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  1. Before an extended hiatus from the hobby, my main army was blood angels. This year I’m remaking them in a new scale for armies on parade.
  2. Greetings to you all! I have for many a year been plucking away in the WIP thread, but as most of the things I put there are actually finished by the time I post, I thought it a bit more apt to have a thread here as well - and as there is not far from though to action, thus it is done now. The aim of this thread is for me to post pictures of the various B&C permissable armies that I usually work on and the units belonging to them, which I finish. Currently, I have the following armies in my possession: Dark Angels (1st, 2nd and Battle Company) - about 5000 points total Chaos Space Marines (Death Guard, World Eaters, Black Legion & Fallen Angels) - about 4500 points Chaos Daemons (Tzeentch, Nurgle & Khorne) - about 3000 points Imperial Guard allies (Death Korps of Krieg) - about 400 points Grey Knight allies - about 400 points Tyranids - about 8000 points As you can see, there is plenty of potential for varied things to be shown and displayed here - and I look forward to sharing with you all. Thus, with no further ado, I bid you welcome to my thread of finished works from the forge of Master Ciaphas! Faithfully, Master Ciaphas
  3. So for a while I've been toying with SketchUp to make all sorts of models with the idea of 3d printing them and then having them cast. It originally started with some Homeworld inspired ships which then kind of became my interpretation of pre-Imperial vessels: http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/LEGION%20ship/Somevariants_zps6b58178e.jpg And the first print: http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/LEGION%20ship/2013-11-01115818_zpscf693308.jpg Later on I started working on some other ship models that are more BFG influenced: http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Fleetteaser_zpse59fe328.jpg I've been collaborating on them with Fox Box Games who will produce them. We eventually managed to do a first print thanks to the lovely fellows at the Cardiff University: http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/prints_zps8fcda915.png http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/2014-12-02160004_zpsad11030b.jpg And now we're in the process of casting the ships in resin (please ignore the filthy xenos in the background): http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/miscast%20destroyer%201_zpsrbg8wkrb.jpg I currently have four types of escorts (2 destroyers and 2 corvettes) and some boarding pods printed, and hopefully we'll be able to release them later in the summer. Depending on how those will go, I can contemplate finishing up the larger transport ships and maybe also these. Besides ships I've also worked on some more 28mm scaled stuff. Space Hulk and Necromunda have always fascinated me and for a long time I've tried to make a model version of Philip Sibbering's Ecopolis. I eventually moved to something based more on my own ideas, which you can see here: http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Underground%20facility%201.0%20-%20006a_zpskf1dwgwl.jpg http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Underground%20facility%201.0%20-%20006c_zpsvucpmoxc.jpg http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Underground%20facility%201.0%20-%20006b_zps2c2bokgt.jpg http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Underground%20facility%201.0%20-%20008%20equipment_zpsz2zstyix.jpg I still haven't been able to build my own infantry models (yet), but I have been working on designing some equipment for them: http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Clubs%201.0%20-%20001_zpst5tskn7y.jpg http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Auto%20pistols%20-%20teched%20up%20002_zpsxh3g9ouv.jpg http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Stefmanovic/Rifles%201.0%20-%20002_zpse7znj2qy.jpg So yeah...let me know what you think! I'll keep this thread updated with my process as we go along!
