you might want to look into that as well. Oh, a question for you I bought like 200 of those 30 mm bases you recommended awhile back, but the webstore seem to folded up and blown away. Do you have an alternate source on them? Cheer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusktiger Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 i think your test type terminator looks good so far, but i think the feet need to be bulked a little. with the extra armor they now seem a little too small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamenter Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Sorry I've been away for a while, couldn't be helped. so where did you get all those terminator legs? A few are bought as separate bits (bitzbox.co.uk) but most come from boxed sets of terminators (money to burn!!!). Beautiful work as always. You might want to look into getting so styrene half rods to use for the piping on the terminator legs. You would get more uniformity that way and save yourself a step. It would cost like $2-3 so should be an easy change. I've also started a using styrene to replace the upper leg section of my TS marines, its allot simpler that resculpting each time, you might want to look into that as well. Oh, a question for you I bought like 200 of those 30 mm bases you recommended awhile back, but the webstore seem to folded up and blown away. Do you have an alternate source on them? Cheer! I'll be doing something similar to what you suggest with the half rods when I try these for real next week. Sorry no idea about the 30mm base, but my guess would be they bought them from a supplier so there must be some out there somewhere. i think your test type terminator looks good so far, but i think the feet need to be bulked a little. with the extra armor they now seem a little too small. You're absolutely right, I never intended to feet to stay like that it was just a WiP. This is better, yes? http://www.masteroftheforge.com/images/august09/testtermi2.jpg Here's also a bit of an update of the Alpha Legionnaires squad. http://www.masteroftheforge.com/images/september09/alsquad4.jpg http://www.masteroftheforge.com/images/september09/alsquad5small.jpg http://www.masteroftheforge.com/images/september09/alsquad6small.jpg (more & larger images on my website) Once the Alpha Legionnaries are finished I've be moving onto the terminators properly (I fairly satisfied the mock up is of a good scale). I'll also try to finish up the tutorial I've been working on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtNACHO Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Very Nice! My one beef is that you should work out smooting and rounding and other such things on the Termi, I can't tell much on the others, but that Termi has a few areas that need altercation. I love that you changed the standard Aquila to only have one head! I thought that was gorgeous! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sersi Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 That Termie is looking very sweet. Oh meant to post this for you before. Your scratch building all your marines so here a simpler way to do rivets for ya. I just picked it up last week. What you might want to look up is "glitter beads" or "micro beads" they're tiny metal or glass marbles between 0.25 - 1.5 mm. You can get like a million of them for a $2-3. Just drill and appropriate sized hole where you want the rivet add a tiny amount of super-glue. Then pour the beads of the model. Instant rivets and all the same size. I bought 0.5mm silver beads and 1.0 mm copper beads. Thanks to the wife for the tip. The packages are like 5-8 grams each, so even international is negligible. You might also want to check your local craft stores, as women use them to be-dazzle cloths and stuff. Here is another option link, its a bit more expensive but they are actual stainless steel balls 1.0 mm, 1.5 mm, and 2.0 mm. TS The terminator seen here uses 1.0 mm balls for the rivets and a 2.0 mm ball for the belt buckle. Just another option for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamenter Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Very Nice! My one beef is that you should work out smooting and rounding and other such things on the Termi, I can't tell much on the others, but that Termi has a few areas that need altercation. I love that you changed the standard Aquila to only have one head! I thought that was gorgeous! Thanks. I should point out that the Terminator is just a mock up to check the proportion and scale will still work with the plastic legs as a base. The client asked for the aquila to be modified to look like the one used as the Great Crusade forum header : http://www.shroudfilm.co.uk/HorusBanner.gif That Termie is looking very sweet. Oh meant to post this for you before. Your scratch building all your marines so here a simpler way to do rivets for ya. I just picked it up last week. What you might want to look up is "glitter beads" or "micro beads" they're tiny metal or glass marbles between 0.25 - 1.5 mm. You can get like a million of them for a $2-3. Just drill and appropriate sized hole where you want the rivet add a tiny amount of super-glue. Then pour the beads of the model. Instant rivets and all the same size. I bought 0.5mm silver beads and 1.0 mm copper beads. Thanks to the wife for the tip. The packages are like 5-8 grams each, so even international is negligible. You might also want to check your local craft stores, as women use them to be-dazzle cloths and stuff. Here is another option link, its a bit more expensive but they are actual stainless steel balls 1.0 mm, 1.5 mm, and 2.0 mm. TS The terminator seen here uses 1.0 mm balls for the rivets and a 2.0 mm ball for the belt buckle. Just another option for you. Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it. Certainly seems a lot cheaper than what I'm using ATM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyoz Devastrius Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Here is another option link, its a bit more expensive but they are actual stainless steel balls 1.0 mm, 1.5 mm, and 2.0 mm. TS The terminator seen here uses 1.0 mm balls for the rivets and a 2.0 mm ball for the belt buckle. That terminator looks really big- I think 1mm balls may be to big for rivets on Lamenter's models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurgan the Lurker Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 This place is great for rivets/bolts/hex nuts/etc. http://www.scalehardware.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retributis Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Heresy Era Alpha Legion wouldn't have the Aquila on their armour though would they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Loken Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 If you notice it isn't actually an Aquilla. The Aquilla has two heads (one for mars the other for earth/one looking to the past the other blind to the future) this particular eagle has but one head and thus represents Earth and is an honorific awarded to certain worthy individuals. For example I believe that Garro was awarded a single-headed eagle that he was allowed to displayed on his breastplate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retributis Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 I stand corrected ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aqatone Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 FINALLY! Someone who doesn't make his models with chicken legs. Great job man, nice and beefy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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