Death Guard CSM, Iron Warrior Legion, DIY Primaris LOPLOG

[TURBULENCE]

Thanks for the shout out. Trevor is me, by the way. So both bits are accurate. Really loving your death guard, may have to punch a few ideas back off you

[Closet Skeleton]

@Closet Skeleton: Give that man a star.

 

Reminds me to get a couple of razorback/predator top pates when in the attic, as otherwise I'll have nowhere to fit the havoc launchers on the rhinos (combi-bolters/combi-flamer/havoc launcher).

 

I'm personally taking a slightly different direction to solve this problem, will hopefully post them in my own progress log some time today.

[Marius Perdo]

@TURBULENCE: No worries, love your skeletal daemon prince. Obviously as I am inspired by it so much I started basing one of mine based on it

@Closet Skeleton: I'll park mine for now (no pun intended) as it was time to man up and face the inevitable wall of cultists and poxwalkers.

So I have started fiddling with the auto-gun cultists. I need a 40 man block as part of my core, mainly as with Inexorable Advance they can lay out a lot of annoying shots to 18"/no penalties with the Heavy, can sit on objectives, but mainly to die and turn into poxwalkers (as they cost the same per model or thereabouts).

Using FW Renegades, with DV cultist and Overkill genestealer cultist auto-gun arms (I have 40 DV gun cultists and two Overkill boxes). I'll fill in blank arms with spare plaguebearer arms, zombie arms, and poxwalker arms, for a diseased and emaciated (and blessed by Nurgle) look. I'll be spreading some of my spare poxwalker bits into the left over genestealer neophytes for poxwalker variety.



I am under no delusions that to do them in interesting poses, given I will need to be working with resin, plastic and greenstuff. is going to take a while. However I am only doing one max sized squad. I'll possibly do 10 at a time, and then 10 poxwalkers (their dark shadows), but I have the 10 DI and 6 1st Strike unique sculpts so I'll not be converting poxwalkers until cultist 17 through 20.

Still pottering with the Necromunda Underhive boards. The plywood is cut, the 2” grid is drawn on the test one, and tomorrow I'll start laying down the sprue spacers. I'll definitely be cutting the bulkhead ladders out, the sizes match perfectly then.

Even if it ends up a bit rough in places it is a rotting Underhive that is thousands of years old, so it'll probably still look right.

Edited January 1, 2018 by Marius Perdo

[Vairocanum]

Very cool looking cultists, the DV parts and the FW torsos work really well together! Looking forward to seeing more!

[TURBULENCE]

And I'm incredibly flattered that you were inspired by me, and I like the more insectile approach you took. I feel like they could have been brothers while mortal.

 

Also ditto on the work on the cultists. Very good combination of components.I also feel like they fit in with death guard better than the standard cultists, with all the gas mask flair the R&H torsos have

[Marius Perdo]

@Vairocanum: Ta mate. The DV robed champion legs do work best, followed by flagellants legs and then graveguard legs. Need them all for variety though.

@TURBULENCE: Ta mate. There used to be a chaos attribute in Realms of Chaos: Slaves to Darkness where a model split into two identical clones and they'd continue on separately from that point. 326-330 Duplication.

I tend to do that a lot with daemon princes (as in consult the tomes). So mine has 186-190 Bird's Feet, 291-305 Crossbreed 5/3 - Skeleton (Mutant parent - head, upper body, creature parent lower body, arms, legs), 486-495 Hunchback, 561-565 Long Legs, 621-630 Mechanoid 4-6 partial 1 part 2-Body, 726-730 Powerful Legs, 761-765 Razor Sharp Claws, 836-840 Skull Face, Gifts of Chaos - Chaos Armour, Gifts of Nurgle - Face of a Plaguebearer at the least, and choosing the tail (as lower body skeletal) and wings (fly) when ascending. Also given the attributes it is about 1.5 times the size of a Death Guard sorcerer.

Utterly irrelevant in this day and age but I always look askance at the daemon prince models GW release, nostalgically remembering how mad they actually used to end up looking.

I tested what a melee one might look like for my The Tainted battalion (to be mixed in with DV models).

Edited November 6, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Sagentus]

Dam that looks evil, great kitbash!

[Marius Perdo]

@Sagentus: Ta. The close combat guy does look quite good as a test.

