Legion Rising

[Subtle Discord]

Funny thing is, Power Fist is Princess Auto's house brand, so there are all sorts of Power Fist products. It almost feels like Imperial propaganda marketing sometimes.

[Subtle Discord]

First up, more semi-random babbling about various things that have been asked or wish to comment about. Over the years I’ve made people swear at me (in a good way), deem themselves unworthy (you are, we all start somewhere – build something!), call me crazy (in a good way), and otherwise give me very positive feedback to what I can do. I always contended that I prefer the term eccentric, since it makes me sound interesting and wealthy but I do recognize that it takes a certain kind of ‘unique’ to do what I do. I’m glad the designs I come up with resonate with people, and I really do appreciate the great feedback and input; it’s a conscious effort that I try to follow a design language with the work I’m creating and I’m glad it shows.

While I finished several great kits this summer, (more still working their way through production) there were several others that I couldn’t get to as planned. To those who were interested in seeing bulk trims, the Jetbike, and the Storm Raven extension, in particular, know that they are on deck and I’m going to do my best to try and get progress on them as time permits. As usual, this is also only the beginning but I’m still learning much as I go; now that I’ve had a taste of digital creation and have a better understanding of what to expect I plan on doing so… much… more… Stay tuned.

This extends to Loyalist kits and ultimately other factions. While Chaos will always be my first calling and be the primary focus of my studio while I gain momentum, Loyalist kits will increase considerably over the coming months and years. I hope to branch into other races once I’m done with college and turn my focus to really pushing the studio to the next level. This could mean kits by my own hand and/or work done by commission or collaboration with other talented individuals. But that’s still a way off, and another story for another time.

It’s been mentioned a few times that Forge World should give me a job, but unless I move to London I don’t think that will be happening anytime soon; it’s my understanding everything is designed and prototyped in-house in London. I understand that it’s usually meant as a joke, or only semi-serious, but there is a part of me that would really enjoy being able to do work that is ‘official’. I think GW is cutting themselves off from a world of talent and maybe when I’m done college there’s some way I could make them see that. Wishful thinking? More than likely, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. The downside of actually achieving official status could very well be loss of creative control, so there is another side that reminds you that sometimes you need to be careful what you wish for. Well, I’ve rambled enough, so let’s get to the meat of this post; the good, the bad, and the ugly (as it were) of where I’m at today.


∙ Shapeways knows how to pack an order, that’s for sure.

When the box arrived I thought there must be some kind of mistake, it seemed far too large for my order. I had ordered several pieces, but they were mostly very small. Once I started digging in I found they had individually wrapped each-and-every piece, no matter the size.


∙ The Frosted Extreme Detail print process from Shapeways comes with a few technical considerations when being used to make casting prototypes.

The first I’ve already spoken about; where the wax that is used to support the object during printing comes in contact with the object, there is a noticeable ‘frost’ as the name suggests. On most surfaces and locations it’s actually not that bad and seems subtle enough to vanish under paint. The second is a very noticeable layering on two opposing sides of any object that is most pronounced on sheer vertical surfaces; this seems to be some limitation of the print process and is most noticeable on flat vertical surfaces. When the surface has a grade or a curve the problem becomes much more reduced and becomes reasonable, but it is quite strange. What I have also noticed is that surfaces that suffer from this and also come in contact with the wax will get a much coarser ‘frost’ that benefits from being gently sanded to refine and improve the finish.

Finally, the material is very hard and tough; scraping with tools and scrubbing with a steel wire brush does no damage but cleans the surface well. However, it is reasonably brittle. While it will hold up well to being scrubbed and sanded to refine the surface, dropping an item on a hard floor will many times cause items to break. Case and point, the poor barrels for the Auto Cannon unfortunately fell and were ruined. I couldn’t believe it when it happened; they are reasonably small and you would think they wouldn’t hit with such force. A replacement will be printed, but it is going to delay the release of this weapon system. All weapons will be offered separately, so these will be available in the near future once a replacement arrives. A few other parts will require a redesign (more on that in a moment) and thus a reprint, so this will be joining them.


∙ Notoriously difficult to photograph, here I’ve tried to show the frosting at its worst.

