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So no replies huh? Well. Boo.
Maybe I need to throw more updates at you! *throws*

I've been carrying on with my gaming board.
I'm still trying to keep progress into manageable chunks though. I have actually done more than I am currently writing about, but I'll save that for another day.


So, with the planning (mostly) done I think it is time we crack on, yes?


Step two! The layout.

You will need;

  • Your Plans,
  • Six 2ft x 2ft pieces of MDF (All the same depth. Mine is about 12mm thick),
  • Twenty four or more 1ft by 1ft Square cork tiles. (I bought 3 packs of 9 tiles),
  • Cork Adhesive (I used Unibond - Super PVA adhesive and sealer),
  • Some heavy stuff/clamps might be helpful to ensure the bond,
  • Craft Knife,
  • Steel Straight Edge (To cut against. I used a wood saw),
  • Pen,
  • Paper,
  • Pencil,
  • Ruler (12inch),
  • Tape Measure.


LET'S DO THIS!

The first bit of this is pretty straight forward...but easy to mess up, so be careful.

Glue the 4 of the 1x1 tiles to a 2x2 piece of wood, ensuring they all match up evenly and cover the board's surface.
Leave to dry. Repeat as many times as necessary (For this board that was 3).

med_gallery_33843_5272_307176.jpg

While they are drying it is time to plough straight into phase 2

Straight roads.

First off you want to draw out the road.
Using the tape measure/ruler/magic find the middle of the board.
Measure out 2.5 inches either side of it and mark it out (I recommend doing this about 2/3 times along the middle of the board to make the matching up easier).
Draw up the lines to match the board's edge and you have your road template.
Now do a similar thing with the cork tiles.
Using the template you have just drawn on the board as a guide, mark 2.5 inches from the tile edge onto the tile (I had to use a sharpie as opposed to a pencil for this). Match them up. Do this on as many cork tiles as necessary (in my case that was 8).

And voila! Road!


med_gallery_33843_5272_1195479.jpg

Part two is the cutting.

Line up the steel edge along that line (Whichever side you are comfortable with, I went with the side that would end up with the most left on to try and minimise damage to what will be the pavement and such).

med_gallery_33843_5272_1244179.jpg

Using the craft knife, cut along the line against your edge.
Patience is key.
If you go at it too fast you'll tear the cork. This will be more hassle than it is worth to fix latter.
Rinse and repeat and you should end up with this;

med_gallery_33843_5272_152478.jpg

Here's a shot for height;

med_gallery_33843_5272_1217354.jpg

Stick it down! Weigh it down or clamp away.
Anndddd...


Phase 3. Bend.

This is the most complicated bit of the build thus far (and it isn't even that hard).
It had me stumped for a while (When I figured out how to do it I kicked myself for wasting almost half an hour trying to be clever about it).


First off draw the road template as normal on the cork (After doing the other two you'll have the knack now).
Then turn it 90 degree and do it again.
You should end up with something like this;


med_gallery_33843_5272_1343328.jpg

Now to plan the curved bit. Maths maybe...

med_gallery_33843_5272_761393.jpg

Nope!

I'm sure you could use maths to do this. But I am lazy. I used a Spray can lid.
Seriously!
Line up a spray can lid (I used GW's black primer), and draw the curve.
This curve needs to be on the inside out outside edge as seen in this picture
(Note; I drew another square on the inside curve to make it easier to get the
edge; you just do the same for both);


Cutting this out is slightly tricky
Don't attempt the curved bits yet. Just cut out the block shape, taking care not to damage/remove where the curve should be.
Seeing as this hasn't been glued down it should be relatively straight forward.


For the inside corner you start by cutting as you usually would along the now inside road edge.
When you hit the 'corner' you stop, flip the board, and do the other inside edge.

Then you start on the outside edge. Here it is important to stop before the curve.
You can either just go by eye, or mark them as I did in the picture above (I was over cautious with the 'just in case' space);

Instead of trying to do the curve, I cut along line XY. This meant that the core of the road could be removed.
The curves were then just a case of whittling down the remaining cork with the crafting knife;
Shave off the excess form the other corner and you should end up with this;


med_gallery_33843_5272_1389721.jpg

Glue that bend down!

med_gallery_33843_5272_631080.jpg


And BOOM!

Core of the board complete.

It has no details yet... but it is a great starting block.

The next stage is basing... but after spending days doing this I reckon I'm going to have myself a break to do more experimentation/other stuff.
I will post my findings here!

However, in the meantime...

med_gallery_33843_5272_766576.jpg

Comments, Criticism, Stories and general chatter about anything covering in this WIP more than welcome!

Hi there guys.

