Legion Rising

[RolandTHTG]

Hmm, is there someway that you could make the add-on parts optional, or at least the Track portion? like 50 for the LR, add 10 to get the tracks, 5 to get the accessories (dirge, spotlight, etc) I know I'm interested in getting the awesome LR armor and accessories when I get around to redoing my LR, but I still have the tracks, so I'm not as interested in those.
For emphasizng the work and time that goes into the kits, what about adding a ''How it's made" section to the site, using some of the step-by-steps and WiPs from this thread?
As far as price points, I will say that you are not only producing a more detailed kit than Forgeworld, but a cheaper one when you factor in that you include doors in your kit.

I think a lot of growth factor is just about getting publicity. Have you tried to get a review on BoLS or Faeit, or one of the other modeling sites?

[BrotherJim]

I think that the prices are more than fair. though I do agree with the above that you should try to get more publicity, and add a how its made section to you store, which can link people back to this thread. people will feel more confident about spending their money once they see how much time and effort you have put in.

[Urauloth]

I really, really want a set of those rhino tracks. Fantastic work.

[Scribe]

Do you take requests?! :D

[Subtle Discord]

As usual, thanks for the input and feedback; it tells me I'm in the right range, and what I really need is a bit more product to fill out the line and more exposure. More exposure I've known from the get go, (I've taken my time, lurking as I built up some) but it doesn't hurt to have it reinforced; I do have a few sites that have requested some articles and product shots, so I've definitely got some extra exposure in the works. I'll have to see about finding a few more places to showcase and/or review what I'm up to. I'm also eagerly awaiting the first times I see my work assembled and painted by someone else. It's out there, and I'm hoping it will slowly draw some attention.

 

My plan is to take the current 'bare' armour kits and drop 10-15% off, and make kits with Armour, Tracks, and Accessories for about the current price point; I figure I'll just fold my discount into the price to make things more straight forward. Naturally everything will be on offer as smaller kits (Tracks, Accessories, etc., all by themselves) if you just want those, but the all-in-one kits will include a discount.

 

I really tried to compare my work to other studios, but I had a hard time finding really comparable products. Now, that's a good thing (I'm glad to have some kits I feel are more unique) but it makes price comparison a bit trickier. What I have found was priced well, but the quality in many cases was... ok, but not great. (In a few cases, I'm being nice, and the quality was just awful) I like to think my work is more elaborate, unique, and well made (build quality and cast quality) then a lot of what I saw. So, I did use Forge World as a final measure, and landed where I did. With improved processes and a larger selection of kits, I'm positive things will get even better in price and quality.

 

Do I take requests? Well yes, depending on what they are; but, even a request I can not undertake will plant a seed of an idea that might become real later. So request away. Worst I can say is that I am unable right now. But remember, one key rule of a request, input, or idea, is that it must not include any icons or motifs that were created exclusively by Games Workshop. Generic and unique good, GW intellectual property bad.

Edited August 23, 2013 by Subtle Discord

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

I love your work, and I think I mentioned this before, but my personal view of chaos is a little less flashy. What about some armor kits that are a little toned down from what you currently have? Obviously not loyalist, but still chaos-y.

 

I haven't gone through every post on these 18 pages so I don't know if this has been suggested before, but what about some armor kits for dreadnoughts? That interitus missile launcher you did is gorgeous and I would LOVE to see you do something similar for a chaos dread missile launcher arm.

[Brother Anvilus]

Eventough I don't have a chaos army, I must say these are looking mighty sweet! 

 

Now for planting a seedling in that brilliant mind of yours ( muahaha ): Greek/roman styled trimming/armor for those chapters involved... :D

[Scribe]

Actually funny thing now that I have read through this is you already have hit some of the points I was hoping you would.

 

Bolter ammo alternatives. I too dislike the low tech feel they have going on (since its not even accurate to 30K tech as per the Heresy FW stuff!) I would love to have alternatives to modify my CSM bolters, as well as Rhino Combi's and eventually Terminator Combi Bolters as well.

 

Combi Bolters for Terminators with the options (Plasma especially) would sell by buckets.

 

Alternative Dirge Casters.

