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  1. I've done a quick video on how to magnetise the new Field Ordnance Battery for the Astra Militarum Hope its useful to some of you - its probably not the best way of doing it, but it works and its hidden so that will do nicely for me. Cheers
  2. Hey everyone, welcome to my hobby thread! If you're looking for one of the colour scheme tutorials from my 'March of the Legions' project or one of the basing tutorials, please check the bottom of this post for all of the relevant links. If you can't find what you're looking for or if you have a question that's not answered in the relevant post, please feel free to send me a private message. Regards, Kizzdougs. For more regular updates check out my Instagram account @raptorimperialis I've recently been feeling the urge to start a new 40K project. After much musing and many false starts, i've decided on the Thousand Sons, Pre-heresy. They aren't my favourite legion or chapter but the TS have always be a legion full of character, imagery and conversion opportunities. A perfect combination in my opinion. This project has been at least two years in the planning process. It all started when i converted a PH TS sorcerer for a conversion competition at my local GW (which i was lucky enough to win). After building the Sorcerer i knew i had to make some more TS, they are just so fun and different. Unfortunately it has taken me over two years to finally get here. The Sorcerer who started it all. He is a relatively simple kit bash with minimal GS work. I took inspiration from the Thousand Sons art in 'Collected Vissions', especially that of Ahriman and Uthizarr. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/photo-3.jpg The test mini. I used bits from several kits to build this terminator, the majority are from the GK terminator kit and the Tomb Guard kit (WHFB). http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0290.jpg?t=1313302289 With crest added. I can't decide whether to give all the terminators these crests or just keep them for the squad leaders. Any opinions and suggestions are welcome. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0291.jpg?t=1313302233 http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0292.jpg?t=1313302169 A close up of the force weapon. Such a simple conversion but i'm fairly happy with how it turned out. Sorry about the bad lighting. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0289.jpg?t=1313302359 Hopefully this project will develop and progress at a not too slow pace (fingers crossed). I plan on adding some Sisters of Silence and maybe even some Custodes at a later stage. I'm certainly feeling the necessary inspiration at the moment. Any and all suggestions and advice are more than welcome, as are questions and queries. Thanks for looking EDIT: March of the Legions Painting Tutorials: Space Marine eye lenses Legions without tutorials: World Eaters Iron Warriors Sons of Horus The Rout Imperial Fists Night Lords Thousand Sons White Scars Legions with tutorials: Blood Angels Death Guard Emperor's Children - Palatine Breachers tutorial Emperor's Children Metallic (airbrush) Salamanders Ultramarines Raven Guard Word Bearers Alpha Legion (no airbrush) - Alpha Legion (airbrush) Effrit Stealth Scheme Dark Angels Iron Hands Thousand Sons World Eaters Hobby tutorials: Basing - ZM/industrial Greenstuff tutorial Desert/rocky base building Desert/rocky base painting Eye Lens Tutorial
  3. Not a fan of how stubby firstborn marines are? Impartial to them but want a little consistency in your mainly-primaris force? I've written up a short guide on kitbashing the standard Vanguard Veteran kit into a more realistically-proportioned space marine using the fairly new Assault Intercessors kit as a baseline. The pictures aren't great as I wrote this tutorial after the modelling process was finished but I think it gets the point across. You can find it on my new blog: Fistful of Beans here. Your feedback on the tutorial and the blog is appreciated, brothers.
  4. Well, I promised it a little while back and I figure 'why not'. Okay, that was on my Age of Darkness Thread. "Go make a tutorial" they said, "it'll be [maybe] useful" they said. Well I'm here to prove them wrong! ... wait... Anyhow, this is Vykes' blandly and messily weathers vehicles and power armoured troopers. As a bit of a preamble, there's probably a much easier way to do this, but I'm kinda stuck with this and I'm used to it, so it works fairly well. Toy around and you'll find something that works for ya, too! if this is of any use, rock on, glad to hear! Step 1: the Gathering Storm There's not a lot to say here, the basics of this are pretty easy to get: -some water soluable oil paints (IMPORTANT FOR ME AS I'M LAZY AND IT TAKES VERY LITTLE TIME TO DRY.... comparatively), Raw umber and Ochre are my favourites for Sons of Horus. However, Ochre was more or less a Bob Ross style happy accident as it gives the green more of an olive tone and shows up on black pretty well. On other coloured power armour you might want to substitute other colours, such as greys or even mixing a few of your own. -weathering powder pigments. For this we went with terracotta earth (rusty red), a bit of european earth or slate (just something, I used a touch of both but it's minor), and carbon black (for exhaust) -brushes, a wide flat brush is fantastic for vehicles but works great in general, and some thinner easier brush you don't mind having been ruined applying powdered pigments. -some sponge for most of your work, here. -tweezers to