It effected the missile racks so badly that it made me actually come up with a far superior design that should solve my original problem (mould rubber around the edge of the missiles in tubes is so delicate that it wears out very quickly – the ‘frosting’ texture would only make that worse) and make the moulds last much longer, but also make a more versatile kit. Instead of making it on one piece I’ll do the missiles as a layer, and then a keyed plate with holes in it will be placed over. The way the launcher assembles will make the join all but invisible, and it will make it easy to remove a few missiles to simulate a weapon that has fired some of its payload. This change has delayed the new Havoc Launchers, but the final kits will improved for it.
Center you can see the bad kind of ‘frosting’ on a flat surface straight from Shapeways, and you can see it actually glitters it is so coarse. To the right that surface has been scrubbed with a wire brush and washed; while the surface is improved and very smooth, it is also quite rough with a noticeable coarseness under the fingernail. On broad flat surfaces like this a simple sanding and filing will quickly make the surface acceptable. If there is more detail it naturally becomes more work.


∙ While it does look interesting in the mould rubber, the translucent nature of the material is actually quite frustrating.

Not really understanding just how much of an impact the ‘frosting’ would have on my processes I tried to make moulds as with my own prototypes. This quickly turned bad as the moulds were prone to tearing during de-moulding of the prototype. Not being able to get a good idea of what the surface was like came back to haunt the first cast; the quality was just not good enough. The top layer of banding in the far right shows the coarse layering and how badly it can effect a surface. Below are surfaces that have been ‘frosted’ with the wax support material; again, it was just a bit too rough to be acceptable. So, while the mould being torn wasn’t a good thing, it gave me an opportunity to clean things up before trying again.


∙ Ok, let’s get to the one issue I’m having with the Rapier Platform. It’s driving me nuts.

Put simply, The edges of the tracks are being beyond stubborn, and it’s really annoying when every other part of the kit is casting so perfectly. And I do mean every part. Everything I’ve tried with the current mould will not remove the last couple of bubbles on the track. So, in my usual effort for transparency, I’m just giving an idea of the minor flaws that will be unavoidable in these kits while I get a different mould setup to try another idea.


∙ The flaws are minor on an assembled platform, and I’m sure I can hear people yelling to not worry about it and get the damn kits up for sale!

But, you wouldn’t like the kits I make if I wasn’t as particular as I am.  After everything I’ve tried to eliminate these flaws, I’ve just learned to accept them for now. While I have only planned on these three weapon systems originally, I can’t see why I couldn’t also do other weapons over time. I can’t promise a timeline, but I can say it’s possible at some point.

For now, these prototypes need to start returning on their investment so I can start doing more! These will be up for sale in the next day or so, along with the Siege Ram for the Land Raider. The Chaos Rapier chassis and weapons will be sold separately so you can have a choice to have them individually for projects or together as built by the studio. Other kits will start appearing as I work out final issues and get replacement parts. The smaller bits will start turning up once the larger kits have been sorted and can start generating some capital to invest in more rubber and plastic. They are great little bits, but they need to wait while the large kits get finished.

Thanks as always for reading, and I look forward to doing much more in the future. For now, my classes will be starting soon so studio time will again become very limited. But with the new tools at my disposal that continue to grow and develop, there will always be something in the works. Please Stand By…

 

Edited February 6 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[The_Chaplain]

Sorry to hear about the brittleness of certain parts and the difficulty you are having with the rapier tracks.   However, I'm very pleased to hear that the siege ram will be available for raiders soon!

[Olis]

Interesting stuff. It's almost like reading an actual blog. ^_^

[Nysse]

Great updates again Subtle! Love your updates!

 

One thing that should alleviate those problems with air bubbles being trapped is adding some small air vents on these larger flat surfaces. Make them so that they have a weak point (thinner area with a sharpish edge) where they can snap of and only minor sanding should be required afterwards to smooth it out. Generally flat surfaces are quite a pain in casting and porosity will tend to be focused around edges and corners etc. I'm a foundry engineer by education/trade and work with casting design and manufacture (though quite a bit larger ). Usually with these kinds of issues we just work by adding some vents (upwards or sideways) to have allow the air to have a way of escaping without being trapped by the form. A bit more clean up work and some scrap material, but then again far fewer completely scrapped parts.

 

And props on your mould design. Pretty solid stuff especially if you are mostly selftaught in the subject. Longer thin and flat parts can be very tricky, but if you add some small vents around the edges and corners it should really help with much of the porosity issue.

