Death Guard CSM, Iron Warrior Legion, DIY Primaris LOPLOG

[Marius Perdo]

@PowerHungry Monkey: Ta. This is what happens when sorting through HH stuff and the RG hide ;) Weirdly about painting....

 

I am in no rush, got so much finalising to do on builds but...I found some old AOBR and I was going to use them as testers for the chipped and weathered gunmetal, trying for several undercoats as I have a few recipes and techniques in mind. When I am happy with one then I'll pick one of the 20 to replace with a nuncio vox model and then I'll paint that selected one properly as the first test model and weirdly the start of the second Legion tactical squad.

 

I have a fortnight off over Christmas and New Year so I can commit to finishing off a test model by end of week commencing 30/12/2019.

[Marius Perdo]

These arrived today.

They are Big in Japan.

Ahem.

I'll get my cloak.

Now I need to dig out all the other gribblies after making bases.

So I'll flit between projects of DG and IW.

[Marius Perdo]

Building 20 breachers all at once was a bit daunting, so I decided to do the transport for 10.

A very long time ago I built a land raider for a mates Tzeentch chaos army (the first land raider I ever built as it happens apart from the really old RT ones). When he got out of the hobby about 20 years ago he gave me his stuff which was a bit of a mess.

It languished in a box for years, and then I took it apart after stripping with Dettol (which did not go brilliantly - you can see where old plastic chaos vehicle upgrade sprue plates were attached) and from FW I added a MKIIb kit, and FW extra armour, and a FW chaos top front door and FW chaos tracks.

Thus the lascannon muzzles missing as they used to be gargoyle heads.

So, about a decade and a half later I will finally make it into an Iron Warriors Legion Phobos MkIIB Land Raider.

I have wanted some Blood and Skulls tracks for years and got loads (for 4 Land Raiders, this one, another for UM Breachers, an Alpha- Achilles and some for a 40K DG Land Raider, as well as the 10 "rhinos" and some for the Tormentor).

This gives it a HH vibe along with the MKIIB kit that makes it fit in with the Proteus etc.

I have some of the old FW gunners and I am going to use a MKII with an IW head and a HH FW pintle mounted multi-melta - again this ties it to a Legion/HH feel and look.

I am going to use some of the OOP FW spaced armour at the front, mainly to keep showing the tracks and make it easier to fit magnetised frag launchers if I put termies in it. It also will look very bulky/beefy and very IW to me, I may fill the gap bewteeh the space with plasti-card so it is solid/sealed.

The spaced rear (with eagles all over it) and the front extra armour (with more eagles) are off to the left of the photo and I'll use those on the UM breacers Land Raider as that won't have launchers as it will only be for breachers and not termies.

This will need some TLC to pull it up to the standards I tend to build to nowadays but I can easily see it as my eyesight is less of an issue with tanks. Weirdly I almost have sub assemblies to work on, like main hull and tracks, sponsons, gunner, heavy bolter "turret" - but I am really looking forward to painting this like my old Minotaur rhino and using similar techniques - especially for hazard striping.

Yes, when built it will be straight onto paint.

Edit: Just dry fit some of the B&S tracks - having utter HH/Epic 40k plastic LR tank feels.

Edited December 12, 2019 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

Slowly coming together. I'll magnetise the frag launchers.

[Kolgrim DeathHowl]

What type of Land Raider is that? It's different than the normal ones, I like it!

[Marius Perdo]

@Kolgrim DeathHowl: Old salvaged plastic with FW MKIIb Upgrade Kit, FW OOP MKII gunner with IW upgrade helm, FW pintle Multi-melta, FW OOP IW ramp upper door, FW IW OOP Rhino Doors, converted FW Deimos predator hatch, FW LR OOP spaced armour (front) and current (rear) and B&S Liberator Tracks and frag launchers from the LR crusader/redeemer spruce/kit. Edited December 12, 2019 by Marius Perdo

[Kolgrim DeathHowl]

Alot of different bits there but it turned out really neat, I ordered an Achilles from a 3d printing place waiting for that to come in. Kind of a shot in the dark if it was a good idea or not but it was pretty cheap compared to buying it from FW.

