Veteran Sergeant does True Scale + Blackstone Fortress

[Veteran Sergeant]

Nah, that looks great. My first models weren't anything amazing. That guy has character. A little menace to his pose.

 

And he's painted, which puts him well ahead of my models, some of whom are nearly two years old and unpainted because I can't ever consider them "done" and ready for painting. 

Edited November 7, 2013 by Veteran Sergeant

[Kuchinawa]

Nah, that looks great. My first models weren't anything amazing. That guy has character. A little menace to his pose.

 

And he's painted, which puts him well ahead of my models, some of whom are nearly two years old and unpainted because I can't ever consider them "done" and ready for painting. 

I'm with you there!

Sometimes i gotta just bite the bullet, clean any wonky mold lines or small gaps up, and paint it. My friends really like the "trudges through mud" effect. So maybe it was hidden blessing hehe

[Veteran Sergeant]

I've made a small amount of progress, but somebody had recently asked how these models scale up to Terminators.

 

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/12/21/566922_md-Missile%20Launcher%2C%20Space%20Marines%2C%20Tall%20Scale%2C%20Terminator%20Armor%2C%20True%20Scale.png

 

That's one of my newer models next to the Terminator Sergeant body from Assault on Black Reach. Obviously at some point when I get around to them, I will need to modify the Terminators to be taller in order to scale properly with my own Marines, but that really, eye to eye, they aren't much taller than regular Space Marines (much of it to do with the squatting stance of the power armored model). Ultimately the same sized Space Marine has to fit inside the Terminator suit so he can't be too much taller.

[Kuchinawa]

Maybe you can use a cheater. I remember in a old dwarf they added a little plasticard to the bottom of the boots to make him stand a little taller. Any base flocking would cover it up bit still make him appear a bit taller.

 

Also, you did it. I'm thinking of converting all my new Christmas chaos marines to be in your taller scale. 

[Veteran Sergeant]

You can check out my blog on Dakka. Same name. There was a cat who just did up a bunch of Chaos Marines using my technique and posted them in my thread. Give you an idea what they'll turn out like.

 

Just don't explore too much else on Dakka. The P&M blogs forum is awesome. The rest is a spawning pool for the worst people 40K has to offer.

Edited December 26, 2013 by Veteran Sergeant

[The_Chaplain]

Just don't explore too much else on Dakka. The P&M blogs forum is awesome. The rest is a spawning pool for the worst people 40K has to offer. 

 

Dakkadakka is a lot like the infamous 4chan, you just need to use the catalog to weed through potential troll topics and posts; and use the report buttons accordingly.  Also, I have had some really decent trades off of both websites-- you cannot judge a community off of a few bad apples, there are decent people everywhere on the internet- you just need to have faith.

Edited December 26, 2013 by The_Chaplain

[Veteran Sergeant]

That's entirely possible. I have good interactions on Dakka on the hobby side. The people who participate in my plog over there, and the people who post their own stuff are great. It's the rest of the forum (rumors, discussion, background, etc) that is just full of trolls, and passive-aggressive slugs. It's a bad combo for somebody like me who is generally nice and happy to be helpful, but predisposed to tell it how it is, and pull your card if you're acting like a punk.

 

And the fact that a lot of their moderators are terrible at their jobs doesn't help, so reporting things on Dakka is fairly useless. They tend to let instigators slide the vast majority of the time, and it's no surprise that it's one of the few places a lot of the hobby's most infamous trolls can still post. It's the times when it's slow at work or something and I have time to kill that I end up drifting into the other areas of Dakka against my better judgment. Should just stick to reading industry articles, or something productive, lol.

[Veteran Sergeant]

What? New content? An assembled model? Ridiculous.

So this guy has been in pieces for like three weeks. And I finally finished him. A little amusing back story. The head and torso were an old model which I had apparently glued together with Sovereign Glue. No matter what, that head wasn't coming off. But it was a usable torso with an eagle, and it also had a "Devastator head" on it, meaning it needed a heavy weapon if I was going to use him in my Battle Company. I tossed around doing another missile launcher (I still need at least one more), but then I thought about a multi-melta. But how to make a Marine looking left with a multi-melta which is set up to be held right handed? So I envision this guy stacked up on a wall, or some other kind of cover, about to turn the corner and blast something, and has turned his head back to see if his squadmates are ready to charge once he's blasted whatever is around the corner.



The multimelta was an Ebay save, and had been slathered with two thick layers of paint, lol. It didn't even 100% strip on the first try, so I've actually been scraping a fair amount of it off with a hobby blade tip.

His wrists also need to be finished since the angle that I wanted the multimelta to sit at was far greater than the available wrist actuator. Might have to resort to green stuff finally, lol.