 

Getting those alternative tracks up for sale. :D

[GodEmperorOfMankind]

I use the forgeworld combi bolters for my termies

[Subtle Discord]

Now I know why I avoided the tank tacks; I knew that, no matter how I when about doing them, they would be a pain in the ass. I started this project with a positive attitude hoping that being able to cast would make it go much faster.

 

It all started with a simple plan; and after some feedback, I chose to use just the Master Links for the entire length.

 

I kept the moulds very simple for these pieces. The parts are straight forward enough, I hoped they wouldn't pose a problem. After all, I cast large complex pieces with my injection method, these small links can't be that hard, right?

 

And so began my descent into madness... The links, they taunt me, laughing at me with each bubble they trap.

 

1) The very first casting looked very promising; the face of the tracks were well-formed and clean. It wasn't until I had a closer look...

 

2) On a related side note, several other parts and moulds are in the works. I need to juggle when I cure moulds in the pressure chamber (it takes over seven hours) so I can also make resin casts. Pictured here are a few new Havoc Launcher mounting plates. The old mould for this part is well past its prime.

 

3) So, as I said, once I had a closer look at the Track Links I started to see an issue; the dreaded bubbles. It turns out the teeth on these tracks just love to catch large bubbles and hold on to them. Since the parts are so thick the flowing resin passes over the bubbles, instead of forcing them out of the part. This is exactly why I'll be adding a Vacuum Chamber to my studio in the next few weeks. Where my method works well for thinner and larger items, objects like these are better cast under vacuum to pull the bubble out of these stubborn places.

 

4) But until then, I'll just have to make do with the equipment I have. I've devised a method of manually injecting some resin into the problem-prone places, followed by closing the mould and completing the injection. It works much better, but it's still far from perfect. What I can't do with my normal precision, I will complete with volume!

 

The Rhino Chassis links were much more reliable with my new technique, the 'Raider tracks have been much more stubborn, and slowly driven me to the brink. *Eye twitch... twitch*

 

The Rhino tracks came together with some effort, but it gave me hope that this wasn't going to be too bad. They are fiddly, but at least they cast somewhat reliably. The Land Raider tracks are just frustrating, but I am determined to get this set complete!

 

The voices from the warp, they goad me on; they have no sympathies for my trials, the Dark Lords care not for such things.

 

So, even though they are being a pain, I'm getting them done through brute force. I'm really liking how they are looking so far - soooo Chaos. It's too bad I need to make a fresh set of moulds so I can do the other side; but I think I have some ideas for simple improvements that might help them cast better.

 

I had hoped to have these done by now, but these technical issues will slow down making the final production moulds by a few days. Beyond that I'm well on the way to having all of the recent builds casting by next week, barring any unforeseen complications. The improved selection and kits will be ready and available at The Dark Works shortly after.

 

Edited February 8 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Those are amazing, SD. Not even considering the incredible work on the decorative aspect, they are SOOOOOO much better than the GW tracks.

[thamier]

So will next project be baneblade tracks too?

considering getting one and converting it to chaos so it would be extra cool looking

[RolandTHTG]

Noooo.... I had told myself that I wouldn't need the tracks, the current ones are still good....

[Subtle Discord]

As usual, thanks for the positive feedback everyone; during frustrating builds like these tracks, it really is motivating.

one of the main issues I have with undertaking any 'completely new'* kit is getting the base model. *Completely new = never done any kit at all, so I don't even have the model yet. I don't have the motivation (yet) needed to invest in an expensive kit like the Baneblade; I choose to invest in the Vindicator and Storm Raven kits first since they are proper fits to my army. (the Raven will become an Eagle in the end)

I do have plans to start collecting Cultists that are going to double as Chaos Guard when I'm ready to expand the army into that list as an ally. Then I will seriously consider getting a Baneblade kit and giving it the Subtle treatment top-to-bottom... Along with all the other Guard tank kits. *Maniacal laugh*

Everything is on track (See what I did there? clever, yes/no?) but a little behind schedule. Until I can get at least one more Pressure Chamber up-and-running (very soon) I can get caught in a catch-22 when I need to do casting and make moulds at the same time. With a little juggling, I've kept things moving forward and the last new moulds will be done very soon.

