Let The Galaxy Burn! Balefire Legion: 40k again!

[JeffTibbetts]

Some incredible scratch-building. I'm not sure how I missed this plog until now, but I'll be coming back often. 

[thamier]

Some incredible scratch-building. I'm not sure how I missed this plog until now, but I'll be coming back often.

 

thanks alot jeff, and my thread hides in the warp, thats prolly the reason you haven noticed it before

[ephrael]

All of your work in this thread is impressive and inspirational.  I noted that you had some questions about molding and casting.  I may be able to help you, I have some experience in the area.  Send me a pm and I'll be happy to help in whatever way I can.

[thamier]

All of your work in this thread is impressive and inspirational.  I noted that you had some questions about molding and casting.  I may be able to help you, I have some experience in the area.  Send me a pm and I'll be happy to help in whatever way I can.

thank you so much for the kind words, and ill certainly send you a pm and prolly soon.

 

also promiced a few more pictures.

on hindsight i should have made a build with the reaper and battlecannon and other with axe and melta, oh well.

 

if you are wondering why the knight base is white is a plasticard base i made for the chaos knight, the smaller flyer base is tagged on and didnt want to break it free just yet.

 

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/2CC8CA5A-499F-4098-BABA-48EF4DDEF651.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/E0830D9A-DFF0-4FEB-BB0F-B94D7A7B1903.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/9A3689BB-3CBE-4349-AA55-5A75D06375B6.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/4586FE16-C2F2-4C6F-9141-4EF2561F6BBF.jpg

 

today i start on my new spawns woohoo

[KrautScientist]

Those custom weapons are absolutely stunning! And your alternate Chaos Knight conversion is also coming along nicely. This thread is rapidly turning into one of the most exciting chaos threads on the board -- excellent job, mate! :)

[deathspectersgt7]

WOW!!! Great job   

[thamier]

Those custom weapons are absolutely stunning! And your alternate Chaos Knight conversion is also coming along nicely. This thread is rapidly turning into one of the most exciting chaos threads on the board -- excellent job, mate! :)

thanks ks, that is high praise indeed, i settle for the best black legion thread, atlest for now while all these compliments goes to my head.

 

WOW!!! Great job :tu: :tu: 

thanks :)

[Forté]

Problem now is that after you posting pics on the original Knight with your weapons. The plastic kit now looks really plain.

[Brother Ambroz]

Forte that's just a problem with the knight kit, not thamier's knight! It does look amazing and will be even more amazing with paint!

[Forté]

Forte that's just a problem with the knight kit, not thamier's knight! It does look amazing and will be even more amazing with paint!

I know. He'll just have to improve that one too ;)

[thamier]

Problem now is that after you posting pics on the original Knight with your weapons. The plastic kit now looks really plain.

thanks for bringing me back down to terra forte, for a moment there i thought i was too awsome.

 

 

Forte that's just a problem with the knight kit, not thamier's knight! It does look amazing and will be even more amazing with paint!

will be a while but really looking forwardnto painting them

 

 

and also spawn time!!

 

 

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/B8D5C675-A2BB-4A9E-AF99-DC3867D31DFA.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/B82BCA02-39C6-4A92-8AA5-23E17E49D891.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/346CBADB-EBBC-4E92-9F1C-F9595CEEFF0C.jpg

[KrautScientist]

Ohhh, scratchbuilt/kitbashed Gal Vorbak -- you're getting quite ambitious there, mate ;)

[thamier]

Ohhh, scratchbuilt/kitbashed Gal Vorbak -- you're getting quite ambitious there, mate ;)

no no no its spawns spaaaaaaaaawns

[sockwithaticket]

Just outstanding work on those weapons!