I did a quick mock up of the two shoulder pad colour schemes, just to have a actual realistic image in front of me.
I thought I'd share it here with you, so you can add some feedback if you please:

Front view:

med_gallery_33843_5957_1356266.jpg

Top Down:

med_gallery_33843_5957_1214821.jpg

I have had some feedback from various other sources, but I am still undecided.
Someone suggested one pad of each... sort of like a 'DeathWatch' mark.

So I did a mock up in the good old Bolter and Chainsword painter...

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pU1To7nTXgk/UcI0SsM_KiI/AAAAAAAAALA/SnqK7ULSBEE/s1600/sister.php.jpg

I'm not convinced personally...

I think it might be making things unnecessarily complicated, but maybe that is
just me.

As usual any comments or criticism is greatly appreciated and encouraged.

Until next time!

nice progress on the board, how many different layouts will you do?

 

They remind me of the old lego streets

 

Don't really know to be honest.

I think there were 7 unique combinations or something like that.

In the future I'll be adding new 2x2 squares so the board can be mixed up even more/ be made bigger for apocalypse.

 

Like in lego movie maker? :D

An almost guaranteed happening...

Updates have ground to a halt.

 

Yeah, sorry guys. I have been doing stuff... But as my room is being decorated I don't have the means to put up a proper update.

Also I suffered a set back on the board (well a couple to be honest), more on that soon.

 

My room should be back to normal (with added Gubbins) by Friday. With any luck I'll have a full update ready by then/ Monday.

 

Until then!

Edited by DarKHaZZ13

Hey guys. I'm back. The past couple of weeks have been problematic.

Firstly, I had some decorating done to my bedroom which killed my ability to do anything on my computer for almost a whole week.
Also this meant there was nowhere I could paint comfortably.

Secondly, I ran into a couple of roadblocks with my board. I have overcome them, but it was a bit of a setback.
More on that later.


In the interim I did some other stuff. I did some of my Dwarf stuff (find that on the underhive hero or my post in dakkadakka)

Back to PA...
I finally got around to writing a new 'take on all opponents' 1,500 points list for Sisters of Battle.

  • St Celestine
  • Uriah Jacobs
  • Squad of Seraphim - 7 Sisters + 2 pairs of hand flamers + Eviscerator
  • Battle sister squad 1 - 10 sisters + Multi-Melta + storm bolter + Simulacrum Imperialis + combo-flamer
  • Battle sister squad 2 - 10 sisters + 2 Melta guns + combi-flamer + Simulacrum Imperialis
    Rhino+ extra armour + search lights
  • Battle sister squad 3 - 10 sisters + 2 flamers + Melta bombs
    Rhino + extra armour + search lights
  • Exorcist
  • Exorcist
  • Squad of Retributors - 10 Sisters + 4 Heavy Bolters + Simulacrum Imperialis
  • Aegis defence line + Quad Gun


Total
1,500 pts.


It is hard to talk tactics with a 'take on all' list.
The general plan is for squad 1 to hold the home objective accompanied by the Retributors. These will lay down supporting fire whilst being surrounded by the Aegis defence line; this gives them their 3+ armour save, 6+ invulnerable save, and a 4+ cover save. I am hoping that this will make the two squads fairly survivable.

Accompanying these two squads will be Uriah Jacobs.
He will primarily be dropped into squad 1. As well as holding the home objective it will be their task, and Jacobs, will be to operate the quad gun.
This gives me the army's only available anti-air option. Which with a 3+/6+ 4+ cover and Jacobs feel no pain, should be fairly survivable and defensible. In addition, Jacobs gives the unit he joins an extra attack. Something which could prove vital for defending that home objective.

If there is no home objective/ no objectives at all, squad 1 will support wherever the fighting is thickest/provide support where necessary, with Jacobs in tow.


The other squads can vie for the other objectives.
The rhinos give the sisters some flexibility in which objective/area they focus on. 1 Squads is tooled for anti armour; 2 Meltas, and the other infantry; 2 flamers. They both have contingency plans; the Melta bombs and combi flamer.


Anything tough will be tied up by the seraphim. Again, the seraphim's main objective is anti-infantry; the Eviscerator does give the unit a bit of oomph when it comes to combating armour. As for heavily armoured infantry, well, that is where Celestine comes into play. She's dirty hard for her points cost. against armies with decent elite units the Seraphim pretty much act as a Celestine delivery unit.


I know it is not a perfect tactical framework by any stretch of the imagination, but with a decent mix of speed, and firepower, I am hoping that the list will remain flexible enough to have a decent stab at any army.

Any comments on the list, feel free to drop me a comment.