I have finally got a Vacuum Chamber in the studio and got it to work right away. It's a very interesting addition to the casting process that took some experimenting to get right, but now that I'm getting the hang of it, I'm very pleased with the results. I'll be doing an article about working with a vacuum at some point in the near future. It's been fun learning the process, and it made it much easier to cast the larger 'Raider Track Links I've been finishing. Speaking of the 'Raider Links...


After some less-than-enjoyable bench work, the Proditor Pattern Land Raider Track Links are ready for the mould-making process.

Everything in these pictures is either held in place with friction, gravity, or poster tack; if any of the fit looks a bit off, it's just because of this temporary fitting. One key point about these kits is that they will require the end builder to remove the small 'key' tabs that are used for the original GW links. It's just easier to remove the hidden tabs than to try and carve out a clean gap in these painstakingly crafted pieces. I would have literally blown a brain-fuse if I happened to ruin a part trying to do it. I completely overlooked them until I had several sections done, and potentially harming them was not a happy consideration at this point.


It was worth the annoying effort in the end; these tacks really complete the transformation of the GW kit, if I do say so myself.

Where the Vacuum Chamber really helped with the 'Raider Links, it wasn't useful for the smaller Rhino Links. After fighting to get it to work with the vacuum, I ended up going back to pressure only to complete the kit. As tricky as this build was, it really did help me learn some about the limitations of each method (pressure and vacuum) and when to consider using each. Funny how the annoying mistakes usually teach you more then the easy successes.


To the left: Satisfaction with a job well done. Yep, these look awesome! To the right: Frustration given physical form in resin!

When you're building a prototype it needs to be really close to perfect. It's almost scary just what details will be replicated in the mould; even a trace of my fingerprint is forever immortalized in the back side of the odd part. So, any flaw that would take longer than a reasonable amount of time to fix was tossed into the rejection pile. So many lost links. *Sniff*

So, all of the track links are done, and I am currently preparing them for moulds as I write this and also casting fresh pieces for stock before the moulds take over the chamber. The Proditor Vehicle Accessories are half moulded, and I'll show them once the entire kit is complete. They are turning out very well, and the Vacuum Chamber has been key to that success.

But that, as they say, is another story...

 

Edited February 8 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Just the tracks alone would make a huge difference on a GW kit. The rest of your artistry is just icing on the cake.

[HellChyld]

well done the dark gods are pleased and the minions wait for more!!

[Excessus]

What ever happened to those old terminators of yours? :)

[Subtle Discord]

*In his best Eugene Krabs voice* “Prepare yourself for a tale of misery and woe! … And delay that skipping… Pirates don’t skip!”

Sometimes I swear projects have a curse on them. I try to be positive and ignore setbacks, and usually that's more than enough to get me through. Mistakes and challenges happen, after all, so there's really no choice but to deal and figure it out. Then there are those builds that refuse to co-operate, testing my resolve to the very end. Yes, I'm looking at you... track links, oh scourge of my recent existence! Apparently, the Dark Lords have some hidden lessons for me to find in these trials.

Several weeks ago I added a Vacuum Chamber to my growing selection of studio equipment. I had a good theoretical idea of how to use a vacuum to help with removing bubbles, but there was a definite learning curve to figuring out how to get the desired results. Since I needed to make tons of individual links for the track sections I was building, I used the build to experiment with the new vacuum process. After all of those cast links (and they were a challenge in themselves), I thought I had it figured out.

Thinking I had the process sorted out, I started making moulds for the Rhino Tracks kit, and with that, the curse started messing with my mind. First, I managed to break the seal for two moulds I was making, and this happened...


∙ I tried to adjust the mould boxes after the rubber was poured, but before it cured. Not a good idea.

Since I thought my plan was sound, I tried to economize my time and make several moulds at once. In an effort to get them all to fit in the Pressure Chamber I shifted the top moulds too much, with no idea that I broke the bottom seal. It wasn't until I opened the chamber that I discovered the mess it created. Lesson 1: If you're not careful, trying to save time can actually cost you time. I was trying to push the limit of the chamber, and now I know better.