[KrautScientist]

 

Ohhh, scratchbuilt/kitbashed Gal Vorbak -- you're getting quite ambitious there, mate

no no no its spawns spaaaaaaaaawns

 

 

Oh, I realise that! It's just that so many people are currently planning to use the FW Gal Vorbak as spawn due to their size. So it IS both, in a way ;)

[thamier]

 

 

Ohhh, scratchbuilt/kitbashed Gal Vorbak -- you're getting quite ambitious there, mate ;)

 

no no no its spawns spaaaaaaaaawns

 

Why not both?

-Tarvick

hmm maybe didnt think of that

 

 

Just outstanding work on those weapons!

thanks sock

[Subtle Discord]

What issues are you having  (or are worried you're going to have) with casting? I'm up to my eyeballs in projects right now, but I can find some time write some step-by-step instructions on my commutes to-and-from college. I'm stuck on the bus 3-4 hours a day, might as well make use of it.

 

Most of the parts should be easier because you've done such a good job of splitting the items; you should be able to lay them on a layer of plasticine and pour rubber over them very easily. Flip, remove the plasticine and pour a second half of the mould. Some objects will require you to 'sink' the item in the plasticine (and you usually want to smooth out the plasticine a bit and make it meet the item cleanly) before you pour the rubber; but then you just flip and remove the plasticine as usual. And finally some items may benefit from being put on a plasticine post and/or support to accommodate undercuts; mount the post with the item on a slab of plasticine as a base, pour rubber over, and as usual flip to remove plasticine and pour the second half of the mould.

 

Find a good object that is about 5-6mm round and use it to poke 5+mm deep holes into the plasticine before you pour the first layer of rubber. These will fill with rubber and become perfect locking pins to hold the two mould halves together. Make sure the item you use is a bit rounded so the pins are also rounded; that way they will slip into their matching hole more easily.

 

Major considerations are the shape of the object and how the resin will enter as the air escapes; you have complete control, depending on how you mount the item to the plasticine. Air exit vents don't need to be huge, but you might need several, and you might need to cut them into the mould if you discover a stubborn spot after making the mould. Take your time to consider which side will face up while the item cures; if it has a blank or low detail side, try to have that face up and any trapped bubbles will collect on that side.

 

Ask some specific questions, and I'll see what I can do for answers.

[thamier]

thanks alot SD, what kind of matrials do you recomend? resin moulds and even platacine?

 

my bigedt concern is the torso not sure it be stable if ibsplit it and ont want it to be a solid chunk of resins i want it to be hollow and two pice torso

[Subtle Discord]

Hollow is fine (better, in fact, because of the reduced weight) as long as you split it cleanly and you do it right. You have the right idea with how you've built the hole-and-post to lock your assemblies together; you're taking cues from manufactured kits, and that's a good thing.

 

When you make the mould you'll fill the inside with plasticine to fill the void, pour the rubber, flip, and remove the plasticine from the void before pouring the second half. As long as the wall thickness of the object is reasonable (1+mm) resin will flow through it easily enough. I recommend using a syringe to fill the mould with resin; it provides just enough pressure to quickly inject the resin into the mould. The alternative is gravity fed mould that will work, but I only do injected, personally.

 

Smooth-On is my preferred brand. Mold Star 30 and Mold Max 30 for my rubber, and Smooth Cast 300 and 305 for casting. The rubber is easy to work with and make moulds that have a great lifespan; Star 30 is a bit easier to work with, but also a bit softer; Max 30 will require a scale and extra care mixing, but makes tougher rubber. The resin is excellent, 300 sets in 12-20 minutes, and 305 takes 30-45 minutes; it's very thin and flows well before hardening into very strong plastic. Both the rubber and plastic have virtually no shrinkage, so parts are very accurate.

[Augustus b'Raass]

Woo thamier, that axe is looking so fricking awesome. I'm going to be using your technique for my next contemptor, which will be handling a huge chain axe made from the new space wolves kit. Thanks! 

 

So many things here to like: that scratch built mega decimator looks particularly menacing - and those scratch built spawn.... VERY ambitious. I am impressed by your attitude of just going for it and trusting your skill and talent to come up with soultions to problems that you haven't foreseen. That's the best way of improving oneself and you are the proof of that axiom. Your thread is turning up to be up there with the greatest!

