Legion Rising

[Bat33.1]

Hi SD I just wanted to let you know my kits arrived safe and sound today, time for the fun to begin...

 

Everything looks great but I've just got to add that your tracks are sooo much cleaner than the FW version for the LR 

 

Thanks and Merry Christmas to you and yours

Edited December 24, 2013 by PJ1933

[FENRISÚLFUR]

What type of casting resin do you use, and how long of a cure time do you like when vacuum/pressure casting?

[Subtle Discord]

Oh, the best laid schemes of mice and men... Often go awry... *Subtle pokes the slumbering thread and it twitches and fidgets in its uneasy sleep* Soon my child, I will have sustenance for you soon...

 

To answer, I prefer Smooth-On products for my moulds and casting resin. The site can be a bit daunting with its vast selection of products for every possible application, but when I was starting out, their tutorials for getting going were very useful and their marketing hooked me. There might be cheaper alternatives, but I haven't had the time or inclination to look and experiment with other products. Smooth-On seems hard to beat.

 

For my moulds I prefer Mold Star 30; it produces very tough but flexible moulds that have a good working life. For only Pressure casting I use Smooth Cast 300; when only using Pressure during curing the 3 minute pot life and 10 minute cure time is great, but you need to work fast. For Vacuum + Pressure casting I use a Mix of Smooth Cast 300 and Smooth Cast 305; Smooth Cast 305 has a 7 minute pot life and a 30 minute cure time, but I don't need nearly that much time. I mix 9 parts SC 300 with 1 part SC 305 to slow the cure time just a bit for the extra time needed to Vacuum degas the resin before Pressure casting.

 

Note: Double the pot life (time you have to mix and pour/inject the resin) of the 305 comes with triple the cure time. Fine for hobby production, but it can be too long for larger production of you can't cycle through moulds. Hence the reason why I mix.

 

Also Note: Cure times given by the company are for larger items in many cases. The volume of a curing object will produce heat that will speed the curing process. So, larger item = more volume/heat = faster cure. Small objects like the ones being cast for war-gamer needs will take roughly 50% longer to cure enough to safely remove them from the mould. SC 300 takes about 15 minutes, and my SC 300+305 mix takes roughly 25 minutes on average. SC 305 by itself would take 45+ minutes I would guess, but I've never used it straight.

[thebymster]

Amazing modeling. Very good colour scheme, excellently painted. I love the dedication to your art.

I'm so surprised you haven't been head hunted already!

Edited February 14, 2014 by thebymster

[Subtle Discord]

"Klaatu... verata... n... Necktie. Nectar. Nickel. Noodle. … … It’s definitely an ‘N’ word! … Klaatu… verata… N-*Cough*! … … Ok then. *Takes the book* ... Wait a minute! Everything's cool! … No really, I said the words. I did!"

*A huge portal opens and sucks Subtle out from under his rock, flinging him across several realities*

 

Thanks thebymster, you know, at this point I'm happy to hold my head up high and I'm open to the idea of the right someone making the right proposal. But that will happen if/when it happens, and I'm happy to forge my own way if that's what it'll take. Either way, school is key for me right now; it really is changing me from an ambitious hobbyist to a designer. I have a great foundation of skills and talent, but I am already learning so much that will take it to the next level and beyond.

This poor thread, I need to feed it some ration of content to remind it that better times are coming. Naturally, I’ve been very busy, but there are all sorts of things brewing in the background, I can assure you. It may get quiet, but the Basement Troll is always up to something. When we were last visited by our intrepid adventurer, a Heldrake was taking form…


∙ The composition of the model with the base will make it a bit taller than the standard flying stand provided, but not enough to have me worried. It will loom over the army nicely once finished.

I’ve always been a fan of real stone for basing. It’s true that you can get some amazing results from a number of other products and/or techniques, but for me when I want a rock, I use a real rock. In this case, it meant I needed a very large and unique rock, and I’m enough of a collector to have a modest selection. I keep my eye open all the time for unique stones, rocks, and other potential basing materials. Even in a built-up city, you can find all sorts of interesting textures and objects in your environment; just one small scoop of some crushed gravel from a construction site or playground can provide ‘basing stone’ for years.

One key to working with stone is getting high-speed rotary bits that can handle drilling hard rock. Dental drill bits are perfect, but there are many other bits that can handle the job. It’s not always necessary to pin a miniature down but if the only contact point/s with the base is on the stone you’re using, it really is better to drill a hole and pin the model down to the stone for added strength. In the case of the Heldrake, it needed a larger/deeper-than-average post hole for the foot to attach to the base. An extra win-win about using this much real stone on the base is that it is very bottom-heavy and stable; there is little chance this model will get knocked over.