  4. HiMyNameisHarry aka DarKHaZZl3 and I will be your in-flight entertainment for the duration of my hobby life A while back I had several WiP topics of various themes, and needless to say, it was a bit of a ball ache. So instead I've decided to throw everything into one pot in an aim to get more feedback and possible praise for being semi-awesome not making a complete mess of things! In between my own stuff (which honestly is mainly not 40k orientated these days) I do take on commission work... While this won't strictly be 'Armies of the Imperium' based, I don;t want to set up another topic, so they'll also live here There is quite a back catalogue of posts, so bellow are the links to each of the categories on my blog if you want to keep up to date on any specific project. +--EDIT--+ A while back the B&C had a huge update. In this overhaul they have trashed the blog section of the website. A such my hobby blog posts have all been deleted, and therefore the links I have posted will no longer work and thus have been removed (I think I got them all anyway). So from now on, any links to written blogs will take you to The Underhive Hero. But all/most of my images will still be hosted here on the B&C! +--EDIT--+ I don't post much online anymore... that is something I am looking to get back to. You can find almost everything on my instagram, or on my commission page, depending on what it is (links in sig) Cheers for checking this out, Comments, Compliments and Constructive Criticism all welcome. I Hope you enjoy the ride +--ACTIVITY LOG (Recent first)--+ UPdate 29/08/2020 = 30k Ultramarine Commission complete ! part1 (Page 9). Update 27/08/2020 = 30k Ultramarine Commission wip (Page 9). Update 14/08/2020 = The Great Unclean One Commission Complete! part 2 (Page 9). Update 09/08/2020 = The Great Unclean One Commission Complete! part 1 (Page 9). Update 06/08/2020 = Teaser: The Great Unclean One Commission part 2 (Page 9). Update 05/08/2020 = Teaser: The Great Unclean One Commission part 1 (page 9). Update 28/07/2020 = Abaddon the Despoiler Commission Complete! (Page 9). Update 10/02/2020 = Corvus Corax Commission Complete! (Page 9). Update 10/02/2020 = Teaser: Corvus Corax Commission (Page 9). Update 06/07/2019 = Leam Russ Commission Complete! (Page 8). Update 05/03/2018 = Teaser: Leman Russ Commission (Page 8). Update 30/01/2018 = Solaris Reaper Space Marine - Single Miniature (page 8). Update 17/07/2017 = Imperial Knight project. Testing Terryn (page 8). Update 20/02/2017 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - Triumvirate (Page 8). Update 11/02/2017 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - Prayer of completion (Page 8). Update 06/02/2017 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - The Ecclesiarchy (Page 8). Update 03/02/2017 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - Buttery biscuit basecoat (Page 8). Update 07/10/2016 = Salamanders. PK FIRE! (page 8). Update 03/10/2016 = Salamanders. Coil, coil melta, and trouble. (Page 8). Update 16/09/2016 = Salamanders. Armour up! (page 8). Update 05/09/2016 = Adeptus Mechanicus. Knowledge is power - Project complete (page 8). Update 30/08/2016 = Adeptus Mechanicus. A warm fuzzy glow (Page 8). Update 27/08/2016 = Adeptus Mechanicus. Darkness (Page 8). Update 22/08/2016 = Salamanders. Annihilation! (Page 7). Update 19/08/2016 = Salamanders. Don't lose your head! (Page 7). Update 12/08/2016 = Salamanders. Bon Anniversaire! (Page 7). Update 15/04/2016 = Salamanders. Devastator Ready! (Page 7). Update 06/04/2016 = Salamanders. A Fiery Red Head. (Page 7). Update 28/03/2016 = Salamanders. A Prophecy is Fulfilled. (Page 7). Update 16/03/2016 = Salamanders. Unto the Anvil! Finally! (Page 7). Update 01/03/2016 = Imperial Knight project. Paint Factory (Page 7). Update 16/02/2016 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - Fly on the wings of.. green stuff (Page 7). Update 16/02/2016 = Imperial Knight project. Manufactorum (Page 7). Update 23/01/2016 = Imperial Knight project begins! (Page 7). Update 28/05/2015 = Inquisotr Coteaz reboot. Always TBT; Cloak, Fur and the Force (Page 7). Update 20/05/2015 = Inquisotr Coteaz reboot. A man of the cloth (Page 7). Update 16/05/2015 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - Layers of Dakka (page 7). Update 14/05/2015 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 16. Lamp Post Perfected (completed) (Page 6). Update 06/05/2015 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 15. Look for the lights that shall guide you home (Page 6). Update 23/10/2014 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - Faith is out shield; having a big ass wall helps (page 6). Update 14/10/2014 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle - Paint dat Dakka Dakka (Page 6). Update 01/10/2014 = The Not-So-Mighty Imperial Navy - Terrain Project 5. Downed Aquila (Page 6). Update 22/09/2014 = Brown. Grey. Red. Black. Forever - Terrain Project 5. Downed Aquila (Page 6). Update 14/09/2014 = Layers. Layers Everywhere - Terrain Project 5. Downed Aquila (Page 6). Update 07/09/2014 = Inquisitor Coteaz reboot. IT HAS PAINT! (Page6). Update 31/08/2014 = All its Base are Belong to Me - Terrain Project 5. Downed Aquila (Page 5). Update 28/08/2014 = Inquisitor Coteaz reboot; Throwback Thursday? Already hit a snag (Page 5). Update 24/08/2014 = Unto the Anvil a Little Too Hard eh? Terrain Project 1 - Land Speeder FINISHED (Page 5). Update 12/06/2014 = L'Ordre Des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: Marble; The Basework of Basses + Grey Knights/ Inquisition sneak peak (Page 5). Update 20/05/2014 = In Your Underhive, Destroying Your Buildings. Terrain Project 1 - Land Speeder (Page 5). Update 07/05/2014 = It Came From Urban Space. Terrain Project 5 - Downed Aquila (Page 5). Update 05/05/2014 = Urbanising the Urban Board. Terrain Project 4 - Imperial Building (Page 5). Update 01/05/2014 = Sutorīto Kurētā. Terrain Project 3 - Street Crater (Page 5). Update 29/04/2014 = Gun Speeder? Land Emplacement? Terrain Project 2 & 1 - Gun Emplacement + Land Speeder (Page 5). Update 30/03/2014 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 14. Dusty streets. 