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Today in the hobby I....


Aegnor

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YITHI had about 24 hours of curing 2:1 Green Stuff:yellow-grey Miliput in my Blue Stuff molds:

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And finally, some stuff I still need to clean:

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Unfortunately I have to redo about a 1/3rd of my molds, and probably find a better way to apply pressure to the molds so that these set better, but overall I'm pretty pleased. I do have one gem with a messed up tip, but I'd like to think (if it doesn't happen again) that it's just an opportunity to indicate some battle damage.

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YITHI had about 24 hours of curing 2:1 Green Stuff:yellow-grey Miliput in my Blue Stuff molds:

med_gallery_59244_7045_314801.jpeg

med_gallery_59244_7045_282365.jpeg

And finally, some stuff I still need to clean:

med_gallery_59244_7045_626478.jpeg

Unfortunately I have to redo about a 1/3rd of my molds, and probably find a better way to apply pressure to the molds so that these set better, but overall I'm pretty pleased. I do have one gem with a messed up tip, but I'd like to think (if it doesn't happen again) that it's just an opportunity to indicate some battle damage.

You are using that reheatable blue stuff? I could never get that to work as it warped as it dried or drying time was too quick before it could catch details properly.

In the past i was using Tamiya yellow and white (both two part putties, yellow is harder, white is soft version) and would make the molds as well as final parts from same material, just brushing some oliveoil on the part/mould beforehand as mold release.

I even added a drop of paint to the mold putty when mixing it so it would have a different color then parts made from it. (That way you can tell where the seam is Or any broken bits are excess are part of the mold)

Also ensure you roll the part putty carefully into the mold to ensure it's getting in the deep recesses of the mold. (though it seems you have that part down)

Edited by Syrakul
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Today I undercoated about 40-50 Orks, received my 9th edition rulebook and an Archaeopter in the post and got stuck assembling the latter because I need to paint the interior first and I'd already packed the airbrush away for the day. Looks like I'm re-learning the rules until I can restart painting tomorrow. Quite a busy day in the hobby for me.

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YITH I had a really bad day depression-wise, but conversely a really good day painting-wise, as it was the only thing that seemed able to hold my attention at all. 5 Assault Intercessors are now one fine Dawnstone highlight and some freehanding away from completion, then I'm going to make a start on a Venerable Dreadnought I rescued from eBay.

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YITH, so since I lacked the drive to start decal work on one project. I started to build my Taurox Prime, least to continue digging out the pile of shame.

 

I'm going to make it into a half track so once I get it a bit built up I'll see what I need to do to connect the wheels I got to the front axle.

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YITHI got the home office cleaned up a bit so I have a hobby space. It’s been literal decades since I built minis on the regular, so I’m starting from scratch. I cleaned up and dry fit a squad of DW terminators from the Dark Vengeance box. Felt good just to see some models standing up on their own.
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Today in the Hobby I tried painting OSL on my Archaeopter pilot using my airbrush. The result was pretty bad. Will clearly need to practice both getting the paint dilution and trigger under control. It will look fine under the canopy. I finished assembling the sub-assemblies so ready for undercoating tomorrow.

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You are using that reheatable blue stuff? I could never get that to work as it warped as it dried or drying time was too quick before it could catch details properly.

Yes sir!

 

I heat a mug of water up (about 3/4ths full) for 4.25 minutes in the microwave, and let the Blue Stuff sit in there for at least 3 minutes. Pull the ball out, and then pinch off a chunk that will cover what I'm press molding (I try not to get so little that it will be thin, I've noticed that seems to curl more as it dries, and nice chunky piece really won't), and then cram it down pretty stinkin' hard (that is a very specific level of force applied), then leave it for about 18 hours. At the point it should be firm and relatively easy to get off. Then I jam my putty mixed balls in about as hard as I can and smash it down more with a rolling motion, then press some more, and then leave it to cure for about 24 hours. Pop out the molded item and cut the excess hardened putty off and a nice sharp knife.

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Bit of Warhammer ADHD flipping around projects. With no possibility of any gaming for the foreseeable future I have no incentive to focus on something

Anyways i got a ton of old necromunda stuff, was my jam back in 90's so good bit of nostalgia here for me. Full esher/delaque teams but all questionably painted. Here are two eshers I tried overpainting (nope, gotta strip I guess) and some LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner at work on a few (3 hours in now)

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Edited by Syrakul
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TITH I tested out some schemes for my nids:

really cool neo-80's style! not a fan of the yellow face on 2 but with eyes and teeth colored in could work. Is this using turbodork paints?

 

Thanks! I'm going for an 80's synthwave vibe. This is actually using a mix of Vallejo and Daler Rowney FW inks and then some Vallejo Model Colors. The yellow face needs details. I'm going to try some blue eyes (glazed) and probably a recess wash in the teeth to make the mouth pop.

 

Open to basing suggestions! No idea what to do there.

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Nice day for acquisitions.

 

Went to the local FLGS in my mother's town (don't think I have one in Cambridge anymore) and bought myself a Predator, SW Terminators, new hobby drill and spare bits. The kits are actually part of my larger hobby (30K) goals but wanted to put some money through their till even though I could get them cheaper online.

 

Ebay was a good day, DA and GK Terminator Apothecary gubbinz ordered to eventually make a Tartaros Speaker of the Dead and 30 of the previous hex style (around in 4th-5th ed for sure) paint pots to use as "painting handles" as that's how I used to do it. I'll probably get a few actual handles for Terminators etc down the line but for standard infantry these should work great.

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Im imagining dark-black Tron grid juxtaposed with the colored models; could look realistic with cracked earth painted black with grey highlights.

 

Then use some reddish tufts like some blasted alien landscape, to get that classic red on black

Not a bad idea. I was thinking today about doing fluorescent pink lava. It'd keep the 80's vibe and could probably be done quickly. I've seen the grid style done with this theme and I don't think I want that look since it's pretty rigid and the models are fairly fluid and organic.

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YITH I got some time in on these bladeguard and captain. Visiting hours at the hospital for baby spoon are limited for Dads so I’ve tried to keep my mind off things by picking up the paintbrush. These guys get classic edge highlights as veterans/characters opposed to drybrushing. Hopefully it doesn’t stand out too much.

 

60 complete

4 WIP

61 remaining.

 

PBapxl7.jpg

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TitHi have seen a copy of Blackstone Fortress and Escalation with foam for the core game for £115 posted and I'm seriously considering it.

 

Looks like a fantastic game, I just know I'd want all the expansions and most of my funds go into my 30K hobby. Maybe this would be a nice break?

 

Edit: Never mind, missed it. Should have realised that was a good price posted. Still tempted to pick the system up as a pallette cleanser and eventually source the expansions (I'm a bit of a completionist).

Edited by Hfran Morkai
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