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Night Lords 18th Battle Company (Treadhead)


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How did you do the Autocannon guy? he is just the maddest beast ;) love 'im

 

Can I please have a group shot? and the daemon prince, Me loves it, I was going to do the same thing with the lord of my renegade chapter, (when he had the sword and without the wings on his head)

 

Step by step for the Autocannon man, PLEASE

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Somewhere else on this forum, I saw a really brilliant use of the kneeling legs from the command squad box. The modeller had taken the "up" leg - the one that has the groin and hips attached - and stuck an outstretched leg from the assault legs to the other side. It resulted in a stance that conveyed motion and purpose - and a stance I'm borrowing for one of my tactical marines. :rolleyes:
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Sorry for letting this thread go to sleep guys! I moved from Tennessee to Texas this week and i havn't gotten internet or any of my modeling stuff set up yet. On the list is the coveted autocannon tutorial, Warpwhisper i'll be getting your pictures and making some new marines!

 

Have fun!

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Sorry for letting this thread go to sleep guys! I moved from Tennessee to Texas this week and i havn't gotten internet or any of my modeling stuff set up yet. On the list is the coveted autocannon tutorial, Warpwhisper i'll be getting your pictures and making some new marines!

 

Have fun!

 

In that case - Welcome, neighbor! :P

 

Looking forward to seeing more of your work. It's especially inspirational, since I'm using the same up-sizing method on my Raiders - I think I'll call them "Danscaled". ^_^

Edited by AdeptusDavidus
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Brother Deaem's Silencer is from a scout sniper rifle. The only other silencer is on one of the old alpha legion marines. It's made from some plasticard that i drilled holes in to make a muzzle break. It was a pain so i only did it once.

 

I live in north Texas now. About an hour from Dallas.

I used to live in clarksville TN. I was stationed at Ft. Campbell

 

"Danscaled" Certainly sounds nice. I know of a bunch of people spaceing legs out with plasticard but i haven't seen anyone do the torso the way i do, or the waist, and neck. I'll have to make a tutorial!

 

I used to play "plague marine" night lords and modeled them with an apothecary to give them feel no pain. I stopped using them a year ago but have started again after some lessons learned in the 'ard boys semi finals. I haven't decided how i'll model them yet but they are on the list.

Edited by Dan The Deamon
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"Danscaled" Certainly sounds nice. I know of a bunch of people spaceing legs out with plasticard but i haven't seen anyone do the torso the way i do, or the waist, and neck. I'll have to make a tutorial!

 

Well, the "Cry Wolf" pattern (in the Librarium), and Elusive71's (in the Modelling Tutorials) are very similar. My method is a horrible abomineered bastardization of their methods and yours.

 

Mostly, though, I mean to call mine "Danscaled" as an homage, since you've definitely inspired me to work more and faster on my Raiders. :(

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Wow

I like him. i noticed the bent leg looks like the kneeling one. however there is a gap between the two segments. did you make it out of some others? The Bezerker leg is a great fit, after some shaving of course.

one thing i had to learn the hard way was when sawing the legs in half to insert spacers always go completely flat. The only example i can give you is the bezerker thigh it goes parallel to the base, where i find it easier to go parallel with the knee joint if you will. If i stink at explaining just reference one of my marines. When i use the 1mm plasticard i stick squares into the spaces and then clip and file them down. When clipping at angles i found sometimes it would break off evenly leaving my legs with gaps where the styrene broke in the leg.

One other thing i started doing was use the plastic cement on the spacers i use. I used to use standard superglue which holds fine when working with the spacers, but sometimes i would be left with gaps between the white plastic and the grey GW plastic. I found switching to cement filled those gaps and when i started filing and shaving the plasticard down the joint would be completely fused the entire way.

It takes longer to begin work, sometimes an hour, but it gives me time to glue plasticard into all the other recesses and joints that i use as well.

I bring this up because the second picture the leg under the knife has a small gap. Green stuffing would be sufficient but I'm not as good with it as i am with carving and filing.

i noticed to carved up the torso a bunch too. I've always wanted to 'heighten' the chest out but have only succeeded at making it puff out a bit more than usual.