[Marius Perdo]

@Kolgrim DeathHowl: Ta. I got a lot years ago when either not OOP and/or cheaper. Still have an original Achilles built for WH40K and an Alpha to build for HH.

[Kolgrim DeathHowl]

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with them!

[Marius Perdo]

Heroes Series 1 Japan exclusives (as in not in the UK lot) are in Space Marine Adventures: Labyrinth of the Necrons. Basically flamer, heavy bolter and auspex.

Not available in UK but B&N will actually ship to UK now which all in is less than eBay and for some reasons customs ignored. Was cents over $50.

So now I have them all, and I like them, but now I can cast those last 3 bases.

I also have a series 2 Japan that has the heavy flamer/chainfist exclusive but that won't arrive until January so I'll do these now and him then.

Been working on the Land Raider for my IW, sorting out all the fiddly pinning for the pintle gunner.

Part 2:

I looked through my sabre kit and noted that the mounting bracket for the "secondary" guns was very blocky and could be made from scratch, green stuff lifted etc.

This mean for pintle guns without gunners on HH tanks they'd be possibly great. Especially the multi-melta and heavy flamer whose fuel pipes could be heated and bent to flow into outlet pipes in the turret/hatch. Did a wee proof of concept for when I do another tank:

I think it will work. Need to add small plastic cube risers though to lift the hatch up as it is flush with the hull as it is from a deimos predator (if I recall).

Working on a searchlight/HK combo using plastic Ravenwing upgrade sprue Landspeeder tornado nose bracket for the searchlight with that kit and a plastic vehicle accessory sprue HK to go on top of the land raider (where the assault cannon would go).

Also ordered a heavy assault tank dozer blade from Kromlech as I would mount with magnets to the spaced armour anyway, which I was going to paint separately anyway, so it won't stop me building and painting.

Edited April 11, 2020 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

Note before doing any of this, if you have the bits, lay everything out, file and clean, line up, make sure tracks running the correct way and on the correct side - less of an issue for the land raider but more so for the rhino.

This is more a note to self (and for a mate who is getting some for his Imperial Fists) but if you use the Liberator tracks it may help.

Land Raider (add-on kit comes with 1 track and 6 tracks sections, needs two kits per tank) - from rear to front -

• a 2 track section (made from 2 1 track sections with the rear most half cylinder cut off so if fits under the rear track guard)
• 1 track section at curve
• a 6 track section
• a 7 track section (6+1) - this is actually the track run in contact with the ground - however leave gap as per photo below prior to the next section
• a 6 track section (the last in ground contact prior to curving up)
• a 3 track section (make from 3 x1 track section)
• a 1 track section
• a 6 track section (which goes in well under the track guard/headlight at the front)
  
  

The Rhino (add-on comes with 8 track sections, 4 track sections, 3 track sections, 1 track sections - with offset teeth like the rhino plastic kit so one for each side in the kit)

From rear to front:

• 2 track section (made from 2x1) - mirrors rhino plastic kit track exactly
• 1 track section - mirrors rhino plastic kit exactly
• 3 track section - mirrors rhino plastic kit track exactly
• 14 tracks section - made from 1 track section + 8 track section + 4 track section + 1 track section - ends up equally and mirroring the rhino plastic kit 14 tack section
• 3 track section
• 1 track section
• 2 track section (made from 2x1 track sections)

Unlike the land raider they fit exactly and perfectly - disturbingly so, I’d have expected some shrinkage with resin.

As can be seen using the FW Vindicator kits and these tracks you can take a very abused rhino and uplift (and keep the plastic mint sprues spare).

I have a few rhinos that I stripped badly over the years so if I get a laser destroyer I'll use one of those.

The less damaged look like they will uplift nicely to deimos predators/rhinos/scorpius etc.

Edited April 11, 2020 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

Done some more work on the vindicator.

The gun will be magnetised for straight ahead, all up, in between.

Magnetising shennanigans will be going on with the dozer blade (stock bit) and mine plough - magnets where white stuff is for hull front mounting points, cut and lift the under hull mounting points - when I do it and take pictures it will make more sense.