12 - 6. (Page 4). Update 28/03/2014 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 13. Streets awash with...wash (Page 4). Update 27/03/2014 = Terrain Project 2 - Gun Emplacement. (Page 4). Update 25/03/2014 = Terrain Project 1 - Land Speeder (Page 4). Update 21/03/2014 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: List revised (Page 4). Update 03/03/2014 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: First shot at a new(ish) dex list (Page 4). Update 15/01/2014 = Killing Them With Kindness part 2 + L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: Proof of concept (Page 4). Update 13/01/2014 = More distractions. Killing Them With Kindness. Part 1 (Page 4). Update 11/01/2014 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 12. Light. Camera. Lamppost - The pun I should have used before (Page 3). Update 07/01/2014 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 11. Lights. Camera. Inaction (Page 3). Update 19/12/2013 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 10. Follow the Grey Slab Road (Page 3). Update 09/12/2013 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 9. Turn to Grey (Page 3). Update 20/11/2013 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 8. Base! Done! (Page 3). Update 12/11/2013 = Gaming Board Project. Stage 7. A Strong Learning Curve (Page 3). Update 12/11/2013 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: Completion and Hiatus (Page 3). Update 21/10/2013 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: The Final Superior + Gaming Board Project. Stage 6. Paving the Way to Completion (Page 3). Update 26/09/2013 = Salamanders: Trial of the written word, or, concept army lists (Page 2). Update 17/09/2013 = Fission Mailed - Reasons for delay (Page 2). Update 07/09/2013 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: Rank, File, Speech and Flight. Infantry built (Page 2). Update 23/08/2013 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: By Faith and Microwaves. Metla Squad complete (Page 2). Update 14/08/2013 = Gaming board project. Stage 5. Testing sand + L'Ordre des Angles - The Sisters of Battle: Retribution. + Something else (Page 2). Update 09/08/2013 = L'Ordre des Angles - The Sisters of Battle: A chip off the old marble block. (Page 2). Update 06/08/2013 = B&C Database error: Posts repaired. (Page 2). Update 00/00/0000 = L'Ordre des Angles - The Sisters of Battle: Worst model ever finished! (Page 2). UPdate 00/00/0000 = Gaming board project. Stage 4. Detailing the street (Page 2). Update 00/00/0000 = L'Ordre des Angles - The Sisters of Battle: Worst model ever! (Page 2). Update 00/00/0000 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: Anti Air Guns for Nuns (Page2). Update 00/00/0000 = Gaming board project. Stage 3. Curb your enthusiasm (Page 2). Update 03/07/2013 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: Roster ready + Game board project. Delayed. Stage 2.5 (Page 2). Update 19/06/2013 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: The shoulder pad conundrum (Page 2). Update 18/06/2013 = Game board project. Stage 2. Building the layout! (Page 2). Update 15/06/2013 = Game board project. Stage 1. Planning (Page 1). Update 12/09/2013 = Cautiously Joined Istvaan V (Come All Who Dare) Under the Banner of the Salamanders (Page 1). Update 30/06/2013 = L'Ordre des Angels - The Sisters of Battle: Schemes, banners and the task ahead (Page 1). -DH-
  5. [Posted in the wrong section. Please move.] Of relevance to the science fantasy setting Warhammer 40'000. Copy-pasted from an advice reply over on T9A for Mad 'At's Citycape Skirmish Blog, since much of it could be of general interest to wargamers all over. Mad 'At is by the way an accomplished scenery builder and miniature painter, as should be evident here, and it's something out of the ordinary to play across his club's terrain at some Swedish tournaments. I guess the board will double up as both sewers and streets with canals? I'd highly recommend you paint some odd stones in different tones to add interest to the plain grey board as it stands. E.g. blue-grey, reddish brown, beige, blackish grey. Likewise, a little moss and painted lichen clinging to stonewall surfaces can break up the grey monotone and give life to the texture: [align=center] [/align] It can easily be done, and is a simple way to improve terrain. Needn't be Golden Demon level, something quick like this from a Danish Frostgrave table adds a lot. Also, a touch of ivy somewhere could be neat. As could the rare tuft of grass growing between cracks in a stone or brick wall (not the street stones, that could impede placing bases around). Yellowed grass will help keep it grimdark if that is desired. And a simple bird's nest somewhere high up