Here's a WIP you can see a lot of work on.

gallery_31335_1757_19522.jpg

Edited by Dan The Deamon
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Wow

 

I like him. i noticed the bent leg looks like the kneeling one. however there is a gap between the two segments. did you make it out of some others? The Bezerker leg is a great fit, after some shaving of course.

 

It is from the kneeling set. After looking at how the 'zerk let would have to go in, I decided to take my jeweler's saw to the bent leg to separate the segments. This will let me come back with putty and work in the knee a bit more, and lets me sharpen up the divide between the two plates of armour. I feel that in the original cast, the joint is sort of "mushed".

 

one thing i had to learn the hard way was when sawing the legs in half to insert spacers always go completely flat. The only example i can give you is the bezerker thigh it goes parallel to the base, where i find it easier to go parallel with the knee joint if you will. If i stink at explaining just reference one of my marines. When i use the 1mm plasticard i stick squares into the spaces and then clip and file them down. When clipping at angles i found sometimes it would break off evenly leaving my legs with gaps where the styrene broke in the leg.

 

One other thing i started doing was use the plastic cement on the spacers i use. I used to use standard superglue which holds fine when working with the spacers, but sometimes i would be left with gaps between the white plastic and the grey GW plastic. I found switching to cement filled those gaps and when i started filing and shaving the plasticard down the joint would be completely fused the entire way.

It takes longer to begin work, sometimes an hour, but it gives me time to glue plasticard into all the other recesses and joints that i use as well.

 

I bring this up because the second picture the leg under the knife has a small gap. Green stuffing would be sufficient but I'm not as good with it as i am with carving and filing.

 

...argh, I didn't see that gap until you pointed it out. No matter, there's a lot of putty work yet to do. ;)

 

As for the other tips, though: Yes, 100%. I've learned a lot of those the hard way myself, too. I've still not found a good way to get a perfectly level saw cut, unfortunately. I think I need a bench vise. What I've been doing is just sawing as best I can, then taking a file or sanding block to it to try to get a level bonding surface. Since I'm using two layers of 0.5mm, I usually cement each half of the limb to one bit of card, let that cure, then come back and glue them together. And you're definitely right - I've only recently switched to plastic cement instead of superglue, but it's far superior.

 

I've used some wacky cut angles to be sure. Most often that's to preserve some detail, or to avoid some shape that I don't want to file. I've decided through experimentation that the obvious "easy" spot to add your spacer - the top of the thigh - is a red herring. It's all but impossible to get that to blend properly into the thigh, IME. I've also been pecking at applying these techniques to metal models, btw.

 

i noticed to carved up the torso a bunch too. I've always wanted to 'heighten' the chest out but have only succeeded at making it puff out a bit more than usual.

 

Aye, I've been hacking at several ways to lengthen the lower torso. I've been seperating chest and belly, and only recently got a jeweler's saw, which makes it possible to do so tidily enough that they can be reassembled! I initially meant to simply sneak a 1mm spacer onto the lower torso on De Lisle, then press the chest down back into place and file it all to perfection. However, I felt that the power cables would be too much of a pain to replicate either with putty or card, so I carved that away and drilled locator holes in the belt and chest for guitar-string replacements. I've been pecking at several ways to lengthen the torso a little - ideally with the chest seperated and deepened, while the belt remains standard depth. I think this would both make the chest more imposing and make the marine look more agile. So far, I've had mixed results, but I'd be glad to compare notes. :devil:

 

I have one in line for the Simple Green bath who actually has a torso I'm moderately pleased with. I, unfortunately, eyeballed the spacing, and I think his torso may be a little overlong.

 

Oh, out of curiousity, where are you putting your heads? In my photo above, I have the head tacked to the back half of the torso - that is, nestled in the original mold's socket, or the back half of it. My gut says that'll emphasize the bulk of the marine, but I'm beginning to think it may be a little impractical; De Lisle's head probably ought to be centered, especially if I swap arms for an aiming pose.

Edited by AdeptusDavidus
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