The HH FW vindicator kits with B&S tracks really can take an utterly ruined rhino and recycle it.

Edited December 18, 2019 by Marius Perdo

[Son of Sacrifice]

I really, really love this thread so much. Your conversions and character bashes are just exceptional. That warsmith is world class.

[Marius Perdo]

@Sons of Sacrifice: Thanks mate, glad you enjoy it. That warsmith is world class at making me constantly fiddle and add, I'll never finish him

I have pottered with things over my two weeks off, but Christmas is for kids and with a 4 year old I have (quite rightly) had little spare time.

I have planned all sorts of projects with a mate (the one who is working on his Imperial Fists Legion to square off against my Iron Warriors), some of which have no place here (Warcry and AoS at Meeting Engagement size) but others that do.

He is doing Imperial Fists Primaris for 41K so having dug out my Death Guard I'll have a think and plan an army, we are playing at 50 PL due to time constraints so I will probably have built everything already (assuming I don't use pox walkers and cuiltists but I probably need a squad of each of those for theme). Narratively it will be around the 4th Plague Company and the Outbreak Arcanum from the space hulk Mother of Miseries - lots of industrial terrain representing hives/ships/docks etc.

We might play the occasional Kill Team linked in.

Also Necromunda - he has the starter box and is working on the 10 default Eschers (we are going with Skirmish mode) - I have 50 Goliaths (built the stock 10), all the FW upgrade kits, lots of other exciting bits, and I am working on my Dark Uprising terrain (two sets) and Zone Mortalis Tile Sets (I have two and two on back order since November).



I found watching Warhammer TV helpful, when Mark Bedford talks about painting the board he did (with the corpse grinder) - (Battlefields with Mark Bedford from 2 montsh ago) but I'll use slightly less fast techniques, like hairspray and sand, and floor wax for fitting transfers etc.

However his spray can technique worked a treat, and cheap acrylic cans work well (like half the price of GW for 20% more or better). I used a matte black as an undercoat, a patchy steel, then patchy grey primer, the very light white primer zenithal.

Now to add masking tape blocked and striped colours over sand an hairspray (black/yellow/red) using the original Underhive box tiles and the Dark Uprising vinyl mat as a guide/inspiration.

Edited April 11, 2020 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

So first off I did hairspray and sand masked off.



It works but I'd have been just as well sponging on (chaos) black and then stippling (codex) grey over it. Some of my paints are that old. I also learnt to really dry off the sponge as you can see where paint linked under the mask.

Also I have no idea what was in the hairspray but it needed a nail brush to shift - tooth brush was not good enough. I also found that running the nail brush over the entire tile lifted powder paint - which was good - and revealed more tones.

Note the warm tone is from yellow light, if you like this maybe sponging on lightly with Bleached Bone would have a similar effect. or Rotting Flesh if you like that Armageddon Steel Legion military look.

I then added the 42 from the Necromunda transfer sheet and the delta from the Minotaurs one.

I used the hazard striping from the old space marine vehicle kit and overlapped them for several reasons:

• Even with Iron Warriors with 30 odd sheets I'll never need them all.
• Some are very old, and likely to come apart easily which would be great for weathering.
• They are at the small end where trying to use masks would irritate me - it was only later I remembered my IWs brass etch has a mask built in.

I sprayed Klear through my air brush in strips to sit them on, and then did the full micro Sol/Set/Flat to fit, overlapping the decals to line them up.

When dry I picked away at them with a scalpel for initial weathering, then lightly tooth brushed to remove anything flaky. Note the quality of some is bad, with yellow outlines around black etc and this got rid of all of that.

I then lightly sponged (Codex) Grey over the entire tile but especially blending in the black and the hazard stripes. Edit: I think I did a teeny bit of Fortress Grey too.

Then (Chaos) Black and (Scorched) Brown which was starting to look great (to me), and then I tried a wee bit of (Boltgun) Metal which just looked grey, so I went back over with the Black/Brown again.

I then remembered to quickly do some bases that I had sprayed with the cans at the same time as the tiles.



It is all going quite well and I haven't even used any washes etc.