 

Edit: Here's a file I dug up to show what I mean a bit better. On the first page there's a few pics with the overflows and vents. You won't be needing as many, but adding a few when you have porosity issues might help. The paper deals with high pressure casting design, but the principles are the same.  http://webhotel2.tut.fi/projects/caeds/tekstit/HPDC_design/HPDCdesign_gatingventing.pdf

Edited September 8, 2015 by Nysse

[Slave to Darkness]

all that gear reminds me of the underground lab in breaking bad lol

[Augustus b'Raass]

Great stuff as always, SD! I'm SO looking forward to these. ALso super excited to read that you're considering doing the other weapons for the rapier. While I like the plasma, hades autocannon and the coil weapon, the heavy bolter variant is just the most competitive of the bunch. So I´d love those! 

 

Definitely ordering the siege ram for the LR in the near future.

[Slave to Darkness]

Id deffo grab some heavy bolter rapiers, I do like me some dakka

[Sception]

Bah, I'm probably going to have to wait for a later run on the rapier platforms.  Not because I have a problem with the minor bubble issue, but just that they're coming out at exactly the wrong time for me financially.  Oh, well.  Still, everything's looking great so far, and the description of the technical process and hang ups is all very interesting.

 

I do have a question, though - while the platforms and guns for the rapiers will be sold separately, will they be pre-fitted to magnetize them to allow swapping the weapons, or would doing so require some conversion work?

[JeffTibbetts]

Another excellent insight into how you're tackling all the issues I was curious about with 3D printing. I'd still love to see how some surfacer or leveling techniques might improve the minor stepping and frosting issues that can't be sanded. Since you're so transparent and take feedback so well, I don't mind telling you I think the rapier could stand to be a little cleaner in general. That said, we're looking at the raw mold, with no paint on it at all. I do believe paint will fill in some or all of the rough surface irregularities. 

 

It's a testament to the quality of your molds and resin work that every. Single. Little. Detail comes through. On the Loricatus kit, I could actually tell where a tiny bit of glue squeezed out and melted the styrene, changing the texture ever-so-slightly. It was amazing. I had mentioned Mr. Surfacer before but I've never used it myself. I think maybe a wash of thinned Tamiya White (you probably already know this, but you can thin it with Tamiya Extra Thin cement)  could smooth some of it out. Not sure how that would interact with your resin or the original printed pieces. Maybe you could test it out on the broken pieces? Results may vary, but perhaps even a wash of thinned Liquid Green Stuff or something similar could do the trick. Maybe hit up MadScuzzy? I know he's talked about making putty washes to smooth out conversion work. 

 

It may well be more trouble than it's worth, but knowing you that wouldn't be a problem. 

[HardCoil]

Thank you very much for your awesome knowledge sharing. For cleaning the wax off I can really recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. 10 minutes cleared everything off like magic

My prints got almost powdery white after cleaning (both in the ultrasonic and with a tootbush), did you notice the same?

 

Have you considered something like "mr surfacer" to help smooth both print-lines and castabilty? ( http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html ) 

 

Edit: Follow up stupid question: Wouldn't it be possible to use your pressure pot as a vacuum chamber? I realize the gradient is the other way around, but the pressure diffference is much smaller with the vacuum. It seems like it could be nice to go from vacuum to pressure just by turning a valve and pumping more air in?

Edited September 8, 2015 by HardCoil

[Subtle Discord]

Thanks everyone, B&C never fails to deliver compelling feedback.

Nysse, thank you for confirming what I had considered on a few occasions, but haven't actually tried for various reasons. I suspected that I could add 'blind' vents that could purposely catch a bubble that would shrink during pressurization and thus pull resin into the stubborn locations. It's always nice to see that it's actually a proper process/technique and my idea has merit. The one main problem I could see is the scale; in many of the places that I would want to do this, the vent would be so delectate that I'm sure they would be prone to breaking during the mould making process. I sometimes have to a bit aggress forcing an object into the layer of plasticine I use to create the spits in my moulds. In this case the track is less than 1mm thick, and that would require a very fine connection to the overflow vent idea, and would be especially tricky to add after-the-fact. You have given me some excellent food for thought, and combined with some other ideas I have several things I plan to try to further improve my process for future moulds. Strategically splitting the objects so I can take better advantage of the flat-back of an item is also something I plan to do much more in future; bubbles are not a problem if they are on the flat side of an object that will be hidden during assembly.

