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The Agressors are looking great, really like how you black looks!

 

Thanks !

 

And he's back! Your blog page has been bookmarked.

 

I am hehehe, thank you :)

 

The red looks gorgeous. The Aggressors are off to a good start.

 

I love them, i just need to find something interesting to do with the missiles on the backpack

  • 2 weeks later...

They are looking amazing, your red is so rich! However the squad size is bugging me, since they come in boxes of three how is it that you've made an squad of 4?

Magic hehe, in truth i had a bad cast on the sergeant and gw sent me a full new box, so now i have two left on sprue if i want to do another squad with flamer :)

 

 

You've outdone yourself this time - incredible work.

Thanks mate, funny you think this way i thought there were a bit rushed :p

 

I may deviate a bit with the new soul wars box for aos with nighthaunt but i still need to finish 5 reavers and do the astraeus :)

 

Anyway the article on painting gold nmm is available on the blog for those interested

 

Cheers

Anamnesis

  • 3 months later...

So after some time and quite a few nighthaunt, time to go back to the most intimidating mini ever, Mr Astraeus

I'm actually terrified to be honest.

om1OVRt.jpg

I haven't forgotten you btw, b&c is now blocked at work so no lunchtime update anymore which is a pain.

 

I've posted quite a few tutorials on the blog in sig also if you're interested.

If you have tutorials queries on the astraeus now it's the time to ask hehe

 

For Sanguinius!

Anamnesis

How do you get the paint so smooth on the model? I'm having difficulty getting the colors to look so smooth and soft on my miniatures. Even when I water the paint down and paint 3-5 layers of it, it still comes out looking a bit chalky. 

 

Something I've learned to do recently is to use one of the washes over the model, then use a 50/50 wash and gloss and that gives metal a softer look but man the armor on your marines is top notch and I really want to learn how to paint like that.

 

Any advice on your method would be appreciated. 

 

Great work!

Can't wait to see this monster finished by you.

 

Thanks, I'm expecting to take quite some time hehe 

 

How do you get the paint so smooth on the model? I'm having difficulty getting the colors to look so smooth and soft on my miniatures. Even when I water the paint down and paint 3-5 layers of it, it still comes out looking a bit chalky. 

 

Something I've learned to do recently is to use one of the washes over the model, then use a 50/50 wash and gloss and that gives metal a softer look but man the armor on your marines is top notch and I really want to learn how to paint like that.

 

Any advice on your method would be appreciated. 

 

Great work!

 

The basecoat are done using an airbrush, but otherwise, I would say that dilution is key. You have to be thin enough to apply it smoothly but not too thin as you need 5 or 6 layer to cover it. Really hard with metallic as they pick all the edge with light.

 

I don't wash the all model, I just give it a nice coat of satin varnish as to not kill the shine of the metallic paint.

 

There is a tutorial on the red on my blog, here is the link 

 

In the meantime, the red on the main body has been done!

 

NpN9RlX.jpg

 

Cheers

Anamnesis

Can I ask, for the armour, is it just flat colour and a single edge highlight? It looks the business.

There seem to be so many ways to paint power armour!

 

Yes it is ;) the zenithal spray does create a gradient and adding the semi transparent red on top, you're good  to go!

I randomly stumbled upon this thread from looking up images on Google and by the Emperor, I like your paint style!

This has given me some inspiration to resume work on my Blood Angels. 

If you ever get the chance, could you take some step-by-step pictures of how you do the battle damage?
I've tried the sponge trick a few times but can never pull it off.

I've had similar problems with paint peeling off with the tape when I use it to mask while airbrushing.  I've read that one possible cause of that is the primer not being allowed enough time to dry before painting over it and sticking the tape on.  Which leaves it less able to adhere to the model.

 

A few things that I have tried, or plan to try, to combat this are letting the primed model dry overnight before painting more, priming with a rattlecan rather than airbrush primer, sticking the tape to my hand or something a few times to get it to lose a bit of the stickiness, and spraying matte varnish and letting it dry before masking with tape.

 

I hope this helps, and your models look great!

A tip I was given was when using tape, once cut to length etc, stick it to your jeans and then adhere to the model. Jeans tend to be fairly lint free, so less chance of getting fluff etc wrecking the tape

 

The tape will still stick, but not with so much grip, thus reducing the risk of the tape lifting the paint.

 

Doesnt vallejo primer require 48 hours to properly cure?

 

I have found with resin models, that there is always some spot where the release agent still clings to the model. I recently found that before priming I give the resin model a spray of matte varnish, as an outer coating to which the primer can stick to better.

Edited by Dantay VI

I randomly stumbled upon this thread from looking up images on Google and by the Emperor, I like your paint style!

This has given me some inspiration to resume work on my Blood Angels. 

 

If you ever get the chance, could you take some step-by-step pictures of how you do the battle damage?

I've tried the sponge trick a few times but can never pull it off.

 

Thanks brother! I'll try to remember that when I do it next :) In the meantime, you can search for scratches on my blog, that might help you

 

I've had similar problems with paint peeling off with the tape when I use it to mask while airbrushing.  I've read that one possible cause of that is the primer not being allowed enough time to dry before painting over it and sticking the tape on.  Which leaves it less able to adhere to the model.

 

A few things that I have tried, or plan to try, to combat this are letting the primed model dry overnight before painting more, priming with a rattlecan rather than airbrush primer, sticking the tape to my hand or something a few times to get it to lose a bit of the stickiness, and spraying matte varnish and letting it dry before masking with tape.

 

I hope this helps, and your models look great!

 

I let it cure for 24hours just to be sure, but it may be some mould oil leftover, who knows... I'll stick the tape to my jeans as sugested by Dantay now ! Thank you!

 

A tip I was given was when using tape, once cut to length etc, stick it to your jeans and then adhere to the model. Jeans tend to be fairly lint free, so less chance of getting fluff etc wrecking the tape

 

The tape will still stick, but not with so much grip, thus reducing the risk of the tape lifting the paint.

 

Doesnt vallejo primer require 48 hours to properly cure?

 

I have found with resin models, that there is always some spot where the release agent still clings to the model. I recently found that before priming I give the resin model a spray of matte varnish, as an outer coating to which the primer can stick to better.

 

I'll remember that, I used to do that for painting wall ^-^

It was basecoated with citadel rattle can though, I think it's more the release agent yes, I'll try the varnish, seem like a good idea.

 

In the meantime, I've found that i'm missing a grav plate :down:

Some progress on this build, this is taking forever :sweat:

 

EMLsT2N.jpg

fPdkpNy.jpg

Not really convince with the gold, as the wife suggested, something more bronze would be better :biggrin.:

 

J2Qxva1.jpg 

And the base is done minus the pigments

 

Cheers!

Anamnesis

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