Anyway. Enough text. Here's some, very much work in progress, pictures of the army (without the defence line).

med_gallery_33843_5957_965454.jpg


I did only have 5 seraphim, so I had to convert a couple extra. For the Superior I just used the canoness model, I converted to old superior to hold a bolt pistol. The second hand flamer sister was slightly more complex, but I think it turned out okay.

I'll walk you all through it, just in case you wanna pinch the idea :tongue.:

Start off with your base model. I chose the sister lobbing the grenade (seemed fitting/easier than the others to convert).

med_gallery_33843_5957_809020.jpg

Cut away the Gun;

med_gallery_33843_5957_503379.jpg

And now to build the hand flamer. I tried to base it off the metal sisters version.
You will need;
A knife,
Some glue,
A Bolt pistol,
A Metla gun,
A Flamer.

med_gallery_33843_5957_276402.jpg

First off, cut off the bolt pistols barrel and put it to one side. Then replace it with the muzzel from the metla gun

med_gallery_33843_5957_849058.jpg

Next, cut away the muzzle from the flamer. Gently remove the pre-igniter,

med_gallery_33843_5957_1344119.jpg

Finally, attach the pre-igniter underneath the 'hand flamers' muzzle, and attach the bolt pistol barrel to the end of the muzzle.
For added Flamerness, cut away the bolt pistols magazine and replace it with a flamer canister.

med_gallery_33843_5957_691491.jpg

Stick it on your base model...

med_gallery_33843_5957_940898.jpg

And you are done!

med_gallery_33843_5957_683606.jpg

Anyway. That is enough about the sisters for now.


Back to the Gaming board.

Well. Yeah. Delays. I guess this is broken down in to two parts.

1). I didn't have the Bitz I felt I needed to create a realistic (within reason) looking gaming board. So I have been building and acquiring where necessary the Bitz/tools to make the Bitz I need. I only need a couple more and I should be golden.

and

2). Basically the glue went blergh. While it sticks the cork to the MDF pretty well, under stress it eventually losses its adhesiveness. This really wasn't too much of a problem, but I wanted this to not only look like a quality board, but to feel like one too. So I decided I'd add some extra reinforcement.

So this bit is optional I guess.... but I'd recommend it if you have access to the tools.


You will need.

Your gaming board,
A staple Gun,
An ample supply of staple gun staples,
A hammer.


Very simple. Staple along every edge of each cork tile; both sides. Hammer them flat if necessary.

DONE.

med_gallery_33843_5272_484136.jpg

Yup. That was it. But I tell you what? It takes bloody ages to do!
I can't see there being any issues now. The next post will be about experimenting with features, or in other words, MOAR PLANNING!

The imperial administration moves slow my friends. Patience is a virtue!


Comments, Criticism and all that jazz welcome.

Until next time

Edited by DarKHaZZ13
  • 1 month later...

This is going to be an outrageously long post. I apologise in advance if your attention cannot be held for this long.
This is the 'catch up' post after the B&C's database error... So it contains all the things I've posted here in the last month in one go....

So, yeah. Enjoy that.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

TO BOARD!


I do believe we are back to the research/theory phase.
This
pretty much focuses on the part that are to be added to the road pieces
of the board. The blank squares take care of themselves.
So, to make this easier to follow we'll have a 'Theory' and 'Practise' section for each detail.

First off...

Curbs.
Theory:

After
having a walk around the area I live; risking looking like a mentally
deranged person, I set about measuring the curb slabs.
I found they were roughly 3ft long.
This is roughly half the height of an average human male (I am 6ft 2/3).
So, the height of the 'staple' figure of Warhammer 40k, the space marine, is roughly 3cm.
Half of the space marines height is roughly 1.5 cm.
The curb for my roads would be 1.5 cm each.

A square tile is 24 inches long, or roughly 60.96 cm. To make it easier round it down to 60cm.
60 divided by 1.5 = 40. This is the number of slabs per side of the road.
To fully fit out a road this number needs to be multiplied by two, which brings us to 80 curb slabs per straight road square.
As I have two of these pieces, the total curb slabs I'd need thus far would be 160.

There is also the issue of the curved road square.
The way to do this is ignore the curve for now and concentrate on the straight sections of this square.
There are two long, and two short straights.
2 long = 14 1/2 inch = 36.88 (rounded to 36) x 2 = 72/1.5 = 48
2 short = 9 1/2 inch = 24.13 (rounded to 24) x 2 = 48/1.5 = 32
This brings us to a total of 80 slabs for the square, and 240 for the board.