avoid getting your fingers as messy as mine -water for, well, the "so-called-oil" -pigment fixer/matte varnish just to make sure it mattes down and doesn't come loose and gum up everything. Extra: -a high pigment metal colour such as Chrome from the Vallejo Metallics line. Step 2: Subject Checklist Alright, so you got your weathering stuff and you got your water. Now you're missing something and... oh yeah, a model. Well today we're working on a Vindicator laser destroyer that I clipped and totally gouged and vaguely mangled (snipped a few parts off I shouldn't have at 2 AM... blast). But it'll work. And there's a power armoured mk. V vet sergeant that will be here just to show the whole method works for it, too. -Be sure that you have your decals/transfers sealed in! Gloss varnish is good but as long as you have everything stuck down you're good to go. Aaaah my lovely minty green, I love that colour for tanks, plants, and quirky unicorns. Oh, and as a last bit of prep, that nice little bit of sponge you got? Tear it into a weird bread-like chunk so you can get ready for the next step. Y'know, just like this! ... why I felt I needed to take a picture, I don't know. Ask '8 AM on a rainy freezing June day' me. Step 3: Do the Dab This one isn't hard, it's just making sure you get everything. That raw umber water soluble oil paint? Squeeze some of it out into a tiny little palette/plate/plastic/cardobard bit, and make sure you coat most of the sponge. Then roll it around like you were trying to make a drybrush out of it, you don't want any goopy lumps and try a test dab. You should get a nice little speckled pattern. Cover the vehicle in your random splotched, cover everything! Just, you know, don't lather it on in dollops. There's no huge technique here yet, but getting the edges and major surfaces is just kinda important (will tell why in a second or two). Extra pic is all: -Then do it all over again with Ochre, which you can apply almost immediately! Does it look kinda obscene and pretty horrible? Oooooh yeah. Get used to that. Extra Pic again: Step 4: "Wipe! Wipe! WIPE!" AKA the Adrian Monk Effect Alright, in this, it's kinda the quintessential 'it sounds like it's pointless but trust me'. That little bit of 'importance' in getting it a little random? Yeah, it's acting as surface impurities and imperfections on the hull. -dip a flat brush in water and then wipe most of the moisture off. Then drag the brush over the oil covered hulk, dragging in one principle direction. Top down, front to back. Wet and repeat this process until you've covered the whole tank (if you need to cheat and get the cracks, just make sure to go back over it in the same direction as before). This will create nice long irregular streaks and markings. Left half done, right half not! Extra pic yet again! And it works on power armour, too! Same thing, left half done, right not. You'll end up with something like this. Oh, and as oil dries pretty slow (like, not insanely) but you can reactivate it with water and go over tide marks and anything you don't like. I just decide I enjoy it a little. Step 5: Le Huile Deja vu! Alright, so once again, take your raw umber paint sponge, 'cause you'll need it. Do the same as before but make sure you only end up with a little speckling when you test rolling it. Now comes a bit more of the fun stuff. -take the umber sponge and dab it against the edges, focusing on points where damage or wear looks most interesting and convincing. We aren't replicating Tiger 007 in Normandy, it's visuals for me. Go for the edges, and make sure to add a bit on larger plates to convey the sense of metal pitting and flecking. Think of those pewter models and where they inevitably liked to drive you crazy for where they would fleck paint off. Because this serves to show some corrosion, and as a basis for where you'll be laying down some of your chrome chipping after the fact). It's also perfectly fine in speckling an area and dragging the sponge just a touch to add some directional 'scuffs'. After you get done you'll see something like the below bit... just let it dry, even for 1 hour is usually enough with water soluable oils. Step 6: Take a Powder Dry to the touch but still clammy and horrible feeling? Good, that's oil for you. It's a pain. Now, powder, that's also a pain but for different reasons. (NOTE: I know pigment fixers can help with adherence and such on this initial step, I'm just lazy and this works for me. Meh). -Take your glorious clammy oily model and get your powders ready! Start with your darker earthtones, the rusty finish in particular is big for me and I use it a lot. Load up your brush, and powder it in with irregular spots. Make sure to stipple it and work the pigment into the crevices and corners, letting it actually work into the model. Take particular care to add these to recesses where dust and soot and grime would powder or water would form rust marks; so it's probably good to focus on deep sharp crevices including tracks and road wheels! -then, you can add slate or other earthtones overtop and 'smooth' out the harsh transitions. Your model is gonna still look gaudy, now it's just gonna look like someone dusted it with delicious delicious cinnamon. Extra picture once more Final point of note, black exhaust powder. Alright, I sometimes cheat a bit, I use black exhaust powder on the larger open vents for vehicles, but most of the time it's on the exhaust of infantry as it just settles nicer. Use your grungy brush to work it liberally into the vents, exhaust, etc, and get ready 'cause you're almost done. Step 