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XBA: The Spear of Telesto

Xenith

By Xenith
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Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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I'm still debating whether I want to buy the easy to build Aggressors or not. I'd love to use them with flamers but I don't really want them to suck. :biggrin.:

 

For £20 you might as well - although you can probably pick up some from tooth and claw for about that now.

 

I imagine they'll get a point drop sometime, or be allowed to use the grenade launcher.

Majkhel Venerable Brother

Majkhel

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I really like the way you just take the minis you like and make them BA :) by those little things you add here and there. I always skipped the DV models cause you know - they are Dark Angels. And here you prove me wrong. Love the assault cannon! 
Captain on bike also got some really nice looks. 
Good job!

Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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Thanks guys!

 

@Majkhel - Yup, once theyre red, no one really questions what Chapter theyre from. The DV terminators required some filing off of traitor icons from their shoulderpads, but BA transfers or freehand will go on there nicely. 

 

DA are particularly good to pillage from due to shared wing iconography. All the fathers that are around also work for BA as Sanguinius actually had feathers. Winged blades are also pretty generic, but a tiny blob of green stuff can either fix the broken sword, or turn it into a winged blood drop (as with my other terminators).

 

The ravenwing black knight box is incredible for bits also - most of my bike captain came from there.  

  • 1 month later...
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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After ETL I've been a little burned out on Blood Angels, doing some work on my nids and making a Thousand Sons Kill Team, however I  remember my pledge to have a full company by the end of 2018...clock is ticking! I need 2 more tactical squads and a few more marines to bulk out units...I also actually want to completely redo my missile launcher dev squad that was done when GW released their new paints - the BA  there are evil suns scarlet, which I stopped doing after like 5 models as it's too hard to paint. 

Edited by Xenith
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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Evil Sunz Scarlet for the win!

 

...

 

...

 

... maybe that's why I'm such a slow painter? :sweat: Possible RTS vow?

 

I painted a unit of dev's and Terminators in this way, but it was a step backwards to the old blood red days for me - multiple thin coats, but having to apply so many for coverage that I often got streaks. Units took months as I hated it. I could cut down the time by doing thicker coats, and the new GW paints are pretty forgiving in this regard (flow better) but you had to be very controlled not to gum up details. 

 

Now its:

Black primer. very light Meph red spray. Fill in the rest with meph red paint. agrax+lahmian recess shade. evil suns highlight. done. 

 

A single model can take under an hour.

 

It's not the vibrant red, which I think looks a little better, but if you do an additional wild rider red/fire dragon bright edge highlight, then you get a nice scarlet colour.

Edited by Xenith
Mostwanted Veteran

Mostwanted

Posted
Posted

 

 

Evil Sunz Scarlet for the win!

 

...

 

...

 

... maybe that's why I'm such a slow painter? :sweat: Possible RTS vow?

I painted a unit of dev's and Terminators in this way, but it was a step backwards to the old blood red days for me - multiple thin coats, but having to apply so many for coverage that I often got streaks. Units took months as I hated it. I could cut down the time by doing thicker coats, and the new GW paints are pretty forgiving in this regard (flow better) but you had to be very controlled not to gum up details.

 

Now its:

Black primer. very light Meph red spray. Fill in the rest with meph red paint. agrax+lahmian recess shade. evil suns highlight. done.

 

A single model can take under an hour.

 

It's not the vibrant red, which I think looks a little better, but if you do an additional wild rider red/fire dragon bright edge highlight, then you get a nice scarlet colour.

When I did test models, I did a couple using Mephiston Red on different undercoat but they all came out pretty dark for me. I ended up using Evil Sunz Scarlet for the base of my Blood Angels.

 

You say you use a mix of Agrax and Lahmian to do the shade, could you tell me what the Lahmian does for the shade rather than just straight Agrax?

Panzer Veteran

Panzer

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

 

Evil Sunz Scarlet for the win!

...

...

... maybe that's why I'm such a slow painter? :sweat: Possible RTS vow?

I painted a unit of dev's and Terminators in this way, but it was a step backwards to the old blood red days for me - multiple thin coats, but having to apply so many for coverage that I often got streaks. Units took months as I hated it. I could cut down the time by doing thicker coats, and the new GW paints are pretty forgiving in this regard (flow better) but you had to be very controlled not to gum up details.

Now its:

Black primer. very light Meph red spray. Fill in the rest with meph red paint. agrax+lahmian recess shade. evil suns highlight. done.

A single model can take under an hour.

It's not the vibrant red, which I think looks a little better, but if you do an additional wild rider red/fire dragon bright edge highlight, then you get a nice scarlet colour.

 

When I did test models, I did a couple using Mephiston Red on different undercoat but they all came out pretty dark for me. I ended up using Evil Sunz Scarlet for the base of my Blood Angels.

You say you use a mix of Agrax and Lahmian to do the shade, could you tell me what the Lahmian does for the shade rather than just straight Agrax?

 

 

I actually think Mephiston Red is rather bright and was considering switching to something darker maybe lol

Edited by sfPanzer
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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It's something a little different I find - the medium gas different liquid properties, I think lower surface tension than water - which means it tends to flow better into crevices rather than having the tendancy to pool on a surface - straight agrax painted into recesses in armour panels often leaves some agrax on the surface of the plate, while with lahmian in find it all slips into the recess.