Practise.
The first hurdle is what material to use?
I opted for tea stirrers/lolly pop sticks.


med_gallery_33843_5272_314726.jpg



Seriously. Cheap and easy to get hold of!
You can realistically get 8 slabs out of a stirrer; 240/8 = 30 stirrers. McDonalds, you had it coming
:tongue.:.

med_gallery_33843_5272_303616.jpg

So lets test this yeah?

med_gallery_33843_5272_1314055.jpg


Nice!
A
point I should bring up, when placing the slabs there will, inevitably,
be a little bit of a gap; so 2 slabs side by side will probably take
more space than the 3 cm total than they should. This is why I rounded
down initially. However, it may turn out that a couple of slabs might
have to be cut down/not use the full 40 per side.

Anyway, ONWARD!

Cut out the slabs...


med_gallery_33843_5272_1155728.jpg

And glue them down

med_gallery_33843_5272_1271903.jpg


Make sure to keep them straight as you go along...

med_gallery_33843_5272_1315675.jpg



And Voila!

med_gallery_33843_5272_194000.jpg



Straight
road done. Do this for all your straight roads... I know it is tedious
as hell, but hey! I think it looks pretty good, and is pretty cheap to
do.


That brings me on to the curved curb slabs.
This is far more difficult. in theory it should maintain similarity with the 1.5 curbs.
However in practise it wasn't that simple.

The
first thing to do is, on a piece of plasticard, draw out the larger
curve section, using the same method you did for the actual curve in the
road (A spray paint lid, remember :wink:).

med_gallery_33843_5272_1620732.jpg



It should look something like that.
Now, file it/cut it down to the correct width and cut it into pieces (about four).
Use these pieces to trace/cast another set for the inner curve (You'll only need three).

It should look something like this:

Outer curve

med_gallery_33843_5272_1556550.jpg


Inner curve (I apologise about the blurriness).

med_gallery_33843_5272_854014.jpg

And that is it! Curbs done!


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I have been working on my Aegis Defence line.
I wanted to make it more fitting with the army's aesthetic without going over the top.
There isn't much you can add to the walls, so I just stuck on a couple of Adeptus ministorum icons and other sister iconography;


Enjoy the reems of pictures with very few words...

med_gallery_33843_5957_1113606.jpg

med_gallery_33843_5957_1132092.jpg

med_gallery_33843_5957_771377.jpg



med_gallery_33843_5957_946651.jpg



med_gallery_33843_5957_380830.jpg




And now for some more words.

The Aegis defence lines Quad auto cannon is... well. Rubbish.
I really think it is very lack lustre in appearance. However, the kit itself is extremely versatile.
If
you've ever seen the sprue you'll understand. The base is the same size
as a turret base, essentially making it able to swap around with other
turrets from other tanks.
You can see where this is going right?


med_gallery_33843_5957_1181023.jpg



Yeah boi! Sisters AA gun!

med_gallery_33843_5957_521024.jpg



med_gallery_33843_5957_172066.jpg



All I've done here is magnetise the ADL's auto cannons to the Sisters of Battle's repressor turret weapon mount.
I've
then glues the ADL's weapon mount to the back to make it look a bit
more substantial (And AA gun firing solid slug weapons would need some
form of stabilisation after all).
All I need to do now is glue on a SOB head and the arms and she'll be ready to paint.


YUP! Take that Air unit spam.

I say that.... but in all seriousness, I'm not entirely confident that a single ADL will solve my aircraft issues.
But I have no other options (without taking allies), so, it will have to do!

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

And continuing...


In my fervent need to play some 40k, I set about writing up a some lists.

I've already posted my 1,500pts list, but I have also written a 400pts list (40k in 40 mins anyone?).



I'm not going to bore you with it, as you've already seen all the models in it.

Well...

All except one.



med_gallery_33843_5957_1206112.jpg



Now, I am honestly not one to bash GW. As far as things go I'm fairly pro workshop;

but...

OH MY GOD!!

I have never hated putting something together so much in all my god damn life!

I am glad I only have to build one of these (which is why it is still
NOT finished. Arms to be added and legs attached to the torso :/).



I will be glad when this model is done. I don't even want to paint it. Blergh.


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

A while back I mentioned I was waiting on some bitz so I could moved forward.

Well, a week or two ago they arrived. I did all the stuff last week, so here it all is broken down into sections.


Drains.

Real streets have drains right? So mine will too.

After having a mooch around I decided to try a couple of drain types out.

Simply put, for an imperial world, the brass etch drain from the GW urban basing kit is by far the best looking option.

Insert prototype.


med_gallery_33843_5272_161747.jpg

So theory time (boo!).


I went out for a walk to figure this out.

On my road drains are roughly 20 curb slabs apart.

In my previous theory post I've stated a slab is approx 3ft long.

So;

3 x 20 = 60 / 2 = 30 cm

A board side is 2 ft / 61 cm = 40 slabs of curb.