Doing the spacers for the test Necromunda Underhive tile. Cutting the old bulkheads will work. I'll need to indent the bottom so the sit over the spacers. The spacers can be jazzed up with Grandt Line rivets and/or hex bolts (I have hundreds if not thousands).

I'll remove skulls from floor tiles to de-Gothic it a bit and make models stand better on the floor.

So tonight is getting the sprues cut to spacers and glued in, tomorrow will be bulkheads and then assembly.

I think it will work.

[Marius Perdo]

Whilst waiting for the extra FW R&H bodies I kept looking at variety for auto-guns. The genestealer cultists neophyte hybrid box seemed a likely source (looking at the sprues) so I ordered one. It also has enough of everything to shotgun up auto-gun robbed Overkill 3rd/4th generation models, and build 3 neophyte leaders, 3 special weapons, 3 heavy mining weapons etc with box bodies, as I have nicked their auto-gun arms (both arms) for the Gifted Nurgle cultists. By doing two squads with leader, 2 special weapons, 2 heavy mining weapons, and 5 shotguns it means I free up even more auto-guns without feeling like I am "wasting" any miniatures.

With two Overkill boxes and the multi-part box I'd have 40 (2 shotgun, 2 auto-gun squads, although at 10 men very, very brittle), and 24 Acolytes. So I ordered a box of acolytes as I like converting any starter box set by mashing it with equivalent multi-part boxes (and a bit shops sale garnered some very cheap hand flamers/icon for an iconward conversion etc.). So again I'll be able to take all the single box set bits and convert lots of Overkill 1st/2nd generation hybrids.
 

As side projects these amuse me, as in spending very little new money to take older stuff and just convert it. Turns out I have a PL100 Genestealer cult army.

Another example is finding a load of old tau, so much so I worked out I had:

Tau PL112

 

PR12 Stealth suit x6
PR7/14 Devilfish x2
PR10 Hammerhead
PR11/22/33 Battlesuits x10 (Bodyguards 12 per 3)
PR6 Commander
PR6/12 20 Pathfinders
PR3/6 10 Firewarriors
PR6/12 43 Kroot
PR2-10 22 Drones (PR 2 per 4)

Now some is in a parlous stripped state, but if I get bored it is certainly something to amuse myself with. I have something similar with eldar (about half Craftworld, half Harlequins from Death Masque).

Dunno, regardless of army I just seem o be enjoying kit-bashing and jazzing up cheaper models with equivalent multi-box parts. Not really sure what the point of my ramble is. Possibly whilst planning for tasks in one project you end up spawning parts and resources for unanticipated side projects. Or maybe it can be fun to just build and play with what is there "knocking about", or is dirt cheap on flea-bay that needs some love, as opposed to list-planning, just to see how it goes.

Although Necromunda models do look rather good so that'll definitely distract me as well.

However, I am fairly sure when the FW bits arrive I'll get back on with my Death Guard.
 

Edited November 6, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Brother Mayhem]

Great stuff here, like the cultists. Looking forward to seeing what you do with the Bloat Drone bits for a Helbrute!

[Urauloth]

Famtastic cultists so far. I started making some from the FW renegade and flagellant kits a few years back, but I shelved the project when I couldn't find weapon arms for them I was really happy with (Cadian lasguns weren't doing it). The Genestealer cult autoguns, however, look perfect. Might have to pick that project back up again having seen these. Also, great use of the grave guard legs, the craps of mail and ragged cloth really suit the Chaos aesthetic.

[Jofus]

I like what you are doing with the cultist.  I am thinking about doing something similar for allied Nurgle traitor guard if I ever get around to them.

[Marius Perdo]

@Brother Mayhem: Thanks mate. The hellbrute will be a while off though (see below).

 

@A Kvit Ghost: Thanks. However most of the ideas for bits are just from Googling (although some seem to have just been theories). 

@Jofus: Ta. It did occur to me that they could be used as cultists or Renegades and Heretics but I have trouble enough staying focused :)

So, the see below update.

I have built so many models now that I haven't even fielded some of them. Bloat-drones, various Elite role Characters, Plaguemarines with melee weapons spring to mind. I really need to try them out to keep enthused.

I obviously have more than I am ever going to need, as can be seen by my ideas and "sketches" throughout the thread.