Heh... And yes, I've discovered myself that I am surprisingly good at mould making so it seems crazy not to exploit it. The skills I have to visualize 3D objects to conceive them for building serves me well when I'm considering a mould. It helps be to visualize just how the resin will enter and flow through the mould, and so I can usually tell where most problem spots will be. I have two casting methods I employ; injection with a syringe that is then pressurized to cure (the injection pressure provided by the syringe is the only way I can make the thin, delecate, and strangely-shaped components unsuited for vacuum casting) and more traditional top-down gravity fed pour that is then vacuumed followed by being pressurized for curing. The current method I'm using on this part is injection as it is faster (and usually quite reliable) and less wasteful on bulky objects like these parts. The overhang of the track detail is just a tiny bit too deep and bubbles get caught in dead-zones that don't have enough resin flow to move them out. I suspect that switching this part to the slower vacuum + pressure process will solve the problem in this case *fingers crossed* but overflow vents will be very useful on future components.

When it comes to actual surface quality, I don't completely trust the photographs; the flaws seem more pronounced when they are strongly lit for picture taking. I keep catching myself being critical of the pictures, but then when I look at the actual model in real life I notice just how small the issue I'm seeing is. I completely agree that there are some rather visible flaws, but most of them are actually quite subtle when you back away from a 2cm macro photo range. The annoying stripes leading up to some rivets left by the support wax are some of the ones that really drive me nuts. But as mentioned, paint will be the true test, and I hope to get some time to get a bit of paint on at least one of them in the near future.

The big thing about using any product to refine the surface is that I just don't want the hassle, plain and simple. I really can't afford the labor. Shapeways offers a great service, but they are more of a convenience store for rapid prototyping; I'm seeing now that I will likely need to find a company that specializes more in this area specifically, with prints that are much closer to mould ready right out of the box. I will complete my current kits with Shapeways for consistency and will likely experiment with a few other models using my new insights, but further research will continue into a better source.

The Rapier Chassis will come with an empty weapon yolk (the 'Y' component that holds the weapon) and 2 magnets included for people who want to use a weapon they have of their own; I know there's several kits that provide extra weapons that people might want to try and I figure I can provide the yolk to help the builder. The weapons themselves will also get a yolk and 1 magnet, again, to provide a part that will be easier to convert or modify if purchased alone. So, if you get a Rapier chassis and a weapon you will get an extra yolk and magnet for whatever purpose the builder may have. The mould for the yolks works well and makes three at once, so it's easy to spread them around.

And yes, a Pressure Chamber can be used as a Vacuum Chamber but the gauges for each need to be completely segregated from the effects of the other; high pressure will damage vacuum gauges, and high vacuum will damage pressure gauges. Vacuum chambers don't endure nearly the same forces that a Pressure chamber will be dealing with, so the strength is there. One of the big disadvantages of this type of setup is the loss of the window in the lid of the Vacuum chamber; the lower stress means that the tank can safely have a window to view the materials be de-gassed. Placing a liquid in a vacuum lowers its boiling point (exactly what you're after) and the liquid will literally boil and expand as this happens. Once the air has escaped, the boiling action will settle considerably and it is useful to watch for this. Additionally, the sticky nature of liquid rubber can easily make it bubble and froth to overflowing a container if you're not careful. Many times it's very beneficial to be able to see what's going on, unless you're 100% sure the container is large enough to contain the job.

[SW1]

I'm learning at the moment mainly through trial and error about casting. Reading this blog has been a real eye opener regarding a lot of stuff casting wise. So once again I must thank you for saving me a good chunk of time learning curve wise. As I'm not using pressure/vacuum processes I've been trying to work out how to split the model and having the main bubble issues in hidden central points. Though mainly doing bases and scenery bits to glue onto the side of buildings means I can get away with relegating them to the bottom of the parts. So IMO doing the split model or sacrificial sections and also using vacuum/pressure should make things as close to perfect as it is possible to be with the materials in question. :tu:

 

In regard to the 3d printing side I can dream about it and reading about your adventures into it makes it even more likely I'll be having a go sooner or later. The wife's not so sure this is a good influence but I'm certain it is. ;)

 

I've spent some time at MOSI (manchester's museum of science and industry) ogling the 3d printers and picking the brains of some of the staff there. Next time they update the 3d printer stuff they will have a section on the developement of home use though that may be a long time in coming as the current displays not that old. Currently it's mainly industrial and medical usage they have on display and shows how tiny you can print stuff.

