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Stobz'z Legends.... Hello Darkness, my old friend...


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Right then: the next step is to dose them with 80% water/20%Agrax Earthshade and it doesn't need to be too even.

The 'better' painters and those wanting a more graded look should add more to the areas they want dark; I prefer it nearly uniform and rely on the visual depth created by the layering technique to adapt to the natural light on whatever tabletop you visit.

Also because I know I am going to weather them it is not crucial  to get it perfect and is even a little desirable.

15281721442_a651c85c3c_z.jpg

 

Aaannd the step after that is to use a combination of 66%Skull White/34% water to wash the model back to white and a little dry-brushing to blend out any drying lines.

As I said above the layering of the whites is what helps the mini catch the light and look more natural and less stark. A different coloured wash will of course give a different quality of the final product due to the translucence of the acrylic paints.

Traditional wisdom says paint Oil based paints from dark to light as they are opaque and to paint water based paints from light to dark due to this translucence but I find that the oil like quality of modern acrylics and using techniques like washes and scumbling (Drybrushing) allows us to work both ways to create even better depth of colour.

Light to dark, back to light and back to dark is a great way to treat light colours now.

15278983091_c0019f5200_z.jpg

Not a hell of a big difference in the pics here but there's heaps in real light.  Again, I am going for a slightly uneven look to aid the weathering look next stage, the uneven look also distracts the eye and gives it nowhere to rest on the larger areas, they get forced to move to areas of detail like the icons once they are finished...

 

I'm off to paint those now :biggrin.: Laterz

Edited by Stobz
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Here is the door with the basic weathering done, I just use Black edging and a VERY light drybrush to indicate direction of travel (downward :tongue.: ), it would be easy for peeps to add a little Chainmail etc. to make it look like the paint is off down to the core but I prefer to leave it looking like carbon scoring.

15292531111_108f7eb2f9_c.jpg

 

I've then done the Icons; they remain unweathered but I prefer that too as it makes them pop a little more and they don't have a great visual separation as it is.

15295684105_40714e3dce_c.jpg

 

So that's it really, just paint the other random bits on the model and Robert's your father's brother.

 

:biggrin.:

stobz

Edited by Stobz
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Couldn't resist getting a separate pic of him all done up with his friend:

 

Wooosh, Boom, Crash...

15295303232_9c7a827cd4_b.jpg

 

Pop goes the doors...

15108915889_9555f2cefd_k.jpg

 

Zap goes the Plasma :tongue.:

 

Cheers for putting up with me.

 

:biggrin.:

stobz

Edited by Brother Stobz
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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for getting me re-motivated to paint team, here is a pic I like from the Serephicus thread, because, well because I like it, that and it belongs here too :wink:

 

15424469229_49f6fa02d2_k.jpg

 

And more importantly some newish dudes to work on (they will have a variety of weapon options and might not reappear like this once done, love magnety goodness)

 

15267380164_be93552f20_b.jpg

 

It's Log. Log, Log...

 

BS

Edited by Brother Stobz
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And more importantly some newish dudes to work on (they will have a variety of weapon options and might not reappear like this once done, love magnety goodness)

 

15267380164_be93552f20_b.jpg

 

It's Log. Log, Log...

 

BS

Seems legit.  Dont see any reason to change it up much..

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I'm probably gonna add a Chainfist and swap in a Heavy Flamer to the Heavy Weapon guy also I'd swap in another TH/SS on the SBolter fella when they hit the table top; they'll be riding in one of my Crusaders for sure and will most likely be CC oriented. This pic is just to get me started...

 

BS

Edited by Brother Stobz
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