BA Today

[DemonGSides]

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1515455232&sr=8-4&keywords=pin+vise

 

for christmas this year, has quite a few different size bits.  I don't know if there's a bit big enough for the largest magnets but should be good.

[Father Mapple]

I just buy drill bits at the DIY store, and use a hand drill with a locking chuck. If they'll go through metal or wood, plastic is no problem, and for the bits to go through metal, well... There's some to go though concrete, so something will be tough enough. The hand drill makes sure I don't go too far. Edited January 9, 2018 by Father Mapple

[Paladin777]

Don’t use concrete drill bits, they work on a different principle than other bits. Metal cutting bits will work the best. (This comes from an electrician who’s drill is practically attached to my arm...)

[Jolemai]

Considering my alternative is a hammer drill I really need something else!

 

I suppose I'm just after a small hand-held thing like a Dremel but cheaper?

[Father Mapple]

You don't need anything motorized for models. I tried that for metal models and even on slow setting a drill went too quick.

 

I was making a joke about the concrete bits.

[Paladin777]

With a motorized drill you need to be exceptionally steady and be really good at feathering the trigger. If you get good, you can reliably get it down to about 2 rotations peen second. (With a 20v dewalt cordless). It’s not for everyone...

[Jolemai]

Then I simply need a pin vice(?) that can hold larger drill bits.

[deathspectersgt7]

Angel Vermillion Sgt almost done.

[Panzer]

Then I simply need a pin vice(?) that can hold larger drill bits.

Basically, yeah.

Edited January 9, 2018 by sfPanzer

[Riot Earp]

I had an 1500 point game vs chaos.

I will write it down in the next hour. It involves lemartes, mephiston,chaplain dread, death company, an leviathan dread, 3 x 5 intercessors and two quad guns. Stay tuned. :)

[Panzer]

Does anybody know whether there is a Thunderhammer plus arms that hold the hammer like this guy his axe?

 

I kinda really want to give my Captain that pose. I think that Enginseer looks menacing as hell. :D

[Charlo]

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Captain-Lord-Executioner

[Panzer]

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marine-Captain-Lord-Executioner

Well....suddenly I have a lot less work with my Captain than I thought. Thanks! :D

[robofish7591]

Its not quite the same, but the deathwatch killteam kit has a couple two handed thunder hammers that are pretty cool.

[Panzer]

I'm kinda jealous that Deathwatch got actual rules for two-handed Thunderhammers while Deathcompany didn't.

[robofish7591]

It would be pretty cool if thunder hammers just got an additional profile so you could choose to use them as one or two handed weapons.

[sockwithaticket]

From the FW perspective:

Korvydae

Mk.II Command Squad

 

[brother_b]

From the FW perspective:

 

Korvydae

 

Mk.II Command Squad

Woah I like that MK 2 guy...

[sebs_evo7]

Then I simply need a pin vice(?) that can hold larger drill bits.

I have a pin vice but also a hand drill which is useful if you have a hobby vice or the model you are working on is large, like drilling out rhino exhausts. Unsure what the uk has but they are in Bunnings here

[Ekfud]

 

Then I simply need a pin vice(?) that can hold larger drill bits.

I have a pin vice but also a hand drill which is useful if you have a hobby vice or the model you are working on is large, like drilling out rhino exhausts. Unsure what the uk has but they are in Bunnings here

 

Yep - something like this... https://www.bunnings.com.au/stanley-8mm-handyman-hand-drill_p5611844

Although I'm sure they can be found for much cheaper in the US/UK. Bunnings (as do most things) get a markup for shipping to Oz... 

 

Having said that - for magnets I usually just use the GW sizes up to the biggest in their pin vice and then work up through 3-6mm drill bits just held with a bit of masking tape at the back end. Generally 3mm is what I use for shoulders or jump packs, so the 3mm bit is just to widen the pin vice hold out. Also makes it far more accurate to have a 1mm hole first. 

 

*Slightly ashamed to admit I got the GW drill - I had a bunch of ancient metal GK models that needed intense pinning and the grip helped to work into tin.

It has been a workhorse for putting pins into resin bases, bolter barrels etc since. So despite giving them moar monies... I have come to quite like it. 

[Damon Nightman]

Hey guys, I have a rules question that probably belongs in another thread... but I like you guys more than anyone else on the inter webs

 

If I have a two units of terminators drop down and then drop down another unit right behind them, can my opponent shoot through the termies and target the other unit? I thought that the unit in the back would be safe, but others are saying you can just shoot through any unit (friendly or foe) unless it's a completely LOS blocking tank or something.

 

My opponent was using tau in my last game. He put a big unit of drones and a big unit of kroot in front of some fire warriors to the point where you really couldn't see much of the fire warriors through the other units, but he said I could still target the fire warriors with my infantry and shoot through the kroot and drones and he could shoot me with his fire warriors as well.

 

Is this correct? This just seems silly to me for some reason... also I was planning on hiding some VVs behind shooty termies for one of my lists!

[Paladin777]

From memory: It is my understanding that your opponent is correct.

[Panzer]

Hey guys, I have a rules question that probably belongs in another thread... but I like you guys more than anyone else on the inter webs

 

If I have a two units of terminators drop down and then drop down another unit right behind them, can my opponent shoot through the termies and target the other unit? I thought that the unit in the back would be safe, but others are saying you can just shoot through any unit (friendly or foe) unless it's a completely LOS blocking tank or something.

 

My opponent was using tau in my last game. He put a big unit of drones and a big unit of kroot in front of some fire warriors to the point where you really couldn't see much of the fire warriors through the other units, but he said I could still target the fire warriors with my infantry and shoot through the kroot and drones and he could shoot me with his fire warriors as well.

 

Is this correct? This just seems silly to me for some reason... also I was planning on hiding some VVs behind shooty termies for one of my lists!

Sure he can. Only Characters with less than 10 wounds are safe from getting shot at when another unit is closer. ;)

[Damon Nightman]

Darn, I was thinking a wall of terminators was more than enough to block LOS to other, smaller infantry behind them, but I guess not!

 

Now I have to wonder why shooting into combats is considered too dangerous to do while fire warriors are shooting through blobs of thirty kroot that are touching base to base lol

 

Edit: just to clarify, I'm talking about shooting through friendly or enemy units that are blocking over 50% of the view of another infantry unit behind them as if the first unit didn't exist.. Not just having one unit close and another non character unit further away unobscured

Edited January 10, 2018 by Brother Lemartes

[Panzer]

Darn, I was thinking a wall of terminators was more than enough to block LOS to other, smaller infantry behind them, but I guess not!

 

Now I have to wonder why shooting into combats is considered too dangerous to do while fire warriors are shooting through blobs of thirty kroot that are touching base to base lol

Because it's a game of abstraction. In melee your target and friendly soldiers are VERY close together and in constant movement while a unit simply walking behind another is a MUCH easier target to shoot at.