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SW1's Wolves


SW1

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Yes he can be. Though in the ETL you can include individual characters so even if he wasn't he could be done as an individual vow. ;)

 

I've updated the pics in the previous post. You can tell I started off giving plenty of space to each model and by the last pic I just slapped them down as I was knackered. :p

YES!!! 

I wish I had snuck him into my bag of paints now.

 

Think I have Ulrik, Njal inTDA, Ragnar, 5metal wulfen, & 4 Wolf Lords to get me going.

 

I am keeping the first vow small as I will be hand painting them all :)

 

Between you & me, I think this is going to be a really fun ETL.

 

How is MJ coming on with his proxy vow?

YES!!!

I wish I had snuck him into my bag of paints now.

 

Think I have Ulrik, Njal inTDA, Ragnar, 5metal wulfen, & 4 Wolf Lords to get me going.

 

I am keeping the first vow small as I will be hand painting them all :)

 

Between you & me, I think this is going to be a really fun ETL.

 

How is MJ coming on with his proxy vow?

He's going to acquire one of my duplicate named characters probably Ragnar. He didn't make it over to mine last Friday but should do this Friday coming. Will get him involved with the mounting onto a pot and priming.

 

Lol ... He almost decided to paint up some DA's just to wind me up but I've guided him away from this folly. :tu:

Just a note to anyone seeing this and thinking of making a really big vow. ONLY VOW WHAT YOU CAN PAINT IN A REASONABLE TIME!!! I know I can definitely paint this within the first month and my target is by the end of May. I'm actually looking to paint a lot more than the initial vow. However just incase I get unexpected delays I have a buffer of 2 months.

 

At the risk of sounding like a jumping record I can't stress this enough ... a completed vow of 50 points is more valuable than a 3,000 point failed vow.

It's fiddly but simple. Thin sausage of gs lightly pressed onto the back of the fingers. Flatten the back of it with a blade. Trim the thickness to be just a bit wider than needed and get rid of a bit of excess length. Then flatten the sides of the ring a bit with the flat of the blade (make sure you've got it wet/used lube or this bit will just mean it lifts off the back of the fingers). Then trim down to the correct width and trim the sides so it doesn't go over the other fingers.

 

I kept on forgetting to wet my blade and repeatedly messing up.

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/gallery/image/182514-image/

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/gallery/image/182515-image/

Does anyone know how to keep small amounts of gs to stay put on models? Just tried doing the final undercoating on some of the models with the gs rings and the air pressure pops them off. :(

 

They're that small and delicate they're breaking while I'm trying to pick them back up.

 

Would hand painting a varnish or something over them be enough?

 

I'm going to re-sculpt them this afternoon/evening which will give me tomorrow after work to sort out the final undercoat layer.

Hmmm, it may be the blue to yellow ratio in your mixing. I pretty frequently just stick stuff on w/o glue and typically don't have issues. That or your stock is old. I just ordered more and was very upset I had been using garbage as long as I had. I had inherited some army painter GS in that terrible ribbon format and its trash, albeit free trash in this instance. I'll never use anything other than the Kneadatite Blue & Yellow (the stuff that comes in what looks liek a roll of quarters) anymore.

Yea its this stuff:

https://www.michtoy.com/michtoy2010/products/Picture_KBYopenTube-blue-yellow-tub.jpg

 

Im sure its all the same but I suspect these are the guys who GW and AP buy through. The stuff in the tape always has so much waste because some genius packaged stuff that cures on contact, in contact...

Well i use milliput but haven't used it on minis just in the workshop it even sticks on oiled aluminum and it has many grades of thickness (i use black which is the thickest ) I believe that the white grade milliput is so fine you can sculpt on it. I have come to use it as much as duct-tape WD40 and my trusty hammer :biggrin.:

I use the pale grey and yellow milliputt. If ou mix it 50/50 with GS, you get quite a nice workable material to fill and sculpt with.

 

Milliput becomes hard, but not brittle, it almost acts like GS but you can sand it and sculpt sharp edges, which GS is not so good at.

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