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Oof! Failcast... You brave, brave man! :eek:

Not exactly what was in my mind when I tried to fix him. Had a mold line in his face... arr :wallbash:

Once every 6 months I try to paint finecast... this is one of the better models. 

 

For the rivets, I've seen people talk about actual tiny plastic rivets being available, or microbeads in the 1 mm or so size, but those might be too big for your work. Honestly, you can probably just do without them, they really aren't necessary on the pauldrons.

 

That said, Lostrael, I didn't realize I had never posted in your thread. Your painting is fantastic, I love the contrast you achieve and the highlighting is really great. Keep it up, I've really enjoyed looking through your thread in the last few months.

Thanks. :smile.: I hope I'll get this model in a presentable shape too.

~0.3 mm size I would need. *sigh*

 

Thanks. :smile.: I hope I'll get this model in a presentable shape too.

~0.3 mm size I would need. *sigh*

 

There are companies that make such things (example 1, example 2), but I'm really not sure they'd be worth purchasing given their cost.

 

If you would like to make your own instead, there are three main ways of doing so:

 

1) Brass rod. Smooth the end of the brass rod on a fine emery board, drill a hole about 2-3mm deep, carefully measure and clip off the brass rod, and then glue it in. It helps if you use a spot of paint on the end that you filed before you cut it so that you know which end needs to stand proud when you glue it.

 

2) Greenstuff. Roll this out to the desired thickness using a scrap of plastic to ensure that you get it even down it's length. Using a brand new xacto blade, carefully slice off little rivet heads into a small pile. Put some glue on a scrap of plastic, and using a sewing pin/needle, put a spot where you rivet will go. Pick up a rivet from your pile with the new xacto blade til, and put n the tiny spot of glue you've just applied.

 

3) Superglue. Put some glue on a scrap of plastic, and using a sewing pin/needle, put a spot where you rivet will go. When the glue is dry, repeat this. Keep doing this until the dried glue has built up a suitable rivet.

 

Personally, methods #2 and #3 would be my choice for a model of this size and fragility, but it's up to you.

 

Failing that, you can just file the whole area smooth and just paint them on using a brush with a fine tip. As long as you do a slightly bigger dark/shaded roundel, and then put a bright/highlight spot in the centre of each, painted rivets are very convincing at this size!

 

Anyway, good luck, and I look forward to seeing Belial painted. B)

Alternatively, take a trip to nail salon. They have plenty of beads/gems/whatnots they glue on fingernails.

Nail salon :huh.:. I normally give them a wide berth out of fear that their friendly staff would drag me in and decorate my nails with this stuff that would drive me crazy. :sweat:

The rivets are back on the model, more or less where they belong.

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Now doing the other punishing details.

What method did you end up going with for the rivets?

Beautiful free hand on the "repent". The style really brings me back to my tattoo apprenticeship. You should've been a surgeon with steady hands like that!

Some rivets are very small sand grains, some are green stuff. Both glued and put lots of paint on it to smooth the edges.

There are good days and bad when writing scrolls. I had some tries on the rest of the model. Not yet happy. :ermm:

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Great work Lostrael! :tu:

 

I agree the sword is excellent. The script is good too, keep practicing and you'll be king of the skill in no time :D

Don't be afraid to use a pencil first, especially on the bigger letters/words. (and making a frame outline for the letters is a great way to make sure they both fit the space well and to keep the gaps between letters correct)

 

I can't wait to see more...

 

:D

 

2c

Stobz

It looks like Belial got dropped on the wrong spot. Instead of a deepstrike in the heat of battle, he got a mishap to a nice beachresort. He took shelter underneath the shade of the mighty parasol, while he waves his sword to the aproaching thunderhawk.

 

FAQ isn't out yet, so the Landraider in the back had a Deepstrike mishap as well.

 

Oh, and beautifull work on the painting! 

I agree the sword is excellent. The script is good too, keep practicing and you'll be king of the skill in no time :biggrin.:

Don't be afraid to use a pencil first, especially on the bigger letters/words. (and making a frame outline for the letters is a great way to make sure they both fit the space well and to keep the gaps between letters correct)

Guess who has been a good tutor.:thumbsup:

Lostrael, how are you getting that light blue on the wings and DA symbol?

As always, your painting looks top notch!

Used Game Color Glacier Blue instead of white and a mix of this color with turquoise.

I abused the turquoise on that model... the sword has too much on it.

That lettering is pretty rad, and that's some precise painting, it's so good that I can almost ignore how awkward Belial's stock pose is. :tongue.:

Yes, he is a very stiff character.:biggrin.:

It looks like Belial got dropped on the wrong spot. Instead of a deepstrike in the heat of battle, he got a mishap to a nice beachresort. He took shelter underneath the shade of the mighty parasol, while he waves his sword to the aproaching thunderhawk.

FAQ isn't out yet, so the Landraider in the back had a Deepstrike mishap as well.

Not sure if this was a mishap... Tactical Precision and this stuff :wink:

Vow Finished!

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gallery_86236_11073_149934.jpg

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What kit is this head from?

 

 

It's from the FW Dark Angels Head Upgrade set. I didn't really like all that much, but now I've seen it painted so nicely, I've rather changed my mind about it! :tongue.:

 

The legs are from Spellcrow, the backpack is Cypher's, the weapons, arms and holster are from the BaC kit, and the shoulders look like FW Mk3, the torso... looks like a FW Mk3 with the loin armour shortened and a sword added to the breast?

 

If I had one comment (and a nit-picky one at that), it would be to run a little thinned black ink down the sides of the chainsword teeth to separate the silver of the teeth from the red weapon casing. A bit like drilling out bolters, having that separation to suggest that the casing is hollow inside to contain the workings avoids the chainsword looking like a "toy".

 

Anyway, it's a *fantastic* looking model (as always), so well done Lostrael! :biggrin.:

Edited by Major_Gilbear

There is no reason inform the inner circle, it's all heresy.:biggrin.:

 

I had my problems with this head, the face is very detailed, even the eyes, but it is simply too big. Putting the head on a normal torso, or one of the DA ForgeWorld torsos, it looked like ahmm... a Chibi-marine.:wacko.:

 

Mk3 torso works, it is bulky enough. The legs are from spellcrow.

I put an unpainted picture of him somewhere in this thread.

 

I never gave much a thought about how chain swords should look from the biting side. I will try that out.:smile.:

 

Surely I will also put dirt on the robes to indicate the he was on a battlefield for a while and had no time for shaving.

Well, I feel ashamed that I've missed this thread by not being on the B&C for a while :sad.:. If I were to have been here, I would have said "excellent work, my friend". There are a lot of pages to go through but it should be fun seeing all your backlog of work.

 

Oh, and excellent work, my friend :happy.:!

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