in a ruin could add a lot, maybe with eggs in it. Onward, wood can easily be made to look more organic on miniatures and [lexicon]terrain[/lexicon] by adding a few streaks of grey or grayish-greenish-brown (Catachan Green is a classic) into thew woodwork. This is not to say that all the wood surface shall be covered in it, but that once one have painted it brown, one can add a few veins of grayish green. [align=center][/align] Clever take with the ruined parts of Avras (Constantinople and Rome rolled into one) for a Mordheim game. This is probably not what Cityscape Skirmish players want to see, but what the heck: In both the case of Rome and Constantinople, when they got largely depopulated and the living city shrunk back within the walls, parts of the former city were given over to farming and pasture for cattle, goats, swine and sheep. So that you had a living city centre, huddling together around the Vatican in the case of Rome, and lots of ruins and abandoned enormous monuments, falling apart in urban decay. And scattered amid all this was some agriculture within the city walls. So you could include some field or orchard in a misplaced location, e.g. on some broken-up market square or within the walls of a ruined temple whose roof collapsed long ago. Perhaps some makeshift little stable of herdsman's hut thrown up against the towering stone wall of some ancient grand building. Maybe even stray farm animals just for flavour without any effect whatsoever on the game, moving out of the way automatically as the warbands roam about (or perhaps breaking line of sight and possibly stampeding in panic for some odd scenario - or being a cattle raid)? Maybe some broken statue could enhance the ruined impression? Likewise, as a bone thrown to fungoid Goblin fans out there, you could make a patch or two of brightly coloured mushrooms who release spores with odd gameplay effects in their vicinity, particularly for sewer play. And some unearthed mass grave, for all Necromantic needs. Furthermore, don't be afraid to add burn markss to frayed and damaged edges of ruins. It can aid with the visual impression. And speaking of marks, some old dried blood stains or just stains of mold, dung or dirt could help break up the grey stone expanse. Not big spots and splotches, but ones better done with a detail or stippling brush. And if you ever do a living inhabited city quarter, you could include posh ancient fluted columns and other intricately carved stonework that has been looted from old buildings and built into newer ones, such as shoddy little mansions. Here are parts of some ancient Greek columns from the Bactrian kingdom still in use in Afghanistan today: [align=center][/align] Also, while much more relevant to sci-fi than to fantasy, some graffiti in the form of chalked or coal-drawn clan markings, pathfinding signs or unholy occult symbols drawn by gibberish madmen (Chaos stars and so on) could be added to some ruin or another. Perhaps Roman, Viking or Egyptian style? Just throwing ideas in case anything is of interest. Hills as Dump Piles On a different note, how about spicing some of your hills? Tired of all wargaming hills looking virtually the same? While we all want a flat surface on top for movement, the steep hillsides are usually open field for add-ons, so long as they don't interfere with movement trays on top and units passing by. While moss and flowers can be added to the sides of hills to bring nature more into the game, there is also another route which can be taken. Simultaneously with the vegetation, in fact: Hills as dump piles. One dump could be corpses and skeletons, such as this Hill of the Slain, an illustration for Silmarillion: Another could be ruin stones poking out from the sides of the hills, some bearing ornate carvings, like the Schuttberg in Germany made up of rubble from cities bombed asunder during the Second World War: Another could be a Tell, an ancient settlement mound built up of layers upon layers of sunbaked mud brick. Perfect for desert tables. Some artistic license would work best here, since the outermost layer of bricks usually crumble down to an indistinguishable dust layer. Instead, make some sections of the hillside be worn brick wall visible among the earth. Could include pottery and bones for extra effect: Yet another take on a fully or partially artificial hill could be to make it a dumping ground for waste, such as one made up entirely of pottery shards stacked on top of one another, akin to Monte Testaccio in Rome which is a hill made up of millions of discarded olive oil amphorae during the city's ancient heyday of bustle and consumption: And last and least, how about a dump pile for Skaven underground digging? All those tunnels and caverns clawed out from the earth must leave a lot of waste, that needs to be dumped above ground. This would be an ordinary hill, but perhaps with some Skaven skull or broken ratman shield or weapon sticking out from the earth, rocks or grass of the hillside. The same could be done for others than the verminous swarms, of course, including Dwarfs (runestone proclaiming ownership of dump pile material by some clan?), Chaos Dwarfs ( sprinkled with obsidian shards and dead Goblins?) and Goblins (Goblin waste, including dung, broken gear and fungi). Just make sure any such vertical/diagonal additions to hills are done in a friendly fashion for tabletop movement. Got any tips of your own to share? Do please spill the beans!