Once that issue was sorted out (nothing to do but start the moulds again – this will become a painful trend over the coming weeks) I completed the set and got to work casting; and that's when my inexperience with vacuum casting came back to bite me.


∙ When vacuum degassing, vents to let the expanding air escape are critical to the process.

I was trying to avoid gates/vents where I could, since more gates/vents equals more cleanup during assembly. These parts are reasonably small, so I assumed a vent on every-other-link would be enough. I was almost right... but almost isn't good enough in this case. The parts would cast (almost) perfectly, but small flaws keep appearing very consistently in every link that doesn't have a proper vent. I tried to modify the moulds by hand-cutting some extra vents, but unfortunately it didn't work. Lesson 2: When in doubt, take the extra time to do a single test mould before committing to a larger set of moulds. I assumed this mould setup would work. Baaad assumption! *Hits assumption with a rolled-up magazine*

Unfortunately, the vent issue only became really apparent after I had already started the moulds for the Land Raider Track Links. After seeing the problems with the Rhino Track casts, I knew the same issue would appear in Land Raider Tracks if I finished the moulds. So, I returned to the prototypes and added more gates/vents before re-starting the moulds.


∙ Lesson 3: Dropping an uncured mould is bad. 'Nuff said?

Good luck cleaning up a sloppy mess like this while the rubber is still soft. It sticks to everything and smears everywhere. Better to just let the rubber cure, and peel it up later; and this is exactly what I did. While not really hard to re-make, naturally, the waste sucks.


∙ Success! The added gates/vents did the trick, and the parts are now casting with virtually no flaws.

I'll be doing a much more elaborate article on using Vacuum during resin casting in the future. But for now, let me just say that once you get all of the variables worked out, the combination of Vacuum and Pressure is amazing for getting near-flawless casts. When done right, the success rate for casts is amazingly high. However, it's not a process that works perfectly for every kind of component, so it's not a 'one size fits all' solution.

The results with the Rhino Tracks were so encouraging that I was positive the Land Raider Tracks were going to cast just as well. I had taken the time to add the extra vents, after all. Well, it turned out there was another unexpected twist to be dealt with.


∙ Just when I thought I had it all worked out, this strange problem with bubbles cropped up.

Lesson 4: Different components need different vent considerations; not all parts will cast the same, even if they are similar. The Land Raider tracks are a perfect example; all of the longer lengths of assembled links cast perfectly almost every time, but the single links keep trapping bubbles in the 'teeth' of the links. I'm not totally sure what's happening in this case. The parts are similar, so why is there an issue with only the single links? For some reason, their size seems to cause bubbles to get really trapped in the 'teeth' with no chance to vent out. Whatever the cause, there were too many flawed casts for me to use these moulds. *Mutters a harsh curse under his breath* All of this would almost be comical at this point if it wasn't such a waste of labour and materials.


∙ Third time's the charm! With some final changes, the newest moulds are finally casting really well.

Ok, so now for the light at the end of the tunnel. The track moulds have finally been completely finished, and they are all casting very well. Curse lifted… I hope. The accessories are catching up now that the tracks are sorted out.


∙ Some successful casts up top; and a size comparison on the bottom.

Again, I’ll talk more about Vacuum Casting a little later. (I’ve already created a larger-than-expected wall-o’-text) It adds a layer of labour to the production, but also opens the door to an improved process for certain objects. If they are the right size and you can add a moderate vent, they will likely cast very well with this method. The searchlights and smoke launchers are a good example. Two Dirge Casters, the vehicle Bolter ammo drums, and a few other bits-and-pieces are in the works. Such as…


∙ Another example of a part that will cast much easier using the vacuum during the process.

After kit-bashing an Auto-Cannon a looong time ago, some dark creature whispered to me from the Warp, telling me that I could make a bit to do the same job in one step. It seems the dark entity was correct. It still needs some more detailing, but the idea is there.

So, for anyone who has shown interest, The Dark Works will be getting an update very soon with everything pictured, and a few other bits. I hope it’s been worth the wait. I can’t say I enjoy the process when it’s this stubborn, but I always like seeing it come together in the end. You definitely learn more from your mistakes, and I’ve learned a ton that I’ll be taking forward.