The weapon needs some work before I finalize it, but I'm pleased with it. I wanted to use one of the multimeltas from the old school tarantula kit since the are slimmer than the current generation ones, but I couldn't find any of them. Found the Tarantual itself, but not the guns.

The second thing isn't a full model, but instead the concept for my new bolter.

I shaved off the nonfunctional front sight post, then moved the barrel in line with the charging handle, while positioning the targeter nub underneath the barrel instead of over it. I kinda like the look of it. I've been fighting with the idea of what bolters to use. I don't like the default plastic ones because they are too thick. I don't like any of the Forgeworld ones for a variety of reasons. Mostly because I'm too picky, heh. But this may solve some of my problems unless I decide to perhaps press-mold the metal Deathwatch bolters. May end up mounting some kind of optic on it. Either the sights from the IGuard heavy weapons teams, or perhaps something from a 3rd party like Anvil? Not sure. Thoughts?

[marine7312000]

I'd vote for the Anvil optics. Consider the Multi melta idea stolen.

[deathspectersgt7]

First This one sweet model like the way he is kitted out!.Anvil has a couplle of sights that would work.

[Bryan Blaire]

I've thought about swapping the targeter nub and barrel like that so many times, and yeah, it looks a LOT better that way!

 

I really, really want to do it, then I look at all of my Marines and think "No way in hell."

 

A tip of the hat though, sir!

 

As far as optics, why bother adding any of them? Wouldn't any optical enhancements be built into the helmet and display across the lenses, with a "smart targeter" reticle, distance enchancements, thermo, prey-sight/terror-sight, etc being transmitted through the bolter and armor to the helm?

 

I know I'm guilty of optics abuse, but then I look at them and go "Why the heck did I add those?"

[Slyen]

For some reason the new bolter doesn't look right.  It might just be that the sight post is gone, though its something with the barrel I think.  I honestly like the IG sights.  They go on well enough and blend in without being to fanciful.  It would also give that kind of Shadowrun smart gun link concept that you are going for.

 

Have you looked at how your marines measure up on a 40mm base?  I ask because I am looking at going this route for a counts as Grey Knights Treminators army.

[Veteran Sergeant]

Have you looked at how your marines measure up on a 40mm base? I ask because I am looking at going this route for a counts as Grey Knights Treminators army.

Funny you should ask that. This guy just started a project log using my technique (2x 1mm legs, 1.5mm torso spacer) and has been fitting them to 40mm bases. http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=137121

As far as optics, why bother adding any of them? Wouldn't any optical enhancements be built into the helmet and display across the lenses, with a "smart targeter" reticle, distance enchancements, thermo, prey-sight/terror-sight, etc being transmitted through the bolter and armor to the helm?

This is more or less the way I've always thought of it. Maybe it just looks a little "plain" right now and I'll get used to it. I'll probably reserve the external targeters for combi-weapons since the secondary weapon occupies the space the targeter array does.

Based off the ruggedized frame of the standard Godywn-Pattern Boltgun, the Invectors Chapter Forges on Cerceus IV created the Cerceus-Pattern Boltgun in M35. Elevating the barrel and feeding mechanism served the dual function of simplifying the internal mechanism which increased reliability, and allowing the use of higher capacity sickle magazines without increasing the overall dimensions of the weapon. The increased recoil caused by the higher bore axis can be problematic for regular human troops, howvever it has proven manageable for the genetically modified Marines of the Scout Company, and is fully compensated for by the power-assisted battle plate worn by the line companies. The weapon features the standard targeter array linked to the Marine helmet's auto-senses, and protected flip-up sights are contained in the weapon's housing for unassisted aiming. While relatively uncommon, the Cerceus-Pattern can found service in other Chapters in the Ultima Segmentum.

First This one sweet model like the way he is kitted out!.

Technically he's kitted the same way as the rest of my Bolter Marines. He's actually one of my "Sternguard", just with the Deathwatch bolter swapped out for the purposes of that picture.

As you can see, the layout is very deliberate. Despite the fact that Marines are ambidextrous, in a manner befitting the Emperor's Will, weapons are typically wielded right handed for efficiency in close formation unless the situation otherwise dictates. As most benefits a right handed shooter, primary ammunition sources are placed closest to the non-firing hand for reloading efficiency. As such, two pouches are placed on the left side of the belt, with a third behind the back presented on a lateral axis. A fourth pouch sits just to the left of the Marine's center, still within easy reach, but de-prioritized for access to grenades.

The Horatius-Pattern Bolt Pistol sits in a holster on the right hip/thigh for quick presentation in the event that the Marine's primary weapon is damaged or otherwise unsuitable for immediate threat engagement. Placement of ammunition for the secondary weapon is not optimal, but instead a compromise with the efficient use of space on the Marine's left side for the larger boltgun ammunition pouches.

