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Hey everyone I'm in the hobby for quite a while now (I started 2009) and really liked the moddeling aspect of it so i wanted to show you a WIP of my latest project i know the pictures a littel bit to big, but it's my first time uploading so, please excuse me. About the Project: I want to do 5 Tzeentch-Termis, they are all WIP right now. i wanted them to interact with the environment (Base) so i chopped them up and reposed them. I wanted to use SM-Termis because the Scourged are rednegades and not part of a Traitor-Legion. With the first Terminator i also wanted to show, that tzeentch-marines can kick ass too, so i wanted him to look really mean http://www.post-per-email.de/T1-P1.jpg http://www.post-per-email.de/T1-P2.jpg http://www.post-per-email.de/T1-P3.jpghttp://www.post-per-email.de/T1-P4.jpg http://www.post-per-email.de/T1-P5.jpg http://www.post-per-email.de/T2-P1.jpg http://www.post-per-email.de/T5-P1.jpg http://www.post-per-email.de/T5-P2.jpg yea, that's it for today, let me know what you think.

The answer will be probably "it depends..", but I was wondering which kind of putty you would recommend for sculpting? So far I've used GS and standard miliput (as well as hardware store putty, but only for bases and such). I also mixed GS and miliput in various ratios. But since there seem to be so many options out there (procreate, bee's putty, brown stuff and what not...), I was wondering which one you like the best, especially for more fine work... Best regards, ranulf

http://i.imgur.com/diCjF4Y.jpg http://i.imgur.com/twaNIFr.jpg

Reference courtesy of Encyclopedia Britannica:

After a couple comments and requests, I had my wife help me do a little tutorial on how I get some of my Nurgly gribbly greenstuff results. This is not the "correct way" or the "only way" to work with greenstuff, but its how I do it. I hope you can see the pics well enough. OK...so STEP 1: You need some gear. We got our 2 part epoxy putty (Green stuff), 2x magnifiers (because once you hit 45 everything goes to hell..... quick. But, seriously....they are handy) Universal solvant in a blessed receptical, i.e. water in a glass/cup. Last but not least, something to sculpt with. What you see is a cheap sculpting set. You can find them online or at hobby or craft stores. PLUS and even cheaper set: toothpicks cut at various angles. I used toothpicks almost exclusively for a while before I got a decent tool set. And a piece of acrylic. (its hard to see) I think I bought a $1 acrylic frame at a Dollar store and took the 2 pieces for sculpting on. Greenstuff (GS) won't stick to it if its wet. Not pictured is a set of tentacle rollers. You can also use a comb. Just remember, water is your friend. If you don't want the epoxy to stick to it, wet it. Including your fingers. STEP 2: Mixing the stuff. An even amount of blue and yellow, wet fingers and ..SQueeeeesh. Keep on sqishing it together until you get a uniform green and wet your fingers if it gets too sticky. Some folks like to use gloves, I like to be able to feel it. A small sausage on the tentacle roller. Since I'm not trying to make a uniform tentacle or power cord, I'm rolling it with my finger. A fine hair comb works just as good. Just remember the water. I roll it out to get some texture from the tentacle maker. Sometimes I just roll out a smooth sausage and twist it for the same effect. Then I roll up the tentacle sausage and I'm ready to slap it on the model. STEP 3: The sculpting begins...... I put my swirled sausage on there and pull down some anchor points to fix it in place on the model. At this point I'm kind of planning out in my head what I might want to do and where I want the "weight" of this application to be. I like to work in layers/pieces. Firstly, it keeps me from doing too much at once and ruining it with an errant fingerprint. It is also great to mix the epoxy in small batches. You can always mix more for this kind of detailing, rather than having a whole bunch left over. IF you DO have left overs, its always great to make thin sausages or roll them on a tentacle maker then hang them to dry. They can come in handy later, You can cut the thin rolls for rivets or bolts. Even rolling them into round balls can be useful later. A small container or sandwich bag is a great place to store these once they are dry. STEP:4 Details. Its all in the details. Showing how the toothpick works almost as good as the purpose built tools (if not better for some applications) I use the WET toothpick to round out some sections. Growing up on a farm and hunting,etc I have a pretty intimate knowledge of gross things and the innards of critters so I just round out things that look swollen or "intestinal" to me. References are SO easy to get these days thanks to thing like google. Go to google - images and search "intestines" and such. Also look over the new GW sculpts for Nurgly stuff, great inspiration there too. There are a great many folk that seem to slap GS on a model poke it a few times and call it Nurgly, but a few minutes doing reference search can really add a little "realism" to make it more convincing. Then I go into my bumpy rounded out areas and decide where I might want swollen pustules. You can carefully nudge out round shapes with the point of the tool, then smooth out the "pokey" looking parts. Not to pun, but its a very organic process. You want it to look natural, not like a bunch of poked GS. STEP 5: Pox I'm not sure where I found these things, but they are part of a syringe set (pictured above) But, the thing makes a nice round bulb. You can get brass tubes that can work for this, but the walls tend to be thicker. These make nice round spots. In the bottom two, I show how I push it in then pull out a drooping blob or the like. Great for yawning maw kind of thing. You can get a similar effect (without the round bulb) with a flattened toothpick of round edged tool by gently pulling down. STEP 6: I'm not sure what you call it, but it looks kinda cool These little bitz look a little tyranid like sometimes, but work on the deamonic and nurgly. When painting they look cool bleeding. ;) On a round roll, you take the side of a wet tool and make a slight trench. Then with the tip, poke a line of holes in there. I added a couple puss bulbs around it to kind of mesh in the edges. STEP 7: The last little bits I poked a few holes. The idea (and common on the GW sculpts) is a wound or broken spot int eh flesh. Gently, stick a pokey tool into the GS. You can go with a little hole, you can pull it a couple ways to make it look torn or gently draw out a shape. The last bit is doing a little circle. I do it first with small spots holes them connect them and smooth out the sides, to get that nice big pustule. The one note I would stress from what I've experienced is that with this kind of sculpting (as opposed to fire or fur, is to procede cautiously, carefully and with a wet/moist tool. You can always blow the water off, but it sucks when the stuff sticks to your tool after making the perfect round pustule or if you are sculpting a chin or the like. It this case its always easier to dig deeper or take more GS off than to put it back on. OH... and a wet finger is a great way to smooth GS edges or over places you might be filling. STEP 8: The results This is what I ended up with. I'll be adding more sections after this one dries. Eventually this whole thing will be much more Nurgly. One take away for large sculpting projects. : Don't try to do it all at once. Do it in sections. Do one, let it cure. then the next. I hope this little tutorial has been of some use to you.