More to come…

 

Edited February 8 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

oh man, that AC conversion...

[Studio Silvernale]

I just got a vacuum chamber myself and I'm waiting to give it a try. Any tips or insights?

[Excessus]

I edited this before as well but I guess it didn't stick. I don't remember what I wrote though, so I'll just say "awesome" because they are...

Edited October 12, 2013 by Excessus

[The_Chaplain]

You ever contemplated a storm raven/eagle conversion kit?  I loathe the look of the chapterhouse kit.

 

Sorry about your moulding mishap, that would have me punching holes in the wall.

Edited October 12, 2013 by The_Chaplain

[The Nephilim]

Sorry about your mishaps, but I'm glad to see you back. It feels like ages since you posted last.

[Subtle Discord]

To ramble and answer questions in no particular order... A few pages back you can find some pictures of my first concept builds for a Storm Eagle. So yes, I have plans, but the first will naturally be a Chaos build. I keep getting friendly pressure to consider Loyalist kits, and I know it's only a matter of time before I start.

 

Sadly, my Terminators are in limbo with the rest of my army. Changing my hobby into a studio has come at the sacrifice of having time for my own hobby interests. I'm willing to accept that for now as I get some things sorted out, but the itch to get back working on some personal projects is getting too much to ignore. All work and no play, and all that... My army calls to me to build and paint, I must obey, and I will be sitting down with them soon enough, I hope.

 

Quick and dirty tips for Vacuum Casting:

• Make sure your pour gates are huge; the resin will bubble considerably.
• Be sure to use a bit more resin than you might think; too little and air bubbles can get pulled down into the part when pressure is added to the chamber.
• Use slower kicking resin so it stays liquid long enough for the de-gas process; if it gets too thick it 'froths' more and bubbles can't escape as well.
• Be patient and let the Vacuum go as long as it takes; the boiling of the resin will calm down and literally stop when the de-gassing has finished.

 

and finally, to get away from casting and moulds for a moment, I figured it might be interesting to show a bit of what keeps me away from my studio during the Fall and Winter months. In this case, it fits right in with miniatures and gaming, so it seemed a good subject for a small distraction post.

I've mentioned on occasion that I have recently returned to school to study for a bachelor’s degree in Industrial Design; and by ‘study’, I mean draw and build, draw and build, draw and build some more… then start again. My choice of field of study is in no small part due to the wargaming hobby and everything that comes with collecting, building, and painting. The response to my work from the community, in general, told me I needed to take myself seriously and go for it. If I can do this in my basement, what could I do in a larger industry setting?

My direct goal isn’t to become a miniature designer necessarily, but I have several more years of school to figure out where I fit and what I want to do. That said, I’ll be bringing all of the skills, equipment, and process that I can into my modest studio and the kits I’ll produce over the coming weeks, months, and years. Huh… that’s almost a paradox. Oh well, such things happen when you’re fueled by the Warp.

So, while many of the projects I have done (and will do) have limitations on what I can choose to create, sometimes we get the freedom to make larger choices in form and function. I was flipping through some older photos and a project from last year came up; we were tasked with making a Carryall for a modest selection of items important to a task. My brain immediately set on a case for miniature painting supplies…


∙ The construction had to be made mostly of paper; almost everything is built from Posterboard, Cardboard, and Mayfair paper.

∙ The hinges, swing arms, drawer slide, and magnetized latch are the only parts made from plastic so those parts would be strong enough.

∙ I had the option of building to a smaller scale, so I could have made the build easier; but if I was going to make this, I wanted to be able to use it in the end.

The paper-plastic combination in the construction makes the build a bit fragile, but it still functions well to keep all of the most needed painting supplies in one place. I can close it all up and tuck it away if I need the desk space, or if I want to move my painting location temporarily. Maybe someday I’ll improve the design (it really deserves a good handle of some sort) and try my hand at making it from plastic and metal.

 

Edited February 8 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Tyrannicide]

You're a freakin god amongst toddlers, Subtle. I'm over here struggling to make anything out of plasticard and you're doing this. :D