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I dunked my models into simple green and am spending the day at my FLGS for their store birthday (not a GW so no models).

 

Basically I hit a point where I wasn't really liking how the models were coming out.

 

To explain, here's a recent photo of a model I painted last year:

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Anyone who remembers this guy knows that the yellow, while rather rich, was fairly flat with a lot of focus on the weatheting and decals. Since I now have a smartphone I tried getting a new picture of him but I was having trouble with the lighting with my apartment so I stood him on my bed near the window and let the sun do the work.

 

And I honestly love that look of the model has strong saturated color with the deep shadows that desaturate down to into darker tones. To me it feels kind of like a Baroque painting honestly I want to emulate the same. It'd look good on a character model alone, and even on a unit lined up on a movement tray would look pretty darn good too (in my opinion).

 

So yeah, I'm starting over on what I was working on because I honestly want to make this my own intentional thing instead of an accident of lighting.

Totally nailed it in one, Chaeron, them's the Gothic Void helmets. Absolutely incredible (and the heavy armour arms work pretty well, too), especially given how worried I was that they wouldn't fit properly in the tiny gorget sockets on the genestealer cult armour. Aaaanyway, I have 30 of them built right now, aiming for the last 20 once I figure out how I'm gonna run them. Then they'll be part of the next ETL vow (as traitor grendier for 30K).

Heretic marauders as 'Heretek' sounds great for 40K but then I'm limited to just 3 squads supporting my Cthonic 297th (Escher militia cultists). Not bad, just I wish I could use them all as something but more chaos means more autoguns and less shotguns. Hmmph.

That is a very rich oil-esque painting, Fulkes, and the tight sharp use of decals really gets the focal point. across along with that blue on the canister. I know what you mean that sometimes it is about trying to replicate 'mistakes' or 'effects' caused by other mediums. I wish I could help but the only things I'd be able to say would be kinda trifling: Black and white zenithal priming (Or better yet, purple and white) then your rich air'ink to get the yellow, followed by a soft oil wash. Might be able to replicate it. hard to say and depends how 'clean' you want to go.

Well, I guess I should have a 'TITH', so today in the hobby I worked on my void-clade regiment, painted some deathwatch, worked on a white scar, aaaaaaaand mostly worked up a conversion for a forgefiend/maulerfiend in 30K style. Still got some more bits to glue on but yeah.

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Other side

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What's funny about the model is that's all GW acrylics. But "oil painting" is a good description for the feel I'm chasing.

 

I have some ideas nicked from OSL I'm considering but I have to work some stuff out involving NMM and destaturated colors.

 

I'm thinking that movement trays will be my friend when it comes to making the units look like a cohesive unit with a light source coming from the same direction.

Edited by Fulkes

Haven't done anything today yet, but Yesterday in the Hobby, I bought a box of the new Havocs for my World Eaters, and entered Everchosen.

 

My Maulerfiend won third in the Open category, and that was only because I entered late. Apparently I would have probably gotten second, maybe first, if I entered it when I entered my other Everchosen entry. Ah well

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So I've been playing with yellow and shading it, and while I'm having some trouble nailing that, however Model Color Ochre Brown makes for a pretty good yellow:

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I think the trick might be to glaze yellow onto the hotspots to brighten it further and make the shadows seem darker by comparison.

 

I'm considering Scale 75's Fantasy and Games paint set for the high pigmentation which could make glazing easier since airbrushing isn't feasible in my apartment (super thin walls) as well as the matte finish since controlling gloss is important for the effect.

 

I'm still working on things and dipping into researching that Dutch baroque painting style I'm trying to emulate.

Some examples:

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Some things I've picked up recently in terms of how to apply it to models: basically the model is lit much like you're doing OSL, raised surface highlights should overlap into the shadows near the edges of the light, and the shadows should desaturate down into near black (they accomplished this with an amber varnish which knocks the color down, an effect I'm trying to figure out how emulate).

 

This is definitely a very stylized I'm dipping into, but I feel like it fits the feel of an army fighting in a hive city lit only by candles and lamps.

 

EDIT: thanks to the #warmongers tag on Twitter I got some information I need to try and nail the end effect, as well as learned of a painter who nailed then look for use in Mordheim by the name of Klotti: https://www.instagram.com/p/BzQher6H1Hz/?hl=en

 

Seeing the look on the table just sells it to me even further. I admit that a brightly painted army still stands out nicely but this style has been something I've been rolling around in my head and now that I've stepped away from painting like GW I've latched onto something more experimental.

Edited by Fulkes

TITH (and the last few days) I made these Primaris Counts-as Wulfen.

 

7CxKs7M.jpg

 

The weapons are perfectly sized for them. Reiver Poses work well with the Claws, while the stances of Intercessors work well for the Hammers and Shields.

(More pictures here: http://imgur.com/gallery/O8TeM0r )

Now I only have to add a few more small details.

Learning to play around with muted colors has been a bit of an interesting mess.

 

Still trying to get the yellow down without popping into a bright yellow but talking to some folks on discord has taught me that there are people who paint minis with actual oil paints (and not just wash them).

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Still a lot of experimentation with colors as I try to make the colors look right before I jump into stressing over light sources and the like (which is my next big step).

 

Edit: Speaking of playing with color, a super thinned yellow glaze over the ochre has finally git the right note. I used an ochre and pallid Wych Flesh mix as a highlight over that. With the use of a glaze I can be more aggressive with my undershading as well which can help me keep the yellow more muted in the shadows.

 

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Edited by Fulkes

TITHI finished a quick mock-up of a proof of concept for my World Eaters Terminators using the new kit, and the FW upgrades.