So we end up with two drains a side.

Two drains, two board half's. The logical step is to stick them in the middle of each half.


This leaves the drain on the other side. When I was walking around, I
saw that drains tended to alternate on each side of the road.

In which case the next logical step is to stick a single drain on the
opposite side of the rod, in the middle of the board; the middle of the
two drains.


Here's the result;

med_gallery_33843_5272_646264.jpg


med_gallery_33843_5272_155931.jpg


Drains done!

Next step. Lamp posts.


Same reasoning as the drains.

If you walk down a urban road, you're are fairly likely to find yourself basking in the light provided by a lmap post.


Again, only one option jumped out at me for this;


med_gallery_33843_5272_169047.jpg

Cities of death lamp post? YES!

Theory time...


Lampposts turned out to be between 55 - 70 curb slabs apart.


3 x 50 = 150 / 2 = 75cm

3 x 75 = 225 / 2 = 112.5


Quite a large distance. Certainly there can only be one per side of the
road, and due to the modular nature of the board having varying
positioning of features is not possible. Modularity won out in the end
so I decided to have 1 on either side of the road (again, like drains
they tend to alternate), and equal distance away from the board edge,
and quite far away from each other.


In the end I went for having the lampposts 10cm from the board edge; 50cm apart.

This means that each lamp post will always be 60cm apart from the next lamppost on their side of the road.


med_gallery_33843_5272_335026.jpg

Now, I couldn't exactly attach them to board; it wasn't based or painted, and painting them would be a nightmare.

More importantly they were bound to get damaged during storage.

Enter the magnets!


med_gallery_33843_5272_334579.jpg


I've put one in each lamppost, and
one in their corresponding position on the board; 10 cm in, both sides
of the road, on both board half's.

This means that I can detach them at will (painting, storage, to remove
obstruction in game...) and it will help to retain the boards modular
nature. The board pieces will be able to placed anywhere, and maintain
the lampposts distance.


Boom.


NEXT!



Another feature of your local streets and roads is...

Manholes.

T - H - E - O - R - Y


Very simple this time. there is one every 60 slabs / 2ft (roughly).

So that is 1 per board piece.

The only way to keep the manholes 2 ft away from each other is to put it directly in the middle of the road.



As for what to use there were a few candidates;

A space marine top circular hatch thing...,

The top of a Tau Shield Drone,

An Ork Hatch.


In the end, I went with the most imperial one, The Space Marine ting... pictured here.

gallery_33843_5272_106.jpg



I'd post what it looks like, but it is boring as hell.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Forgiveness is only earned through righteous sacrifice in the Emperors name!



Just a short sisters update today.

I finished the Penitent engine.



med_gallery_33843_5957_449046.jpg



med_gallery_33843_5957_495202.jpg



Nothing else to say apart from 'I am glad that is over.'

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

That brings me up to date. Comments and Criticism welcome.

-DH-

Update time? Yes?
No comments? Don't care!

Forward for the big E!

So, yeah... guess what happened (*cough*hobby*cough*ethos*cough*).

I stripped my sisters and started form the ground up. So that post before that said 1,500 points built?
Invalid.

med_gallery_33843_5957_674981.jpg


Instead of waiting around with this project though, I've steamed ahead.
I want my Sisters up and running as soon as possible, while maintaining a decent standard.

So,
Step one; Mould lines, Barrels... in process, almost done.

Step two; Basses!
I want my sisters to be kind of in theme with my urban board... but at the same time I want them to stand out.
The theme I've gone for is 'ruined chapel/ adeptus ministorum building.' To represnt this I've used plasticard to make marble like slabs and smashed them up a bit; added cracks, chipping, bullet ricochet marks...
Enough talk. WiP pictures!


med_gallery_33843_5957_823165.jpg

2.5 x 2.5 squares form the marble slabs.

med_gallery_33843_5957_188501.jpg
Cut them up, and scuff them up a bit...

med_gallery_33843_5957_1275084.jpg
Boom!

med_gallery_33843_5957_66866.jpg
*Shudders*

Only one is fully done, but they're almost their.... just the wear and tear to be finished and that is my whole army (except for Celestine's) basses.

Speaking of Celestine...
I'm using Celestine as my Primary HQ, but she will actually represent Cannoness Superior of L'Ordre des Angels.
While I want the model to recognisably St. Celestine, I want it to be different enough to obviously not be her. Most of this will be down to the paint job, but I felt a few subtle conversions wouldn't go a miss.
Enjoy!


med_gallery_33843_5957_108900.jpg

Simple enough really.
Remove the dove, stick on the Cannoness Melta Pistol.
Remove the Ardent blade (too flimsy looking if you ask me), and stick on the Cannoness power sword (With a little bit of vambrace still attached).
I need to fill in the gap left by the joint. I might make it look like bionics to help explain her miraculous survivability.


