Legion Rising

[araekyus]

Excellent post:) now i have a better idea on how to put all this together. however...funds are even tighter than before due to recent life events, so i am stuck hand pouring for the time being.

 

Just a question, and i may have asked this or was made mention in a post before. If the cured mold contains air bubbles, especially ones you cannot see, am i safe to assume that pressure method would attack those as well, causing the cast to warp and distort? All of my molds right now are hand poured and i know there are trapped air bubbles. Just not near any detail as far as i can tell.

[Boramar]

Very good post. I have been looking into this for a bit now and your post has cleared some things up for me.

[Subtle Discord]

Well ok then. I'll see what I can do on the Loyalist side of things. :D Can't promise a timeline, but I'll try to get some CAD designs up for some feedback so I can get a better feel for the projects. I have a few ideas bouncing around the back of my brain, so stay tuned.

 

Now, to answer araekyus, you have it exactly right. I mentioned it briefly quite awhile back in the thread. Making moulds under pressure is a very good thing, and removes 100% of all bubbles. Using a Vacuum can also remove air from mould RTV rubber, but as with resin, it bubbles and froths up a lot so it needs to be in a very large container to contain the mess. Also, even if you do Vacuum de-gas the RTV rubber, you can trap bubbles and air as you pour the mould. Pressure solves all of this in one step.

 

Unlike resin, when you cure a mould under pressure even larger bubbles will 100% dissolve into the RTV rubber. Even after pressure is released, there won't be a single bubble in the rubber. Also, just like the resin, the pressure will force the rubber into every detail of the prototype. Make sure the prototype is flawless, as the pressure will replicate even the slightest details.

 

∙ Left: RTV Rubber not cured under pressure. Right: RTV Rubber cured under 50PSI of pressure.

 

A little leftover rubber that is cured in the bottom of the mixing cup is an excellent visual aid. In this picture, you can see that the RTV rubber looks the same on the surface. Beyond the rubber curing in different cups (the left was in a more glossy cup than the right) on the surface they both look near flawless. Cut them in half and you can see the difference. When you mix RTV rubber, it's all but impossible not to introduce a small amount of air into the mix.

 

When you pour the resin into an non-pressure-cured mould all of those tiny bubbles will collapse and crush, just like the bubbles in the resin. Most of the bubbles will be far enough from the object that they will have no effect on the cast. They are also small enough that you won't see any major 'warping'. But, there will be many bubbles that are close enough to the object being cast that they will have an effect on the item. The most common defects will be small bumps, spikes, pimples, and even the odd tiny mushroom-like growth that is a bubble that actually filled with resin and popped free during the de-moulding of the cast object. While a bit humorous and a little Chaos-looking, it's not at all desirable.

 

If you are casting just for yourself, and/or don't plan on doing too many casts of an object, you can remove these defects easily enough. A good file, some sanding sticks and/or sandpaper, and maybe a razor for the odd thing, and the piece is totally usable. It does add labour to every object created, so once you have a Pressure Chamber it really is in your best interest to pressure-cure your moulds. Beyond removing bubbles for pressure-casting, you will get a generally superior mould with virtually no defects.

 

Edited February 9 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Studio Silvernale]

I was researching on pressure/vacuum casting and some sources say that a paint pot and 2hp compressor from Harbour Freight (80$ pot, 120$ compressor) will work just fine once you plug up the paint tube vent. Any thoughts? I try casting parts myself and end up with junk...

[Subtle Discord]

The Paint Pressure Tank from Harbor Freight is one of the Pots I wrote about. ^_^ It's virtually a clone of the Tank I use, but mine came with hoses that I don't think come with the Harbor Freight Tank. Both are hands-down 'Made in China' quality tools, but contractors are using them day-in-and-out to do large scale painting and they're not hurting people if properly used. If you treat them with the respect and care they deserve, it's prefect for someone wanting to get superior casts.

 

A 2HP + Compressor with that Tank will do just fine. It's all I have, but I made sure my Compressor had a respectable Reservoir. I didn't really dwell on it, but the Reservoir of the compressor can be useful on a few levels.

