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SW1's Scenery Project - Buildings on the way!


SW1

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Not settled on the way I'm going to do the walls and connect the tiles.

 

However I've continued with the build and now have a pretty sturdy tile to work from. Laminating the sheets at 90deg to each other gives some rigidity to the foam board it doesn't normally have. Currently I have 3 layers which takes the top of the recessed sheet level with the top surface (which is just around the edge as I'll be doing some shallow details on other parts of the tile).

 

This can be seen here (it looks wonky but it's just an optical illusion not helped having it sat on a see through glass table):

 

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbe3c4eea.jpg

 

And this is it with the mesh in place:

 

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps3280c9bc.jpg

 

The recessed section hasn't been fixed in place yet as it'll be easier to paint it separately. It'll also give me a chance to try out a few other ideas with designs.

 

I've also changed my go to knife away from a scalpel to a stanley blade for work with foam board and probably will make it my go to knife for cutting up plasticard as well. It stays sharper for longer and you can apply a meduim level of pressure without having to worry about the blade snapping. It's also just as acurate a cutting tool when it cones to a straight line (infact I seem to be able to cut more squarely with the Stanley).

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Disaster alert. The blasted board has a camber to it!!!

 

I used thin card (barely thicker than paper) to fix the bottom boards together to fudge it to become 2x2. It's only bowed on one direction so the other sides is straight as a die. I'd foolishly assumed as I'd applied similar amounts of glue to each side of the bottom board it would contract evenly. Not thinking it through correctly as I'd have realised different materials on each side would produce different amounts of contraction. If I'd have used masking tape to hold it in place and then just glued the next layer of foam board on top it wouldn't have been an issue. I'm a right muppet!!!

 

Options to fix? Currently getting a blank on the idea front which doesn't help matters. Any ideas welcome!?!?!?

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Cheers for the input Tommy.

 

Brute force by itself isn't going to work as it will just damage the foamboard.

 

But scoring on the contracted side along the joint where the issue was caused should be a decent start. Then I can look at gluing some form of batten maybe of wood inside the recess and clamp it flat while it glues. I can just chop away some if the side of the detailed insert which won't affect the detail as there's a good inch or more to play with around the important bits.

 

Going to have to wait till Tuesday/Wednesday for time to have a play around with fixing it.

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Here's the curve I'm having issues with:

 

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfd7b6ab1.jpg

 

In comparison to the other side which is spot on:

 

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0d14cbb1.jpg

 

I sliced along the length of the curve. It ended up being that much of a mess with no real improvement that I just removed the thin cardboard from the back of the tile loosing a little of the bottom of the lowest board. I also chopped out the centre of the tile. Currently gluing strips of 1.5mm thick plasticard on the inner edge of the new hole in the centre. Hoping they will help take the curve out of the tile. :D

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Well I think it's had enough time for the glue to dry. Ended up having trouble finding things to hold the tile flat last night so I ended up raiding the kitchen for random tins. It seemed tins of fruit had the highest density out of the choice I had to hand. In recognition of their vallient work I'm likely to raid the recycling for a few tins and make some cargo silos out of some tins. ;)

 

I may have to glue some plasticard strips along the outer edges as well. Just depends how good a job the inner strips are doing.

 

The construction of tile 2 will be different to the first. I can avoid the bowing easily if I just think about the materials used rather than being in a big rush to get it done.

 

Will get some pics up later on. Just have to get some gingerbread made first (nom nom nom). :D

 

Hmmm ... There's a thought ... Edible scenery ... My lascannon's just taken that wall out let me bite a hole in it.

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Just have to get some gingerbread made first (nom nom nom). biggrin.png

Hmmm ... There's a thought ... Edible scenery ... My lascannon's just taken that wall out let me bite a hole in it.

Was just going to suggest the same thing. You could also make gingerbread objectives. However controls them at the end of the game gets to eat them msn-wink.gif
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Hmmm ... Made a mountain of gingerbread goodies yesterday and then had to pipe icing in all of them as the wife was making a mess with the first lot. Think I got played as looking back on what she's made before I think she was just messing around to get me to do it.

 

So hobbywise yesterday was a bit of a none starter. The plasticard strips helped a little bit with the curve issue but didn't completely fix it. However a very small weight on the apex of the curve holds it flat so I think rather than worrying about it I'll just make some scatter scenery with a bit of ballast inside it or make the lift on this tile and do the recessed detail on another one.