I also don't want to start painting until I have nice blocks ready to do all at once, which requires a definite core army. Also due to the eyesight issue I haven't painted in years, and I am a wee bit apprehensive about how bad the limits will be now due to the damage.

Also given the way I play I really need the 40 odd cultists done (although I have DV ones to play with), and nigh on 100 poxwalkers (again built to play but not converted). This is daunting though, they are time consuming and they just aren't as exciting or easy to build as some aren't just plastic.

Which leads to the wrinkle. I rent, and was doing it long term with intent to buy eventually. But our landlady seems to have got herself in a financial pickle and needs to sell very soon. So I am going to have to move in February 2018. Obviously moving is an arse, and stressful, so I need to think about packing things already as I am going to have to move. Probably have to for work anyway but that has just gone weird as a totally different opportunity, that is much more lucrative, came up this week that would be starting ASAP (if successful). Like Gandalf I will find myself very short of time.

So unfortunately I need to look at getting stuff ready to move, sell idiot mint in box stuff in the attic as if I haven't used it yet clearly it isn't that useful (as when I move I have no guarantees I'll have a lovely, big and empty attic to fill i.e. storage), and generally do all sorts of domestic, sensible, and grown up stuff.

I do find building (well, up until the cultists) very relaxing, so I will need to do something in the interim until settled, even if just for fun.

This means I might fiddle with some Deathwatch (I was looking at them whan stealing Overkill genestealer cultist auto-guns) as I love marines, I have all the bits, each will be very characterful to do given all the SM stuff I have (chapter specif shoulder pads and bits), and will be a mini-project as individual models.

I'll probably keep playing with my un-painted Death Guard that I have built in their carry cases, but the un-built stuff will need to be packed away.

But this is a WIP thread so it might be the boys in black for a bit. I'll finally get to use ancient Dark Angels and Blood Angels FW resin terminator shoulderpads, or actualise ideas I have had for years for armies in a single model (Minotaurs, Knights of the Raven, Marauders, Sons of Medusa etc). They'll certainly create less sprawl and all fit in a single small box.

Or it is probably more sensible to jack it in for a bit until settled, which would be spring next year.

First world problems eh?

[Sagentus]

I know the pain with the eye sight, but i'm sure with the level of detail you get with the modeling you will be able to emulate when painting :) 

 

Sorry to hear about your sittuation with having to move so suddonly, nothing more stressfull than moving (I should know i used to do removals haha). If you are looking to lighten the load models wise, I might be able to help, ping me an IM letting me know what your willing to let go of with prices. 

 

Your latest venture with death watch sounds interesting and i look forward to seeing some models come together :) 

[Marius Perdo]

@Sagentus:  Ta for the vote of confidence but as you know we are at the drizzly, cold, wet, damp and annoying part of UK weather that sucks for spray undercoating. I live a few hundred yards from the sea so most of the time spraying goes everywhere except on the minis

The Deathwatch is just to keep my hand in, as in a sense each model is like a project in their own right. Just researching the codex for the shared style against chapter styles, and looking through all the official successor chapters who have icons that are on moulded shoulderpads (whether GW or FW). I am really enjoying that, especially with the collectors edition ones. I am quite taken with the Angels Redeemed. If I was being a cheesemonger I could use them to be a codex chapter with a given legion trait, or Dark Angels successor, or Blood Angels successor, from colour and icons (I won't, I don't play like that).

I think I'll build/convert the Overkill ones first and then fiddle about as the fancy takes me.

Edited November 22, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

I decided to start fiddling about with what I fancied first.



Over the years I have had various ideas for various chapters. With Deathwatch models I can at least try one or two of those ideas out without having to do the whole army(ies), whilst I already have a backstory for this heavily armed Ultramarine in my head. He only really works in 8th. I will jack his height a bit using the FW Zhufor waist ball trick, and also a wee bit of plasti-card slippers/out-soles as the old terminator/AoBR legs/feet are a wee bit smaller than DV Deathwatch/Deathwatch/Wolf Guard/Blood Angels (i.e. more modern plastic terminators), which i find a bit too small anyway. They do look like they stomp. Also would not be hidden by flock on a Sector Mechanicus base.

I'll explain my thinking and ideas a bit moe later on we he is more sub-assembled.

Edited January 1, 2018 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

So my initial fiddling.