∙ Changing the pose exposed too much of the ball-joint that is used to connect the parts; a simple cover-up was in order.

It was a simple task to use some half-round styrene rod and some of my ever-growing supply of pipes and hoses (Thanks to my GSI Tentacle Makers. Note: v2 coming soon) and give the offending spots a bit of a cover-up. I did file down the top of the sphere a bit before starting, just to lower the layer of pipes and hoses a bit.



∙ The changes in this kit alter the pose and feel of the model dramatically, but they weren’t all that in-depth compared to some of my projects; it came together surprisingly quickly.

A tip for filling in large holes and gaps like the original flying stand hole in the chest of the Heldrake; work in 2-3 layers. Fill the offending hole about 90% of the way with your preferred epoxy putty, and once that's cured go in with a thinner layer to finish the job. Then file, sand, and smooth the location to blend it away seamlessly.

The ‘Drake even got a good part of its paint job started before my workload forced me to put it aside. It, along with the entire army that will bask in the grim shadow it casts, are all poised to get actually finished come springtime. A few new paints and some Liquid Gold are in order to replace some ancient pots, and they should be just the incentive to get the brush going again.

Now, that’s not to say I don’t have more than a few building plans for The Dark Works. As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to do a counts-as Aegis Defense Line, and it has seen some good progress…


∙ After several iterations, this broad pattern was the final build that really worked well. To take the idea of defensive out of it, I plan to call it a Siege Line.

Obviously, there is still a lot of detailing that needs to be done. Once the main trim and rivets are done I’m going to add some cabling and some kind of Vox grill or screen. I’m still working it out and might do some sketches that I’ll show later. My drawing skills are improving dramatically with the projects I’m doing in college, so it’s only a matter of time before it migrates to my p’logs.


∙ By popular demand, I will be starting work on a complimenting line of Loyalist vehicle kits; this Land Raider pattern is almost ready to start building once the studio wakes from its hibernation.

With this new Land Raider armour pattern I wanted to address one shortcoming of the original Chaos kit; the Sponson on the original kit is ‘locked’ in the front position by the detailing of the pattern. Now, this is my preference, but I can understand only too well that others might want it switched. So, after a bit of tweaking and adjustment, I was able to design a plate that can be swapped to switch the orientation of the Sponson. The layers of styrene that make up the side wall will need to be ever-so-slightly thicker than the current kit, but it won’t have a noticeable impact.

 

There's still a bit more detailing to be done with this pattern, but it's well on its way to the workbench. I'm hoping by the time I can start work on it I can have a stock of round rivets; it's a small detail that I think will suit the Loyalist kits.

As always, this is only the tip of the iceberg; the voices from the warp are always chattering in my head, giving me ideas and inspiration. There are many other projects under consideration, and with my newly improving drawing skills I hope to be showing all sorts of concept sketches when I return to my studio work with more time.

 

Edited February 6 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[The_Chaplain]

It lives...it lives!! Bwahahahahaha! Seriously though; fantastic update to this thread Subtle Discord! The lineart for the loyalist tank kit looks good; and its a product that is sure to sell!

[YoungWolf7]

I like the idea on the sponsons. Looking forward to the loyalist kits. :)

[Subtle Discord]

Thanks for the kind words guys. It was only a matter of time before I started doing some Loyalist kits, and I'm glad people approve. Funny thing is, I doubt it will encourage me to start a Loyalist Marine army (my corruption in the name Chaos is absolute) but that won't change the attention to detail that I will bring to each kit.

[The_Chaplain]

 

Thanks for the kind words guys. It was only a matter of time before I started doing some Loyalist kits, and I'm glad people approve. Funny thing is, I doubt it will encourage me to start a Loyalist Marine army (my corruption in the name Chaos is absolute) but that won't change the attention to detail that I will bring to each kit.

. Well it's not only that; but by making loyalist kits as well you also providing a blank template for people who play renegade chapters to tinker with the kits to give their vehicles a sinister edge without going full blown chaos aesthetic, if that makes sense. Really excited to see what your studio comes out with next!

[Forté]

Do you still have plans for something for Chaos Vindicators?