 

Foremost it will help fill the Pressure Chamber much faster. With my 5 Gallon Compressor fully charged I can fill the Chamber in about 6-7 seconds. That's good, as I mentioned, this will give you more time to crush bubbles while the resin is liquid. That full charge can actually completely fill the Chamber to the 50PSI I use, but the Compressor kicks in at about 35PSI and speeds up the fill.

 

A Large Reservoir will also help with moisture problems, especially if you're in a humid climate. The short of it is, resin doesn't like moisture when it's curing. How is that an issue? Compressors run hot, and when you compress a gas it also gets hot. Hot gas holds more humidity. If you fill a Chamber with that warm moist gas it will quickly cool (it's all cool metal after all) and condensation will form. A large Reservoir will help the compressor run less, generating less heat. And, it will let the compressed air sit and cool it the Reservoir, so if there is any moisture it collects in the Reservoir before you fill the Chamber. There is a line filter that you can get (I got one, just in case) that will catch moisture, but I never need it thanks to the 5 Gallons.

 

You can get away with a smaller Reservoir but I would pay a bit more for the extra size. It's makes the compressor more efficient no matter what it's doing, really.

 

So yes, one Paint Tank, one 2HP Compressor, a few fittings, and some other odds-and-ends and you're good-to-go.

 

Edited February 9 by Subtle Discord

[subtlebrush]

Question: Would there be any interest in a Land Raider 'Dozer Blade'? But, more of a Ram than a large wedge/blade.

 

I've had this itch to put one on my 'Raider, as re-rolling difficult terrain tests when you're trying to ram a Land Raider down your opponents throat seems like a good thing. I'm thinking of how to do it so it can lift to get out of the way for the Assault Ramp. It seems silly to add it if it blocks the Ramp. I need to do it in a way that won't add too much width, and clamp directly to the 'front corners' of the track housing. Humm... *wanders way, pondering and muttering to himself*

 

Uhm hell yes!

A Chaos Ram for vehicles would be amazing especially with how you design.

[The_Chaplain]

Question: Would there be any interest in a Land Raider 'Dozer Blade'? But, more of a Ram than a large wedge/blade.

 

I've had this itch to put one on my 'Raider, as re-rolling difficult terrain tests when you're trying to ram a Land Raider down your opponents throat seems like a good thing. I'm thinking of how to do it so it can lift to get out of the way for the Assault Ramp. It seems silly to add it if it blocks the Ramp. I need to do it in a way that won't add too much width, and clamp directly to the 'front corners' of the track housing. Humm... *wanders way, pondering and muttering to himself*

 

I'd need to see it, but yes, my interest has been piqued.

[RolandTHTG]

I think chaos could use a ram-dozer. Something that can be fitted over the front hatch but is lifted by the hatch opening.

 

Maybe you could get inspiration from battlebots http://members.toast.net/joerger/hall_of_fame.html orhttp://www.mutantrobots.com/html/index.htm

[The_Chaplain]

just a concept I threw together in ms paint.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7109/7861120184_6b692ba6be_z.jpg

 

Something similar to this subtle discord?

[Subtle Discord]

Well that settles that. I'm seeing a cross between the Vindicator Dozer Blade Push Arm and Pitch Arm, and a rake of reinforced 'Rock Digger' teeth. It will be more of a massive front grill of crushing death, than a Dozer Blade, but that's ok. -_- Now that I look at the 'Raider model again, I think I can actually squeeze the Push/Pitch Arm mount to the inside of the track housing, instead of the outside. there's also plenty of swing room for it to lift out of the way for the Assault Ramp. Yes, I think I can do this. *Evil laughter*

 

And yes, The_Chaplain, that's got the right idea, except that it will extend all the way across. Although, split like that, protecting each track individually has some appeal too. Humm... *Wanders off while pondering some more...*

 

Edited February 9 by Subtle Discord

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Those look the attachment I put on my clippers to buzz my hair, lol.