Okay, the idea here is that this Ultramarine is very, very veteran. Any weapon you can think of, any xenos you can kill, he has used them all to do them all, and he still does not think it too many.

A Tryannic War Veteran and initial follower of Ortan Cassius' new approach to dealing with Tyraninds, he was also one of the first promoted to the rebuilding of the First Company after the Battle of Macragge. Having served as a Vanguard Veteran, Sternguard Veteran and terminator, his tactical flexibility is exceptional even for an Ultramarine, a Chapter noted for their doctrines (in 7th edition as was).

Thus the weapons he uses in the Deathwatch. This is mainly because you can actually arm someone like this in a Deathwatch army using Index 1 (and thus far new codices haven't invalidated Indices), and for me the only Chapter that could handle the tactical complexity involved in having such a range of weapons/roles at the same time would be an Ultramarine veteran. He is an contradiction; he looks about as non-Codex as you can get but each weapon is specifically for a differing codex role. He is just so expertly capable he can manage all four at the same time, whilst anchoring his team physically and spiritually (Unflinching rule).

Also I wanted to act upon ideas I have had for years to jazz up the old plastics, and give him chapter specific stylings that made him comparable to the more modern terminator models for DA, BA, and SW. But not too much bling (see later).

So he is an AOBR sergeants pteruges legs that I sawed off ages ago (as in years) for a Minotaur I never built. The greenstuff abdomen ball socket is curing at the moment in an Instamold, and I will make it a wee bit longer so he is a bit taller. I felt these legs were very Ultramarine as well, but also the legs are otherwise very normal like the standard old multi-part plastic box. I might add a FW brass etch Ultramarine symbol, or small eagle, to his left hip side armour plate. I'll probably avoid adding any Grandt Line rivets, like I did years ago to do my Doom Fists, as these guys are primarily black and rely on edge highlighting and not washes.

The storm bolter was sawn off a FW Carab Culln model many years ago (for the Doom Fists, which predated my Minotaurs). It was pinned to a plastic arm and already had a pin in for attaching to a body (I think I did it for a FW Carab body to sergeant conversion). I like this storm bolter now as it reminds me of the DW sergeant ones and BA Captain Karlaen one and as such seems more modern. The arm pin helped, even though plastic to plastic, as I wanted to angle the arm out more and fill with greenstuff (which needs the cabling/armoured joint effect finishing).

The Deathwing besagew type thing looked good until I put the cyclone on, I think a smaller one from a Grey Knight might work (and save this nice big one for something else), and the Ultramarine shoulder pad is FW.

Regards the cyclone as I used a Deathwing back plate (because I could and see below on diluting) the angle goes up a bit becoming more parabolic. It also meant the standard connecting front plate wouldn't work which is why he doesn't have that one.

This meant the front plate could be any I wanted, and having decided to use Cassius chest bling I needed a flat one with little detail. The chest bling will be some sort of award showing the unbreakable links between the Ultramarines and the Deathwatch. As I knew I was breaking up an Ortan (I have two Overkill boxes) I tried his head and found it worked (with a bit off clipping and greenstuff neckballing), it has an angry and patrician quality that works for a veteran Ultramarine to me. I'll probably scar the left side of his head to look like a old metal veteran (the one with bolt pistol and powerfist), and say when he fought Behemoth at the Battle of Macragge it was the first and only time a genestealer laid (rending) claw upon him.

Finally his left arm. Basically the Overkill Salamander Deathwatch power fist with built-in meltagun with the Deathwatch style couter. The only source of this part. As I will build an Overkill Salamander as stock this seemed the best place for the spare one. As for the Ultramarine besagew thing this is from the UM upgrade sprue and reminds me of something that both Cato Sicarius and Marneus Calgar have (although in this case less ornate). I think it works.

I think I shall call him Aulus Hirtius.

Overbling

I am old and have been playing for ages. As such I have bits in boxes all over, but I also remember when making something Chapter specific relied on transfers, and then maybe a few conversion bits (first Space Wolf sprue springs to mind).

Now a chapter boxed sets makes tactical marines that look utterly overblinged to me.

I noted in the Deathwatch Codex that every BA, SW, and DA Deathwatch marine seems portrayed this way, and I don't like how it jars against chapters that don't have the parts to compete. Thus I'll try and bling up Ultramarines, Imperial Fists, Crimson Fists etc whilst down-blinging the over the top former Legion boxed sets.