 

If I may be so bold as to complement Subtle Discord advice, here's a very clear video tutorial by YouTube user XanderXereus on how to make molds and how to cast resin with them. I've used it to create missing parts for my Chaos Warhound Titan (one of the femur armour plates was missing and I created a perfect copy using the tutorial). Combined with Subtle Discords' excellent written advice, I'm sure it will help you in your aim of improving your casts. Good luck man! Keep up the good work!

Edited November 2, 2014 by Augustus b'Raass

[Brother Excedis]

I literally do not have the capability of forcing words out of my thumbs to properly convey my awe and deep appreciatuon for your work. Scratchbuilding to the details (I feel) of Blackadder and painting to compete with the very top on this forum. Just, wow. Edited November 4, 2014 by Brother Excedis

[thamier]

one thing im pondering is how toncast the torso, the problem is if i try to cut it into two halves it will warp and most likely break several places, but if i just make a two part mould it end up being a heavy lump of ressin, have any tips on ho to make a hollow cast of it?

 

thanks for the pointers SD, have any ideas on the torso problem?

 

 

Augustus thanks for the kind word, very glad you feel inspired, thats why i do this and to get ideas and feedback.

it helps us improve.

i am always ambitious, it has to be a challange and be fun.

and if the result ends up being cool even better.

 

I literally do not have the capability of forcing words out of my thumbs to properly convey my awe and deep appreciatuon for your work. Scratchbuilding to the details (I feel) of Blackadder and painting to compete with the very top on this forum. Just, wow.

thatadee smile, very kind, made my day and i feel a little bad i havent had time to reply to younguys before now, thanks for the feedback advice and compliments.

 

hopefully i can keep makeing good stuff and make this the best black legion thread on the b&c ;)

[Subtle Discord]

*Looks at the massive solid chunk of resin that is the Decimator model* What's wrong with huge chunks of solid resin? ;) You might be able to get away with it, just like the Decimator, which is heavy and bulky, but not too top heavy. But you are right to want to try and reduce weight, and try to cast hollow where you can. It saves on resin too.

 

Unfortunately there is no way to cast an object hollow without splitting the item. Correction: There is no easy way to cast an object hollow without splitting the item. There is a method where you partially fill the mould with resin, swirl it around, pour out the excess and let the layer cure. Repeat the process over-and-over to build up a layer of cured resin and then remove the (hollow) item from the mould. It works, but it's slow and wasteful.

 

As long as the base you attach the model to is heavy it will help keep a top-heavy model upright. Find a way to add weight to the base with real stone, metal pieces hidden underneath, or any other item you can use to add weight and lower the center of gravity. Because, unless you can find a way to split the torso, there is no simple way to make the item hollow; the rubber need to reach the back of the part, but the shape has no choice but to trap the rubber you would pour, and it would have no way out, locking the part in the rubber.

 

A good jewelers' saw with a very fine blade could be use to carefully slice the object in two. Since it's a sawing action it can more carefully cut the object. Unfortunately, since the blade will have thickness (no matter how thin it is) you will remove some material during the process. It will only be a faction of a millimeter, but you'll know if that's more than you want to lose. It will also take great care to make the cut very cleanly.

[miteyheroes]

Your work is so inspirational!

[thamier]

Your work is so inspirational!

thank you so much mitey, sorry for the late responce, but better late than never.

 

hey guys im still here just mainly been in lurking mode, been too busy to do much.

 

in limbo trying to find a company that sells smooth on resin and silicone for casting in sweden, no luck so far.

 

been fiddking a bit with scukpting spawns and testing a chosen build

 

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/F180DF5A-16A4-4363-A790-B9D1C2F48F59.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/thamier/work%20in%20progress/F7928C3A-32A7-4746-8114-9C04E7A489B5.jpg

 

this is what i been thinking to use as chosen chaos space marines, but what do you guys think??