7: The End is Nigh! varnish it.... seriously, that's it. Spray varnish works the best, start mid-stream like a bad medical check and swipe it very lightly over your model. It'll settle most of the powder it hits, then sweep it a few more times across and get into all the angles you need. You can do another layer after this is dry, or just blast it again. Inevitably it'll blow off excess lovely weathering powder so do it outside or with a mask, or something like usual with any sort of varnish that has parciles. It also serves to tone down the model and makes the vibrant weathering powder more subdued along with the oil. I use a really simple Liquitex matte varnish through my airbrush and it comes out sorta satin, but the usual gold standard dulcoat is as good as ever. Step 8: You Gonna Go Far Kid! *Hums the rest of the nightcore version to himself. So you wanna go the extra mile, ya wanna be the champ? Goin' for the gold Rocky! Okay so it's not that hard, for chipping just take a small brush and 'stipple' like you'd edge highlight just, y'know, you don't have to worry abou tit looking perfect. Or even good. Once again, remember those old pewter models and how they used to chip and you'll be good to go! just drag it where you already sponged on some of the heavier edges with the umber and it brings out a little extra 'pop'. But hoOOoold on thar Baba Looey! One might ask "What if we want to meld the new weathered model with a base? Won't they look different?" Or someone might ask that to someone else, most people mostly just ask me, "What are you doing loitering by the mall entrance?" But does the same technique work on bases? Yes, yes it does. ----- ...Till next time.
  5. Hello! I have been asked few times about my black armor recipe so I have made that quick step by step tutorial on how I do it. I hope it will be useful to someone :)
  6. My friend Bloodbeard has shared a tutorial on how to make fire escapes for your buildings. Cheap and solid method! Tutorial: Fire Escapes and Ladders MDF buildings are a great and cheap way to fill out a board. But having a couple of different houses, most just come with one door. The limits the gaming options with then, creating nasty choke points (which is fine sometimes). Decided to make some entry points on the second floors with some fire escapes. I made two different kinds. One angled type for my Laser Model Store houses and straight for the TT Combat houses. The fire escapes are made broader than 25mm, because I want them to fit on bigger models as well. This wouldn't be a problem in Last Days and Walking Dead. But I do have some mutants for This Is Not A Test and Scrappers that has bigger bases. The finished result can be seen at the bottom of the article. Materials - Sprue (I used Mantic Games bases sprue) - Plastic glue - A tiny bit of plastic card (could work with sprue as well) Step 1 - prep the sprues Mantic Games 25mm round bases come on perfect sprues. The are straight and have 90 degree angles. Prepare by cleaning them up. Glue two together to make the angled fire escape. Step 2 - cut off Cut off the extra sprue, to make a nicely shaped angle. Step 3 - railing Making use of the nice angles on the sprue, it's easy to cut out and attach some railing to the fire escape platform. Step 4 - playing with fire Use a candle and heat up some sprue. Bend it into a hooked shape. These will be used to secure the fire escapes in the windows of the houses. Bending with heat is better than glueing - it's much stronger. This is the bit that will take any tension. For the straight fire escapes the hooks are bend directly from the base frame, no need to glue. MDF houses is often double layered on he walls. So aim for a 6mm wide space in the hooks. Step 5 - finishing Attach the hooks to the angled fire escape. Make sure they fit with a window in the building. The Laser Model Store has a small line sticking out at the second floor. So using a bit of sprue and a tiny bit of plastic card I made grip to get around that. So the fire escape is secured on both sides. Lastly add as much sprue as you want to walk on. Fill out the fire escape. Add some extra sprue to the railing as well. Ladders Again using a candle, med some hooked pieces of sprue. Use these to make some ladders. I've made six short and two long fire escape ladders. These can hook on to the fire escape, make further access to a roof. Painting I base coated the ladders and fire escapes with a brown spray. Drybrushed it all with gun metal. Quick shade varnished the stuff with a heavy layer. It's an easy way to get a dirty rusty look. Showcase I think the addition of the fire escapes add a nice inner city downtown vibe to the buildings. Here they're used on a TT Combat house. Homemade felt mat - tutorial. Fire escape on a Laser Model Store house.
  7. http://i.imgur.com/diCjF4Y.jpg http://i.imgur.com/twaNIFr.jpg
  8. ... or woes and pitfalls of miniature priming! I've just started a new YouTube channel, enjoy :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oVdCAkbOUY
