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  • 3 weeks later...

I have to confess, I've been a bit lazy in the past few weeks.

These two I finished today, after lying around on my desk for a month. Bought on Ebay and brought back to inspection standard. Well, almost.

The first is a pretty old model, the metal on the food said something of '89 or '88. It was a bit hard to read.

When I first saw him I though "Holy Throne, this guy is ugly"

gallery_86236_11073_22827.jpggallery_86236_11073_19664.jpg

Now that he painted... he is still ugly. :laugh.:

He is missing his backpack but I guess he will not need it, unless I find somebody who is willing to play against my whole army and I need to call in the reserves. :tongue.:

Second is Sergeant Arij.

gallery_86236_11073_53315.jpg

The pile of shame shrinks, at least the DA part of it.

Maybe I'll finish them before the Lion returns.

Now that is old school!!! I still remember a lot of the metal figures from when I started in the early 90s, but I honestly can't say I remember that one. Wicked score!

 

And stunning work as always Lostrael, I never get tired of staring at your greens.

Thanks all.

 

These are amazing! Please, do tell how you have painted the power weapons on the dual sword wielding hero?! It is amazing!

I did some wet blending with black, dark blue and ice blue and washed with a bit secret weapon blue. At some point I gave up to paint the flat of the blade und just painted it black, put some lightning on it and washed.  I still need some practice in painting lightning... 

 

 

Army Pic anytime soon Lostrael?

 

:biggrin.:

stobz

Dust of my army and take a picture? Sounds like something for new year's resolution. :sweat:

Love it all. Utterly superb HH DA and remarkably close to the paint scheme I had planned for my HH DA, though I've started with Mk II armour.

Would love to see a little recipe/tutorial on how you did the black. I've never done any wet blending, but if this is the result you can get it might be time to start trying!

I would not call it wet-blending.

It is a combination of dry-brushing wet colors and washes. The colors are quite thin, so it takes a while.

I used 3 colors, black, light green blue and algae wash.

Black as base color.

Mixed back with the light green blue as dry brush colors.

Light green blue as highlight.

I started with dry brushing a dark mix, and got lighter with every step.

Make sure you do not have too much color on your bush.

Correct errors by dry brushing black.

dry brushed:

gallery_86236_11651_84519.jpg

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Highlight the edges with a thin brush and a steady hand.

highlighted:

gallery_86236_11651_181108.jpg

Dry brush with algae wash. This wash is quite glossy, like proper polished armor should be.

The wash is a trick to smooth out small brush strokes, it makes all darker and gives a green hue.

If it runs in the seams, it will be to shiny, so I correct that with a bit black GW wash.

washed:

gallery_86236_11651_159421.jpg

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If you have miniatures with an uneven surface, correcting the dry brushed areas takes some time. :dry.:

What do you mean by a wet dry brush? It looks amazing, and i would love to try it out too.

Any chance for a green tutorial too? :)

 

What do you mean by a wet dry brush? It looks amazing, and i would love to try it out too.

 

Any chance for a green tutorial too? :smile.:

 

 

Wet dry brush... not a good choice of words, I have to admit.:unsure.:

I use an old gw small dry brush and put thin paint on it, then remove most of the paint on paper cloth, but leave more color on the brush then when doing proper dry brushing. 

If the paint is to thick, I water it down a bit.

Maybe I should call it layer painting with a dry brush or a slightly chaotic way of applying layers of paint.:ph34r.:

I'm to lazy for normal layer painting. 

The thin paint leave less structure than normal dry brushing. So if you put a thinned down color or wash of over it, it sticks better.

 

 

As for the green... if I would start from scratch, I would paint my army in a different green. To complicated. 

I will see if I find a volunteer to explain by example...

"Wet" dry brushing gets referred to as "overbrushing" most of the time I've seen it used in miniatures painting, assuming I understand exactly how you are referencing it.

 

Here is an interesting video on the technique:

 

Hopefully that's what you are referring to.

Edited by Bryan Blaire

The text in the video fits well to what I'm doing, till it comes to the point when he starts to paint. 

I can be done in a more subtle way. :happy.:

 

I created a video when I painted the guy shown in the pictures. The video is pretty bad and boring, because I used my phone camera hanging from the desktop lamp and I'm slow. So I decided just to post some pictures. 

Anyway that is the video:

https://youtu.be/PD-Gm2gRGcs

Green for the penitent warrior


or


A far to complicated way to paint your armor :happy.:


This is my volunteer. Left over from last years ETL. Brother Dario.

gallery_86236_11073_12394.jpg



Used colors:

Vallejo Game extra opaque Heavy Green (as base color)

Vallejo Game color Goblin Green (for highlighting)

Vallejo Game Ink Green (to cover everything)

Citadel Layer Flash Gitz Yellow (for highlighting)

Army Painter Quickshade Dark Tone (for recesses)

gallery_86236_11073_10614.jpg



apply first layer base color - keep it thin and smooth

gallery_86236_11073_25167.jpg


of cause it will not cover


apply second layer base color - keep it thin and smooth (that is somewhat important)

gallery_86236_11073_49168.jpg


Fetch a tea, let it dry.


brushing green to dark green gradient... a tricky part

First brushing looks always a bit ruff... let it dry than do a second layer and so on.

Keep the paints thin. This is not dry brushing.

Try not to scrape of the color from the edges.

When painting the gradient I start with green, brush a bit and then dip it into dark green and work from the darker parts up to the lighter. So in fact I have 2 colors on the brush to make the transition.


gallery_86236_11073_111338.jpg

I still have not found a good replacement for the GW small brushes :mellow.:


gallery_86236_11073_86881.jpg


nice and smooth :wink:


gallery_86236_11073_2134.jpg



brushing a mix of yellow and green as high light

gallery_86236_11073_139625.jpg


highlight the edges with yellow, and fix some little brushing accidents

gallery_86236_11073_40748.jpg


add a green ink layer over everything

make sure it does not pool

let it dry

add more ink to the parts that need to be darker.

I needed up to 4 layer on some parts, like the legs.

Keep the cat away... she loves to brush with her tail over freshly inked models.

gallery_86236_11073_279531.jpg


black wash recesses and only the recesses, to remove the reflection

gallery_86236_11073_488360.jpg


You may understand why I cannot recommend this way of painting green, to much work for simple green armor. :happy.:


... so now I need to paint the rest


 

Simply amazing! Thanks for sharing.

 

Do you have a thread somewhere about those shiny harlequins?

No, I only post at B&C.  

 

 

Too bad, they look too good not to share. You mentioned doing your green differently if you should start all over again, what did you have in mind?

Thanks all. 

 

 

Too bad, they look too good not to share. You mentioned doing your green differently if you should start all over again, what did you have in mind?

 

I thought nobody likes clowns. :wink:

 

The base color is some army green, I would use a darker green as base color. 

and not this ink... 

It can be messy. 

It is difficult to correct mistakes once you inked.

If you put water in it, the ink may dry, leaving a light green grey in the recesses. :sick:

If it pools and drys, it looks bad. 

 

Take a darker green, don't do the ink part, perhaps brush over with some secret weapon wash instead, like I do when painting black.

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