  6. greetings, I'm coming from 40k0. Been lurking B&C painting/modelling section for a while and I thought i'd start posting and sharing my work. here's my start on the Imperial Fists 5th company. This project is looking pretty exciting, I'm looking to really bring these guys to life and develop the Chapter a bit more. hopefully I'll have more to share as I finish some modeling and christen my handy-dandy new airbrush with craploads of yellow. Sorry for the bad pictures, believe or not these were the best ones of the batch... Just looking to share and fishing for C&C. http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/102.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/103.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/105.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/106.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/107.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/111.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/109.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f390/augustmanifesto/imperial%20fists/108.jpg
  7. So I did some science. I then followed this science with heresy, because it's awesome, and here's what I ended up with: a dormant Chaos Gate, about half an inch thick. When activated, it produces a glowing tunnel that gives the appearance of being several feet long. Why? For the glory of Chaos, of course! UPDATE: Brief (6 min) how-to-build video: https://youtu.be/JHh7IZqpGoY http://i.imgur.com/bcQrfnOl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Xb3drUpl.jpg
  8. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  9. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  10. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  11. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  12. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  13. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  14. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  15. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  16. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  17. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  18. From the album: CFH Table WIP

    Modular tabletop terrain topographical tiles. Made from presswood sheets. nominally 1/2" thick. various degrees of incompletion. tiles are made to line up in as many ways as possible. obviously when the entire edge is at the same elevation. but most importantly every tile edge that has a slope has the same slope profile along the edge. so any piece so long as you orient it properly matching lowland to lowland, and highland to highland, the transition should line up very well. that's the theory. we shall see how it goes. you can see where i have already made a rough pass with a grinder to start to get the smoother shape down. I already tested the slope and models will stand just fine. there will be steeper areas with stepped ledges for models, and that will be difficult terrain and sometimes impassable. also note the early shots with models in for scale. it was entirely intentional that the hills be LOS blocking in certain table arrangements. i thought it would be interesting for games to have LOS blockers that often were not inhibiting movement. the elevated and lower areas will accomodate some other terrain largely dependant on the tile arrangement. ignoring that tiles with duplicate themes (all hill corners or all long hillsides for example) are not actually identical, i already sketched out over 100 permutations of 4 pairs of tiles (2 inside corners, 2 outside corners, 2 long hillsides and 2 flat lowland tiles) when setting up a 4'x6' table. considering swapping each comparable tile with its alternate you can see that the numbers will increase very rapidly. just swapping 2 tiles doubles the permutations. then swapping any other 2 tiles doubles those etc, so in theory over 1600 unique permutations, tho a great many of them will not be extremely different, since the swapping means you really have about 100 arrangements that each have 16 sub variations. throw on terrain etc and you've got more variety than you can shake one of those old red measuring sticks you can't read at. Yes I am aware this is overkill. No it isn't that heavy. Yes it is a lot of work. No i am not crazy. Yes that is exactly what a crazy person would say.
  19. Hi All, just thought I'd post the scenery I've been building and painting on here in an effort to keep me motivated. Hope Y'all enjoy!
