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Well thought I might as well start a seperate one for my Nurgle daemons as slowly starting to expand more on them with how pretty bad my death guard are slowly starting on just using them as allied units but working on building a seperate daemons force so far just Rotigus and a couple of beasts but looking to add plague bearers drones and a few other Nurgle units

Since I have participated in and completed my Call to Arms pledges, I've really taken a liking to the WIP subforum. As I've finished with my Chaos pledges, I've decided to finally tackle the Kroot Fatstalkers I got last year. This is a continuation of the Kroot that I first started… 14ish years ago. I painted this guy right out of high school, alongside his 15 kin that came in the Carnivore set. Teenage me did not realize that unthinned Testors model car paint was NOT the paint for 40k minis. Then came BSF, in which Dayhek Grekh was 50% of why I bought the game After Grekh was done and I started developing an interest in Kill Team (pre-Farstalkers) I decided to strip half the Carnivores, get some Kroothounds and Krootox, and paint them in the same style Since I didn’t start basing until like a year ago, I think this group still count as WIP

Since I have a WIP thread, may as well have a HoH thread for completed stuff Kroot are fun to paint

I recently started experimenting with oils, opting to smear a magenta/purple oil wash on my Great unclean one (on the tentacles, stomach and guts) with rather good results, if I do say so myself: So, yeah, oil washes are good, if you want to use them, but what if you don't? Well, have no fear, I still have some tips for you! There's a little oil wash on the back here, but much of the purple/magenta is actually done only with thinned acrylics and some washes and contrasts. AND, it was surprisingly easy, as I basically just splattered it on semi-randomly and let it dry, not caring if it dried slightly blotchy (in this case that was just a bonus, as it would look gross. On a less nurgley model, I would thin with contrast medium rather than water, to avoid splotchiness and keep the effect more subtle). My GUO did take a while to paint, but if you like it, I have some very good news for you: it didn't take very long and I didn't really do anything difficult or use any strange products or chemicals. Apart from the newly added effects, everything was done with a couple of brushes (some big cheap ones and my regular model brushes), regular GW acrylics, a couple of shades and contrasts, some sand and some Nurgle's rot for the base. I didn't do any fancy techniques like wetblending or the like either - in fact, many areas aren't really shaded or highlighted at all, if you look closely and I purposefully didn't even pick out all the little details (for artistic and laziness reasons). Here's how he looked before the oils (regrettably he's upside down, but I was living in a no-gravity environment at the time...) Assuming you like the result, I think the big thing to take away from my GUO is that painting models that are almost all skin/flesh doesn't need to be difficult at all, as long as you avoid the biggest pitfall of all: having all the skin be the same base colour, highlight and shade colour, because no matter how well you do it, it can easily come off as a bit boring and "plastic toy" looking. As far as I'm concerned, the only real key to making a big figure like this look good is to have different colours mixed in here and there, so the overall result is varied - it will look much more "natural", even if you're not a master of placing shadows and highlights, simply because real skin is not the same colour everywhere on your body (well, I assume not, I can only speak for myself, of course...). We don't get the same problem with smaller minis, simply because they're smaller, so the skin being the same colour everywhere isn't as noticeable. Here's another example: Incidentally, we see the same thing with terrain, where painting it like you would a regular miniature sometimes ends up looking worse than doing something much simpler that just looks better at that scale. But more about that in another post And to finish off, a couple of shots of some poxwalkers I'm experimenting on. One has had an all-over wash of the same purple/magenta wash taht I used on the GUO, another has had a more targeted application and the last one hasn't had any at all. As you can see, oil washes seem to have a lot of potential for painting skin and gross features, but it's not really a necessity at all, as long as you're not too afraid of putting different colours into the skin areas.

I needed a break from Scions and with the announcement of more Primaris coming down the pipe I figured I'd hold off on painting more power armour. I wanted something I could finish quickly because I don't want to get bogged down. A 1-2 day palette cleanser as it were. I've had some Nurgle kits about since Dark Imperium came out as I thought it might be fun to supplement the Death Guard in there. This has to be the most satisfying unit I've painted in such a swift time. I assembled it and primed it yesterday and got the unit painted up today. No portions required more than three steps to do and a lot of the smaller steps that aren't on all the models I managed to keep down to two steps. The details are crisp enough that it's pretty easy not to stray onto areas you don't want painted. White Primer Spray Gryph-Charger Grey Contrast Paint Athonian Camoshade wash Light Drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh Those three steps take care of a huge portion of the model. Any sloppiness is easy to paint over or can be worked into blending up colours. Pallid Wych Flesh on the toe nails, horns, exposed bone, and teeth - The horns kind of get an edge highlight and kind of get a blend; I did it by eye. Corax White on the eyes Nuln Oil or Purple recess wash around tummy teeth. Mechrite Red on the tongues and guts (followed by Baal Red wash and Evil Sunz Red hightlight between other steps) Mechanicus Standard Grey on the swords Heavy Drybrush Administratum Grey http://i.imgur.com/tVynU8gm.jpg Only a single highlight step for the guts and that's not really an edge hightlight. Champion The head bundle was done by heavily diluting a light green paint and putting it on the heads and once it was dry hitting the entire bundle with Guilliaman Flesh contrast paint. Guts and Gut Nurgling Here's an example of the Mechrite Red - Baal Red Wash - Evil Sunz Highlight on the guts. The gut nurgling was Warpstone Green and a Thraka Green wash. I've definitely caught the bug - pun intended and wallowed in like a filthy nurgling - and I look forward to doing another unit after my next Scion unit.

One of my favorite threads I've ever read on the B&C, and one of the main reasons I got into the hobby was @Kierdale's thread for his psychopomps. I've similarly enjoyed @WarriorFish's Sundered and what I've seen of @Tallarn Commander's Warpborn. I'm also looking forward to reading about @Slave to Darkness's Khornate Word Bearers warband. I like reading about you guys' custom warbands and I'm going to channel that energy into my own hobby blog. The warband is still a WIP. I have yet to settle on a name that I really enjoy. But I do have some solid themes I want to incorporate and a paint scheme. I mocked up this digital test model with the app impcat. I think I am partial to the one with the black boots. I've also done up a test shoulder pad to see how the colors actually look in real life. I used the new Mantis Warrior Green contrast paint and then a conventional blue black for the trim. I'm going to have to come up with a method for touching up the green, otherwise I'm going to take some years off my life stressing out about painting so much black trim next to my beautiful, bright acid green. I'm choosing a leviathan's cross for the symbol for a couple of reasons. It invokes imagery of the occult It is connected to alchemy where it is a symbol for brimstone (sulfur) It looks cool Its simple enough to freehand that I don't need to mess around with transfers.