[Nysse]

Nysse, thank you for confirming what I had considered on a few occasions, but haven't actually tried for various reasons. I suspected that I could add 'blind' vents that could purposely catch a bubble that would shrink during pressurization and thus pull resin into the stubborn locations. It's always nice to see that it's actually a proper process/technique and my idea has merit. The one main problem I could see is the scale; in many of the places that I would want to do this, the vent would be so delectate that I'm sure they would be prone to breaking during the mould making process. I sometimes have to a bit aggress forcing an object into the layer of plasticine I use to create the spits in my moulds. In this case the track is less than 1mm thick, and that would require a very fine connection to the overflow vent idea, and would be especially tricky to add after-the-fact. You have given me some excellent food for thought, and combined with some other ideas I have several things I plan to try to further improve my process for future moulds. Strategically splitting the objects so I can take better advantage of the flat-back of an item is also something I plan to do much more in future; bubbles are not a problem if they are on the flat side of an object that will be hidden during assembly.

 

No problem. Happy to help If you ever want some feedback or help I'm happy to help you. Though I haven't really worked with resins myself the basic design principles are still the same for resin as they are for metal castings. Just fewer things to account for

 

Can't wait to see your newest stuff come on sale. Will have to place another order then Loved your Rhino kits

Edited September 9, 2015 by Nysse

[Dragonlover]

Welp, that's three conversion beamers bought. I'd better get back to converting Black Legion...

 

Dragonlover

[Dragonlover]

Sorry for the double post, but my stuff just showed up. I've given it a once over, nothing looks out of place. Also, that's one hell of an impressive turnaround, wasn't expecting it until tomorrow at the earliest.

 

One question though: do I have to give it a scrub? None of the components felt greasy, but I figured I'd check.

 

Dragonlover

[Olis]

Sorry for the double post, but my stuff just showed up. I've given it a once over, nothing looks out of place. Also, that's one hell of an impressive turnaround, wasn't expecting it until tomorrow at the earliest.

 

Pictures? :)

[Dragonlover]

When I get home from work.

 

Dragonlover

[Subtle Discord]

Thanks for the order! I'm glad to hear it made good time getting to you and in good shape.

 

Yes, I strongly reccomend giving the parts a light wash. The mould release I use is very light, but I do use it on almost everything I cast to improve surface on the parts and the life of the mould itself.

 

On a related side note, I have run into an additional snag with the production off the Conversion Beamers. My current stock is good, but the moulds have worn out much faster then expected. Given their shape, the weapon systems can be very stubborn/aggressive during de-moulding, and the're really doing a number on the moulds. I think it's a mix of the rough surface, unique shapes, and less-than-optimal mould design.

 

I have alread figured out how to improve the mould so it can release the item with less stress, and my further insights into the surface quality issues should mean that the next mould will perform much better. I sure hope so, I need to get much more life out of these moulds if this kits is going to be realistic.

 

I'm really busy day today with classes, but I hope to get some shop time in over the next few days and I'll try and do another post to go along with it.

[Crevab]

Subtle Discord, your work is fantastic. I recently got several kits and I can't wait to make my motor pool more heretical.

 

 

A question though. Is a new version of the Loricatus Mk.1 being planned on? I looked through the last few months of the thread and didn't see anything mentioned.

 

Can't wait to see what else your're dreaming up

[MadSkoll]

I really love what you are doing here! As soon as I have finished my "Pile of Shame", I will definitely buy some of your kits! My vehicle park needs more vehicles (currently 1 rhino, hehe, not counting drop pods though ^^)

 

If you ever do a Spartan / Roman shield, an axe or a sword for the decimator engine... or chaos trims for drop pods... perhaps even khorny ones... nah I dont think you'll ever do, its too much of a niche, not all play khornates by space wolves codex ;)

 

keep up the good work!

[Subtle Discord]

Thanks, as always for the positive support everyone. While not my intended update, I've got *in his best Prof. Farnsworth voice* "Good new everyone!" and I figured it wouldn't hurt to share.