 

On a larger scale, it reduces the tendancy of washes to stain the entire surface of a model one colour - wash +medium will flow more and be thinner, with the dual effect of shading the recesses while maintaining the original colour.

 

Citadel washes do not react well with water, and often give a cloudy appearance when laid on too thick as the pigments and medium begin to settle and separate (just like in the pot). Lahmian prevents this, to an extent.

Edited by Xenith
  • 4 weeks later...
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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So I did a thing...

gallery_58096_15020_214135.jpg

gallery_58096_15020_471834.jpg

gallery_58096_15020_37937.jpg

I've been toying with the Flesh Tearers for a while, and many times I've wished I had started with Seth's buddies instead of BA, although I wouldnt swap my collection for the world.

I have a bunch of Primaris, and 30k marines which I wanted to do as either BA's or FT's, and both armies might end up a mix of both...

Edited by Xenith
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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I also made up a quick tutorial for the Flesh Tearer saw blade Chapter Badge:



  1. So this is surprisingly easy. To start with, get your shoulderpad to black in your normal manner. In my example, I want to combine the purpley-red of the Khorne red armour with blue highlights. The shoulderpad is Chaos Black spray, coat of Abaddon Black, thick highlight of Dark Reaper, then an extreme highlight of Fenrisian Grey. gallery_58096_12082_622033.jpg
  2. Next is the hard part. Paint a perfect or near perfect circle with Ulthuan Grey. Do this in 2 – 3 thinned coats, rather than in one thick pass. gallery_58096_12082_153472.jpg
  3. Tidy up any splotches of grey with Abaddon black, generally tidy up the circle and make it as neat and circular as possible
  4. This is where the magic happens. With thinned Abaddon Black and as fine a brush as you have, paint a series of lines at a 45 degree angle from the edge of the circle. Repeat this going all the way around the circle. While the lines are all 45 degrees from the tangent of the circle, they should not be parallel to one another, if possible. gallery_58096_12082_461569.jpg
  5. Continue all the way around the circle until you have completed the saw teeth. This doesn’t have to be precise or perfect, and will look great from 3 feet away – we’re just giving the general impression of teeth. The key is to keep the paint thin and flowing. You don’t have to be too neat as outside the circle is also black – just put the tip of the brush inside the circle where you want the tooth to start, then drag the brush directly back to outside the circle – black on black conceals all manner of sins. gallery_58096_12082_283751.jpg
  6. If you make a mistake, or are unhappy with a saw tooth, just cover it with thinned ulthuan grey, let it dry, then try again!
  7. Using Khorne Red, paint a tear drop in the centre of the saw blade. GW has many tutorials on painting tear drops, and I’ll make my own someday! gallery_58096_12082_250084.jpg
  8. Tidy up the rough edges of the blood drop using straight brush strokes of Ulthuan Grey.

That's it, I hope you find it useful!


  • 3 weeks later...
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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So in m quest to complete a company (it's taken so long the non primaris marines are being phased out) here is the start of the 5th squad of the 4th company:

gallery_58096_15071_54869.jpg

Unit has a veteran serge with storm bolter and power maul, the first 5 men have a grav cannon they look pretty tasty this edition and have seemingly high burst damage - a potential max damage of 12 per cannon should give my opponent pause for thought.

The focus is getting 10 units made and painted in batches of 5, then building them up to 10 men when I return to the unit. After ETL I found that I really don't like painting 10 models at once - I like painting single models to completion, 10 at once kills any desire. 5 is a good number to work with, and allows me to give each the care and attention I want to give to it!

Edited by Xenith
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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Very nice! What is that very nice metal model? I don't seem to recognize it. 

 

 

One of the old "Space Marine Veterans" from.... 4th Ed, I think?

 

Before it was Vanguard/ Sternguard.

 

Only one of the most awesome space marines ever sculpted! Charlo has the right of it - when the 4th ed "space marine veterans" were released, both a 5 man box came out, and some of the models in blisters. There were 6 models in total, the sergeant with fist was unique to the box, while this guy was only available in the blisters - packaged with a random other veteran model, and random right arm.

 

Saw him. Had to have him. He's languished without paint for over a decade, but no longer!

 

Link to all.

Edited by Xenith
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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The big ass power axe was one of the first things I painted getting back into the hobby in 2014!

 

A totally excellent model.

 

Hidden Content

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah177/nevscorner/20141218_224050_zps36xyobop.jpg

 

Yes. I need that model. In metal though, not resin. Might have to try and hunt a box down as a Sanguinala present to myself. Both powerfist sergeants were also cool sculpts. 

Edited by Xenith
Charlo Venerable Brother

Charlo

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Posted

 

The big ass power axe was one of the first things I painted getting back into the hobby in 2014!

 

A totally excellent model.

 

Hidden Content

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah177/nevscorner/20141218_224050_zps36xyobop.jpg

 

Yes. I need that model. In metal though, not resin. Might have to try and hunt a box down as a Sanguinala present to myself. Both powerfist sergeants were also cool sculpts. 

 

 

Mine is straight metal from the first release B)

  • 1 month later...
Xenith Venerable Brother

Xenith

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I made a little progress on the 5th Tactical Squad last week - undercoat and basecoat done.

Still getting to grips with the camera on my new phone. It's the upgraded version of the older one and I dont know why the photos are coming out super blurry...

gallery_58096_15071_733388.jpg

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