Diluting

With an over-bling box set/army you tend to get lots of spare bits. Also the bits that aren't spare tend to be compatible with other SM kits. Thus you can dilute over-bling kits with normal old kits (or cheap eBay saves), and whilst still maintaining the style avoid having tactical marines that look like (to me) they are wearing every chapter icon and relic and three sets of artificer armour at the same time even though they only left the scout company 10 minutes ago.

For example, I have 10 crap built stripped DV DA Deathwing, 5 mint un-built, 10 multi-part DW un-built (where I stole the backplate above from), 5 BA terminators un-built, some DW bits from bits sales, 60 crap built part stripped old plastic terminators, 40 unbuilt old plastic terminators, and about 20 AOBR terminators. And lots of FW resin shoulderpads (Ultramarines, Imperial/Crimson Fists, Red Scorpions, Deathwing, Blood Angels, Minotaurs).

Thus with a wee bit of imagination and spreading things about a bit I can probably turn 5 BA terminators into 15 purely because I have lots of old chassis to work with.

There we go. Lots of answers to questions no one asked

Edited January 1, 2018 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

So, if the guy above is about as kitbashy as I am having to get with these, then these are sort of the opposite end. The preparation.

The Overkill Blood Raven Librarian is a lovely model, with a few buts taking Index 1 and 8th edition into account.

• Currently he would use an SM datasheet so he doesn't get Special Ammunition (I envisage in a Deathwatch codex this will change), so his bolt pistol (which looks very Deathwatchy) in games terms is not
• The bonus attack for pistols and a melee weapon (non-Specialist) is long gone; this can be an issue for quite a few models which as armed don't make quite as much sense in 8th as they were built for 7th or earlier (back to 2nd to 3rd when GW unimpressed me hugely by buggering up all my metal assault marines and Death Company by invalidating their power weapons and plasma pistols; never forgive, never forget )

So, bearing that in mind, and also having standard Deathwatch Veterans armed with a boltgun and a power sword for example (i.e. the Overkill guy to be comnverted), means I can steal the Dark Angles Deathwatch plasma pistol arm for this guy. This frees up his bolt pistol for bits box/someone else. I did ponder cutting them out, and swapping in the sternguard one for example, but why create hassle unless it is really needed. They work fine as is as whole bits/parts.

Also looking at him he would make an excellent Blood Angels Librarian (as in not Deathwatch). Doing so with my second one frees up a plastic Blood Raven shoulder pad (for another Deathwatch veteran), and a second Deathwatch left bolt pistol arm. I could even use the plastic power staff from the librarian clam pack across his body instead of the sword, either for the Deathwatch BR or BA librarian, which then frees up this force sword for one of those librarians (clam pack) for variety. What goes around, comes around. Never waste anything.

The DA DV is a similar idea. I had started cutting him up (I swapped for him ages ago and he was badly rushed assembled by the swapee) ages ago, with the idea to mash weapons with other kits. However by sawing off his librarian shoulder pad (just now) and swapping in any number of DA plastic ones (so many upgrade sprues), and then using a Deathwatch multi-part power sword arm (with sword hand cut off), I can attach his old sword in either a similar pose to the original, or a different one. I could put any number of DA symbols on top of his backpack, but he is clearly so very much a DA that would probably be over-bling. His sword will need some greenstuff and hilt repair however, but that is fortunately not beyond my limited greenstuff skills.

Edited November 13, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

So the grand compacting of stuff in the office begins, which involves rolling-back WIP stuff into bags (clearly labelled) and safely packing and storing in boxes, whilst putting complete build models in appropriate carry cases.

Note doing this is sensible, look at the arms I knew I had from nearly a decade ago to use on the Deathwatch.

I did a little more on the Deathwatch Librarians but I was watching Black Hawk Down last night for the umpteenth time and was quite distracted.

However, the idea with them is for me to do them when I have the feels and the vibe until I move (i.e. I really want to build a mini), but I am a little bit excited about Necromunda. Building a Underhive board is somewhere between tedious and pointless as we'll just go 3D Gang War straight away. So sod that idea, I'll turn worked on bulkheads into barricades and save the others for the future.

Now, I did buy this lot as soon as it came out a while ago:



I am aware, that even with four promethium relay pipes, and munitorum crates set, and the barricades in the box set, and even building some stuff from my old Necromunda bulkheads, that it won't quite be enough for covering 4 2'x2' sector Imperialis battle board tiles (at least from what I have seen).