[Studio Silvernale]

If its chaos can't you have a daemon torso on each side reaching out to swat obstacles aside?

[NemFX]

just do a cast of the biggest attachment for a hair buzzer :)

[aioannou]

Wow! AMazing stuff, cannot wait to see the normal SM extra armour plates!

[Boomsly]

i had a much more complex and cool idea i think but it would involve a few moving parts, ill see if i can explain it,

 

put a dozer blade across the front of the LR the full width of the tracked parts, then vertically cut it in the middle so that its in 2 pieces, now imagine that you can slide them open (left and right respectively) to clear the LR assault ramp, it would be a simple swing arm on the middle of each bladeor even a slide hinge using plasticard rod inside another rod again on each blade

 

if needed ill butcher a few pictures on paint and try to help that way as my description may not make alot of sense :blink:

[Subtle Discord]

One of my strengths is that can visualize ideas quite well Boomsly, and I can see exactly what you're describing. I have considered this idea and like it. Regardless of what I'm about to say, I might end up making a few prototypes (this idea being one) and choose the one (or the best two-of-three) that works the best for production. Unfortunately, I see a few issues with a 'split' ram that swings/slides away.

 

First, I'm a designer who likes Plausibility. I know this is a Sci-Fi setting with many completely made-up ideas and concepts. However, I always try to create with the idea that it looks plausible, like it makes sense, and it could/should work if it was real. There also the K.I.S.(S). design principal: Keep It Simple (Stupid)! Many times less-is-more, and simple is the way to go. With that in mind I think how this would be used on the battlefield...

 

There's always a Daemonic solution Togusa-san, and I like that idea a lot. Rakes of claws, teeth, fused daemonic creatures bashing and crushing anything they can grab. Oh yeah, that's sooo Chaos, it's great. But I'm no sculptor. Building mechanical is my strength and I don't think I could do the idea justice with my level of skill at sculpting. Maybe someday, either by me forcing myself to get better at sculpting, or finding the right someone to collaborate with.

 

Sliding-Out has two issues; the First being the painted parts and wear. Sliding parts like to rub on each other and scrap off paint. I get all of these ideas to have moving parts (future projects of awesome) but always get hung up on how to make certain moving parts not scrap paint off each other. In fact, I always try remember that paint has thickness when building, and compensate for it when needed. Also, there's the 'would it be practical' issue of; When something like this opens it will add width and stick out from the sides of the vehicle - seems impractical.

 

Swinging-Out gets better; If you do it at the corner and have them swing to the front, they won't add any width, but, there will still be length. Like lifting, this reduces the moving down to a smaller pivot point, and with spacers and a good build you minimize paint wear and scraping. But then my mind drifts back to the battlefield. The Land Raider has just rammed its front end into a building/trench/fortification. Does it make more sense to have the Ram try to sweep and push the debris to the side (note: the Ram also becomes two 'walls' as well, creating a 'hallway' your Marines now need to get out of) and would it have enough hydraulic strength to do it?

 

I keep coming back to Lifting; It stays with a simple pivot to minimize paint wear. After ramming the building/trench/fortification it lifts to 'open a door' in the debris, as it were. And, it swings completely up-and-away from the path of the Marines assaulting from the vehicle. They can charge out (left right or straight ahead) with the lifted Ram holding up a bit of a 'roof' to secure the breach and hopefully keep it from collapsing. It just 'feels right' when I see it in my minds eye.

 

All that said, for this and future projects, keep the ideas coming! I think it's great when people like my work, it's always an energy boost. But, I love when people toss in ideas and input! Even if I've thought of them before, or see an issue with a concept, they are all still great. It helps me consider all options, hear what other peoples opinion are, and get me thinking outside the box. I have a lot of great ideas, but I can get tunnel-vision sometimes. Thanks again everyone!