  20. AKA: How I learned to stop worrying and love the drybrush AKA: Ambitious but rubbish AKA: Lore is more what you call guidelines than actual rules AKA: Paint it any colour as long as it's black AKA: An idea isn't a project log Disclaimer: This is a General 40k log. I can't see myself sticking with one project for too long at the moment. This will be strange. I'll try and stay visually friendly to the 40k universe, but I will bend the lore as required for my projects. After 15-16 years in the hobby I think I'm entitled to! Think surreal stuff and mixed IP, mostly using GW models. I favour tabletop standard models with a weathered style, no pro painted eye candy here, sorry! I'm currently working on a Space Hulk Genestealer Kill Team and (non Space Hulk!) Kill Team Board/Terrain. I've been busy over the last couple of months. I wanted to start Kill Team with a friend in time for the UK COVID re-opening this week. Dithering with colour schemes and hay-fever fatigue has made me miss the deadline. I'm nearly there though! Test model and test base: I have to find every way not to paint something before I can decide on a colour scheme. After trying a few things with the unused half of the Genestealers I circled back to my original idea of Xenomorph style Genestealers in a very under highlighted style. It's just Chaos Black liberally sprayed on with an all over dry brush of Scavenblight Dinge followed by an all over wash of Seraphim Sepia, which is my new favourite magic wash (Move over Agrax!) I've never been a big nids fan, but I was worried I would never finish my kill team if I went for my usual default of elaborately kitbashed guard regiments or Inqusition warbands. It also seemed fun to play non Imperial with my 40k newbie friend picking Wolves... I've had the 2014 Space Hulk box for a while (Since 2014) and the Hive Mind Started calling to me. Even I could manage to paint 9 monopose Genstealers right? Being monopose models the main challenge during the build was the basing. A good number of the Space Hulk Genies have amazing bits of er, space hulk moulded onto them. I wanted to retain that, but also make the starship parts seem like a plausible part of the base rather than just stuck on. I have some necromunda/industrial bases but It was hard to make the Space Hulk bits blend in. The largest ones didn't quite fit on 40mm bases so I've obtained some 50mm bases, probably the only innovation from Centurions I approve of . In my day you had 25mm slot bases for troops, 40mm for terminators and 60mm for dreadnoughts (and your kid brother with his WFB had square bases). Now days every man and his dog has a custom base size... In the end I used a mix of sand and chopped up sprue to make fine rubble. After becoming more environmentally concious this year I've decided to stop throwing away used sprues (with no option for recycling them in the UK), and use them for basing or scratch builds. I'm planning to top it with an Ice and Snow wash from precision Ice and Snow. So why haven't I finished 9 models in 2 months? The truth? I spent over a month doing a little bit of de mould lining each evening and not much else. I then decided to start the Kill Team terrain as a parallel project, which is a terrible idea! A great secret I learned from a WHC podcast was that the Kill Team battlefield is a similar size to a standard noticeboard size available in the UK. I already had a cork notice board with only 1cm larger dimensions so I used it to create: Crossroads! I chose to make the road a central feature because thought it would be versatile. Add buildings by the road and you have a small city of death. Add some low rise terrain and the same board becomes a rural battlefield. I got the cork sheet from a cork map of the world I no longer needed and used DIY sharp sand. The areas outside the road are deliberately under detailed so the board is more modular with removable terrain and easier to store. WIP and rather good value laser cut buildings from TC combat: I wanted some more ancient ruins rather than the usual bombed out wasteland, so it was always going to be grass or desert on the board rather than the usual grey or scrapyard vibes you see for 40k. In a bit of a marmite decision I chose a 'Summer Flowers' static grass blend from a model railway provider. My first thought was to use dead grass blends, but to do that realistically would have increased the complexity and time budget. In the end I wanted something that wouldn't depress me to look at in these challenging times and something that's certainly different. The road was painted with art shop greys to save money (which I then wasted by using about
  21. Hello, everyone! Been a looong time since I posted in the WIP section of the board -- I'm not too good about sticking to regular updates at all, but a speciifc project should be doable for me, I think. I hope. But you all know what they say about hope.... :P Anyway, in the last couple months I came into possession of the Third Edition space marine codex, grabbed for seven bucks and change at a half price books, purely for historical reasons, since it's kind of useless to me game wise as I've never played any edition earlier than sixth and never read a rulebook earlier than fifth. In it, I saw the brief 'hey here's how to scratch build a watchtower' blurb and I thought, 'Hey, that's kinda cool. I should do that at some point!' Then, a few weeks ago, I came across another old book--The Games Workshop How to Make Wargames Terrain, for eight and change at, again, HPB. Not exactly sure which edition it is, because the cover doesn't match the one referenced in the marine 'dex, but still chock-full of great stuff that I plan to use. Now, I have a painting competition I'm currently participating in, and the organizer has approved the use of a small terrain piece to enhance the entry (which will hopefully get me out of basing a couple of my models, or at least the fact that they're coming from different parts of my army that will need to be based separately). So I thought, why not build one myself? Inspired by the watchtower in the SM codex, I mocked up a very rough draft for what I want it to be: A corrugated iron watchtower and gate, and little tiny battlements. Anything with a squiggle drawn in it is a solid piece, though I do plan on having a couple 'reinforced' aspects that are just the boxes on the drawing. The gaps in the watchtower are a firing port and the gap between the tower's battlement and roof. The next step is going to be dimensions, and maybe a bit more drafting, since I haven't done a lot with that yet. After that it'll be materials acquisition; thankfully I already have a cardboard box or two to cannibalize so I'll just need plasticard for the battlements, door, gate latch, and ladder. Does anyone have any tips for gluing cardboard together? My first thought is a hot glue gun but I don't think I'm allowed one in my current living quarters and I don't know if there are hobby shops that have them for free use--maybe a library might have some. Would superglue work? Anyway, I'll try and post here to keep people updated--please feel free to guilt me if I leave this untouched for a bit, since I'd hate to disappoint anyone (as a matter of fact that's largely how I pushed through my ETL's, not wanting to disappoint my subforum!).
