Lorenzen's Abyss: Heresy, Necro & a load of other stuff

[the damned artificer]

Don't be so modes mate, your DG are awesome! Looking forward to shopping some more photos of them in the future, especially that lovely storm eagle of yours :D

[Lorenzen]

you'll have to wait for the steagle to be finished first! (its getting there slowly but the 1k stuff comes 1st) im hoping to get some decetn shots of the army/units done before long, hopefully once ive got a few buildings finished for the cityscape board.. if i can get at least a 2'x2' done with terrain soon you'll start getting sick of death guard and photoshop ;)

 

http://fc07.deviantart.net/fs70/i/2013/114/5/e/squad2_by_typhion-d62vnut.jpg

 

quick progress shot for the 2nd tac squad.. very basic bits done so far.. but it all leads somewhere so you have to suffer the dull stages too! :p

[death given form]

Never anything dull with this army, my friend. Is there an ETA on the a tabard/cloak tutorial? Liking the brass details on the power plant vents, neat idea and nice touch. I'm curious, the eyes? Clear red?

[Razblood]

Kael looks fantastic

 

I look forward to hopefully seeing these in person at some point in the near future (time and funds permitting) when I finally make an appearance at the club ;)

[Lorenzen]

the solihull club has unfortunatley passed away.. :(

 

ill try and get the tabard tut done at the weekend if i can & the red is just mephiston red atm, its all just the base layers atm.

[GodEmperorOfMankind]

Lorenzen, You ever play in Wolves?

[PassionFruit Power]

awesome

[Lorenzen]

nah, tho im not against a bit of a ride for a game.

[Blindhamster]

Need.....more....updates...

 

;)

[Lorenzen]

after.. gym.. ;)

[Blindhamster]

I approve. The army is looking great

[Razblood]

Ah crap :(

 

Sorry to hear that man.

[Lorenzen]

its okay, we're gonna rebuild at some point.. just need a good boost in local interest tbh.

 

anyhoo update time (back from the gym n all)

 

http://fc09.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2013/116/0/d/squad2a_by_typhion-d6343d8.jpg

 

more work's been done to the 2nd squad, ignore greyface.. his head is blutacked in place for separate spraying (realised too late i needed more bare heads in the squad) better pics in the next update.

 

food time!

[Lachdannan]

Very good DG. I like the dripping stains. How do you achieve that?

[Lorenzen]

vmc smoke for the darkest ones, fw's rust pigments for the rust ones and devlan mud for the subtle looking ones, if you look back to page 4 it has my method for weathering them on it :)

[GooseDaMoose]

Why do you need more barefaced members of the squad?

[Lorenzen]

its a personal preference thing.. i like painting skin,

 

other than that, im trying to make every face unique.. so regardless of him having the same rebreather as varlen he will look different through scars, skintone and hair. (current standing is 20 unique heads.. 21 once hes sorted)

[MagicMan]

These guys keep going from strength to strength, impressed with the pace you're setting.

 

They're looking great too. :)

[Kronus Stormbringer]

Seriously good looking weathering going on there

[NightHunters]

Yeah looking great mate, and to be fair if I could paint faces to the same level I too would look for any excuse to maximise their use!

[the damned artificer]

you'll have to wait for the steagle to be finished first! (its getting there slowly but the 1k stuff comes 1st) im hoping to get some decetn shots of the army/units done before long, hopefully once ive got a few buildings finished for the cityscape board.. if i can get at least a 2'x2' done with terrain soon you'll start getting sick of death guard and photoshop

Dg maybe, Photoshop I doubt it ;) But I am looking forward to editing more of your pics mate :P 

 

Awesome updates on the squads btw :D and 21 unique faces, I think that calls for a lineup as that sounds awesome :D

[Lorenzen]

ill do a line up when theyre all painted i think.. easier to define them & their personalities that way :p

[Lorenzen]

Lorenzen's badly worded tabard tutorial.

 

Okay first things first.. the tools i use are as follows..

 

a number 2 flat chisel colour shaper (firm) a number 0 taper point (extra firm) and a number 0 flat chisel (extra firm)

a sharp craft knife (new blade is preferable) and a slightly bent old airbrush needle (.05) for prodding stuff with.. essentially a really long pin.

 

Stage 1.

 

http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/6/e/untitled_by_typhion-d6395oa.jpg

 

bodge some sculpey in between your intended marines legs, it should roughly lie flat with the crotch piece and should extend to the base somewhat smoothly.. this is what you will be pressing against when you sculpt.

 

Stage 2.

 

http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/b/8/untitled_by_typhion-d6396ie.jpg

 

mix up some putty and roll it flat (rolling it out on forge world bags helps it not end up stuck to your desk and unable to remove it neatly) personally i like to use a mix of about 70% greenstuff 30% sculpey for tabards this retards the drying time of the greenstuff quite drastically and if heated slighty after the greenstuff has cured, will dry a little harder (becoming easier to sand, carve etc) of course you can use miliput instead of sculpey, then it will dry rock solid.. this is usefull for cloaks which need to be more robust.