 

Edited February 9 by Subtle Discord

[Boomsly]

im sure which ever way/ways you do it it will look right and defiantly be cool :D

 

that being said have you thought about space or reinforced armour for rhinos and LR for the loyalists, think forgeworld but with your own flair

 

other companys are casting generic symbols and things related to the legions, keeping to that you will be fine, ie flames/ scales sallys, roman numerals are fine to cast up as an add on for them, swords are common as are skulls, lions etc etc you get the idea

[AlexCrute]

Are we talking about dozer blade design for a Landraider?

 

Perhaps a form-fitting cowled dozer blade attached the 'lid' of the assault ramp, to pivot up with it on the lid's same axis. Could be fixed to hinge points on oustide of hull also, for strength (in the photoshopped picture above, somewhere near the hilt of the freehanded chainsword in the angel's hands). Needs a substantial hole for assault cannons to fire through when raised. Could be reminiscent of the steam-locomotive cattle-pusher.

[Subtle Discord]

Maaaybe... something, sorta, kinda exactly like that. However, I think it will mount lower - Right on/over/around the front corner 'axle bolts'. But it will have pitch arms/hydraulics that will add a more industrial 'dozer look. I can't promise a gap for the Cannons, but it will be somewhat narrow, so it should raise high enough to give clearance. But yes, something like a very nasty cow catcher, but less curved blade/wedge, more a rake of menacing hardened plasteel teeth.

 

Punch hole in fortification, lift debris away with raising Ram, clear to let the Assault Ramp drop, and vomit forth the payload of psychotic Marines. Yep. This idea is seeming better-and-better. ;)

Edited February 9 by Subtle Discord

[AlexCrute]

I wonder what the blade is expected/designed to push? What obstacle can a landraider not simply drive over?

 

I suppose its more to avoid getting bogged in a rapidly cooling swamp of enemy corpses. That'd be annoying.

[Subtle Discord]

My honest 'practical' logic is, Land Raiders get a Dozer blade option, but no 'out of the box' gubbin to fit the bill. Also, Land Raiders have to make Dangerous Terrain tests like any other rolling vehicle, so I don't mind a re-roll for the few points it costs.

 

My 'must build cool' logic is, massive Ram that can help the beast punch breaches into fortifications and strong-points, where it will release its squad. I think sometimes 'through' would be a real option. Even if I can't quite do that on the table, that's what I see in my mind's eye. Yes, it serves a purpose filling a void in the armoury, but really, I think it'll just make the 'Raider look more hardcore. B)

Edited February 9 by Subtle Discord

[Boomsly]

My 'must build cool' logic is, massive Ram that can help the beast punch breaches into fortifications and strong-points

 

I think it'll just make the 'Raider look more hardcore. :lol:[/font][/size]

 

rule of cool and the above 2 points more than justify the point

 

i will be after one as i am planning a display force with a lr and 2 razorbacks and the razors have blades, therefore the lr must have one too lol

[Subtle Discord]

A very early, quick, and simple, mockup to get a feel for the curve I want in the blades. I have no idea if the end object will be anything like this, but it's a start in the right direction.

 

 

I'll aim to make it modular, so I can swap certain parts from Loyalist to Chaos. This is a Ram Plate that has some obvious Chaos detailing and I think Loyalist will be a bit more blunt and chisel-like.

 

Edited February 9 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Boomsly]

while i like the look of that, its going to let alot of debris get underneath it and that sort of defeats the purpose of a dozer blade so that definitely has to be the ram variant unless i have been thinking of the wrong thing all this time :) Edited August 27, 2012 by Boomsly

[AlexCrute]

I like the curve and the bladed look of it. But then I went and had an idea didn't I?

 

Maybe it doesn't need to be articulated at all, certainly it'd be stronger if it's single-piece extension of the hull, monocoque-style. Landraiders are strong, but fortifications are fortifications. Robustness is paramount when driving into (even weakened, melta'd) walls is to be your modus operandi.

 

The non-raising dozer blade just needs to be lowish in the middle and needs to meet with the ramp neatly (by design). Charging terminators can stomp up the ramp and leap off into the fray - conferring Hammer of Wrath, obviously.