On a similar, but apparently far more complicated topic; I seem to have run into a bit of a problem, and his name is Uriah Jacobs.
While I own him, I hate the model.
As such I want to create my own High Priest, whom is head of the Adeptus Ministorum on my Orders home world.
All I have so far is this;


med_gallery_33843_5957_1168027.jpg

med_gallery_33843_5957_737521.jpg


Not much, I know. Any suggestions on bitz to use? Primarily after what body/legs/arms I could use.
Advice and suggestion greatly appreciated as I'm stumped.


While trying to upload the pictures my phone bugged out.... so I actually have finished building my Seraphim squad - The Angels wings.
But they can wait until another day.

Comments and criticism more than welcome!

By faith and fire my friends.

Edited by DarKHaZZ13

Jaspcat
Your love for the emperors daughters is an inspiration brother do them justice with an amazing paint job

Thanks Jaspcat! I'm going to build them all first I think.

Then while I'm painting them, I can start building one of my other armies.

That way I have projects to flick between to keep me motivated and/or allow me to have a break from either.

But until then here is the promised update.

The Angel and her Wings.

med_gallery_33843_5957_851648.jpg

St Celestine/ High Cannoness 'Abdiel Nathaniel, The Angel of Faith and Fire.'

med_gallery_33843_5957_25117.jpg

Cannoness/ Acting Seraphim Superior: ;

Well updates are happening. Comments or not.


This one is a quick gaming board update, as well as a sisters update, with a little added something else at the end.
Curious? Read on.
Not curious? Give it a chance! You might like it.


So....
Gaming Board.

A bit of a quick one.
I did some tests for a suitable basing material (Sorry there are no pictures for the majority of this, just words).

I picked three types of basing sand for consideration.

The old style coarse Games Workshop sand,
The new style fine Games Workshop sand,
and 'Calcium Sand,' from a local pet shop (Used for sand based animal habitats; Lizards and such).


Test1: Basic glue and sanding.

Coarse looks good for a bit of ruble, but is way too rocky for general purpouse in a urban environment.
Fine is a bit too fine, but has great flat coverage.
Calcium is a nice medium.

After doing this test I concluded that the Calcium sand was the best general basing material, however I was was not satisfied with the coverage.
As with all basing sand it tended to rub off a bit too easily. I know another coat of glue would do the trick, but I wanted to give it something more....robust.


Test2: Pollyfiller and sanding.

Basically mixing pollyfiller up and adding sand.
This works surprisingly well.
The Calcium sand looks great as urban wasteland, where as the fine sand make for a great tarmac effect. Coarse sand didn't go down too well.

I decided that was how I was gonna do things... then add a bit of glue and sand to fill any gaps.
So here is my wasteland board tile:


med_gallery_33843_5272_20727.jpg

All of them look pretty much similar.
Gonna spray them Humbrol Tank Grey Spray and then work from there (I managed to get a load cheap when Model Zone went into administration).
I've sprayed one so far. Two to go!

I've actually put the tarmac on the roads too... didn't get any pictures mind. I'll post them next time.


Moving on!

L'Ordre Des Angels - Sisters!

I've refurbished and based another squad (almost). This time I went with retributors.
I need to do the backpacks, and the heavy bolters, but the important/ time consuming parts are done!

Bolter Sisters.


med_gallery_33843_5957_1047074.jpg

Heavy Bolter Sisters.

med_gallery_33843_5957_596293.jpg

Sister Superior and Sister with Simulacrum Imperialis.

med_gallery_33843_5957_539105.jpg

Squad Shot.

med_gallery_33843_5957_604607.jpg

Completed sisters so far (on one of my sprayed wasteland pieces).

med_gallery_33843_5957_1174739.jpg

That is some bad picture quality (good enough to spy some tarmac in the background mind ;])

2/6 Squad completed; 3 x 10 Battle Sisters and some Dominions (for my 400 point list) to go (Oh and Celestine's base and a counts as Jacobs).


Sisters update.
Done.



Oh yeah, the little added something.

This will require some foregrounding.
A while back I was discussing the hobby with a friend.
This friend is whom originally got me into the hobby (and probably why I've ended up doing Salamanders).

We were talking about how a substantial portion of our friends were into strategy games and board games. Which brought us on to 40k.
A couple of these friends have expressed interest in the hobby before, just not the financial backing, time or resolve to build an army.
We thought it would be great if we could get these folk to play.
But how to go about doing this, without lending them one of my armies (as currently I have no playable armies XD), or throwing proxies around?