  22. I was uhmmm-ing and ah-ing about posting this (I actually thought he was a user on b&c, but didn't find him), but anyway: therealbrokenfingers has just opened a yt-channel, and I thought you might be interested. He is known through Instagram (-> https://www.instagram.com/therealbrokenfingers/ and other places, I suppose...) for his true scale Alpha Legion, which he paints mostly with oils for an interesting, gritty look. Some nice tutorials on there already, also for terrain. Cheers! https://www.youtube.com/user/jeremycwood79
  23. Hello Brothers. I've been planning on starting some terrain projects for a table. I have some GW kits, sector mechanicus, sector imperialis and STC-ryza ruins kit. Ive been thinking of starting with the ryza ruins as a smaller kit test things out and make my mistakes on before moving onto the larger kits i have. I'm planning on gluing the kits in a sort of ruined building formation instead of as scatter terrain, but I'm hemming and haw'ing over what to use. I don't have anything on hand so i would have to got get something specifically for this project. So far the options i have been considering are as follows.\ 1. 3mm MDF - I like the rigidity of MDF, but availability in my area for something not meant for construction is harder to come by. Also, mdf's habit of absorbing liquid and expanding is making me consider other options. 2. Plywood- most of the same issues as mdf, but its much more available in my area. working with it shouldn't be an issue for me as i have a decent amount of tools around. 3. Acrylic sheets- I can get these at a fine arts store and have a little bit of experience in working with it. I'm a little concerned about how well things like glue and papercrete will adhere to it, but i think scuffing it with sand paper first should give it a better surface for things to stick too. 4. Thicker pasticard.- I think i can get some 3+mm sheets from a train hobby ship in the city, but i have no experience with this and from what I've seen it looks kinda flimsy, like plastic paper sheets. 5. Foam core- I can get this at a dollar store. the only thing i don't really like about this option is that it doesn't seem very durable at all and if my pieces end up having a lot of stone, papercrete and such, it just wont hold up. I'd appreciate anyones feedback on their experiences, but at the moment i'm leaning towards the acrylic sheets.
  24. After a many-year hiatus, I've (mostly) put my hobby bench back together, and am ready to start getting dirty. For my Loyalist Legio, I've created Legio Lupos, the Wolf Pack. ...and for the Traitors, Legio Erinyes. For Loyalist Knights, House LowenKralle ...and lastly for today, a WIP of my Questoris Scion. Clearly I also need a lesson in how to properly post images to the forums! All of the pics are here:
  25. The intention of this review is to inform any of the KS backers or individuals who may buy one of these second-hand, I’ve already seen a couple listed on eBay. I do not wish to make light of anything that has to do with the kickstarter itself, only look at the product in hand. I also hope this creates a network of people who can share builds, hacks and other advice regarding this terrain system. This review is based on the “Medium” Backer Cathedral, I did NOT get the Daedelus expansion (which was included in the promotional material) or the fabric mat. As this backer reward was said to be the one used to create the images used in the KS campaign, I feel this offers the most level playing field in comparing what was shown to what was delivered. This system used a tension clip system to attach pre-printed die cut pieces to each other to make a gothic style cathedral inspired terrain for warhammer and other analogous game systems. TL:DR Pros: Well printed. Die cuts popped out easily. Terrain is HUGE. Lots of possibilities. Cardboard holds up nicely. Cons: Assembly videos provided by RH are limited. Clip system was hard on the hands. Cardboard will most likely not respond well to repeated rebuilding. One-shot: I got what I paid for and am happy with the final result, however the road to get there was a journey with quite a learning curve, and not by choice. What was advertised: Kit sizes: https://i.imgur.com/Zv7GAeW.jpeg Promotional images: https://warstages.net/gallery.html What I made: V1 V2 For scale: In Depth I was pleasantly surprised that the printing quality held up, of all the things involved with this terrain KS, that was my biggest concern. It holds up, and the contrast is nice. I did not make any notice of details being cut off or parts being off center. Once all together it makes an impressive scene. The cardboard is sturdy but there are certain parts that need extreme care to not bend in assembly - such as archways along the sides - are very prone to bending at clip points. Many scatter terrain elements had tabs which bent easily or off entirely. On the flip side the platforms are sturdy, and the bigger one, "High Command" held my resin Castigator. The clip system works. However after 15-30 minutes of assembly the constant pushing and coaxing of clips was hard on the fingers. I eventually resorted to using the table, a ball peen hammer, and padded work gloves to minimize wear & tear while slotting clips. You