It is in the garage now with an all over shell of Klear drying as next will be the oil wash*, and then after that the weathering powers (then seal with clear laquer and de-gloss with purity seal).

I will test one of the bases first with the last bits as that is the part that went sideways with the Minotaurs rhino years ago.

I have ordered a lot of 6mm x 2mm magnets for the walls but I can get one with gluing them into L shapes and I have another 7 tiles I can start sponge stipling masked patterns onto and transfers etc.

*Edit: I will use some graphite for scratches, then seal with Klear, then weathering powders and some more graphite, then seal with Klear, then clear laquer then purity seal (but I found some Klear Kote Matte amongst my dark materials).

Edit 2: I have used some Rowney artists turps with horrid cheap white spirits and some burnt umber oil paint, two very thin coats so far then I'll use a brush with some spirits to blend/remove etc but at this point everything is going splendidly and I am actually quite pleased, which is rare.

However the walls won't build themselves so I might do some more of those and/or ponder the patterns on Underhive card tiles/Dark Uprising mat as inspiration for patterns on the other ZM tiles.

I also have some resin ZM doors, which I need to work out how much I'll have to file and how they will fit into this set (as 2 DU sets only have double and single doors x4).

Edited January 4, 2020 by Marius Perdo

[Kolgrim DeathHowl]

Nice work so far!!

[Marius Perdo]

@Kolgrim DeathHowl: Ta mate.

Doing masks for the other tiles, nearly all done, two examples.



the unblocked one will be yellow, then I'll mask in stripes and add black.

The other will be (Khorne) Red (Gore).

On the test tile two thin coats of burnt umber oil wash, no blending or thinning off as yet - I will do this with some old cotton bed sheet I use as dust sheets as I don't want fibres coming away on the board, Very smelly (which is a good sign) still as cold in the garage so lots of time to work the material.

I'll probably spray some white spirit over it and work in some VERY thinned down lamp black with burnt umber into deeper recesses - I learnt my lesson with over doing oil washes on my Minotaur's rhino.

The bases went well - I was surprised as I had quite a lot of white spray spatter on them but it has added character. I am also less hesitant about taking the bases and tiles too light as everything darkens down nicely.

After masking I'll do the bases - I have a bag with bases for all 50 of my Goliaths, my 10 Eschers/Van Saar/Orlocks/Cawdor/various FW resin hired guns/ambots/sumpkroc etc but I'll add a bit more white spray to the tiles when I do the final spraying and/or add a sponging with Foretess Grey after Codex Grey as I am less concerned about taking it too light.

Enjoying myself immensely.

Edited May 21, 2021 by Marius Perdo

[Axineton]

Great stuff mate! Love all of it.

 

Edited January 4, 2020 by Axineton

[Kolgrim DeathHowl]

Looking forward to seeing more of them done.

[Marius Perdo]

So, the test bases are going well, just need a Klear* seal through the airbrush and then weathering powders:

However the masking and using hairspray and sand has not been exactly brilliant. Paint bleed ruined any definition. Even with a less strong hold hairspray it was a bugger to get off.

In future I think I'll mask off, use latex via sponge, then sponge on paint, then rub off latex with tack - I have used it in the past to good effect (munitorum crate) but it destroys tack by the pack load..

I then went too far with the sponging, as my sponge was over laden and I just did not ease off.

Ted can relate.

So I then feathered black, grey, and white spray cans over the top. It means the painted areas are even more worn but so be it.

The others that I didn't mess up with sponging - yet.

As can be seen the sand was so thick that removing it took nearly all the red paint.

I also found that two thin coats of burnt umber wash was too much, but a fine misting of artists turps and then rubbed with tight weaved cloth (hard but absorbent enough to take the oil off but not enough to damage):

Quite pleased.

Learnt a lot and have a clear idea of what I want to do and lessons learnt.