  9. Power Falx for Scythes of the Emperor A Guide to parts for creating this signature weapon. http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/scythes-wip-example.jpg This guide came about from the Scythes of the Emperor Power Falx that was seen on my LJ Goulding Scythes competition entry. The following shows key components I personally would choose (and have used), however the blade in my competition version I have not identified (rushed build and well, a deep bitz collection). So much like yourself, I am seeking suitable blades for repeated builds. Firstly, let's look at what consitutes a Falx weapon. For this example we refer to the Dacian Falx. You can also read my indepth version on Falces (falx. plural) on my website The-Scythes.com. A Dacian Falx, double edged, two handed sword: http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/falx2.jpg Single edged Falx, similar to historically modified Scythe-halberds: http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Falx.jpg With these historical designs in mind, lets go bits shopping: (Zombie Scythe, Dark Elf Chariot Halberd, Wood Elves Tree Revenants, Skaven Clanrat Spears, Dark Eldar Power Sword, Dark Elf Corsair Swords) http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/scythe-bits-examples.jpg Having browsed for Scythe blades, swords with fine curved double edges, it's time to find the power weapon handles. These were chosen for a lack of wires and cables, making for a cleaner modification: (Dark Angel Veteran Power Weapons; 2 pairs, 4 versions and Deathwatch Power Weapons; 2 versions) http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/scythes-weapons-use-1024x1024.jpg Combining these you can start to create weapons suitable to the Scythes of the Emperor Chapter. Falx combat blades and Falx power weapons. At this stage you will need to cut the join edge of the blade, trimmed to suit length and attachment to the handles: http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/scythes-example-falx-1024x674.jpg http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/scythes-combat-blades-1024x719.jpg http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Photo-3-11-2015-15-20-43-e1446521155720-300x300.jpg As you can see this is fairly straight forward. However, taking the detail to a new level is challenging. To create a Power Node requires (in this approach) a thin slice of a 1mm styrene rod (Node dot) and fine wire (I used brass wire 0.5mm): http://the-scythes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/scythes-falx-example.jpg On review, I can see my own work is slightly off centre! Despite many minutes of careful gluing using fine dots of superglue. Ultimately I hope this helps my fellow Sothan Brothers equipping their marines with Power Falces and stylised combat blades. The weapon style (in fiction) is an honour weapon bestowed on particularly gifted fighters. **If anyone knows the blade I used in my own Falx, please state below, thank you!** Thank you for reading and look forward to more Falces about the forum! Sebastian.
  10. So it's been probably years since I have put my face on these forums and it's probably time I get back to where it all started... I've had some very hectic tournaments in the last few years, focusing primarily on CSM but moved the start of 2016 to the loyalist and superior codex of SPACE MARINES! I've gone through a full circle event realising that as much as I do love Death Guard, they were not heavy on the chaos iconography like other chaos marines were so I went back and built a full army of loyalist kits with the preheresy scheme with a few worn out models but mostly basic painting on them. I ran with this on the CSM codex for a good two years, heavily investing in vindicators, land raider and terminators to get my work done and I performed well most games but then the codex creep came... Experiments with 4 Maulerfiends, Cypher in Spawn stars, and all the like left me feeling let down by the basic elements of the army and so the Emperors guiding light set me free. The leap into using preheresy models came almost 2 years ago because of their rugged and tough appearance plus being expensive they were not seen often at tournaments in this area so I took to it quickly and they suited my painting style - fast and washy! Within months I had made 50 marines and a few tanks as well as ordered 15 odd terminators, which is now in the 50 mark thanks to BAC and BOP box sets. My shift in the hobby though turned towards the hobby, where I found solace those earlier years when things in life just seemed tough, warhammer and particularly the building of terrain gave me a reason to be excited for tomorrow. https://www.facebook.com/DistrictTerra/ I put most of my stuff on here, been using it as a good creative release and have just in the last month moved in to a much bigger home where I can finally get some real work done and all those half finished projects can go to rest. Just to make sure there is enough spam in the post. I hope to reconnect again with those of you I may have lost, and make new friends along the way!!! Introduce yourself either here or FB. Looking forward to a good reunion.
  11. Why have one tank when you can have two - or more? The current Guard vehicles are good kits and lend themselves to magnetising well for the most part, so in collaboration with the talented Elmo9141 and Kilofix I have embarked on a grand crusade to cover the topic in the entirety for both novice and experienced magnet user alike. Macharius would be proud Index ImperialisWhy Magnetise An Introduction to Magnets; Sizes and Suppliers Surface Attachment Countersunk Attachment Tabs Trusses Embedding and Reinforcing with Green Stuff Vehicle Magnetisation Tutorials Chimera - Elmo Leman Russ Battle Tank - Elmo Hellhound/Devil Dog/Bane Wolf - Elmo Sentinel - Elmo Wyvern/Hydra - Elmo Baneblade/Shadowsword/Stormlord/etc - Elmo Manticore/Deathstrike - scatmandoo Pintle mounted Stubber/Stormbolter - nismogrendel Leman Russ Demolisher/Punisher/Executioner - Elmo Taurox Prime - MoGuy Infantry Magnetisation Tutorials Bullgryns - WarriorFish
  12. Imren