Edited January 22, 2014 by Veteran Sergeant

[geektom]

Hey, my first leg extension- all because of you. Looks like crap, but I can only hope it gets better- probably a little ambitious to do it along with a leg bend.

 

Wasn't nearly as hard as I thought- THANK YOU for leading the way.

 

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n60/geektom/image_zpscc190422.jpg

[geektom]

Sorry, one more thing- any examples of how/where you attach melta bombs?

[Veteran Sergeant]

Sorry, one more thing- any examples of how/where you attach melta bombs?

I technically haven't done any yet. But most of my Sergeants have room left specifically for them, and I was just going to use tiny magnets (which I don't have right now, which is why they aren't done).

 

And it's a good first effort. I've been doing these a while and I still make mistakes and not every one of them looks right the first time (I've pulled apart a fair number of models to redo them).

[teblin]

Great stuff. For the repositioned bolter arms, where do you make the cut?

[Forté]

Wow. Your new poses look so much better. And I really like the new bolter arrangement you've done. Makes more sense having the barrel there.

[Veteran Sergeant]

Great stuff. For the repositioned bolter arms, where do you make the cut?

For most models, at both wrists, and then just below the "shoulder" bit. Depending on the need, you might have to make more cuts.

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/9/4/534379_md-Conversion%2C%20Posing%2C%20Space%20Marines%2C%20Tall%20Scale%2C%20Tutorial.jpg

 

On that one specifically, the soft armor on the right wrist was cut free at the wrist ring, and behind the hand. Once free, it was rotated, and then reattached to the arm to create a downward angle instead of the upward one. Thus the original soft armor sculpt is retained, and there's no need for green stuff. The left arm is cut at the wrist (behind the wrist ring is easier, but either way works), and then rotated so that it matches the new angle of the weapon.

[geektom]

 

Great stuff. For the repositioned bolter arms, where do you make the cut?

For most models, at both wrists, and then just below the "shoulder" bit. Depending on the need, you might have to make more cuts.

http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/9/4/534379_md-Conversion%2C%20Posing%2C%20Space%20Marines%2C%20Tall%20Scale%2C%20Tutorial.jpg

 

On that one specifically, the soft armor on the right wrist was cut free at the wrist ring, and behind the hand. Once free, it was rotated, and then reattached to the arm to create a downward angle instead of the upward one. Thus the original soft armor sculpt is retained, and there's no need for green stuff. The left arm is cut at the wrist (behind the wrist ring is easier, but either way works), and then rotated so that it matches the new angle of the weapon.

 

flipping brilliant, amigo.

[Veteran Sergeant]

Two entries in less than a week? I need to be careful lest I make progress. Fortunately the ladyfriend's work schedule, illness amongst my gaming buddies, overcast weather, and no football left me with some time to kill today.

I've had a fair number of ideas for Marines carrying supplementary weapons for a while. Some may remember the one with the looted shuriken catapult, lol. I wanted to create a Marine who was carrying a grenade launcher. Ultimately, the pose I wanted didn't work since my Marines carry so much extra gear already. So this was a compromise. The other problem is that 40K weapons are just so gigantic, even scaled to my taller Marines.

He's also armed with the Cerceus pattern bolter. The pose was created with the idea in mind of eventually mounting him on a hollow base and have him stepping down into a puddle of... some kind of to-be-determined liquid. I used a Chaos shoulderpad, filing off the decorative Chaosy bits, and then bending the skull so it appears to be hanging naturally. The grenade launcher is simply the Cadian launcher with two bolter grips glued onto it and its aquila filed off.

Ultimately the grenade launcher, game-wise, is just a decoration.

[Lord Marshal Ragnrok]

man you always and i mean always do an incredibly excellent job! Keep going!

[Eternal Warrior]

You name a price and I would pay it for 2 squads of true scale marines and a pair of true scale hqs. Great, amazing work. Please keep it up.

[deathspectersgt7]

What do you use to add height at the waste? I'm going to try my hand at 31mm scale .

[Veteran Sergeant]

The waist is 4-5 thin strips of 1.5mm plastic card glued around the rim of the torso, carved round on the inside with a rounded hobby blade, then filed smooth on the outside. I don't typically gap fill between the strips since the pouches cover all of the imperfections on mine. But if you're not going to load them down, you'll need to gap fill parts of it where the strips meet too. This is perhaps the most irritating part of the process, won't lie. It's occurred to me to make a template for it and cut out the middle so it's one solid ring, but that would make too much sense to actually do.

 

The other option is to file the leg "hump" flat at the angle you want the torso to sit, and then just glue a flat section of card to the bottom of the torso and then file the outside edge smooth. That is less effort, but may only work if the figure is going to be standing straight up.