• *Klear is a great seal - to put decals on, to protect decals afterwards from turps, to blend oil washes on top of BUT do each layer all at once as the airbrush needs serious cleaning afterwards (it is floor wax after all)
• Hairpsray/sand is too slow and messy (but not as messy as salt and certainly not as bad as Marmite) - sponge on latex after masking and then sponge on paint - Mark Bedford has the right of this regards painting with sponges
• Transfers work well and "pop" but need weathering and damaging - but they are the slowest step and I'll need to source the stuff to make my own (using the downloads at Battle Bunnies) or hope GW release some that match the Underhive tiles - this is an issue as they need to go on early and get sealed and then weathered over - including the sponging
• Less is more with oil washes - thin diluted coats and then let dry for a few hours and then blend/thin with cloth - however it is better than inks and GW washes as you have a lot of time to work the material and can remove in with turps if it all goes wrong.

Note as I need a Klear coat on before adding powders I'll get everything up to this level - so what is everything?

• All 8 tiles (and another 8 coming)
• The walls and doors from 2 DU but they need assembling and 6mm x 2mm magnets adding (500 in post)
• The doors and things from the Underhive box
• Loads of Sector Mechanicus stuff from earlier in the thread but I will spray them various browns over black from the airbrush, then heavily sponge on latex and then sponge on the paint after that, then tac off, then Klear seal, then oil wash.

So, lots and lots of building for me - ZM and SM stuff.

I also need to dig out all my various brown paints. I got a load of Vallejo ones years ago for an eldar project I never did.

Edited May 23, 2021 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

Fairly self explanatory play/salvage of old crate testing contrast and latex.

Sealed with Klear and currently curing in garage with first oil wash - this is to get a feel for the Sector Mechanicus technique.

[Marius Perdo]

Magnets arrived, 22 columns to build then 3 double walls (still on sprue) and 15 single walls (still on sprue).



The the doors, then the ZM doors, and the UH doors, and the barricades...

This is going to take age.

Strong Xandir.

[Marius Perdo]

4 columns to go until magnetising, then the walls...

Needed a change:

First is the thin oil wash from days ago, then some sponged skull white as it looked to blocky, then some black and brown mixed sponged on.

Brushed on some Klear, in the garage now with another thin blending oil wash over it all. Then Klear and some weathering powders and when happy some Aclad 2 Klear Kote Matte through an air brush.

So, what I have learnt:

• If not massively rusted (Zone Mortalis), like the floor tiles, black spray then feathered/zenithal other sprays
• Masking can have mixed results with leakage etc. - I will use it as very old and faded marking and transfers for more recent stuff
• Hairspray and sand is hit and miss (hard to control fine sand), hard work to get off, and is not the way forward for a balance of effect against time and effort
• Transfers on top of Klear, and treated with the full Micro Sol/Set/Flat then more Klear before sponging are hard wearing, aren't moving, and look great (especially once the oil wash goes on)
• Sponging on black/dark brown mix looks great - just remember less is more Father Ted
• Klear is amazing at providing sealing layers and goes on thin and spreads evenly even by brush, as (floor) wax needs a lot of airbrush cleaning so only do mass work when loads is ready otherwise wastes time repeatedly cleaning
• Oil washes work great, seriously dilute though and less is more - try thin coats and if it goes wrong just wipe off with turps - note whether Rowney artists or coarse decorating turps I got exactly the same results (if not smell)
• If massively rusted (Sector Mechanicus) black and then a mix of rusty browns - sprays will be better than sponging different browns (as I tested on the Munitorum Crate)
• Cheap acrylic spray paints are fine for this sort of work - I need to get some browns and light colours - car shops (Halfords) or even pound shops will probably do, so long as acrylic matt
• Light colours (like white, yellow, pale blue tc.) will contrasts great with the rusty browns and show up oil washes/weathering really well
• As hairpsray and latex masks have mixed results and are very slow to get off I am going back to Marmite, it just washes off - I had loads but the missus seems to have eaten it - next she'll steal my hairspray to spray on her hair or some-such nonsense!
• To blend the rusted effect against the primary paint colour, and stop obvious blocks of colour, a patchiness can be easily added using a sponge and whatever colour will show up best i.e. with the container the white sponged on really effectively over the rusty brown
• Even with the mixed browns for rust as a base the black/dark brown sponge mix still looks great and is a must
• The Klear seal and then oil wash is more workable and modify-able than the irreversible GW washes/inks etc (and far, far cheaper - I have had the oil paints for over a decade and the tubes are still practically full and they don't dry out)
• This might be a little bit slower than what I saw Mark Bedford do (maybe an extra 20% time) but I think with the flexibility of the oil washes and weathering powders, and the extra depth they and transfers add, it is probably worth it
• If I ever want to go back in an add some metallics I'll use Rub and Buff metallic waxes, Klear coat the part in question, and then add an oil wash (thinking brass plates on Sector Mechanics stuff for example) - then seal again