One of the pulls of 40k is making your own list, and playing games with nicely painted armies on awesome battlefields (like pretty much all table top war games). So this is what needs to be done.
Then it hit us.
A House army.

I find myself in a unique position: I have way more Space Marines than I have use for.
So the basic idea is, in adittion to my armies, I will also be building a basic set of Space Marines for any, none hobbyists to get stuck in with.
They will be built, and painted, and ready to rock; just like a board game.

If they don't like the game, then fair enough. If they decide they do, then they can keep using the house army. If they decide they want to use 'X unit' instead of 'my Y unit,' then they can go out and buy that for themselves/ donate one to the house army. Thus getting folk started in a more exciting way.


Anyway, enough writing.
I did a test model for it....well, I started one at any rate.


med_gallery_33843_6479_292336.jpg

I've decided to wait until the new codex lands before continuing with either Space Marine project.

But what do you guys think?
Yay house army, or neigh?
What do you think about the test marine
?



Any comments/criticism on this warmly welcomed, as with anything you see on my WiP, which again, I'd love to hear from you guys about.

Anyway, enough chatter. Thanks for reading guys.

Peace!


-DH-

  • 2 weeks later...

deathspectersgt7

Yes house army like the yellow.

Thanks Brother. I do Like the yellow idea. I reckon I'll toy around with it... gonna wait for the codex to drop first/finish building my sisters...

Whichever comes first.

Speaking about that... I finished another squad;

Superior and Imagifier

med_gallery_33843_5957_28508.jpg

Sisters with Melta guns

med_gallery_33843_5957_779566.jpg

Sisters with bolters

med_gallery_33843_5957_592586.jpg

Complete squad

med_gallery_33843_5957_359177.jpg

Cut down 5 sister dominion squad for 400pts

med_gallery_33843_5957_694718.jpg

It was only after I finished these models and took the pictures that I realised this squad is meant to have a Superior with combi-flamer.

Mid conversion of said superior I slipped with my craft knife and cut down into the fat layers in my thumb.

Expect extended delays on the modelling front.

Sorry for the short update. I'm not in a very good frame of mind.

Not had the best couple of days.

Peace out.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, I'm back!

If you've read my previous post I did some damage to my thumb, which fortunately has healed now.

In truth it healed a while back, but I went on holiday to Burnham-On-Sea... never mind eh?

Anyway. Updates!

We'll start this off with HQ's.

In a previous post I was complaining about the Uriah Jacobus model.

well, I finally came up with a solution/ a couple of possibilities;

med_gallery_33843_5957_396644.jpg

or

med_gallery_33843_5957_305574.jpg

Simple conversion really. A bit of plasticard tubing, a sisters banner and my custom shotgun on a redemptionist body.

I'm not sure about which head I prefer; The original redemptionist skull with priestly hat, or the manic, on-fire flagellent head.

Opinions on this would be most welcome (I'll try and get a better picture of the faces).

On to the other HQ conundrum... Celestine.

My main issues with Celestine were;

A) Her weapons - not a fan of the 'flaming sword' concept. Would much prefer two weapons/ remove the stupid dove thing.

:cool.: Her cherubs - I wanted her to fly, but look similar in design to my seraphim.

C) Her base - I wanted her to remain somewhat airborne and have a fairly decorative, yet not too ostentatious, base.

I think I got it.... what do you reckon?

med_gallery_33843_5957_1022597.jpg

med_gallery_33843_5957_543763.jpg

med_gallery_33843_5957_1072014.jpg

med_gallery_33843_5957_615737.jpg

Stuck with the conversion I showcased previously, but finally got round to adding a base (the weird thing shes pinned to is the candle stick murder weapon from cluedo, but painted gold).

I intend, like many of my sisters models, to add candles and all that jazz to the basses; that stick will certainly be getting one to hide the pin.

The two models on the base are just some old redemptionist models I happened to have lying around.

HQ's - Done.

Now, back to basics; the rank and file.

Nothing much to say really. Worked on the remaining two Battle sister squads:

Flamer squad;

med_gallery_33843_5957_566954.jpg

Flexible/Home objective squad;

med_gallery_33843_5957_773505.jpg

All the individual models are in my gallery or alternatively check them out at The Underhive Hero.

The keen eyed of you may have noticed the Sister Superior in both squads is identical.

I am currently awaiting delivery of the out of production Cannoness with combi- flamer to be one of my superiors.

She is the last infantry model that needs to be completed for my 1,500points list to be completed.

Last stage here is adding back packs/ heavy weapons, and then I move on to refurbishing my tank pool.

Who knows when that will happen!

Cheer for reading guys. Comments and stuff welcome!

Thanks for reading guys.

Its nice to receive some feedback.