 

First, let me just answer... For niche models that I would have a hard time getting to, I plan to do Bulk Trim packs that provide several lengths of trim, some with a few corners, some with faction suitable motifs (arrows, blades, lightning, skulls, shields, open fields, etc., etc.), and lots of long lengths. They will require the end builder to cut the strips to length and do a little cleanup work where they meet at corners, but that seems much better than trying to scratch-build it all. Trim kits for specific chassis, where it makes sense, will also continue to be designed.

 

The Loricatus Mk. I will be replaced. It puts me in a catch-22; it's a popular kit that I want to replace, but it also takes a considerable amount of rubber for the moulds. If I'm going to pour that much rubber, I would like to update the kit to include some of the many improvements I've made to my studio. It's going to be worth it (it'll be amazing, just wait and see) but that means it'll be more time before I can get the prototypes done. This project (and others like it) will happen; more on what I'm eluding to later. Hint: think super modular, giving the builder the freedom to mix-and-match more.

 

∙ Warmaster, the production and trade negotiations of The Works have proven beneficial; our Mechanicus are pleased to have secured a Spartan battle tank, a true relic of the Long War for the Legion armoury. Reverse engineering of key subsystems has already commenced.

 

After dealing with most of the major expenses that the studio created over the summer, I felt it was safe to take advantage of Forge World's free shipping offer for Sept; and wouldn't you know it, the Spartan was just the right price to meet the minimum limit. One part early birthday present, one part studio investment seems like a reasonable mix.

 

I've had so much interest and requests for doing kits for the Spartan and Sicaran that it seemed like a logical addition to the studio; I simply can't build for something without the actual model to take precise measurements and do test fitting. But, thanks to those who have offered; know that there might be a future role for people like you in my large plans - but I digress, for now.

 

Because I recognize the base cost of a FW model, kits for FW models in particular will focus on being more efficient. In fact, the form and level of detail on these tanks make it all but necessary to keep additions less elaborate. There just aren't the same long uninterrupted lines like the stock Land Raider and Rhino chassis. So, this will reduce the mould count, and therefore the cost of these kits. Cermite/Extra Armour and 'Dozer/Destroyer Blades are the first ideas that come to mind, but I have other voices whispering concepts all the time...

 

My first impression of the kit is one of sheer awe; in both raw mass and level of detail, the Spartan delivers. While the Sicaran and Fire Raptor are both amazing-looking kits there are issues and elements with both (build fit issues mostly, but some details) that don't appear to be the same with the Spartan. I won't know until I actually assemble it, but it appears to have a much cleaner fit and less warping than any other large FW kit I've received. The details are also just a bit more refined and polished all around; nothing that makes other kits inferior, but it just seems like whoever made the prototype really did it right and took their time.

 

It will also be effective as a lethal weapon for home defense once assembled; each of the side chassis components that mount the tracks is a massive solid block of resin. The fact that they were able to do a piece so large without it warping in some way is impressive in itself. For as large and bulky as it is, the footprint of the tank (without the center hull that adds the 'beak') is surprisingly close to that of a stock Land Raider. Naturally, I will document the building of this when it starts. I've already done the same for the Fire Raptor progress, so know that I've more than a few things up my sleeves for future updates.

 

The signal may go weak sometimes, but the signal never stops...

 

Edited February 6 by Subtle Discord
+++ Image Data-link ∙ Repair +++

[Aqui]

The signal may go weak sometimes, but signal never stops...

"They can't stop the signal, Mal..."

 

I must admit that if you venture into generic dozer blades for Rhinos, I'd certainly be interested. My Sisters demand decent upgrades!

[DuskRaider]

Spartan kits?! I love you.

[MadSkoll]

First, let me just anwser... For niche models that I would have a hard time getting to, I plan to do Bulk Trim packs that provide several lengths of trim, some with a few corners, some with faction suitable motifs (arrows, blades, lightning, skulls, shields, open fields, etc., etc.), and lots of long lengths. They will require the end builder to cut the strips to length and do a little cleanup work where they meet at corners, but that seems much better then trying to scratch build it all. Trim kits for specific chassis, where it makes sense, will also continue to be designed.

*Mr. Burns voice* Excellent Looking forward to it.