    fetaste Biel Tan tutorial

    From the album: eldar paintscheme

    eldar biel-tan paint scheme
  13. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 11

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    So that's how to build custom bases out of leftover sprue and putty! I hope this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.
  14. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 10

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    It doesn't matter if you hit underlying sprue - it carves away just as easily as the millistuff, no worries.
  15. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 09

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    You can also use sandpaper to help shape and smooth out the base, if so desired (I haven't done so with this one but oh well).
  16. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 08

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    Let everything dry again! Preferably overnight at least. Once it's dry, you can start carving parts away to further refine the shape of the base and remove any leftover, stray fingerprints.
  17. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 07

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    It also helps to wet the feet of the model and press it into the millistuff while it's still soft, to leave an impression of where the feet/whatever should go. Some of the water used to keep the model from sticking to the base is still visible here.
  18. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 06

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    Now's a good time to make sure your model fits properly on the base - if not, adjust as necessary!
  19. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 05

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    Here's the base completely covered with millistuff and roughly shaped.
  20. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 04

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    Keep on building up the millistuff! Remember, it doesn't have to be particularly neat at this point. Use water to help smooth surfaces out and remove any fingerprints.
  21. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 03

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    When everything's dry enough to no longer move around, start spreading on more millistuff, roughly shaping the base as you go.
  22. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 02

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    Trim any stray sprue bits down, and fill in any large gaps with either millistuff or smaller bits of sprue. Once you've got an overall shape you're happy with, let things dry so they're not shifting around for the next part.
  23. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 01

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    First step: Coat the base with a thin layer of greenstuff/milliput and smooth it out. Then start shoving sprue onto it! Rough out the general shape with various bits of sprue either glued into place, or held in place with more bits of millistuff.
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