[Subtle Discord]

From a fiction standpoint I like to think there's a point where an army on the fringes of Imperial space (or perhaps cut off) would have little choice but to look for local production to rearm and refit. And if they could also provide improved equipment to aid in the campaign? It could be frowned on by Imperial protocol, or even seen as a blatantly traitorous act, but that is the wonderful grey-zone that is the entire Warhammer universe. I also have plans to do a more subdued traitor design that is a step between this Loyalist design and my current Chaos designs. The Storm Eagle (when I can eventually get to it) will be built in that style to start, before it migrates to other kits. I also desperately want to try to do a design that is a little more 'elegant and flowing' suited more towards Tzeentch and Slaanesh themed builds. The trick is combining the curved lines with the angular forms of the Imperial vehicles, and actually cutting/building said curved forms to the standard that I want. But, all in due time.

 

And yes, plans for a Chaos Vindicator are in the works, but I want to align it with a bigger plan. What I want to do are kits for generic 'Dozer Blades and Destroyer Blades kits for both Rhino and Land Raider chassis; and I want do them along side the kit I have planed for the Vindicator. I'm aiming to make certain parts very modular so they can be used across several kits, and add options for variety in how the kits assemble. The image in my mind is great, but it'll take much more planning than just one off kits. The lure of just how great the final series of kits will be is just too much for me to abandon it; so for now it's on the back burner until I have the time to do it justice.

[The_Chaplain]

Land raider dozer blades? Again, they will sell like hit cakes. Personally? If there was a fixer option for a land raider that looked like a repressor's dozer/vindicator siege shield hybrid? For a land raider? Oh man, I'd buy one for every tank I even contemplated making; and magnetize them for when gw's rules department pulled their heads from their .

Edited February 20, 2014 by The_Chaplain

[Subtle Discord]

That's the plan, and the Repressor 'Dozer Blade/Shield is a very good example of where I would start for inspiration, before making it my own design. As I eluded to, I want to make the connecting hardware somewhat generic; safe to use on Imperial or Traitor vehicles. The rams, blades, and shields will be interchangeable and have more flavor, with modular bits to give some options for variety during builds. Magnetizing is something I been in love with for many years, I will be adding it in all my designs whenever it seems logical and practical.

 

I've had the idea rattling around the back of my brain for quite some time, but it hasn't formed into a complete image yet. I've had some more inspiration, and I think I'm on the right track, I but haven't had time to explore it with my current workload. The biggest hurdle at this point is coming up with a solution that I like for making a 'split' version for the Land Raider. I want the final solution to feel plausible that it lifts out of the way when necessary, so it won't conflict with the front assault ramp. I picture the Land Raider driving forward, ramming a breech in the enemies defenses, lifting the 'Dozer Blade up to clear debris, and inserting assault troops into the thick of things.

[Grizzly_bear]

Wow....fantastic work fella....

 

There is no more I can really say lol

[Subtle Discord]

Damn you GW! These new Imperial Knights just scream 'Mars Pattern'. Now they've got me wanting one of these models so I can make a 'Lucius Pattern' conversion kit. Like I didn't have enough to deal with, they go and do this to me. Too... many... ideas... not... enough... time!

[deathspectersgt7]

Did I read somewhere you were going to do some loyalist kits hmmm!?

[Aqui]

not... enough... time!

I hear you on that. This very topic has inspired me to make a kitbashed female Dark Mechanicus Magos (counts as Warpsmith, as I find the official one too "busy", plus it's finecast which I find too soft for my clumsy hands to work with well ) I might eventually get it actually done

[Subtle Discord]

Did I read somewhere you were going to do some loyalist kits hmmm!?

 

Scroll up on this page and you'll see the first plans for a Loyalist Land Raider kit. I hope to have a Loyalist Rhino Trim kit following on its heels, and I've got a few ideas that I want to try and make neutral (think Void Field Gen and Promethium Pipes) along with some ideas that I want to be modular enough that they can have parts to swap out Traitor/Loyalist. With the surge in Chaos Bike popularity, the idea of a Chaos Jetbike counts-as has been re-awoken by the voices in the back of my brain; being inspired to do Loyalist kits, if I were to do it correctly, I could make a hybrid central component that could have Traitor or Loyalist flavored parts switch-and-swap as desired.

 

And I've got so many other ideas rattling around, it's starting to get really loud in my brain. But I've said too much already... no time now... but just wait... soon...

[Aridene]

Looking forward to some Loyalist kits  and that 'Lucius Pattern' conversion kit.

[Subtle Discord]

Damn these boards, I swear they are a link to the Warp, letting the voices crawl into the back of my brain. Now, with Knights making my brain bubble with wonderful ideas; even if Chaos can't officially take them, my idea is evolving to making it a Lord of Skulls counts-as from the kit. Think scaled-up Defiler meets Imperial Knight and you might get an image of what I mean. If done right, it might (key word) even be able to produce a production resin kit; but the scope of a build like this would be massive. Do'able, but massive.