And before I even touch it to start building it, let alone painting it, I probably need to try out some old techniques to gauge how fast and effective they are, and more importantly, I am. Go look at the preview pictures/photos for Gang War at the GW website and look at the painted industrial Hive wasteland they have done and try and stay un-inspired. As well as the unpainted images of the board Forgeworld has built in this months White Dwarf (possibly even a before and after shot).

So....



Ancient, and badly stripped after someone else's paint job (using Savlon, urk), and needs love. Love or a techpriest.

Then I'll have a go denting, and adding scrapes and gouges, and dings, and mould line removal and gap filling. Then tricks with hairspray, and sand, and maybe Marmite, and Klear floor wax, and oil washes, and weathering powders, and the very cheap crackle medium, and just PVA and fine builders sand/beach sand/bird sand.

I was so young when I added those old skeleton warrior skull and crossbones (shield insets) to the drums, and thought I was so clever. Deary me.

So basically I have set myself a simple test. If I can actually restore these and paint them in a reasonable time frame I'll use the same techniques on the Sector Mechanicus stuff and the Sector Imperialis (hazard sripe roads to Hive it) in the future.

If I don't then I'll flog them and let someone else worry about terrain.

Oh, and if I enjoy myself too. That might be important as well

Edited November 13, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Sagentus]

Interested to see how the different techniques come out on the old bits of scenery. Defo tempted to try the hairspray method some day, might do a DG detachment some day so i can give it a go, prime with black, spray brown or paint brown where needed, then get the hairspray out. hopefully it would then look like a rust effect :) 

[Marius Perdo]

@Sagentus: The hairspray technique can work great on vehicles and buildings, but on infantry models it can go odd. Give me a few days and I'll show you what I have discovered in research.

Chipping Techniques

Hairspray: Ideally decant the spray into a container and then airbrush on. Otherwise there is less control and it can obliterate detail. Also needs a fair bit of faffing about with sealing with varnish which again does for detail. Also is quite messy (and smelly if scented). I know this from my Doom Fists.

Marmite: Worked Okay on my FW tank factory but again having to seal prior to applying and then spraying, as well as the mess dissolving in warm water (the bath for the tank factory) it was very faffy and messy. Does give precise control with a brush though.

Hairspray and sand: This worked great doing chip damage to my sprayed on black delta on my Minotaurs rhino, and with card decorating vinyl masks (for numbers/markings, not that any card shops I know ever have it) looks like it would work great for number markings on vehicles, containers, building etc. I learnt this from the FW Masterclass book (they really are great books).

Salt and water: A bit like hairspray but the salt crystals are very imprecise and binding with water does not look fun. Also removing the whiteness afterwards looks like a faff. At least teh solvent is water so no sealing would be needed.

Sponge: Using paint and a bit of sponge does work but the chips should be under the paint job, not on it, and the counterpoint highlighting to add depth looks like a faff. I watched someone do it various times on videos, no way, too slow and with my eyes....

Latex mask and sponge: Found this yesterday, and it looks great. Basically dab on latex using a sponge over the chip colour. Then spray the top colour on. When dry rub tac over the latex mask and it pulls off the latex revealing the chipping colour underneath.

What I found great about the last technique was the sponge allowed great control and produced random patterns that you could see beforehand. If you don't like any remove the rubber before painting.

What really sold me though was the chipping colour was actually mixed weathering powders (and actual iron oxide powder). The area of the model to be chipped (in this case rusted) had a mix of enamel based dull cote varnish and enamel thinners painted straight on to the undercoat (which admittedly has to be water based acrylics using an airbrush so it doesn't react with the enamel thiners, so spray cans are out). Before it dries you blend the mixed rust coloured pigments straight into the varnish. This means it dries fixed and you can apply the sponged latex straight to where you want chips.

Then you airbrush on the base coat colour. Once that is dry, and you have used tac to remove the latex/rubber, you can use neat enamel thinners on the rust patches (or even panels) to release the pigments again, and then blend and streak down the rust over the base coat in water streaks. Once dried you can seal again with gloss varnish (or Klear, seen this done with an airbrush too) and do the usual weathering with an ink wash and further weathering powders (like dust etc.)