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Some small benefits to all the baking ... Leftovers!!!

 

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps7ceec81b.jpg

 

The wife also surprised me by saying I should try out some gingerbread scenery. Just need to finds some volunteers to game over and help consume at some point next year when I can book a weekend off work.

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Thanks to me thinking about gingerbread construction I've worked out some of the issues I was having with wall building. I was putting off building walls but now I reckon I can get atleast some prototypes done fairly quickly (actual model walls rather than of the edible type).

 

If I put more details on the walls I won't need to detail the floor as much as I was going to. Then with the floors of the big rooms I can go to town on them with loads of detail as befits a room in comparison to say a corridor.

 

Just sketching out the ideas so I can make some rough templates. just one question though. Is 4" high enough for walls?

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Here's the WIP of the wall section:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps9ee02842.jpg

 

And here's a size comp of the other bit I've been working on:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps1c7a288d.jpg

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Not sure if the wall is too high. The spacing between the jutting out bits will be of a greater distance apart and they will be thicker. I'm also thinking of making the spacing a standard distance and detailing a plain regular sheet for most of the walls maybe with some recessed sections where pipes can be located rather than having lots jutting out of the wall. Though a big pipe or two in the upper half (so well above eye level for normal models) may be an idea. Half tempted to try making a multipart resin kit for the walls.
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It's just at the rough out stage so dimensions aren't set in stone yet. I think I may drop it to 3" and see who it looks like and possibly try 6" as well with some gantries at 3" height. If I extend to 6" then the top half will come back on itself (if that makes sense).

 

Need to pillage the bits boxes for some tank consoles and other interesting bits.

 

Happy with the shape just need to get the dimensions finalised.

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I'm also considering different wall types for different areas of the ship. The docking bay/embarkation decks/brig need good thick walls. However places like any cabins or other such places will have thinner walls. I'm considering house rules that'll allow the thinner walls to be smashed through (so they'll be removable) with a strength test or grenade but the big void hardened superstructure will be impervious to most if not all weapons. I'm also considering ducting and the game play options. Something like a marine won't be scampering through them but gribbly nids or some unlucky runt may find themselves being able to get into the walls. However a flamer or heavy flamer pushed into the entrance should have a decent cooking option. Funnily enough the new 32mm bases for marines would stop them from entering these hidden places.

 

Getting ahead of myself now. Need to finalise the building before I get any overly complicated ideas stuck in the old brain. :D

 

This has finally got my brain back into hobby mode!!!

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I've ended up with quite a few additional ideas and need to see if they will work. So I think it's time to do some models of the ideas in stock card maybe in a smaller scale rather than waste loads of materials only to change my mind again.

 

In work loads doing daft shifts for the next couple of days so I might use that time to work out scales down plans.

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I've found I can do rough scratches (I meant sketches but autocorrect probably got it more accurate) on paper ok but trying to actually get designs down on paper is a tad more difficult.

 

I might have to accidentally leave some stock card, cutting mat and other bits in my bag. ;)

 

Just going back through the previous pages and realised the bases I did we're very much different in style to the boards I'm currently working on. I really wanted to get them to look much more similar. So maybe I need to limit the deep recessed areas and work more on the layers of texture which really got me into doing the bases in the first place. The walls will probably be dropped to around 3" high to allow me to do double height balconies without it getting too high for gaming purposes, 6" is doable but 8" will probably end up getting knocked more.

 

I really like the idea of an embarcation deck which is overlooked by balconies where troops can fire down from in hard cover with the only acces to the defenders being either a long way round or through the teeth of the storm busting a door and charging up stairs which are located the other side of the thick walls. This can then be lifted off and used on a normal battlefield as a city wall or defence line as well. The only difference being the surface the battlefield is being played on.

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There was something not sitting quite right with the first wall section and I think it's the bracing being the wrong shape.

 

I've tried a few different shapes in 1/5 size and think I've come up with something that'll suit my taste.

 

Unfortunately during the week I can't get away with turning my work desk into a hobby space. So will have to try squeezing in trial production after work instead.

 

Now I've worked out how I'm having it all looking I'm going to see how much I can make of the wall sections in a 1/5 size before I finish work at 9. ;)

 

Lol ... SW1 can't take you call right now as he's a bit busy playing with bits of card. :D

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