really need to plan out your clip layout if you want to bling out your builds with all the extra greebles provided. This review will go through a few things concerning some the marquee pieces. Instructions were provided as a QR code to a private youtube site which lists 36 videos as of this writing. I expected them to be something along the line of, “do THIS to make the scene you saw in the pictures”. Maybe even a PDF showing layouts they used. But more than half of the videos are for the scatter terrain, the rest cover SOME of the major assemblies, and one of them is exclusive to the extra large kit backers (which was helpful for ideas). Perhaps they’ll add more. I found it to be insufficient for someone to make a casual go at this. If you’re watching the videos on a phone it can be very frustrating as the assembler points to a clip (there’s no talking in MOST of them, just a very, very repetitive soundtrack.) and you’re squinting trying to see which one it was. My naming convention for each is as named in the assembly video list: https://www.ragingheroes.com/pages/assembling-warstages CHOIR: This piece has the largest footprint of the lot and appears front and center in many of the promotional pieces. It makes use of an angled clip which is infuriating to use and was single-handedly the most stressful part of any of the builds. The windows are long and skinny and prone to bending when pressing them together with the angled clips. The upper part of the flying buttress does not attach to the structure, which is annoying to my propensity to secure things. Seems prone to bending as I almost did it myself just moving it around. There is a part shown in the promotional images (Tryptic, per the backer info) that is provided, but there are no clip slot cutouts where this very specific railing is supposed to go. It won’t fit anywhere else, I tried. HIGH COMMAND: Heavily used in the promotional images, however what you DON’T see clearly is that the stairs cannot attach flush to the platform. The stairs have tabs extending from the sides that intersect the angled platform preventing the clips from fully attaching. It looks janky. I cut off the offending tabs since they’re an integral part of this platform. WALLS: This assembly video specifically deals with parts from the Daedelus extension, but has a generic title card, so if you’re a little confused and wondering if you’re missing parts before realizing it’s just something you didn’t get, you’re not alone. No other assembly videos pertaining to wall builds for the cathedral, which make up a large portion of the frames provided. I ended up looking at the promotional photos for ideas on how they might have put them together but ended up just doing my own thing. TRIANGLE TOWER: I opted for making four tall and two short towers instead of 2 super tall and 2 tall towers as advertised. Ridiculously tall for a tabletop game, there’s little to no units that would end up going that high, much less get there, or have any tactical reason to do so. SCREENS: Looks cool but the bases provided suck and slip off super easily. I actually used two inverted toppers for bases from the :”Triangle Tower” build. I think they missed the mark on these. If they simply made the slots at the bottom of some of the screen the same width as the slots on the floor and platforms it would have offered up some better alternatives. GATES: As of this writing the video for this part has been taken down for some reason. Very fiddly construction and I was sweating bullets trying to get all the big pieces slotted the way they show in the video. Biggest golly gee is this platform they put up at the very top. It’s a 1x4 pierce that has slots all the way around and they don’t even use any of them. I ended up removing the platform, used extra connectors to shore up the gates and used the platform to build my walls. The hinge clips are not that good and come apart easily when moving the doors. I was short two clips to fully install the doors for all three gates, but I actually prefer to use the right angle clip for an open position and the single straight clip for closed. BELL TOWER: You get two bell towers but an extra two of the top half, which makes for an odd piece on the tabletop as scatter terrain. Luckily some of the parts can be repurposed to make a small riser and alternative guardrails. SCATTER TERRAIN: I liked most of the little bits. The crates and bookcases are solid, and a lot of the computer screens and displays have many ways of being added to the terrain. I passed on the candelabra and trimmed the lights down to use with clips and added them as interior / exterior lights. I didn’t care for the Pipes, Air Recycling Unit, Med Station or Fireplace and let my kids put them together and keep them. Either the construction was janky or I just didn’t like the look of the finished piece. I’ve got plenty of resin and plastic scatter terrain to use instead. RANDO STUFF: In the end, I had a lot of walkways and other random bits leftover, which is fine. But there were these pieces which never came up in an assembly video, nor could I divine any use for them as the slots don't match up with ANYTHING. edit: font color changed for better readability
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