 

this is cut roughly to size and applied to the model.

 

Stage 3.

 

if necessary cut the putty down to size at the top, (my guideline was the nodules to either side of the assault armours main plate.) and flatten the putty down to the model more.

 

http://fc00.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2013/117/d/2/untitled_by_typhion-d63979z.jpg

 

 this is where the proper sculpting starts.. cut out a small triangle at the very top of the putty using your knife (this can also be a semi circle if you want a less defined hang) under this you want to push another triangle into the putty with the flat chisel (0) clay shaper.. you're aiming to make the lower edge deeper than the top edge and for a small ridge in the middle of the triangle.

 

Stage 4.

 

http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/f/a/untitled_by_typhion-d6397zm.jpg

 

create another triangle under the 1st getting somewhat wider this time.

 

Stage 5.

 

http://fc00.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/a/2/untitled_by_typhion-d6398c0.jpg

 

create yet another triangle (all be it a wonky one) these will eventually create the main folds of the tabard.

 

Stage 6. (the most important one)

 

http://fc01.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/a/8/untitled_by_typhion-d6398uj.jpg

 

define the middle section of this fold, add in the "ridge" and start to define the curves more, i also added a long ridge along the thinner side of the tabard to define the edge more.

 

http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/9/5/untitled_by_typhion-d6399au.jpg

 

once the middle section is more defined we start to blend in the other ridges.. aiming for the same effect.. once again, on the other side of the tabbard i added an extra crease, to define the overall shape.

 

http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2013/117/8/4/untitled_by_typhion-d6399pd.jpg

 

(to add to the flow of the curves, i tend to work towards the base in smooth movements, even if the crease loses its definition towards the bottom, you should know where it would go.. would it interfere with other folds?)

 

Stage 7.

 

http://fc00.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/d/1/untitled_by_typhion-d639afl.jpg

 

cut the tabard along the bottom, this will create your lower edge and the sharper the blade the less pressure is needed.. thus less chance of it dragging at your hard work. its also a good idea at this point to neaten up any existing work.. the top folds will most likely look less than great at this point as the putty has moved all over the place and been prodded a lot!

 

its at this point where i start to create the curve in the non billowy side of the tabard.. this is done by pushing out the ridge we created earler at the bottom and flattening it down against the model.

 

http://fc03.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/5/8/untitled_by_typhion-d639aq0.jpg

 

after this is done, we cut the corner into the tabard so it looks less squidgy and remove the recently pressed putty from the models leg.. (note the prod marks where my knife wasnt quite sharp enough to make it clean!)

 

http://fc00.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/b/1/untitled_by_typhion-d639b3x.jpg

 

now this can be curved quite easily with a bit of prodding.. but can also leave unsightly marks in the tabard..

the best way to avoid this is to roll a sausage of sculpey and use that to press against (same as the rest of the tabard) then remove it once your curve looks nice!

 

Stage 8.

 

http://th05.deviantart.net/fs70/PRE/f/2013/117/c/e/untitled_by_typhion-d639bkf.jpg

 

using the tapered clay shaper we add some more definition to the overall shape of the tabard, the curve of the shaper works nicely for making natural curves in the material and the point on it allows us to determine how thick they are.. follow the curves created by the folds making them wider at the bottom and less defined.

 

once again at this point, start to neaten up the folds near the top, and look at the overall tabard.. does it look smooth? does anything look unnatural.. if it does try and correct it by gently smoothing it over with a clay shaper.. due to the mix of either miliput or sculpey in the putty its workable much longer and also less sticky so easier to blend and smooth.

 

http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/117/1/f/untitled_by_typhion-d639d07.jpg

 

once you are happy with it, or feel you can't do any more to improve it, leave it alone! once its cured you can cut a rough edge to look a little smoother, or sand out a bump thats annoying you.. if you still think you can do better, redo it.. how do you think i ended up with a redone version of my hq in the first place?

 

The End..   Until you start asking questions.

 

hopefully that all made sense.. as i say, if you need anything explained further i can do that, but im crap at writing stuff out so i've probably missed something hugely important.

 

oh and as a side note.. sculpey/greenstuff can dry a little rubbery as the sculpey requires heat to cure.. in the case of kaels tabard, i left him to cure over night, then blasted him with a hairdryer for a few minutes, then left him alone for a bit. i do find it to be a little nicer to work with than miliput/greenstuff for tabards, dunno why.. personal preference.

 

 

 

 

 

[Kizzdougs]

Great tutorial Lorenzen! I'll have to give it a go sometime, if I can find the confidence... 

The latest squad is coming along really nicely and I'm looking forward to seeing the proposed city scape board (with all of the promised photoshop pics of course) :)

[the damned artificer]

Awesome tutorial mate, I'm definitely stealing that Sculpey "scaffold" trick, that's just amazingly simple and effective :D