Note speed is the key here, there is so much to do just for 8 floor tiles and 2 DU boxed sets to play the Necromunda 17 Underhive stuff with plastic Zone Mortalis scenery - that unless reasonable can be obtained quite quickly it is likely to become very demotivating.

Off to Leeds tomorrow for an all week course so I guess I'll be reading Necromunda books on my tablet and not fiddling with plastic but my goal is for all columns (24) to be built and magnetised before I go to bed - as stated down to the last 4.

Edited March 27, 2020 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

Well, work didn't stop since Leeds.

Then flu and strep, then C-19 (which I caught and kept working - IT key worker) which has made the working world a different place.

Still WFH and as things are a wee bit calmer I actually found myself back to having a hobby itch I have to scratch, unless it is another infection from Papa.

So, I bought these and got one with Conquest sub:

The Silver Templars has a transfer sheet, which just like the Aurora one I got from GW I'd like to believe I'll use but never will.

I am not going to be doing these. I got them a while ago.

I am saving these for Later (probably much, much later). My daughter wants to build them but she is only 4, so much later.

The SoB boxes were cheap as somewhere had well over-ordered, couldn't sell, had 10+ in stock, and when the price went down into double figures I picked up two (and that was in early march).

However, the tracks from B&S for LRs really inspired me.

I stalled with DG for a variety of reasons:

• 40 cultists
• 20+ pox walkers
• chaos lords/terminators, sorceror lords/terminators, possessed moving too fast, not having enough T, and no Disgustingly Resilient - codex filler really which with a teeny bit of effort would not feel jarring and incongruous
• Imperial tanks that would need a lot to chaosify - especially the tracks
• I have enough compulsory tasks through parenthood and work without inflicting them on myself during free (limited) time

Well the tracks are now covered off, if anything they have a sort of organic curve with the linkage that fits really well.

I have been coughing up matter that is an inspiration as far as a colour palette goes.

The fiddling with the container for Necromunda gave me a lot of ideas for painting corroded vehicles fast.

The War of the Spider will have rules for Plague companies - this is inspiring as it Gump's Chocolate Box at the moment - but I want to do something now...not sure what the 4th will get - lots of psychic stuff.

The Japanese DG models are great. As are their bases.

Regards vehicles I need to move away from all the right angles - look at the curves and scallops on blight drones, mephitic haulers, and plagueburst crawler for inspiration (and corrosion patterns etc.) - as well as spare kits from Conquest for converting.

But it is not just as simple as gaping maws, lumps of growths, and tentacles asking to snap off. I want a tank, not a vehicle shaped (loosely) chaos spawn pudding.

I'd planned this loosely a while ago, so much so that when I went to the garage to get odd LR bits I couldn't find them, got a mint LR, came in and found an innocuous box on the shelf in my office that had LR and DG on it and inside was LR odds and sods.

I then got a lot of chaos spawn with conquest...all those lovely eyes.

My DG bits box had gotten quite large anyway, including DG PG gunners for vehicles.

So LR, but also 3 rhino chassis from the garage, and some predator bits from an old plastic Baal one.

But first I need to finish building a plagueburst crawler, then a slaughterbrute and then a mutalith vortex beast (purchased for StD for AoS but with this in mind) for reasons that will make sense when you consider I am using the art form the codex with lots of DG tanks in it as my muse.

As an aside the First Wall is also making me really want to finish my Iron Warrior power armour infantry...and ZM terrain.

Edited April 11, 2020 by Marius Perdo

[DuskRaider]

HE LIVES! Great to see you back bud, can't wait for some progress!