You basically get your chipping colour and rust weathering done at the same time, and don't have to mess about doing a separate sealing layer.

For spot pitting using the hairspray and fine sand in conjunction might work, prior to the base coat but after the latex has been done on the areas with big chips.

We'll see, I have what I need, I'll just need to find some old gloopy citadel greats and mix up an acrylic undercoat (I have loads from years ago, and it saves buying a water based airbrush acrylic undercoat).

This should work great on terrain bits and the Sector Imperialis board, and vehicles I guess, less so on infantry miniatures.

However I'll need something to paint.



Firstly I am impressed with the height three munitorum armoured containers reach.

Secondly I had already opened the Ferratonic when i got it so I thought I might as well see how big it was and how it looked.

Thirdly I'll be gluing the old drums, crates, and cargo palettes together into clusters, basically for ease of painting and placement. I like things on the palettes as they can get high enough to block line of sight for 25mm based models.

I have tried to also create some spaces where a model on 25/32mm bases can stand using bases as a test.

I will also do one container as a test as it is a larger model.

As an aside looking at Gang War I finally managed to read what GW used for their board.

Not cheap.

Promethium Forge x2

Galvanic Magnavent x3

Ferratonic Furnace x2

Alchomite Stack x1

Ferratonic Incinerator x1

Munitorum Armoured Containers x1
Necromunda Barricades and Objectives x2

Thermic Plasma Regulators x1

Thermic Plasma Conduits x2

Realm of Battle Sector Imperialis tiles x4

Now, I have:

Promethium Forge x1
Galvanic Magnavent x1
Ferratonic Furnace x1
Alchomite Stack x1
Ferratonic Incinerator x1
Munitorum Armoured Containers x1
Necromunda Barricades and Objectives x0.5
Promethium Relay Pipes x4
Realm of Battle Sector Imperialis tiles x4 (6)

So, I reckon if I buy one of the new Promethium Refineries, and a Thermic Plasma Regulator and a Conduits set I should be able to do something similar. I won't though until I prove I can paint the test stuff to a nice standard and do it quickly(ish).

As an aside the GW images have the tops missing off the Ferratonic Furnaces and have done a green water effetct in them, like giant sump tanks, with a small dangerous walkway/platform on top. I'll have to try that as knocking people back to burn and drown in toxic gloop can't be missed.

Edit: I also dug out my Dremmel type thing to aid in damaging and distressing crates (on top of using files etc). I'll need to be careful as I don't want to go through panels that in real life would malform, dent, and crumple, but on a model just ends up being holes

Edited November 15, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Sagentus]

Great wrote up on the different techniques. The latex sponge one sounds interesting.

 

You certainly have a lot of scenery already and itll be cool to see you emulate the gw board :-)

[Marius Perdo]

@Sagentus: Ta. I can but test to see if I should try.

I have positioned and glued the old bits into clusters that are currently drying.

I will not be able to ding them up until tomorrow.

I did build a stack of 4 drums, 1 on top of 3, that can be added in to the palettes for variety.

The armoured container was built months ago, and was fair game for dinging up.

Not that it can be easily seen.

I did about a half dozen deep cuts with clippers, and then filed them down with a oval file to look like big dents/crumples and take the sharp clip edges off. I did about two dozen hard edge bluntings/crumplings using a mold removal tool, for which it is brilliant. Then I did about a dozen light scrapes/gouges on flat panels. I then light sandpapered all over, concentrating on dings, using Grade 0 Grit 220 sandpaper.

This sort of prep really shows up later on, especially with washes, and is an obvious point for the rust effect chipping as the paint would have flaked off there first after an impact.

Tomorrow I'll do something similar to the crates and oil drums, The tough handling is also a good test for these clusters to see if they hold up to handling. Better to know sooner rather than later.

Edited November 15, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

Okay, so I have started actually painting something (sort of).

I decided to do a container.

Key goals are effective, quick, and durable, regards techniques and their results.

Preparatory work was researching rust but also thinking about the history and setting off the object.

I want something abandoned, derelict, that has not been used in some time, which is beginning to really rust, in a environment that has oxygen and moisture in constant supply (like inside a Hive, or abandoned manufactorum zone).

It also needs to work for WH40K and Necromunda.

First activity was I had a shower and whilst in there cleaned it with soap and water and a toothbrush to make sure no plastic residue etc was still adhering to it.