If you have any suggestions or criticism feel free to drop me a comment.

 

There should be more updates as soon as I get my hands on that cannoness.

Stay tuned :D

So. The updates have died off a bit...

And so this story begins.

I mentioned in a previous post that I had ordered the out of production Sisters of Battle Cannoness with combi-flmaer to be on of my sister superiors.
Well, that was on the 28th of August...

I think you know where this is going.

If you are looking for a yellow armored Chapter other than IF and want to stick to GW Chapters, take a look at the following: Angels of Vigilance (rumored DA), Celebrants (red fading to yellow, unknown gene seed), Crimson Guard (halved red & yellow, unknown gene seed), Doom Warriors (unknown gene seed), Flame Eagles (rumored Raven Guard), Howling Griffons (quartered red & yellow, Ultramarines), Lamenters (BA), Maradurs (White Scars), Marines Malevolent (unknown, but awesome), and Skull Bearers (claim to be Executioners, which would actually make them IF).

 

Good luck in making that decision. :D

 

I really like your bases, very nice, and I like the SoB with the green pauldron marking!

Edited by Bryan Blaire

If you are looking for a yellow armored Chapter other than IF and want to stick to GW Chapters, take a look at the following: Angels of Vigilance (rumored DA), Celebrants (red fading to yellow, unknown gene seed), Crimson Guard (halved red & yellow, unknown gene seed), Doom Warriors (unknown gene seed), Flame Eagles (rumored Raven Guard), Howling Griffons (quartered red & yellow, Ultramarines), Lamenters (BA), Maradurs (White Scars), Marines Malevolent (unknown, but awesome), and Skull Bearers (claim to be Executioners, which would actually make them IF).

 

Good luck in making that decision. :biggrin.:

 

I really like your bases, very nice, and I like the SoB with the green pauldron marking!

 

Thanks for the reply Bryan, and the positive feedback.

 

Considering the nature of the house army and the fact I'm doing Sallies, I reckon Marine Malevolent is a good shout.

My house army is going to made up of salvaged marines....kind of a ad-hoc creation, which suits the scavenger aspect of the MM perfectly.

Thier unkown chapter origin also allows me to not tie the army down with a particular set of rules.

 

Other than that I like Lamenters. Especially the whole cursed founding gubbins from CA:2004.

 

Thanks man. I hope I can pull off the marble effect when I get round to painting them!

Aye, I am a fan of the green too...maybe a bit more of a muted green in future..but I'll have to see what feels comfortable painting en masse.

 

 

So it has been a while. Sorry about that. This sister set back is really grinding my gears and I can't seem to find time to settle down to other projects either.
Ho-hum.

In the interim I've been writing Space Marine lists.
I have two so far. I'm not 100% happy with either, but I'll throw them up here so people can comment on them and such.
Ideally I'd like a middle ground between these two lists...but we'll have to wait and see.

List 1 - 1,500pts

Vulkan He'stan

5 Sternguard + 4 combi-melta's + powerfist

10 Tacticals + Missile launcher
Razor back with Lascannon/Twin linked plasma gun

10 Tactical marines + Missile launcher + flamer + power fist
Rhino + Extra Armour

10 Tactical Marines + Missle Luancher + flamer + Power fist
Rhino + Extra Armour

5 Scouts

Vindicator

Vindicator

Preadator w/ Autocannon + Lascannon side sponsons.

Idea: Tactical's in rhinos move up to capture objectives. Scouts are counter charge in necessary/ sit in the razorback and park on an objective.
Vindicators advance with rhino's. Pred provides anti armour fire support while He'sten and Sternguard drop and pop the most threatening artillery they have and then run interference on the their home objective.

List 2: 1,500pts

Vulkan He'stan

Terminator Chaplain

5 Terminators

5 scouts + Missile Launcher with flakk missiles + 4 Sniper Rifles

5 Scouts + Missile Launcher with flakk missiles + 4 Sniper Rifles

10 Tactical marines + Power fist + Meltagun
Rhino + Extra Armour

10 Tactical marines + Power fist + Meltagun
Rhino + Extra Armour

5 Assault Marines + 2 Flamers - Jump Packs + Drop pod

Stalker

Preadator with Auto cannon + Side moutned Heavy Bolters

Ageis Defence line + Quad Gun

Idea: Snipers defend home objectives with aid from the defence line. Predator provides covering fire primarily for the scouts. The rest of the army either divides into two (Tactical + Termies/Chaplain and Tactical + Assault/Hestan) to seek other objectives or combine to crush bulked up units. The pod/assault marines are pretty much extra wounds for Hestan, while the terminators will deal with anything too threatening.

Comments and the like welcome.

Peace
 

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