 

But that's not enough, then this new voice pops in my brain as I'm reading a thread talking a bit about Warhammer 30K, and tells me I should start a 30K army of the Legion just after the death of Horus, right when they chose to paint their armour black. The voice understands that my work with black is not near finished, and this would let me have the best of both worlds... The idea has such intrigue to me, at that point (in my interpretation) I don't think they would even be the Legion; maybe have them take on some unofficial moniker like The Fallen Sons. Hummm... this idea might just have legs.

Edited March 1, 2014 by Subtle Discord

[zxyogi]

Ahhhhhhhhh...More Awesomness going on here!!!! Edited March 1, 2014 by Bryan Blaire
Do not use altered lettering to avoid the Swear Filter

[GuitaRasmus]

Damn these boards, I swear they are a link to the Warp, letting the voices crawl into the back of my brain. Now, with Knights making my brain bubble with wonderful ideas; even if Chaos can't officially take them, my idea is evolving to making it a Lord of Skulls counts-as from the kit. Think scaled-up Defiler meets Imperial Knight and you might get an image of what I mean. If done right, it might (key word) even be able to produce a production resin kit; but the scope of a build like this would be massive. Do'able, but massive.

 

But that's not enough, then this new voice pops in my brain as I'm reading a thread talking a bit about Warhammer 30K, and tells me I should start a 30K army of the Legion just after the death of Horus, right when they chose to paint their armour black. The voice understands that my work with black is not near finished, and this would let me have the best of both worlds... The idea has such intrigue to me, at that point (in my interpretation) I don't think they would even be the Legion; maybe have them take on some unofficial moniker like The Fallen Sons. Hummm... this idea might just have legs.

 

 

Great idea - although I don't think there's any reason to make it a lord of skulls counts-as; I can't imagine ForgeWorld not already cooking up some add-ons, and producing a chaos version dataslate. It's too good an opportunity to make money from the chaos players to pass up.

[The_Chaplain]

I agree with GuitaRasmus on this one SubtleDiscord, keep it as a knight.

 

Oh, and as always, the obligatory hurry up with loyalist kits comment. 

[Subtle Discord]

I have so many other plans and things in the works a Knight will have no choice but simmer on a back burner for now; I still welcome the input and encouragement. Sadly any major progress will have to wait until spring (May) due my current obligations. I'm hoping to make this summer very productive, but the best laid plans of mice and men, and all that...

 

I lean towards a Lord of Skulls because I've wanted to do a Defiler-like monstrosity as big as a titan for a loooong time, but wanted to complete a reasonable army to surround it before adding such a large centerpiece project. The silhouette of the Lord is just so complimentary to the idea I doubt it will go away.

 

Fear not however, since I really like the Knights as-is I have no doubt there will be a Lucius pattern done with my Chaos trim, and when that happens I will do my best to make a 'clean' Loyalist kit along side. Perhaps the Defiler-titan will be a one-off for myself, and the Lucius builds will be production kits for the studio. That sounds like a plan.

 

Trying to do both Loyalist and Chaos kits side-by-side is going to be my new design philosophy. While it increases the work is also saves some; building a kit comes with bits of on-the-fly adjustments, and those get forgotten when you walk away. When you return to a pattern to build it again you need to re-learn those tricks; doing things at the same times lets you avoid the second learning curve, as it were.

 

One good thing about Loyalist kits, they should actually be a bit easier to cut since they lack all of the points and arrows; less rotating and aligning of the ruler for cuts is a very good thing. It won't make them half the work or anything, but every little bit helps when you're making hundreds of cuts.

[matphat]

Ahoy Discord!

 

Firstly, I wanted to say, your thread is so inspiring, and your work is pure art. I'm blown away with the level of detail, and all the love poured in to this project. Thank you for sharing it.

 

Secondly, I was wondering if I could convince you to talk a little about your plastic card cutting technique. I've been scratch building Ork vehicles since 2010, but I use much heavier card, and don't need to cut as accurately, or in such small dimensions as you do with your Rhino trim. I've since started an IW build, and have been trying to reproduce some of your techniques for some custom IW iconography and trim. What I'm running in to is a problem with working such small angles, and how brittle the card can be.

 

I'm using a standard Xacto with a new blade every time and assisted with a steel ruler.

I've had card split at the angles and break off points and arrows. I've had problems with keeping the template stable (Using a glue stick to attach). And generally, I've had a hell of a time making arrows symmetrical. Over all, I'm sure it's a matter of practice, but wow, these tiny cuts are incredibly hard.

 

Thanks for your help!