It did not leak at all, I must have built it so securely there was no sloshing of water within (like when I clean rhinos). This means they can be built truly sealed.

Having read up way too much about rust online, I knew the key words of friable, flaky, and expansive were resonating with what I felt I wanted. As I wasn't doing chains I knew cracking was not a word to worry about. As for flaking crackle medium can be a bugger to use AND it will need up flaking off when trying to use the terrain pieces. So no actually flaking paint or rust.

So I wanted that pitting expansive effect, which is 3D but obviously not on the models. I also wanted it to stay on. It should add to a sense of scale. Whilst pointless on infantry something rhino sized and larger will probably benefit from this.

So I mixed PVA glue and talc (bicarb would probably work too). I mixed it to a paste consistency and then added fine beach sand and acrylic soluble varnish (bought cheap years ago when a local art shop shut down).


I then applied it with a brush and toothpick on some dings and open panels.



When dried (which it did remarkably quickly) I brushed quite forcibly with a toothbrush in case any was loose. Better it came off now than later.

Lesson learned with hindsight: The effect much later on was far better than I could have imagined. I should have put more on, less is not more in this case. However sponging on would probably work better than using a toothpick.

Due to the technique I would use later I needed a water based acrylic undercoat. I mixed (actually did it years ago) Codex Grey with X20A and tried an atomiser. This was made of fail.

I sighed and dug out my airbrush.



Primed nicely and evenly.

Note the products I used were actually the Humbrol Matte Coat (my thinners hasn't arrived yet), so I thinned that varnish with artists spirits instead. I used the powders shown. I did not use the Allad II Klear Matte Kotte stuff I picked up from a closing model railway shop years ago as it turns out it was for water based weathering. The pre-mixed Mig stuff is shown as you cannot use this but it might help later.

I was going to only coat the bits that I wanted rust on, but rapidly got why coating everything makes sense (it is easier).



Lessons Learned:

• Coat everything, but do it a side at a time, or it is too sticky and wet to handle. This will require patience (I wasn't). Making a production line of several kits at once, when happy with technique will really help.
• It makes sense to mix the darkest rust powder in with the varnish/thinners mix and almost use it as a base-coat. Before it dries blend in the lighter rust shades. Essentially you coat the model in a weathering powder shell when the varnish cures (binds and protects in once activity and layer).
• You need more dark, less medium, and least light rust powders (not the way round I did it).
• Weathering powders looks great on the sand pitting parts done earlier. More would have looked better.
• You obviously use old brushes. They shed hairs. The varnish sticks them to the model so that will require tidying up (which I have done but can be seen in the next picture.
  

It looks Okay, and you could go hairspray technique next but I will use latex.

However I am leaving it to cure for a bit as although everything is drying very quickly I only want to push it so far with the hairdryer.

Edited November 17, 2017 by Marius Perdo

[Marius Perdo]

So, notes first.

Shelf life. I opened a Humbrol Maskol years ago (same source, model railway shop closing). So whilst cheap still a waste. The other was fine.

The Art Mask Fluid is too watery for this, not tacky enough.



And after rubbing airbrushing with a sort of Desert Yellow/Bubonic Borwn mix that I added some Golden Yellow to until is pretty much matched Golden Brown. Or mustard yellow as my missus said.

And then rubbed all over with white-tac, which you will never use for anything else ever again.

Not bad. Certainly easier and less messy than hairspray. Basically a doddle and incredibly quick and effective. This has taken longer to build than it has to paint so far (ignoring glue drying and paint drying times).

Downsides:

• Tac will briefly be just for this, and then binned.
• You have to remove all the latex you put on or it will just rub off later, with hairpsray you can stop when you feel there is enough removed.
• You have to have gotten all the latex you want on in the first instance, if you put on too little and then colour coat it is too late.
• It is quite a forceful technique, fragile models and models with fiddly bits to get latex into/onto aren't going to be great with this, but industrial style and robust terrain...oh yeah.

So next is making sure all the rubber is off (toothbrush rub).

Then some thinners to release the rust pigments and then blend/bleed them into surrounding paint and tease out rust/water streaks. And that is why you bind the powders to the "hull" using the Matt Cote/thinners mix, so you can re-manipulate them later on.

Edited October 26, 2019 by Marius Perdo