WcWuKGm.jpg

 

Not too difficult to get the FW torsos onto the GW kit, just takes a bit of cutting and filing. Also, milliput to fill in the void of the abdominal/stomach area since that ends up getting removed with the original plastic torsos.

TITHI Gave in and built and painted some of the necrons from the forge bane box, I'm going with a basic boltgun metal base but trying out the new contrast paints (flesh tearers red) for the plate areas to get a metallic sheen to the colour, It's looking good so far on the wraiths and infantry but I'm not sure how it'll work on the bigger models though

 

Any one else tried it out yet, if so how does it look on a triarch stalker or monolith ?

Today, I just woke up. Yesterday, I redid my Dreadnought with a missile launcher, las and a fresh coat of paint, and I shot myself in the foot by promising to do up a Lamenters Tactical Marine if I don't finish my completion before the end of the week.

TITH no painting, but I've been staring at information about using oil paints on miniatures because that is a thing that exists that I knew nothing about until recently.

 

With how dry my painting environment is I have trouble doing anything with blends which has been a major bugbear of mine so finding out about another medium that has a long working time that could lend well to blending has my interest piqued.

 

The slow drying time means it doesn't really lend well to cranking out a mini in a day, but I feel like batch painting might be reasonable. Get a squad of 5 and do a mini a day with a base layer of your colors, then when you get to the end start over with your shadows, then do it again with highlights. Varnish and do your decals, varnish again and then weather and after a couple days seal everything with a dull coat. Basically it means that it'd take longer to do a squad of guys, but that sort of rotation method would be good for producing a bunch of nice looking stuff.

 

Yes, I have been spending a lot of time in the last day or so thinking about this which means I'm likely to give this rabbit hole a try, but I'm not making any promises on doing something silly.

Noooot gonna say so much on the general principle of stand alone oil painting, Fulkes, but I can say that I tend to use water-soluable oils as additives for blending acrylic paints (typically tone ups and downs) to prolong drying time and achieve better blending as well.  It sounds like it shouldn't work but it does for me, anyway, so I can absoutely imagine oil piannting base over a proper base coat (especially with preshading) would give fantastic results.  I may have to give it a try, too.

 

And it's all for exactly the same reason too, locally my climate is stuuuuuuupid dry, put on any sort of shade even with most drying retarder and you get tide marks level of 'dry'. 

Noooot gonna say so much on the general principle of stand alone oil painting, Fulkes, but I can say that I tend to use water-soluable oils as additives for blending acrylic paints (typically tone ups and downs) to prolong drying time and achieve better blending as well. It sounds like it shouldn't work but it does for me, anyway, so I can absoutely imagine oil piannting base over a proper base coat (especially with preshading) would give fantastic results. I may have to give it a try, too.

 

And it's all for exactly the same reason too, locally my climate is stuuuuuuupid dry, put on any sort of shade even with most drying retarder and you get tide marks level of 'dry'.

Water soluable oils can be thinned with Water which is a key component of acrylics so it seems doable.

 

I'll be picking up a small set of oils and supplies as an experiment and if I fail to latch onto it they have uses for weathering.

 

Reaching out on Twitter got me this example by @Cyblok_Rambles:

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So oils are feasible as a means of painting minis, though I'm likely to be a bit less grunge with mine. ;)

Edited by Fulkes

Aye my dude, the water component is what I latched on to, and honestly I can say it works pretty decent (Titanium white is pretty typical on what I do with skin tones. A bit of it and a bit of ink is what I did with Luna Horus's face YITH (which was mostly ink blending practice with some glazing work.)

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Hah, small set of oils, that's the spirit my dude. Aye, very cool example honestly, kinda tempted to try it out myself. Admittedly, mostly I use oils for grunge (Ochre and Burnt Sienna) so I'll be real interested in seeing what comes of a full on oil test. Hmmm... -ponders, looking at an extra primed test mini and a set of purple and red oils-

So a bit of a learning curve on the thinning oils thing. While using water was feasible, using actual thinner made for water soluable paints was better. Likewise white spirit is good to have on hand for brush cleaning.

 

Still learning the medium, but I think it's a pretty nice start. Plus Payne's Grey is a great basis for a steel NMM:

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Today in the hobby I picked up a paint brush. It's been two weeks since I broke my arm but I was happy to at least get a little painting done on an idea that's been on the back burner.

 

Base layers are done on my test greenstuff camo cloak.

 

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No real progress painting as I continue to work on my NMM, but I did get some inspiration from Jack Hunter's Imperial Fists (https://www.goonhammer.com/army-showcase-jacks-imperial-fists/) which have a couple of nice conversions mixed in.

 

And I love his idea of just making Dorn yellow instead of gold.

Today, well... yesterday, in the Hobby, I got my Nighthaunt half of Soul Wars and I've been assembling those.

 

In regards to 40k, I'm making good progress on my ETL vow, but man, the fatigue is real. I want to get all 5 vows done, but I'm not going to be able to contribute a massive amount in the month unless my 4th vow is small and takes me little time :lol:

TiTHI have almost finished my current vow for ETL. My Skorpius Dunerider's gunners are now complete and now all that remains is the servitor gunner before I'm onto decals and weathering for both vehicles. This ETL has certainly helped my organize my Adeptus Mechanicus better and pushed me to expand my army a little more than I had originally planned. I may well have to participate next year but as for what I would bring to the painting table is anyone's guess.

I finally finished my ETL entry after having several issues along the way. It was everything from my airbrush deciding to give out when I needed to prime to some paint bottles apparently being bad (4-5 coats to cover a very light grey primer). I may not have gotten the Gouf-inspired look I was going for, but it still looks good and I’m satisfied with it.

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